Create a charming rustic sunflower lace table runner featuring raised sunflower motifs, layered petals, detailed leaves and open lace mesh. This pattern uses warm cream, mustard, olive and rich brown tones for a farmhouse look. The runner is built from modular motifs that are joined into an elegant elongated shape perfect for dining tables or sideboards. Detailed stitch-by-stitch rounds and assembly notes guide you through construction and finishing.
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— Materials & Gauge :
Info :
Gauge is not critical for this lace runner, but a consistent tension is essential to keep motifs uniform. Using worsted cotton with a 4.0mm hook will produce motifs of the size shown. Make a test sunflower center and one petal to verify scale.
— Sunflower Center (Make 4) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2 :
inc in each st around (12)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9 :
(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
Round 10 :
(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Round 11-14 :
1 sc in each st around (60)
Info :
These even rounds build a stable disk for petal attachment. If you prefer a slightly smaller center for fewer petals, stop increasing at Round 9 (54 sts) and adjust petal spacing to match.
Info :
Change to dark brown yarn at the end of Round 14 for the raised center spiral detail. Leave a 20cm tail for sewing to petals if you plan to sew centers over petals later.
Round 15 :
With brown, join with sl st to any st. ch1, 1 sc in same st and in next 11 sts (12 sc) then work 2 sc in each of next 12 sts to make a raised spiral base (36) - note: this round is worked as alternating short and double-width sections to create a slightly domed center; rearrange counts so final total is 60 (60)
Round 16 :
1 sc in each st around (60)
Round 17 :
(sc, puff) x 20 around to create a textured coil. For each puff: yarn over, insert hook, pull through, repeat yarn over insert 4 times total then yarn over and draw through all loops, ch1 to close puff. Work puff in every 3rd stitch to keep count (60)
Round 18 :
1 sl st in each st around to tidy the edge and flatten the center slightly (60)
Info :
If you want a slightly domed center, add a small amount of fiberfill inside the center before closing Round 18. Keep filling minimal to avoid distorting the petal join circumference.
— Sunflower Petal Unit (Make 4 sets of 12 petals each) :
Info :
Each sunflower uses 12 petals spaced evenly around a center of 60 sts (5 sts per petal placement). Petals are worked independently and sewn/tacked to the center, or crocheted directly onto a base round. The pattern below is for a single petal; repeat 12 times per sunflower and join to center at the final step.
Round 1 :
Attach mustard yarn to petal placement on the center or make a petal separately: ch 10, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next, 4 dc in next 3 chains (creating the bulk of the petal), 1 hdc in next, 1 sc in last (9 sts across foundation)
Round 2 :
Turn to work down the opposite side of foundation chain: 1 sc in first back loop at base, 1 hdc in next, 4 dc cluster across the 3 centre loops (work as 4 dc in same st for a fuller petal), 1 hdc, 1 sc; join to base with sl st. Repeat for each petal (9)
Round 3 :
BLO: 1 sc in each st around petal base to form a neat rim; this creates a small ridge that helps petals stand away from the runner base. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing if not working directly on center.
Round 4 :
Info: To create alternating inner and outer petals (the layered look), make a second round of slightly shorter petals to place behind the outer row. For inner petals, ch8 and make 3 dc across centre instead of 4; this creates depth.
Round 5 :
Attach inner petals in the gaps between outer petals by slip stitching through the base of the outer petals and chain space positions on the center disk. Repeat until all 12 inner and 12 outer petals are attached.
Round 6-10 :
Info: If crocheting petals directly to the center, after Round 14 of the center, ch3, sc into next 2 sts, work petal pattern across the base chain to anchor. Work around the entire disk repeating this petal anchor every 5th stitch to make 12 petals. Weave in tails securely after attaching all petals.
Round 11 :
Make small surface slip st ridges across the petal centers by working sister slip stitches: with contrast thread, insert hook into center of petal, yo pull through and sl st along the top of each petal to mimic the vein lines. Work 2-3 slip stitches per petal ridge to accent texture (no change in count)
Round 12 :
Info: Optional: To make the petals more sculpted, use front post hdc around the base of each petal (work FP-hdc into the sc row that borders the petal base) which forces petals to tilt slightly upward.
Round 13 :
After finishing and securing petals, bury all tails and flat-block each sunflower by gently steaming or wet-blocking to set flatness. Do not over-stretch the petals; maintain a slightly cupped shape.
— Alternate Raised Petal Cluster (Make 4 sets of 6 for layered variety) :
Round 1 :
ch 12, join with sl st to form a ring, ch3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring (12)
Round 2 :
(ch4, sl st in next dc) x 12 to create looped petal bases around the ring (12 loops)
Round 3 :
Work into each loop: (3 tr, ch1, 3 tr) in each loop to create a full petal, sl st to base to secure (12 fuller petals)
Round 4 :
Info: These clusters are taller and are intended to sit behind or between the flatter mustard petals. Use smaller hook (3.5mm) for these if you want them firmer and more dimensional.
Round 5 :
BLO 1 sc around the ring to tidy the underside and provide a flat sew-in surface for attaching to the medallion or mesh join.
Round 6 :
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Position these alternately with the main petals for natural-looking depth.
— Small Flower Motif (Make 10-12) :
Round 1 :
mr, ch3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to join (12)
Round 2 :
(ch4, sl st in next dc) x 12 to create loops for small petals (12 loops)
Round 3 :
Into each loop: sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc; sl st to base to close each petal (creates a 5 petal flower look broken into 12, but counts remain even)
Round 4 :
Info: These little filler flowers are worked in cream to integrate with the lace background. Use matching cream thread to minimize contrast if you want the sunflowers to remain the focal points.
Round 5 :
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Sew into the lace mesh at junction points to hide joins and add visual continuity.
— Leaf Motif (Make 18-22) :
Round 1 :
ch 14, in 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, then work along opposite side of chain: hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc; sl st to first sc (this mirrors the leaf shape) (approx 26 sts across leaf)
Round 2 :
BLO: 1 sc in each st around to create a rim and give the leaf a slightly cupped look (26)
Round 3 :
With a contrast strand in a darker green, surface embroider a midrib: using a tapestry needle and yarn, run 3-4 evenly spaced surface slip-stitch veins from base to tip. This uses no stitch counts but lightens bulk.
Round 4 :
Info: For larger leaves, ch18 and increase the number of center treble groupings. For smaller leaves, ch10 and reduce the treble count. Keep both sizes for visual interest in placement.
Round 5 :
Fasten off and block leaves flat. Pin vein lines gently to hold shape while drying.
Round 6-14 :
Info: If you prefer a raised ridge leaf like the sample, after blo rim, work 1 row of FP-hdc down the center running from base to tip; this draws the leaf up slightly and gives extra texture.
— Circular Lace Medallion (Make 3 or more for runner length) :
Round 1 :
mr, ch2, 12 hdc in mr, sl st to join (12)
Round 2 :
(1 hdc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 3 :
(2 hdc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 4 :
(3 hdc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 5 :
(4 hdc, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 6 :
(5 hdc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 7 :
(6 hdc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 8-10 :
1 hdc in each st around (48)
Round 11 :
Info: Work a decorative ring round now if desired — I used 1 round of contrast olive sc with picot accents to echo leaves and tie color into the medallion edge.
Round 12 :
(ch4, skip 2, sc) around to create a lace ring (48)
Round 13 :
Into each ch4 sp: (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc), sl st to next ch space to create outward arches. This creates sites for the lace mesh to interlock to other motifs (48 clusters)
Round 14 :
Info: Leave long tails from medallions for sewing, or plan to join medallions directly into the chain-lace join described next. Medallions create large flat fields in the runner and are spaced evenly with open lace between sunflowers.
— Lace Join Mesh (Work as long as needed to join motifs into runner) :
Round 1 :
Start with cream yarn: ch8, sl st to form a large chain loop base (this is the core of the chain-lace units), ch8 repeat and join to form a long chain of 6-8 loops depending on runner width and motif layout.
Round 2 :
At each loop: (sl st, ch5, sc) in the top of loop to create connecting picot arcs; continue connecting to medallion arches and small flower loops to create a net. This round is modular and will be repeated between motifs (maintain even spacing).
Round 3 :
Info: To keep the lace flat, work the mesh with a slightly smaller hook (3.5mm) for tighter chain loops and less sag. Pin across several motifs as you work to maintain consistent spacing and symmetry.
Round 4 :
Between medallions and sunflower edges: join with ch7 loops that are anchored into medallion ch2 spaces (sl st into medallion, ch7, sl st into next medallion space). Repeat across runner to make even long chains connecting major motifs.
Round 5 :
Into each chain-arc intersection, work 5 sc around chain to make small little discs. These create points to anchor small filler flowers and leaves and visually tie the mesh together (no change in global count — local counts only).
Round 6 :
Info: When joining sunflower petals to mesh, weave the petal bases into the adjacent chain loops using a combination of sl st and sc - crossing and tacking helps them read as part of the lace rather than isolated motifs.
Round 7 :
For sturdier joins between medallions and sunflowers, pick up the medallion outer arches with sc and on the sunflower base pick up the petal rim scs every 5th stitch; this creates a balanced join that holds when the runner is laid flat.
Round 8 :
Continue mesh repeats until runner center length is achieved. For the pictured runner, 3 medallions and 4 sunflower placements were used with mesh panels between, totaling approximately 22-28 mesh repeats depending on spacing (variable).
Round 9 :
Info: Always test-join a few motifs before committing to full assembly. If spacing looks too wide, add one extra chain loop between motifs; if too tight, reduce chain length by 2-3 chains.
Round 10 :
After joining major motifs, sew or crochet small filler flowers into any visible angular gaps using the Small Flower Motif and small leaves. This will create the dense, cohesive lace area visible in the sample runner.
Round 11-20 :
Info: The Lace Join Mesh is the longest, most variable section. Plan to make and test about 20-30 units for average runner length; this accounts for spacing variations caused by your tension and hook size. Record how many mesh units you used to replicate later.
— Edge Scallop Border :
Round 1 :
Once motifs and mesh are joined and lying flat, work a border around the outside edge: with cream yarn, sc evenly around the entire runner, placing 1 sc in each st or chain space. Maintain count by adding extra sc in corners or wide scallop areas to keep the border flat.
Round 2 :
(ch4, sl st in next sc) x around to form looped scallops. Space loops evenly so they sit nicely over petal tips and medallion arches (variable)
Round 3 :
Into each ch4 loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to make pronounced scallop shells; work a sc between each scallop into the base to stabilize the shell (variable)
Round 4 :
Info: If the scallops pull too tightly, adjust by spacing shells with an extra ch1 or ch2 between shells. If scallops are loose and flappy, replace ch spaces with scs to tighten the base.
Round 5 :
Finish with 1 sl st around and weave in all ends. Block the entire piece flat and pin scallops to shape until dry to get crisp edging.
— Final Assembly & Finishing Touches :
Round 1 :
Info: Lay out all motifs on a flat surface in the desired arrangement. For reference, the sample runner alternates medallion - sunflower - medallion - sunflower - medallion in a gentle oval elongated shape with filler flowers and leaves situated to balance gaps.
Round 2 :
Pin motifs in place, adjusting spacing to keep symmetry. Use rust-proof pins and a soft surface to avoid damaging the yarn during pinning and blocking.
Round 3 :
Sew central motifs first, using the long tails you left for this purpose; use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to join securely. When crocheting joins, slip-stitch and chain-join as described in Lace Join Mesh rounds to create a smoother look.
Round 4 :
Info: After joining the primary motifs, weave and stitch small flowers and leaves into place across the mesh. Add a few strategic slip-stitch tacks under petal edges to keep large petals from flipping up when the runner is handled.
Round 5 :
Lightly steam-block or wet-block the entire runner pinned to the desired measurements. Work out any waves by gently stretching between pins. Leave to dry completely before removing pins.
Round 6 :
Optional: For extra durability, lightly spray the underside with fabric stiffener or dilute craft glue and press flat. Test on scrap yarn first to ensure no discoloration.
Info :
Keep notes of motif counts and join methods so you can make matching placemats or another runner at the same scale later.
Finishing this Rustic Sunflower Lace Table Runner is a rewarding journey from individual motifs to a cohesive, vintage-inspired centerpiece. Each sunflower, leaf and lace join adds texture and warmth to any table. With patient blocking and tidy joins, your runner will look like a store-bought heirloom made by you. 🧶🌻 Enjoy the slow, meditative process — and be proud to display your handmade creation! ✨
