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Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern

Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern
4.1โ˜… Rating
3-5 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Afternoon Project

Takes 3-5 hours, perfect for an afternoon or evening of relaxing crochet.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a compact 'furious' devil dragon with crossed arms, slightly squat body, expressive half-lidded eyes and chunky horns. The main body is a rich red with deep purple horns and claws and a cream tummy patch. Wings are small with a darker inner membrane and a red outer edge, and the tail ends in three tiny purple spikes.

Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design focuses on personality: a round head with low brows, short stout limbs, and arms crossed in front for an attitude-packed pose. The pattern uses standard amigurumi construction with separate pieces sewn together for a neat finish.

Why You'll Love This Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because the personality comes through in every stitch โ€” that little scowl and crossed arms are irresistibly expressive. The compact size and bold contrast of red, cream and deep purple make it a joy to stitch and display. I also appreciate the clear modular construction that makes assembly fun and adjustable.

Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved drafting this pattern because the characterized posture โ€” crossed arms and a grumpy brow โ€” makes the dragon so memorable and fun to customize.

I like to switch things up by trying different color palettes: try charcoal grey for the horns and claws for a subtler contrast or swap the cream belly for pale blue for a cooler look. You can also change size by using a thicker yarn and a larger hook for a chunkier companion, or scale down with a finer yarn.

For personalization, add a tiny scarf, a metallic thread highlight around the wing edges, or embroider unique eyebrow shapes to change the mood from grumpy to mischievous. The modular construction makes these changes easy without reworking the whole pattern.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

โœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round โœ— Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project โœ— Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results โœ— Sewing facial pieces without pinning first may result in crooked eyes or misaligned brows; pin and check from multiple angles โœ— Failing to weave in tails securely when closing small openings can lead to gaps later; use a mattress or ladder stitch and weave tails several inches into the piece โœ— Using oversized safety eyes or placing them too close together will change the expression; follow the eye placement notes carefully for the intended look โœ— Ignoring row counts when shaping limbs can produce mismatched arms or legs; keep a small notepad or row counter near you

Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern

Create this small, grumpy devil dragon amigurumi with crossed arms, dramatic eyebrows, curled horns, tiny wings and a chubby belly. This pattern reproduces the sculpted head, folded arms, curled tail with spike toes, and contrasting cream belly for a compact, character-filled collectible. Works up in worsted-weight yarn to a palm-sized plush that's perfect for desks and gifts.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Small Furious Devil Dragon with Crossed Arms Amigurumi Pattern

โ€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120g in main color: red (body and head)
  • 02
    50-60g in accent color A: deep purple (horns, claws, wing membranes)
  • 03
    30-40g in accent color B: cream/off-white (belly patch and eye whites)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g) in detail colors: black (eye pupils, eyebrow line), darker red or burgundy for subtle shading if desired

โ€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for main work (or adjust to get tight gauge)
  • 02
    2.75mm (C) hook for smaller details (horns and claws) - optional
  • 03
    Safety eyes 8mm (or embroider eyes using black yarn if for child-safe toy)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and blocking pieces into place
  • 09
    Optional: Short lengths of floral wire for poseable arms (insert before final stuffing)
  • 10
    Optional: Fabric glue for securing small embroidered details

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

โ€” Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place eyes between rounds 12-13 with approximately 8-10 stitches between centers for the angry, narrowed look. If embroidering, mark placement now. Keep safety eyes slightly lower than centerline to keep brow area heavy.

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Work a small raised eyebrow ridge by leaving a 2-3 row area for embroidering a half-lidded look later. Use a scrap of black to chain-stitch a thick line across the top of the eyes after assembly.

Round 19 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly but not rock-hard. Add stuffing in small amounts and shape lightly with your fingers to create a rounded forehead and slightly flattened front where eyes will sit.

Round 21 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Check eye symmetry. If using safety eyes, lock them now and ensure they are firmly seated. If embroidering, use a needle to mark pupils and stitch before additional stuffing makes it difficult.

Round 24 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 26 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Info :

At this small stage the head is narrowing toward the neck โ€” add more stuffing if the top feels loose. For a stable neck seam, keep the last 2 rounds tidy and even.

Round 27 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 28 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 29 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body. If your design prefers the head closed then joined to the neck by crocheting through the body opening, leave the tail and use it to ladder stitch the pieces together.

โ€” Horns (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with purple (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Screw the horn cone shape by working in continuous spiral and stuffing lightly as you go so the horn is firm but not hard. The spiral helps create that ridged stacked look visible in the photos.

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 9 :

6 dec (4)

Info :

Leave a 6-8 cm tail for sewing. Arrange horns on top of the head symmetrically, angling slightly outward. Sew firmly through head center layers to secure.

โ€” Eye Appliques (Make 2 layered appliques) :

White Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

White Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

White Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

These white appliques create the exposed white of the eye on the inner side. Sew into place with a small overlap under the brow area so the black pupil piece can be nestled inside.

Pupil Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with black (6)

Pupil Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Info :

Sew black pupil onto white applique with the white slightly showing along the inner edge to reproduce the glare. Embroider a thin black ridge along top to form the droopy angry eyelid.

โ€” Eyebrow / Lid Embroidery :

Info :

Using black yarn and a yarn needle, couch or embroider a thick, slightly curved line above each eye to create the heavy brow. Use several back stitches to make it chunky and glue a small dot of fabric glue under stitch ends for security if desired.

โ€” Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

If you want a subtly squashed, squat body like the sample, keep rounds 7-10 even and use firm stuffing later. For a taller body, add 2-4 more even rounds now.

Round 11 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 12-14 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

At round 12 you can begin the cream belly patch attachment later. Leave a long tail from the cream piece to sew the oval belly directly to the front of the body at the end of round 14-15.

Round 15 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 16 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Now begin stuffing body moderately โ€” aim for a firm but squeezable core. For the crossed-arm pose the body should be compact and slightly weighted at the bottom so the figure sits upright.

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 21 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Do not fasten off. Keep the body opening ready to sew the head into place. Check that the top of the body opening has enough stitches to match the neck opening (8 stitches). Use your needle to align with head tail and sew around for a neat join.

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (12) โ€” tidy round to create a short neck rise

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the head. Pin head to body and sew through both pieces, matching the 8-st neck of the head to the 12-st neck of the body by using mattress stitch and picking up extra stitches as needed for smooth joining.

โ€” Belly Patch (Cream) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with cream (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Center the oval on the front of the body between rounds 11-16 and sew along edge with mattress stitch for a flat, integrated look. Stuff slightly under the patch edge if you want a raised tummy.

โ€” Arms (Make 2, Crossed Pose) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-5 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

These first rounds form the rounded hand portion. For a full, bulbous hand that sits well across the chest, stuff firmly now. The arm will taper into a short tube for the forearm.

Round 6 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 7-12 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

For crossed arms, make one arm slightly shorter (1-2 rounds) so it sits on top when sewing. Optionally insert a short length of flexible wire centered down the length of the arm before final stuffing to pose the forearms crossing.

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Info :

Stuff the forearm lightly โ€” hands should be firmer, arms softer. Fold the hands together in a crossed position to determine the exact sewing placement on the chest. Pin in place before sewing.

Round 15 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (do not close). Sew the arms to the body centered at rounds 13-15 of the body; angle slightly inward so the arms rest naturally across the belly.

โ€” Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

These rounds form the foot and ankle. Stuff the foot area well to create a rounded, squat base that supports the figure. The leg is worked as a short tube above the foot.

Round 10 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11-16 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 17 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 18 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Leave a long tail for sewing. Sew each leg to bottom of body at rounds 1-3, spaced so the dragon sits steadily. Make the feet face slightly outward to match the sample's seated stance.

โ€” Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-6 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

We will taper the tail slowly to create the rounded chunky look. Stuff the base light to avoid a top-heavy tail that tips the figure.

Round 7 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 8-20 :

1 sc in each st (8) โ€” work even to desired tail length (approx 12 rounds for a short tail like the sample)

Info :

At the tip of the tail add three small purple spike toes (make 3 small bobbles) and sew them spaced along the top of the tail end. See Claw Rounds for spike construction.

Round 21 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew tail to back of body centered at last 3-4 rounds, angling slightly to one side for a natural curve.

โ€” Tiny Spikes / Toes (Make 6 small purple bumps: 3 for tail, 3 for toes) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with purple (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

Stuff lightly and flatten the base slightly. Fasten off leaving short tail and sew in clusters of three along top of tail and tips of feet as shown in the sample photo.

โ€” Wings (Make 2) :

Wing Base Round 1 :

With purple for membrane chain 10, turn and sc in 2nd chain from hook across (9)

Wing Base Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each st across, ch1 at end, rotate and sc along opposite chain side to create a flat oval โ€” 18 sc total (18)

Round 3 :

Switch to red yarn (Info below) and work 1 sc around edge to create outer wing edge (18)

Info :

Change to red here to create the outer edge. Work in BLO for one round on the red edge if you want a raised rim. Pin the wing into a slightly cupped shape and sew into place on the back/upper side of each shoulder.

Round 4 :

Ch3, (dc, ch2, dc) at 1/3 points to create scalloped finger shapes, sc between clusters (work 3 scallops) โ€” this sculpts little wing fingers (18)

Round 5 :

Slip stitch into base and fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Sew wings to body at rounds 8-10 slightly back from arms, angling up and out.

โ€” Claws/Toe Details (Optional) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with purple (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Info :

Make 6 small claws and sew three on top of each foot and three along tail tip. For a more stylized appearance, tighten the bobble by using slip stitches in the last round to create a pointed bump.

โ€” Finishing Face Details :

Info :

Use black yarn to embroider the small frown and nostrils. For the nose, stitch two short diagonal lines just above the mouth area. For the mouth, embroider a downward V with a small center stitch to create the grumpy expression.

Info :

Weave all tails through at least 6-8 stitches and clip close. Use a few reinforcing stitches at stressed joins (arms, legs, tail) to ensure longevity.

โ€” Optional Poseable Wire Guidance :

Info :

If you want poseable arms, insert a length of 20-gauge floral wire into each arm before stuffing and bend one end into a small loop and wrap with tape before finishing stuffing so the wire end won't poke through yarn. Test bend gently to shape crossed arms and sew arms firmly to chest around the loop area.

Info :

To make slight head tilt adjustments after assembly, you can add a disc of felt inside the neck seam to change angle before final sewing, or adjust stuffing position to bias a tiny lean.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by matching the head neck rounds (8) to the body's top neck rounds (12). Pin head centered, then sew with ladder stitch picking up extra rows on body to evenly distribute the 12-to-8 mismatch until seam is smooth.
  • Position arms on sides of body at body rounds 13-15 so the hands meet in front of the belly. Pin arms in the crossed position and sew through both arm bases and body with small, tight stitches to secure the crossed look.
  • Attach legs to bottom of body at rounds 1-3, spacing them evenly about 6-8 stitches apart at the front to allow a flat, stable sit. Sew through the foot base and body, adding extra reinforcement stitches for durability.
  • Pin horns symmetrically on top of the head around rounds 10-14; angle slightly outward. Sew through multiple head rounds to secure the base of each horn and reinforce with extra thread if needed.
  • Sew wings to back on body rounds 8-10 (slightly behind the arms). Position the wing seam in the center of the wing base and use whip stitches around the wing base to create a secure, slightly cupped attachment.
  • Sew tail to back center of body at lower rounds 3-6. Angle slightly to one side and reinforce with several passes of yarn to make the tail stable under light handling.
  • Sew belly patch to the front of the body centered vertically between rounds 11-16 and horizontally centered. Use small stitches close to the edge for a neat finish.
  • Add facial embroidery: stitch thick black eyebrows above the eyes, sew the small nose lines and mouth center using short, firm stitches. Weave in and secure all ends.
  • Sew small purple spikes/claws to tail and toes. Group three small spikes on the tail tip and three on top of each foot to match the sample.
  • Check all joins and weave in any remaining tails securely. Optionally add a small amount of fabric glue to the bases of safety eyes for non-child-safe decorative pieces.

Important Notes

  • ๐Ÿ’กUse stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • ๐Ÿ’กStuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • ๐Ÿ’กFor safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • ๐Ÿ’กMaintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • ๐Ÿ’กWhen sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • ๐Ÿ’กPin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • ๐Ÿ’กFor amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
  • ๐Ÿ’กKeep a row counter or notepad to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections

This lovable little devil dragon is a perfect mix of attitude and charm โ€” every detail from the furrowed eyebrow to the crossed arms adds personality. The finished amigurumi is compact, sturdy, and fun to display on a desk or gift to a friend who loves quirky characters. Enjoy the focused satisfaction of assembling the parts into this expressive creature, and show off your finished dragon with pride. ๐Ÿ‰๐Ÿงถ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.25mm hook, the finished piece measures approximately 14-18 cm (5.5-7 in) tall when seated. Using thicker yarn or a larger hook will increase the size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size and amount of stuffing needed.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work. Safety eyes give a polished look, while embroidered eyes are safer for children and allow more expression. Place eyes before fully stuffing the head for best results.

How much stuffing will I need?

Approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient for this size project. Stuff firmly but not excessively to maintain shape and keep stitches from gaping.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely. Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire before stuffing limbs completely. Ensure wire ends are folded or wrapped to prevent poking, and stitch through the wire loops for extra stability.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, unravel back to the last known correct round. Compensating later often creates visible distortions; using a stitch marker and checking counts every few rounds helps avoid errors.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommends and maintain tight consistent tension. Stuff small amounts at a time and use a stuffing tool or chopstick to ease fiberfill into small openings.

Can I customize colors and details?

Yes โ€” change the body color, belly patch, or horn colors to create a unique character. You can add accessories, embroider different eyes or expressions, or tweak proportions for a different personality.