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Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern

Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a plush Pink Rascal-inspired amigurumi using plush chenille and cotton yarns for neat, sturdy details. It includes step-by-step rounds for arms, legs, boots, bracelets, tail and the body with photo guidance. The pattern is designed to be crocheted mostly in spiral and includes tips for shifting the beginning of rounds for a tidy finish.

Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will learn how to crochet small details like fingers and bracelets, and how to assemble them cleanly. The design is adaptable—use different yarns or hook sizes to change size and texture.

Why You'll Love This Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends plush textures with classic amigurumi shaping to create a cuddly, characterful toy. I enjoy designing clear step-by-step rounds and photographed techniques so you can see every important detail. The way the arms, gloves and bracelets are constructed makes assembly satisfying and the finished toy very expressive. I find the pattern rewarding because it challenges your skills while remaining fun and approachable.

Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to change the character by swapping yarn colors: try pastel shades for a softer look or bold colors for a poppy, playful result.

I often change yarn weight and hook size to create different sizes — bulky yarn makes a cuddly large plush, while thinner yarn with a smaller hook makes a cute mini keychain version.

I recommend swapping the mustard bracelet color for metallic or sparkly yarn if you want a glamorous accent.

Try embroidering different expressions on the face to change personality — a small curved mouth or a surprised O can totally alter the look.

I sometimes add wire in the limbs for posability; insert a thin wire armature before final stuffing and close the seam securely.

For a safer toy for small children, embroider the pupils and nose with cotton yarn instead of using safety eyes.

You can make outfits by crocheting removable dresses or scarves that slip over the body — this is a fun way to create seasonal versions.

Change the texture by using anti-pilling plush yarn or short-pile chenille to get a different finish on the hair and body parts.

I like to add small crocheted props (like a tiny cupcake or heart) to make the amigurumi more giftable and themed for special occasions.

Experiment with slight pattern repeats (add or remove one increase pair) to fine-tune proportions to your taste and make each Rascal uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not using stitch markers during spiral rounds can make the beginning of rounds confusing; use a stitch marker and shift it as instructed to keep your rounds aligned. ✗ Forgetting to stuff gradually causes lumpy or misshapen limbs and body sections; stuff a little at a time while shaping to maintain smooth contours. ✗ Cutting the working thread too early while joining details will make assembly difficult; leave long ends where instructed to sew parts securely and hide ends inside the piece. ✗ Skipping stitch counts during increases or decreases leads to incorrect shaping; count after every round and mark key points to avoid mistakes.

Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own Pink Rascal plush with a detailed, photo-rich crochet pattern designed for intermediate crocheters. You will work with plush chenille yarn and standard cotton yarn to create a soft, poseable toy with charming details like gloves, boots, bracelets and a tail. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, color and material recommendations, and assembly notes so you can follow along with confidence.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Pink Rascal Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Plush chenille yarn (Himalaya Dolphin Baby / YarnArt Dolce) 120 m/100 g (131 yds/3.5 oz) - main shade pink: 2 - 2.5 skeins
  • 02
    Cotton / semi-cotton yarn (~330 m/100 g / 361 yds/100 g) for details (YarnArt Jeans, Alize Cotton Gold, Gazzal Jeans) - small amounts for pupils, nose and embroideries
  • 03
    Color list from pattern: HDB 80301 (ivory/white), HDB 80333 (cream), HDB 80309 (pink), HDB 80330 (mustard/golden), YA Dolce 782 (gray), HDB 80318 (red)
  • 04
    Use matching cotton thread to sew plush yarn details for neater seams (optional)
  • 05
    Polyester stuffing (fiber filling) for limbs and body

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.5 mm
  • 02
    Optional crochet hook size 2.5 mm (used if working with thinner chenille for a smaller result)
  • 03
    Long needle for tightening (for plush yarn ~12 cm)
  • 04
    Nylon thread for tightening or any strong light thread
  • 05
    Needles for sewing body parts (yarn needle or tapestry needle)
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Pins with large head
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Fiber filling (polyester stuffing)

Progress Tracker

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— Abbreviations :

Info :

MR - magic ring; CH - chain; SS - slip stitch; St(s) - stitch(es); Rd(s) - round(s); SC - single crochet; HDC - half double crochet; DC - double crochet; INC - increase (work 2 DC in the same St); DEC - decrease (2 SC together through the front loops); BLO - back loops only; FLO - front loops only; (SC, INC)*6 (18) - repeat the combination in brackets 6 times, the number in brackets is the total number of St in a round.

— About shifting of the beginning of the round :

Info :

In this crochet pattern we will shift the stitch marker so that my pattern coincides with yours. Next, I explain why the beginning of the round may shift in different ways or not shift at all. The beginning of the round shifts to the right (for a right-handed person) as you crochet, or doesn't shift at all, which depends on your crocheting technique (the method and strength of the thread tension, the position of the thread relative to the canvas).

— Arms :

Info :

*make 2 details. *stuff only the palms.

Item Name (Thumb) :

*white yarn. *don't stuff.

Round 1 :

6 SC in MR (6)

Round 2-5 :

4 rounds of 6 SC (6)

Info :

work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 3 SC. fix and cut the thread.

— All other fingers (except the thumb) :

Info :

*white yarn. *make 4 details. *don't stuff.

Round 1 :

6 SC in MR (6)

Round 2-6 :

5 rounds of 6 SC (6)

Info :

fix and cut the thread in 3 details. when crocheting the last 4th detail, do NOT cut the thread and begin to join all 4 fingers.

Round 7 :

3 SC on the 1st finger, 3 SC on the 2nd finger, 3 SC on the 3rd finger, 6 SC on the 4th finger, 3 SC on the 3rd finger, 3 SC on the 2nd finger, 3 SC on the 1st finger (24)

Round 8-12 :

5 rounds of 24 SC (24)

Info :

in Rd 13 we attach the thumb. to make sure that the finger is exactly in its place, fold the detail in half along all the fingers and shift the stitch marker to the next SC from the fold line (see page 9).

Round 13 :

left arm: SC, 3 SC with the thumb, 20 SC (24); right arm: 8 SC, 3 SC with the thumb, 13 SC (24)

Round 14 :

(10 SC, DEC)*2 (22)

Round 15 :

(9 SC, DEC)*2 (20)

Round 16 :

(3 SC, DEC)*4 (16)

Round 17 :

(2 SC, DEC)*4 (12)

Info :

change thread color to ivory, fix and cut the white thread.

Round 18 :

(4 SC, DEC)*2 (10)

Round 19 :

(3 SC, DEC)*2 (8)

Round 20 :

(2 SC, DEC)*2 (6)

Info :

stuff only the palm so that it stays flat.

Round 21-30 :

10 rounds of 6 SC (6)

Info :

(if needed) work several additional SCs so that the 1st finger was in one line with the fold line, when folded.

Info :

work a CH, fold in half and crochet the sides together with 3 SC. fasten off.

— Bracelets :

Info :

*mustard-colored yarn. *make 2 details. *DON'T stuff.

Round 0 :

Chain 8

Info :

lock (join) the chain with SS. work a CH, work the first Rd in a spiral along the chain.

Round 1 :

8 SC (8)

Round 2-22 :

21 rounds of 8 SC (8)

Info :

fasten off, and leave a long end to sew. carefully sew the edges in a circle, starting from the inside, moving to the outside.

Info :

put it on the arm and fix it with two stitches on two opposite sides of the arm so that the seam is on the opposite side from the thumb between Rds 15 and 16 of the arm.

— Tail :

Info :

*pink yarn. *make a turn and work a turning CH at the end of each row.

Round 0 :

Chain 3

Round 1 :

start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 2 SC (2)

Round 2-4 :

3 rows of 2 SC

Round 5 :

skip a St, SC (1)

Round 6-7 :

2 rows of SC

Info :

work a CH, turn the detail on its side and work the SS series on the side to the initial row. fasten off.

— Legs :

Info :

*make 2 details. *stuff in process. *start with gray yarn.

Round 0 :

Chain 12

Info :

work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS) as in all amigurumi toys (oval-shape detail).

Round 1 :

start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 10 SC, 5 SC into the last chain from the hook, on the other side: 9 SC, INC (26)

Round 2 :

INC, 10 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 10 SC, 2 INC (33)

Round 3 :

SC, INC, 11 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 3 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 11 SC, (SC, INC)*2 (40)

Round 4 :

2 SC, INC, 12 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 5 SC, 3 SC in 1 St, 12 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (47)

Info :

change thread color to red, don't cut the grey thread and leave it on the outside for further crocheting.

Round 5 :

BLO: 47 SC (47)

Round 6 :

16 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 5 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 20 SC (43)

Info :

DEC 3 SC in 1 St - work 3 SC together.

Round 7 :

15 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 3 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 19 SC (39)

Round 8 :

14 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 18 SC (35)

Round 9 :

12 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 16 SC (31)

Round 10 :

10 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 14 SC (27)

Round 11 :

8 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 12 SC (23)

Round 12 :

6 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 10 SC (19)

Round 13 :

4 SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, SC, DEC 3 SC in 1 St, 8 SC (15)

Info :

stuff the foot tightly keeping the square shape on the toe.

Info :

change thread color to pink, leave the red thread on the outside for further crocheting of the top of the boot.

Round 14 :

BLO: (3 SC, DEC)*3 (12)

Round 15 :

(2 SC, DEC)*3 (9)

Round 16 :

3 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC (7)

Info :

stuff the ankle well, then keep stuffing the leg in the process.

Round 17-30 :

14 rounds of 7 SC (7)

Info :

finish with a straight line.

— The upper edge of the boot :

Info :

return to the red thread. attach the thread to the loose front loop of Rd 13. (round numbering starts over again) work:

Round 1 :

FLO: 15 SC (15)

Round 2-4 :

3 rounds of 15 SC (15)

Info :

change thread color to white, fasten off the red thread.

Round 5 :

FLO: (4 SC, INC)*3 (18)

Round 6 :

(5 SC, INC)*3 (21)

Round 7 :

21 SC (21)

Info :

finish with a straight line. bring all the thread ends through the loops from the inside out to Rd 1 and hide them inside the leg.

— Front stripe on the boot :

Info :

*white yarn. *make 2 details. *leave a long thread at the beginning so that you can hide it inside the boot later.

Round 0 :

Chain 18

Round 1 :

start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 17 SC (17)

Info :

leave a long thread so that you can hide it inside the boot later. sew on with a thin cotton thread to match.

— Body :

Info :

*mark the points of joining on each leg between each other - from the side. *attach a white thread to the St, marked with a marker on the right leg, and work a chain series of 3 CH.

Info :

*next, begin crocheting Rd 31 of the body (continue numbering from the leg). *stitch marker is on the back. *stuff in process. *continue working from the chain along the left leg (where the stitch marker is).

Round 31 :

on the left leg: 7 SC, on the chain: 3 SC, on the right leg: 7 SC, on the chain: 3 SC (20)

Round 32 :

(SC, INC)*10 (30)

Round 33 :

30 SC (30)

Info :

in Rd 34 we are going to attach the tail. for accuracy of attachment mark 2 SC (place of attachement) in the middle on the back; the pattern of attachment (place of attachment) may differ, due to the different shifting of the beginning of the Rd, so double-check the area of attachment by markers.

Round 34 :

27 SC, 2 SC with the tail, SC (30)

Round 35 :

(8 SC, DEC)*3 (27)

Round 36 :

(7 SC, DEC)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

(6 SC, DEC)*3 (21)

Info :

change thread color to red, fasten off the white thread.

Round 38 :

(5 SC, DEC)*3 (18)

Round 39 :

BLO: 18 SC (18)

Round 40 :

18 SC (18)

Round 41 :

(5 SC, INC)*3 (21)

Round 42 :

21 SC (21)

Round 43 :

(6 SC, INC)*3 (24)

Round 44 :

24 SC (24)

Round 45 :

(6 SC, DEC)*3 (21)

Round 46 :

(5 SC, DEC)*3 (18)

Info :

in Rd 47 we are going to attach the arms; for accuracy of attachment mark 3 SC (place of attachement) at a distance of 6 SC in the front and on the back; the pattern of attachment (place of attachment) may differ, so double-check the area of attachment by markers; if needed, adjust (shift) the stitch marker.

Round 47 :

4 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 6 SC, 3 SC with the arm, 2 SC (18)

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the bracelets by sewing the ring to the arm and fix with two stitches so the seam sits on the opposite side from the thumb between rounds 15 and 16 of the arm.
  • Attach the thumb in round 13 by crocheting it together with the palm as instructed; make sure the thumb placement matches the fold line before securing.
  • Attach the tail in round 34: mark 2 SC in the middle on the back for the place of attachment and sew or crochet the tail into these two stitches.
  • Attach the arms in round 47: mark 3 SC places for each arm at a distance of 6 SC in the front and on the back, double-check placement with stitch markers, then sew or crochet the arms into place.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to track the beginning of each round and to mark attachment points for tail, arms and legs.
  • 💡Work in spirals for oval-shaped details (legs) without turning chains or slip stitches for a smooth result.
  • 💡Leave long thread ends where instructed so you can hide and secure them inside the piece during assembly.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and as you go to maintain the correct shape and to avoid lumps in small details like palms and feet.

This Pink Rascal amigurumi pattern is full of personality and plush texture, perfect for fans of cute collectible toys. The pattern uses both plush chenille and cotton yarn to create durable, soft details that stand out. Make one as a gift or a special keepsake—crocheting it is such a joyful process! 🧶🧸

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 36 cm / 14.2" tall when using the recommended plush yarn and 3.5 mm hook; using a thinner chenille and a 2.5 mm hook yields a smaller 26 cm / 10.2" version.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarns, but this will affect finished size and texture—adjust your hook size accordingly and expect some changes to stitch counts and final measurements.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of amigurumi techniques, working in spirals, increases and decreases, and sewing pieces together is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours across multiple sessions, depending on experience and how many details you add.