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Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the small red demon dragon you see in the photos: a compact, rounded amigurumi with a large head, chubby body, short limbs, black spiral horns, and bat-like wings. The creature sits upright, has large black safety eyes for a soulful look, and a tapered, segmented tail ending in a triangular point. The deep red yarn gives it a cozy, hand-knit appearance while small black accents (horns and eyes) add contrast.

Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The shaping is done using classic amigurumi increases and decreases, with extra attention paid to wing ridges and tail spikes for a characterful silhouette. The pattern is structured for clear sewing and finishing so parts attach cleanly and the finished toy sits steadily.

Why You'll Love This Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

I love how this pattern balances simple construction with a lot of personality. The oversized head and big shiny eyes create an instant 'aww' factor, while the scalloped wings and pointy tail add playful devilish charm. I also appreciate that the shaping and proportions are forgiving — you can tweak them easily for different expressions or sizes.

Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The basic techniques are accessible enough for confident beginners, yet the details make it interesting for experienced crocheters too.

What I find most exciting about this pattern is how easily you can personalize it to match your own vision. Try experimenting with different color combinations—perhaps a deep burgundy with charcoal horns, or a pink palette for a sweeter look. You could also adjust sizes by using thinner yarn for a miniature or bulkier yarn for a plush giant.

I also encourage adding little custom touches like embroidered eyebrows for expression, metallic thread for wing veins, or internal wire in the tail for dramatic posing. These small changes bring a lot of personality and make each dragon feel completely unique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Forgetting to secure safety eyes before finishing the head will prevent repositioning; add and secure eyes while head opening is still large ✗ Ignoring the Info sections that recommend carrying yarn or changing hook size can change final proportions unexpectedly ✗ Leaving long tail ends unweaved can cause unraveling; weave ends through several stitches and trim close to work ✗ Not pinning pieces before sewing often leads to crooked placement; pin and photograph positions before final sewing ✗ Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi will create gaps showing stuffing; choose a tighter gauge and smaller hook for a neat finish

Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable small red demon dragon with pointy tail, black horns, cupped ears, and scalloped bat-style wings. This pattern recreates the plush, rounded head, big shiny eyes, and chubby body seen in the photo. Perfect for a cozy handmade gift or a spooky-sweet shelf friend, the design emphasizes simple shaping, clear assembly, and charming details like wing ridges and a forked tail tip.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Small Red Demon Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150-180g in main color: deep red (as shown)
  • 02
    30-40g in accent color A: black for horns and small details
  • 03
    Optional small amount (10-20g) of darker red/maroons for tail spikes and extra shading
  • 04
    Small scrap (5g) of white or pale yarn if you prefer to embroider eye highlights rather than relying solely on safety eyes

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (or adjust to achieve tight gauge)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for smaller details (horns, spikes) if you prefer tighter stitches
  • 03
    8mm or 10mm safety eyes (choose based on finished head size; 10mm used in photo)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and positioning
  • 09
    Optional: 18-22 gauge floral wire or pipe cleaners for poseable limbs or tail support
  • 10
    Optional: Fabric glue for securing knots or safety eyes (use sparingly)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-18 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 12-13. In the photo they sit around round 13; space them 9-11 stitches apart depending on desired expression. Secure eyes now before the head is too stuffed.

Round 19 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 21 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head firmly but not overstuffed. Use small bits of fiberfill and press them into the nose area to preserve the rounded muzzle. Continue stuffing as you decrease to keep shape even.

Round 22 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing through the hole; needle-woven closure is recommended to create an invisible seam. If attaching directly to the body, leave extra tail for sewing into the neck opening.

— Neck Join Collar (worked after head or when joining to body) :

Round 1 :

Attach yarn to the neck opening. Work 1 sc in each of the 6 stitches around (6)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Info :

This small collar helps you sew the head securely to the body. Alternatively, leave the head open and sew through head and body rounds with mattress or whip stitch for a firm join.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

If you want a slightly longer torso like the photographed toy, add extra even rounds here. The body is worked in the round from bottom-up so keep the opening large to attach legs later if you prefer sewing them on separately.

Round 11 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 12-16 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Begin stuffing the body through the top opening after you finish even rounds 12-16. Stuff firmly enough that the head sits stable, but leave the neck area slightly softer for sewing. Add fiberfill gradually as you decrease.

Round 19-22 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Stop stuffing just before you close the body completely if you plan to attach the head by sewing; leave enough opening to position head and stitch collar to body. If attaching head and then closing under it, fasten off with long tail for sewing and finish stuffing to desired firmness.

Round 25 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail. If you left the body open to sew the head on, join head collar to the top of the body with a mattress stitch, aligning center back and front. Use pins to check symmetry before stitching.

— Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-8 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

These rounds form the rounded hand/top of the paw. Stuff the hand portion firmly so it keeps a rounded shape; add a small dab of stuffing because fingers are minimal in the photo.

Round 9 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 10-13 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 14 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 19 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 1 sc in next 4 (8)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Info :

Leave a long tail for sewing the arms to the body. In the reference, the arms are slightly short and attach around body rounds 20-24; position them equidistant from the center front. Stuff wrists lightly and hands firmly; avoid overstuffing the upper arm.

— Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

These rounds form the foot sole and lower leg volume. Stuff the foot firmly so the toy can sit. Add extra stuffing near the toe area to create chunky feet as seen in the photo.

Round 11 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13-17 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 19 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 20-22 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Leave a long tail for sewing. Attach legs to the bottom of the body so the creature can sit upright. In the reference, legs are slightly forward-facing; pin them before sewing for best balance.

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 7 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (12); fold slightly and sew base for cupped ear shape

Info :

Ears are cupped and sit on the upper head sides. Pin them at head rounds 6-8 spaced approximately 10-12 stitches from center back to prevent a too-forward placement. Sew securely with the long tail.

— Horns (Make 2 in black) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 2 sc (20)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (20)

Round 8 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 4 sc (16)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (16)

Round 10 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 4 sc (12)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 4 sc (8)

Info :

Horns form tapered cones. Do not overstuff; a small amount of fiberfill helps maintain shape. In the reference, horns tilt slightly forward—position and sew into head at round 6-7, spaced symmetrically along the crown.

— Wings (Make 2 - flat wing panels then edge ridges) :

Wing Panel Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Wing Panel Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Wing Panel Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Wing Panel Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Wing Panel Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Wing Panel Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Wing Panel Round 7 :

Change to BLO: 1 sc in each st BLO (30)

Info :

Working some rounds in BLO creates a ridge that becomes the wing rib when folded. After forming the panel, you will work scalloped ridges to form bat wing membranes.

Wing Panel Round 8 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Wing Panel Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Wing Panel Round 10 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Wing Panel Round 11-12 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Wing Membrane Rounds 13 :

Switch to ridge pattern: *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st* around to create scallops (approximately 14 scallops). Adjust spacing to end evenly.

Wing Membrane Round 14 :

Sl st around and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Fold the panel so the BLO ridge becomes the wing bone and sew along the ridge to form a 3-D wing. In the reference the wings are moderately sized, with three distinct scallops per edge; you can make them larger by adding more increases before scalloping.

— Tail (Main Tail Cone and Forked Tip) :

Tail Cone Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Tail is worked in a gentle cone. Stuff lightly as you work; if you want the tail to be poseable, insert a length of floral wire or thin pipe cleaner before it is completely stuffed and closed.

Round 11 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 12 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

For forked or triangular tail tip like the pictured arrowhead, crochet two small identical triangular spikes and sew them to the end of the tail. Leave a tail of yarn to anchor each spike securely.

Tail Spike (Make 2) Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

4 inc (8)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 4 (12)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 5 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 6 :

(4 dec) (4)

Info :

Stuff lightly, flatten spike, and shape into triangular arrowhead. Sew two spikes side-by-side at the tail end to recreate the pointed tail tip in the photo.

— Tail Spines / Back Scales (Make 6-8 small scales) :

Scale Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Scale Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Scale Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Scale Round 4 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Info :

Sew scales along the tail and lower back, spacing evenly. In the reference the scales are small and triangular; flatten each scale slightly when sewing so they stand away from the tail.

— Wing Detail Ridges (Optional - Make 3 small ribs per wing) :

Ridge Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Ridge Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Ridge Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Sew these to the wing panel running from the base toward the scalloped edge to mimic the ribbing seen in bat wings. Work them into the BLO ridge you created for a natural fold.

— Foot Toe Details (Optional small bumps, 3 per foot) :

Toe Bump Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Toe Bump Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Info :

Sew three small bumps near the top of the foot to mimic toes; in the reference these are subtle and formed by small circular motifs sewn on the foot.

— Finishing and Assembly Notes :

Info :

Before sewing anything: block any flat pieces like wings lightly (pin to shape and steam lightly or set with a damp cloth) so they hold their scalloped edge. Use pins to position head, arms, legs, ears, horns and wings. Refer to the photos for relative placement — head centered on top of body, wings attached at upper back, tail at center back low enough the toy can sit without toppling.

Info :

Sew pieces with a yarn needle and matching yarn. Use a ladder stitch or mattress stitch for an invisible join on the head and body. For the wings and tail, use back-and-forth whip stitches and anchor multiple times for stability.

Info :

Weave in all ends securely. If you used safety eyes, ensure the washers are fully seated. Optional embroidery: a small stitched smile or nostrils can be added with black embroidery thread. Blush the cheeks lightly with diluted fabric paint if desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by aligning the head collar (or head bottom rounds) with the top of the body opening. Pin in place at evenly spaced points and sew through both layers with a yarn needle using a mattress stitch, ensuring the front center of the head aligns with the body front for a natural posture.
  • Position arms on sides of the body at approximately body rounds 12-16 (counting from the base up). Pin to check symmetry and sew securely with a ladder stitch, sewing through the arm tail and several body rounds to create a stable joint.
  • Attach legs to the bottom of the body at base rounds 1-6, spacing them slightly forward so the amigurumi can sit steadily. Sew through both leg and body stitches, using extra secure stitches across the seam to prevent wobble.
  • Sew ears to top sides of the head at head rounds 5-8. The ears should be slightly angled forward—pin and adjust before sewing. Use small stitches at the base to maintain the cupped shape.
  • Sew horns to the crown of the head at head rounds 6-8, spacing them evenly and angling them slightly forward. Sew multiple passes through the horn base and head to keep them firmly anchored.
  • Attach wings to the upper back spanning approximately body rounds 8-14. Use the BLO ridge to guide placement and sew along the ridge for a strong attachment. Anchor tips with a couple of invisible stitches if needed.
  • Sew the tail to the center back at body round 4-6, aligning the tail curve to give the character a balanced seated pose. Secure with several stitches and anchor the forked tip spikes side-by-side.
  • Sew small scales along the back and tail by placing them evenly and stitching across their bases so they stand outward. Use matching red yarn and hide knots inside the body or tail to keep the outside neat.
  • Add facial embroidery (nostrils, tiny smile) using black yarn and a yarn needle. Keep stitches small and tidy to match the minimalist expression in the photo.
  • Weave in all loose ends through several stitches and trim. Check all joints for stability and add extra stitches if any part feels loose. Optionally, apply a tiny dot of fabric glue to the inside of the knot for extra security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches; use a slightly smaller hook if required
  • 💡If adding wire for poseability, insert it before closing small openings and ensure all wire ends are wrapped and covered to prevent poking

This lovable little demon dragon brings together classic amigurumi shaping and delightful devilish details, making a perfect handmade companion. The process of assembling the wings, horns, and tail is satisfying and allows for sweet customization. Every stitch contributes to its personality, and it's a wonderful gift or shelf friend to keep or share. 🧶💖🦴

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size (worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook), the finished dragon measures approximately 20-25 cm (8-10 inches) tall when seated. Using different yarn weights will change the final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size proportionally and may require stitch count adjustments for the wings and spikes.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional, glossy look and are quick to install. Embroidered eyes are ideal for very young children because they have no small parts and allow you to customize the expression.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight, allowing the piece to maintain its shape while still being cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely! Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire before stuffing limbs completely. Bend wire to desired shape, ensuring ends are folded over safely, then continue stuffing around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error early, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also change the horn color, add patterned wings, embroider freckles, or lengthen the tail to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.