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Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern

Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a small blue demon dragon amigurumi with two-tone wings, curled dark horns, and tiny baby fangs. The main body is worked in a deep mid-blue, with a slightly darker blue for the wing interior and dark brown/charcoal horns. Noticeable features include big glossy black safety eyes, upright scalloped spikes running from the head down the tail, and a rounded seated pose with short, chunky limbs.

Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction uses standard amigurumi techniques (magic rings, even rounds, increases and invisible decreases), plus a few pieces crocheted flat for the wing membranes and small textured spikes sewn along the back. This pattern is friendly to intermediate makers and includes clear assembly and stuffing guidance.

Why You'll Love This Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern

I love how this little dragon balances charm and personality—those big glossy eyes and baby fangs make it equal parts sweet and mischievous. I enjoy the two-tone wings and the textured dorsal spikes which give the design a playful silhouette. The compact proportions and seated pose make it a satisfying project that finishes into a lovable desk companion.

Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved creating this pattern concept because the dragon has so many opportunities for personalization—nothing is fixed, and every maker can put their own spin on colors and accessories. The underlying structure is simple enough for someone who knows basic amigurumi, yet the details keep it interesting.

I recommend experimenting with different wing colors, adding a tiny scarf, or embroidering a heart on the belly to make it your own. If you want a larger dragon, swap to aran weight yarn and a larger hook; for a tiny desk buddy, use sport weight with a smaller hook.

I also like the option of adding a wire to the tail or arms for a poseable companion, or making the spikes longer for a more dramatic silhouette. Don't be afraid to tweak proportions— shortening the neck or legs slightly will give the dragon a different personality.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Placing safety eyes too low or too close together can alter the dragon's expression; measure and pin before locking eyes in place ✗ Sewing pieces without pinning can create asymmetry; pin and check placement before final stitching ✗ Cutting yarn tails too short when finishing can make invisible seams difficult; leave long tails for weaving and secure knots ✗ Using a hook that is too large will show stuffing through stitches; choose a slightly smaller hook for dense amigurumi fabric ✗ Skipping Info sections like color-change notes leads to unexpected stripe lines; follow color-change tips to keep edges neat

Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern

Bring this tiny, lovable blue demon dragon to life with a cozy, detailed amigurumi pattern. Features include expressive black safety eyes, tiny white baby fangs, curled dark horns, scalloped dorsal spikes and two-tone wings with a purple interior. The finished dragon sits upright with rounded limbs and a friendly, slightly mischievous face—perfect as a desk companion or a handmade gift.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Small Blue Demon Dragon with Baby Fangs Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120g in mid-blue (main body color)
  • 02
    50-60g in darker blue/purple for wing interior and tail spikes
  • 03
    30-40g in dark charcoal/brown for horns
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g) in white (fangs) and black (for embroidered nostrils if desired)
  • 05
    Optional small amount of light blue or slate for subtle shading highlights

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (or adjust to get tight fabric)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for small details and tighter features (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12mm black (use 10mm if you prefer smaller eyes) with washers
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (approx. 50-80g total)
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing parts and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and placement
  • 09
    Optional: Thin floral wire or pipe cleaners for poseable limbs or tail
  • 10
    Optional: Fabric glue for extra security on small pieces

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 13-14, approximately 12-14 stitches apart (eye center spacing ~10-12mm depending on eye size). Pin and check expression; eyes are best positioned slightly above the midline for a cute look

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (48) - build forehead and face height (keep an even tension to create smooth rows)

Info :

After round 14 check eye placement. Mark the center between eyes for nose placement. If adding embroidered nostrils, plan to embroider later after head is stuffed.

Round 17 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 19 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly but not rock-hard. Use small pieces of fiberfill to push into eye sockets and under the forehead for a rounded face. Stuff evenly as you decrease to keep a smooth shape.

Round 20 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

At this point the head is forming its lower curve. Continue stuffing progressively. If using safety eyes, ensure washers are secured before continuing. Add a little extra fiber at the cheeks to keep them full.

Round 23-28 :

1 sc in each st (12) — work even to create neck opening and a short neck tube (6 rounds)

Info :

This neck tube will be sewn into the body opening. Make sure the length here matches the body’s neck area so the head sits naturally. Keep the last few stitches unstuffed until you attach the head to the body to make sewing easier.

Round 29 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 30 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 2 sc (6)

Round 31 :

3 dec (3)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing head firmly before closing and attach head to body later. Add small plastic washers and secure safety eyes if not done earlier.

— Facial Details :

Info :

Embroider nostrils: use black yarn and a yarn needle to stitch two small horizontal 'C' shapes centered between the eyes just below round 14-15. For a subtle smile, weave a short line with the same yarn under the nose area. Place two small white fang pieces (see fangs section) at the lower edge of the muzzle and sew securely from inside the head.

— Neck Join & Head Spikes :

Info :

Sew head to body by aligning neck tube (rounds 23-28 on head) to the body opening. Pin evenly and use mattress or whip stitch to create a smooth seam. Add stuffing as you attach to prevent flattening.

Spike Piece (make 9-10) Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Spike Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Spike Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Spike Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (9)

Spike Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Fold base slightly and stitch the base closed to make a teardrop shape (makes small dorsal spike)

Info :

Sew spikes along the head center and down the tail, spacing them evenly. For the head, place spikes starting just behind the forehead (approx between rounds 11-13) and angle slightly backward.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36) — work even to establish torso width

Info :

If you prefer a slightly chubbier body, add one or two extra even rounds here before shaping. Use stitch marker to mark the front center of the body for correct head and limb placement.

Round 11 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 12 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14-16 :

1 sc in each st (18) — hip shaping and body length

Info :

Begin stuffing the body moderately from the bottom up. Keep stuffing medium-firm—firmer for the base so the dragon sits upright, softer near the neck for head attachment comfort.

Round 17 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24) — slight flare for hip/seat

Round 18-21 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (12) — this is the neck join opening; leave opening large enough to insert head neck tube

Info :

Do not fasten off here. With head neck tube still unstitched, pin head to body to check fit. Add or remove stuffing to get desired posture—more stuffing in base for upright sitting balance.

Round 25 :

1 sc in each st (12) — work even to stabilize opening

Round 26 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18) — small flare to make a smoother join edge if needed

Round 27-30 :

1 sc in each st (18) — finish body and prepare to attach legs and tail

Info :

When you attach limbs, sew through the body rounds 7-12 on each leg to keep the seated stance. Pin pieces before sewing to ensure symmetry.

— Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18) — form wrist/hand bulb

Info :

Stuff the hand firmly now for a rounded paw. Use small amounts of fill to keep the fingers short and plump. If you want a slightly longer arm, add more even rounds here.

Round 7 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 4 + 2 sc (14)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in each st (14) — lower arm length

Info :

Optional: Insert thin floral wire at round 10 before stuffing to make arms poseable. Bend wire ends and cover with a small bit of extra stuffing to avoid sharp edges.

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 + 2 sc (11)

Round 14-16 :

1 sc in each st (11)

Round 17 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 + 2 sc (8)

Round 18-20 :

1 sc in each st (8) — leave long tail for sewing to body

Info :

Stuff arms lightly—firmer stuffing can throw off balance. Sew arms to sides of the body around rounds 18-21 on the body; pin before sewing to achieve symmetrical placement.

— Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24) — shape round foot

Info :

Stuff foot firmly now to create a stable base for sitting. Use small sections of fiberfill pressed into toes and base for a rounded foot shape.

Round 8 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 9-14 :

1 sc in each st (18) — lower leg length

Round 15 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (15)

Round 16-18 :

1 sc in each st (15)

Round 19 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (10)

Round 20-24 :

1 sc in each st (10) — leave long tail for sewing at hip

Info :

Sew legs to bottom/front of body aligning with body rounds 1-4 for a stable seated pose. Use extra stitches across the seam for stability if the toy will be handled frequently.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-7 :

1 sc in each st (18) — tail base width

Round 8 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 4 + 2 sc (14)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Info :

Sew spikes onto tail by spacing the 'Spike Piece' shapes along the top of the tail before sewing the tail to the body. Pin them in place to check spacing and curvature. Add extra stuffing to the tail base for sturdiness and allow the tip to taper.

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 6 sc (12)

Round 14 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 3 sc (9)

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (9) — tapering; stuff tail moderately

Round 19 :

3 dec (3)

Round 20 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to body

— Horns (Make 2, dark color) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-4 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (9) — work even to build length

Round 10 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 2 + 1 sc (7)

Round 11 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2 + 1 sc (5)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (5) — leave long tail for sewing

Info :

Horns are slightly curved: when sewing, attach to head and angle them slightly inward and backward. You can insert a short length of wire to support curl but stitch carefully to conceal and secure wire ends.

— Ears/Small Side Fins (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (9)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 2 + 1 sc (7)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (7)

Round 6 :

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing; position on head sides around rounds 9-11 to mimic photo placement

Info :

Pin small fins slightly behind the eyes, and angle outward. These add the soft, frilled look at the side of the head.

— Wing Panels (Make 2 - inner purple panel) :

Round 1 :

Ch 10, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, turn to work on opposite side of chain, 1 sc in each ch back to first ch. Join to form oval (18)

Round 2 :

BLO 1 sc in each st around to make a subtle ridge (18)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 4 + 2 sc (22) — widen base for attachment

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (22)

Round 8 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 3 + 4 sc (19) — shape outer curve

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (19)

Round 10 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for joining to outer wing frame

Info :

Make a matching pair. These panels are the purple inner membranes visible in the photos. Pin them to the blue outer wing frames before sewing.

— Wing Frames (Make 2 - outer blue frame) :

Round 1 :

Ch 20, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (19), turn to work along opposite side of chain 1 sc in each ch back (19), sl st to join (38)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (38) — work in continuous oval shape to form outer ridge

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (38)

Round 4 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (38) — this creates a defined ridge for the wing curve

Round 5 :

Attach purple inner panel: with RS together, whip stitch inner panel to inner edge of frame starting from base and working toward tip, leave top edge unstitched slightly to create natural curve

Round 6 :

1 sc around outer edge of wing frame to create a finished border (approx 40 sc — adjust to match panel seam)

Round 7 :

Optional picot edge: *ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch* every 3-4 sts for decorative points along outer edge. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew wings to the upper back at body rounds 6-9. Angle them so the membrane faces slightly forward. Use a few stitches across the base to secure the panel so it will not flop downwards.

— Wing Ribs (Decorative Raised Ridges) :

Round 1 :

Using darker blue yarn, ch 1, work short rows of sc along wing membrane: sc 6, ch 1, turn and sl st back to anchor point. Make 3-4 ribs per wing spaced evenly from base to tip

Info :

Sew ribs along the inner membrane using small stitches, then block each wing flat with steam or light pressing (if yarn allows) to set the shape. The ribs will give the wing that sculpted look seen in the photo.

— Fangs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (4)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (3)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (3), fasten off leaving long tail to sew into muzzle (stitch fangs so points protrude from lower lip)

Info :

Sew fangs symmetrically under the mouth area; secure from inside the head with multiple passes to ensure they don’t pull out during play.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all loose ends through several stitches and hide tails inside the nearest stuffed area. Add a few safety stitches between head and body for extra durability. If you like, dab a tiny bit of blush on cheeks using fabric-safe pigment for extra cuteness.

Info :

Apply plastic safety washers behind eyes if not done earlier. If you used embroidery for eyes, use tight even satin stitch to avoid gaps. Give final shaping by pinching and re-stuffing small areas to perfect silhouette.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion (head rounds 23-28) into the body opening (body rounds 24-26). Pin in place first, then sew securely using a ladder stitch or whip stitch all around, ensuring even attachment and smooth seam.
  • Position arms on sides of body at body rounds 16-19 for a natural seated look. Pin both arms the same distance from the front center marker and sew with a mattress stitch through arm and body rounds for an invisible seam.
  • Attach legs to bottom front of body at body rounds 1-4. Space them evenly so the dragon sits balanced. Sew through both leg tops and body rounds using back-and-forth passes for stability.
  • Sew horns to top of head at approximately head rounds 9-11, angling them slightly back and inward. Use several passes on each horn base to secure firmly and hide ends inside the head.
  • Sew wings to upper back at body rounds 6-9. Pin the wings so they angle slightly forward and sew the base with strong stitches; tack the top edge lightly if you want the wings to stand partially upright.
  • Attach tail centrally at the lower back base (body round 2-4). Curve tail slightly and sew spikes along the top before final attachment so they align correctly. Stitch the base in a spiral to secure.
  • Sew small side fins/ears to head sides around head rounds 9-11, angling them outward. Use extra stitches at the base to keep them from flopping.
  • Add small fangs under the lower muzzle, and embroider nostrils and mouth using matching yarn. Anchor all small pieces by weaving long tails into the body and trimming close.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
  • 💡Keep a row counter or notepad to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections

This adorable dragon combines classic amigurumi techniques with charming, whimsical details—tiny fangs, expressive eyes, and sculpted wings—to create a truly special handmade friend. Each section comes together to form a cuddly, personality-filled creature you'll love displaying or gifting. 🧶 Add little custom colors or accessories to make it uniquely yours. Happy crocheting and enjoy the cozy crafting journey! ✨🐉

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished piece will measure approximately 9-11 inches (23-28 cm) tall in a seated position. Using different yarn weights or hook sizes will change the final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different yarn weights will change the final size and stiffness proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a glossy, professional look and are very secure, perfect for gifts. Embroidered eyes are ideal for very young children as they eliminate small parts and allow more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight, allowing the piece to maintain its shape while still being cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely! Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire before stuffing limbs completely. Bend wire to desired shape, ensuring ends are folded over safely, then continue stuffing around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also add accessories, change facial expressions, or adjust proportions slightly to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.