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3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern

3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern
4.0β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet stuffed 3D letters for the full alphabet using cotton yarn and simple shaping techniques. Each letter is constructed from front and back pieces plus a side piece, with clear instructions for joining and edging. You'll find step-by-step photos and charts to guide short rows, invisible decreases, and embellishment lines.

3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for decor, toys, and personalized gifts, the letters are fully customizable in color and thickness. Techniques include needle join, slip-stitch lines, and optional embroidery for accents.

Why You'll Love This 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it takes a classic craft and turns it into three-dimensional art that you can touch and arrange. I enjoy how the letters feel substantial and hold their shape when stuffed, making them perfect props or keepsakes. The included photos and charts make tricky techniques like invisible decreases and the needle join easy to learn and replicate. I also love that each letter can be customized in color and trim to match any room or event.

3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern step 1 - construction progress 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern step 2 - assembly progress 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern step 3 - details and accessories 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile these 3D letters are for customization β€” you can change colors to match nursery themes, holiday decor, or school colors.

Try using a sport or DK weight cotton for a slightly larger letter, or swap to fingering weight with a smaller hook to make minis for keychains.

I often add contrasting trim rows (a thin slip-stitch round) in a bright color to make each letter pop and give a professional edge.

For a softer, plush look try an acrylic or cotton blend yarn and increase the number of side-piece rounds for extra thickness and squish.

If you want to make letters freestanding, stitch a small weighted fabric pouch into the bottom before closing and add rice or poly pellets.

I sometimes embroider names or initials on the front face before joining to personalize gifts β€” a simple backstitch works beautifully.

Consider using felt backing patches where the letters will be handled a lot to protect from wear or for easier sewing onto blankets or banners.

To create wall art, insert a thin piece of stiff craft foam into the letter before closing to help it hold a flat side against the wall.

I also like to create a garland by crocheting small loops onto the top of each letter so you can string them together for parties or photoshoots.

Finally, experiment with metallic or variegated yarns for special occasion letters β€” they look stunning when trimmed with a neutral edge.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during spiral rounds can make it hard to find the beginning of the round; place a marker at the start of each round and move it up as you progress. βœ— Crocheting too loosely will allow the fiberfill to show through and distort the letter's shape; use a smaller hook or tighter tension to keep the stitches dense. βœ— Joining front and side pieces without marking corresponding corner stitches can lead to misaligned seams; mark matching outer corners and opposite stitches before you begin joining. βœ— Forgetting to embellish before joining makes it difficult to reach the inner gaps later; do all slip stitch or embroidered lines on the front piece prior to attaching the side piece.

3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern

Make your own plush 3D alphabet with this detailed crochet pattern. You will create thick, stuffed letters perfect for nursery decor, photo props, or personalized gifts. The pattern includes clear instructions for shaping, edging, and joining each letter, plus special techniques like invisible decreases and the needle join. Follow along with photos and charts to create a full set of colorful, dimensional letters.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for 3D-Letters - Full Alphabet Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton yarn in different colors
  • 02
    Name: CATANIA - Brand: Schachenmayr nomotta
  • 03
    Yardage: 136 yds (125 m) per skein
  • 04
    Weight: 50g (1.76 ounce) per skein
  • 05
    Yarn weight: Fingering / Sport
  • 06
    Fiber content: 100% Cotton
  • 07
    Texture: Plied, 5 ply (12 wpi)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (see Gauge)
  • 02
    Fiberfill / stuffing
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch marker

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Material :

Info :

Cotton yarn in different colors I used: Name CATANIA Brand Schachenmayr nomotta Yardage 136 yds. (125 m) Weight 50g (1.76 ounce) Yarn Weight Fingering /Sport Fiber Content 100% Cotton Texture Plied, 5 ply (12 wpi)

Info :

Hook size 2.5 mm (see Gauge, below). Fiberfill. Tapestry needle. Scissor. Stitch marker.

β€” Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is unimportant for this pattern, provided the pieces are crocheted sufficiently tightly that they will not gape visibly when stuffed. To test a swatch, crochet a few rounds and then push a piece of fiberfill behind it: If the stitches stretch too much and the fiberfill is clearly visible, reduce the hook size. If you cannot insert the hook into the previous stitches, reduce your tension or increase the hook size. My letters measures 7 Β½ ” (19 cm) tall. Of course final measurements will change with yarn or hook substitutions.

β€” Abbreviations :

Infos :

This pattern uses American Standard Abbreviations. rd round. row row. st(s) stitch(es). slst slip stitch. ch chain. sc single crochet. fsc foundation single crochet. hdc half double crochet. dc double crochet. dec decrease over 2 single crochet. sc3tog decrease over 3 single crochet. hdc-dec decrease over 2 half double crochet. inv-sc-dec invisible decrease over 2 single crochet. inv-sc3tog invisible decrease over 3 single crochet. inv-hdc-dec invisible decrease over 2 half double crochet. [...] work directions inside brackets into stitch as indicated. *...* crochet directions following * as many times as indicated. RS right side of the crochet piece. WS wrong (= left) side of the crochet piece. sk skip. yo yarn over. lp(s) loop(s). NJ needle join. FL(s) front loop(s). BL(s) back loop(s).

β€” Stitch Dictionary :

Info :

slst (slip stitch) = Insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull through both st and lp on hook. sc (single crochet) = Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook. fsc (foundation single crochet) = insert hook in indicated st, YO and pull through a loop, YO and pull through one loop on hook (the β€œchain”), YO and pull through 2 loops on hook (the β€œsc”). The following stitch is worked under the forward 2 loops of the stem of the previous stitch (into the β€œchain”). *Insert hook into the face of the β€œchain” and under the nub at the back of the β€œchain” (under two strands), YO and pull through a loop, YO and pull through one loop (the β€œchain”), YO and pull through 2 loops (the β€œsc”). Repeat from * for the length of foundation.

Info :

dec (decrease over 2 single crochet) = *Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp* crochet twice, yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook. sc3tog (decrease over 3 single crochet) = *Insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp* crochet 3 times, yo and pull through all 4 lps on hook. inv-sc-dec (invisible decrease over 2 single crochet) = (insert hook into FL/BL only of the indicated st) twice, yo, pull through both FL/BLs, yo, pull through both lps on hook. See "Special Crochet Techniques". inv-sc3tog (invisible decrease over 3 single crochet) = (insert hook into FL/BL only of the indicated st) twice, yo, pull through both FL/BLs, yo, pull through both lps on hook.

Info :

hdc (half double crochet) = Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. hdc-dec (decrease over 2 half double crochet) = *Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp* crochet twice, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook. inv-hdc-dec (invisible decrease over 2 half double crochet) = Yo, (insert hook into FL/BL only of the indicated st) twice, yo, pull through both FL/BLs, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook. dc (double crochet) = Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull through lp, (yo, pull through 2 lps) twice.

β€” Crochet Chart Symbols :

Info :

Chart symbols used: start, end, pull through a loop to FO st, needle join (NJ), work sts over ch or slst, direction of crochet (the color of the arrow has no meaning), slip stitch (slst), chain (ch), single crochet (sc), foundation single crochet (fsc), increase (work 2 single crochet in one stitch) [2 sc], increase (work 3 single crochet in one stitch) [3 sc], decrease over 2 single crochet (dec), invisible decrease over 2 single crochet (inv-sc-dec), decrease over 3 single crochet (sc3tog), invisible decrease over 3 single crochet (inv-sc3tog), half double crochet (hdc), increase (work 2 half double crochet in one stitch) [2 hdc], decrease over 2 half double crochet (hdc-dec), invisible decrease over 2 half double crochet (inv-hdc-dec), double crochet (dc), decrease over 2 double crochet (dc-dec).

β€” Special Crochet Techniques :

Info :

Needle Join (NJ): You will use this technique to join the last round of your side piece(s) (see fig. 1-5). If you use this technique you do not create a further β€œV”, which would happen if you join the round with a slst.

Info :

Needle Join steps (summary): Fig. 1: Fasten off and thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle. Fig. 2: Pull the yarn through under the "V" of the st after the next of the previous round and pull through. Fig. 3: ... pull through. Fig. 4: Insert the needle into the center of the last stitch at the end of the last round and ... Fig. 5: ... pull the yarn through to secure. In this manner you create a "V" for the skipped st.

Info :

Use the needle join (NJ) to join the line of slip stitches you used to embellish your letters (see figs. 6-11). Work slip stitches around the stitches of the indicated row/round. Join the last slst with the first slst as follows (needle join = NJ): Fasten off and thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle. Pull the yarn through under the "V" of the first slst, insert the needle into the center of the last slst and pull the yarn through to secure.

β€” Invisible Decreases :

Info :

For the letters "B", "Z" and the symbol "&" invisible decreases are used because this kind of decrease is less bulky and you almost don't see them. Figures 12-16 illustrate the procedure: identify FLs (front loops) and BLs (back loops) of previous row, insert hook front to back into FLs for inv-sc-dec, yo and pull through both FLs, yo and pull through both lps on hook.

Info :

If you crochet on the WS of the front piece or RS of the back piece you must insert the hook into the BLs only (see fig. 17) instead of FLs. Make sure all unworked loops lie on one side of the piece so RS and WS face the correct way when joined. Fig. 19 shows three possibilities for decreases: white arrow inv-sc-dec into FLs only, red arrow inv-sc-dec into BLs only, blue arrow normal decrease over 2 sc.

β€” Short Rows :

Info :

Short rows are used to shape the letters. You work a short row by (1) not ending the actual row so the last sts of the previous row are unworked or (2) by using chains and/or slip stitches. In the following row work over the chains and slip stitches of the previous row, meaning in the sts one row below. See figs. 20-32 for methods to work over a slst, over a ch, and over a ch at the end of a row.

β€” Embellish the Letters :

Info :

If you want embellish your letters with embroidery stitches. I used an embroidered back stitch or a crocheted slip stitch line. Back Stitch: Bring the needle up through the crochet piece, one stitch ahead of the starting point. Go down through the crochet piece one stitch behind, then out again one stitch ahead. Continue in this way (fig. 33).

Info :

Line of slip stitches: Bring the hook from front to back in any gap between two stitches, yo and pull through both gap and loop on hook. *bring the hook from front to back in next gap, yo and pull through both gap and loop on hook* repeat to the end. In this manner crochet slip stitches around (see fig. 34). Embellish the letters before joining the pieces.

β€” Instructions :

Info :

General: Most of the letters consist of three pieces: The front and the back piece which are equal and the side piece. The letters "A", "D", "O", "P", "Q" and "R" consist of four pieces: The front and the back piece which are equal and the inner and outer side piece. The letter "B" and the symbol "&" consist of five pieces: The front and the back piece which are equal, two inner and one outer side piece.

Info :

Use the written instructions and the crochet charts to work the single letters. Crochet all letters and symbols except for the letter "O" and "Q" in rows. Turn work after each row. Crochet the letter "O" and the oval of the letter "Q" in spiral rounds (do not turn, do not join). Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up each time you start a new round.

Info :

Work the side piece for each letter in spiral rounds (do not turn, do not join). Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move the marker up each time you start a new round. If you want to give more thickness to your letter(s), add some more rounds for the side piece as indicated.

β€” Preparation to Join the Pieces (Edging) :

Info :

For all letters and symbols except for the letter "O": Mark any outer corner of the front piece, mark the same outer corner of the back piece (see fig. 35 - arrows). For "O": Mark any stitch of the last round of the front piece. Mark the same stitch on the back piece. For all letters and symbols: Mark any stitch on one edge of the (inner/outer) side piece. Also mark the stitch on the other edge which is directly located opposite.

Info :

The figure 36 shows the WS of the side piece (I like the appearance of the WS and this WS is facing outside when I join the single pieces of the letters. But it's up to you if you want the RS or the WS facing outside by joining.) When you crochet in rounds the same stitches of the single rounds (e.g. the 10th st of rd 3 and the 10th st of rd 4) do not lie on top of each other but they are off-center (see fig. 36 – dotted line).

Info :

You can see in figure 36 that the stitch on the other edge which is directly located opposite to the marked stitch (pink marker) lies 2 stitches off-center to the left (see also fig. 37). This is only valid if you work 6 rounds for the side piece. If you add additional round (to give more thickness to your letter) you must check how many stitches lie off-center to the left so the stitches of the both edges are directly located opposite.

β€” Join Front and Side Piece (Edging) :

Info :

To join the side piece with the front and back pieces use the yarn color of the side piece. For all letters and symbols: Holding the WS of the front piece and the RS of the side piece together (I like to have the WS of the side piece outside facing). With front piece facing, begin to sc around the edge, crocheting through both pieces. Fasten on and work the first sc both through the marked outer corner (for "O": marked st) of the front piece and the marked st of the side piece (see fig. 39-41). Work 3 sc in each outer corner, work 1 sc in each other st and in each row of sc. Add some additional sts when you work in rows with hdc. Join the round with a NJ.

Info :

For some letters such as the letter "M" you have to crochet a sc3tog in some inner corners. The figures 42-46 show how to do this: Holding the WS of the front piece and the RS of the side piece together. sc around the edge up to the pointed corner. Work the sc3tog through the next 3 sts of the front piece (white arrows) but only through one st of the side piece (black arrow). That means insert hook once in the next 3 sts of the front piece and 3 times in the next st of the side piece.

β€” Join Back and Side Piece (Edging) :

Info :

For all letters and symbols except: Holding the RS of the back piece and the RS of the side pieces together (except for the letter "O" and "Q": Holding the WS of the back piece and the RS of the side pieces together.) With back piece facing, begin to sc around the edge, crocheting through both pieces. Fasten on and work the first sc through the marked outer corner (for "O": marked st) of the back piece and marked st of the side piece. Work 3 sc in each outer corner, work 1 sc in each other st and in each row. Add some additional sts when you work in rows with hdc (see figure for edging of each letter). Join the round with a NJ.

β€” Symbols in the Figures for Edging :

Info :

Symbols used in the figures for edging: 1, 2, ..., 10, ... = number of sc crocheting along the edge. V = crochet 3 sc in one st (outer corner). up-arrow = decrease over 3 sc (sc3tog): pick up 3 stitches of the front/back piece but only 1 stitch of the side piece to crochet this sc3tog (inner corner). double- caret = decrease over 2 sc (sc2tog): pick up 2 stitches of the front/back piece but only 1 stitch of the side piece to crochet this sc2tog (inner corner). 1 diagonal = crochet 1 sc in the inner corner.

β€” Instructions for the Letter "A" :

Info :

Despite being apparently made up of three strokes the "A" is worked all in one. Starting on the left stroke and at the start of the stroke on the right extending the first row of this stroke to make the cross bar, then catching in the end of the cross bar at the end of the right stroke. At the final end you only have to add the right little bar on the bottom of the left stroke and the left little bar on the bottom of the right stroke.

Info :

Front Piece: Use the yarn color for the front piece of the letter. Use the crochet chart on page 6.

Row 1 :

(RS) 11 ch, 1 sc in 6th ch from hook, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (6 sts) – see fig. 1

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 sc in 7th and 8th ch of row 1, 4 ch, turn work (8 sts) – see fig. 2 and 3

Row 3 :

sk 4 sts, 4 sc, 41 ch, turn work (4 sts)

Row 4 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 39 ch, 1 sc in next 4 sc of row 3, 1 sc in the last 4 sc of row 2 (work over the ch of row 3), 1 ch, turn work (48 sts) – see fig. 4

Row 5 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 6 :

[2 sc], 45 sc, 1 dec 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 7-9 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 10 :

[2 sc], 45 sc, 1 dec, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 11-12 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 13 :

44 sc, 3 ch, sk 3 sts, 1 slst, 1 ch, turn work (44 sts)

Row 14 :

1 sc in next 4 sts of row 12 (work over the slst and the 3 ch of row 13), 1 sc in next 2 sc - see fig. 5 ...

Info :

Now crochet the cross bar (row A-G).

Row A :

... 27 ch , sk 19 sts, 2 slst, turn work – see fig. 6 ...

Row B :

sk the 2 slst, 1 sc in next 8 ch, 1 ch, turn work (8 sts) – see fig. 7

Row C :

8 sc, 1 slst in next 2 sts of row 13, turn work (8 sts) – see fig. 8

Row D :

sk the 2 slst, 3 sc, [2 sc], 4 sc, 1 ch, turn work (9 sts)

Row E :

9 sc, 1 slst in next 2 sts of row 13, turn work (9 sts)

Row F :

sk the 2 slst, 9 sc, 1 ch, turn work (9 sts)

Row G :

4 sc, [2 sc], 4 sc, 1 slst in next 2 sts of row 13, turn work (10 sts)

Row G (cont) :

10 sc (10 sts)

Info :

Now crochet the right stroke.

Row 15 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 14 ch, work 7 sc sidewise in the row A-G and 1 sc in the gap of the ch in which you worked the last sc of row A (see fig. 10), 1 sc in next 19 ch, 1 sc in next 2 sc of row 14, 3 ch, sk 3 sts, 1 slst, 1 ch, turn work (44 sts)

Row 16 :

1 sc in next 4 sc of row 14 (work over the slst and the 3 ch of row 15), 44 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 17 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 18 :

1 dec, 45 sc, [2 sc], 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 19-21 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 22 :

1 dec, 45 sc, [2 sc], 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 23 :

48 sc, 1 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 24 :

48 sc, 4 ch, turn work (48 sts)

Row 25 :

4 ch, sk 4 sts, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn work (4 sts)

Row 26 :

4 sc, 1 sc in last 4 sc of row 24 (work over the ch), 1 ch, turn work (8 sts)

Row 26 (cont) :

sk 1 st, 1 slst, 6 sc (6 sts) Fasten off.

Info :

Now add the right little bar on the bottom of the left stroke. With WS facing, count 8 sts backwards from the edge and fasten on the yarn in this st.

Row 1 :

[1 ch, 1 sc], 3 sc, 4 hdc, 1 ch, turn work (8 sts)

Row 2 :

2 hdc, 6 sc, 1 ch, turn work (8 sts)

Assembly Instructions

  • Embellish the front pieces before joining: work slip stitch lines or backstitch embroidery around the indicated gaps and secure ends before assembly.
  • Join the front and side piece: Hold the WS of the front piece and the RS of the side piece together and single crochet through both pieces around the edge; work 3 sc in outer corners and join the round with a Needle Join (NJ).
  • Join the back and side piece: Hold the RS of the back piece and the RS of the side piece together and single crochet through both pieces around the edge; work 3 sc in outer corners and join with a NJ.
  • For inner corners (like the letter M), work sc3tog: pick up 3 sts from the front/back piece and only 1 stitch from the side piece to create a neat inner corner.
  • After joining front and side, stuff the letter through the gaps before closing the final edges, ensuring even filling and smooth shape.
  • Pin matching marked corners and opposite stitches before sewing to ensure seams and corners align correctly during final assembly.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of rounds in spiral work and to mark matching outer corners for joining pieces.
  • πŸ’‘Crochet the pieces tightly enough so fiberfill does not show through; reduce hook size or tighten tension if stuffing shows.
  • πŸ’‘Embellish your letters (slst or embroidery) before joining the pieces for best access and a neat finish.
  • πŸ’‘Join rounds with a needle join (NJ) rather than a slip stitch to avoid creating an extra "V" at the seam.

This full alphabet 3D letter pattern is specially designed to make beautiful, stuffed letters for nurseries, parties, and photo props. Choose bright cottons or soft pastels to match any decor and create a set to spell names or phrases. Pack up your yarn and make personalized gifts that lastβ€”happy stitching! 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The sample letters measure approximately 7 1/2 inches (19 cm) tall using the recommended yarn and 2.5 mm hook; actual size will vary with yarn and hook substitutions.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and density; adjust your hook and add or subtract side-piece rounds for the desired thickness.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and reading simple charts is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Making a single letter can take several hours; creating a full alphabet is a multi-day project and may take 12-15 hours or more depending on detail and experience.