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Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern

Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎁

Tiny Treasure

Small, sweet, and gift-worthy creations that fit perfectly in the palm of your hand with detailed charm.

About This Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the hanging plant pot with dangling spooky eyeballs shown in the photos. The main pot is crocheted in a warm brown, topped with bright chartreuse green ‘moss’ and cascading vines with heart-shaped leaves. Several white eyeballs with red irises and black pupils hang from the vines for a playful creepy-cute look. The finished ornament is lightweight, portable, and easy to hang from a hook or door knob.

Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses worsted weight yarn and a small hook to create a tight fabric suitable for amigurumi. Multiple small parts (eyeballs, leaves, vines) are crocheted separately and sewn together—perfect for practicing consistent tension, small-scale shaping, and simple surface embroidery.

Why You'll Love This Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it takes a classic macrame-hanging-plant silhouette and gives it a mischievous Halloween twist. The dangling eyeballs and bright green vines give it so much personality — I always smile when I see how the red irises pop against the white spheres. I also appreciate that the pattern is modular: you can make more or fewer eyeballs, change colors, or adapt it to be a keychain, ornament, or shelf accent.

Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved recommending different ways to personalize this spooky hanging plant — it's one of those patterns where a tiny tweak makes a huge impact. I think changing the iris color to deep purple or gold can create a whole new vibe, and using a variegated green for the vines gives a lovely organic texture.

I often switch up the number and size of eyeballs: try one oversized eye with several tiny 'berry' eyes. You can also swap the brown pot for black and add metallic thread highlights for a gothic twist. If you want a more kid-friendly version, embroider cute faces on the eyes instead of red irises.

If you're short on time, make fewer vines and eyeballs — or create a small keychain-sized version by using thinner yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Have fun experimenting and make it your own!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the beginning of each round will cause the plant to become lopsided; use a marker for the first stitch to track rounds precisely. ✗ Not stuffing the eyeballs and pot as recommended can create flat or misshapen pieces; stuff gradually and check shape frequently. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi yarn leads to visible stuffing and floppy parts; drop one hook size from the yarn recommendation for tight fabric. ✗ Failing to secure embroidered iris threads causes loose stitches over time; weave embroidery threads back inside the eye and tie securely. ✗ Sewing vines and eyeballs on without pinning can result in uneven spacing; pin everything in place and view from all angles before stitching. ✗ Overstuffing the pot makes it difficult to close seams; stuff moderately so the bottom sits flat but the top still receives the plant crown comfortably.

Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern

This spooky-eyes hanging planter is a playful Halloween ornament that pairs a tiny crocheted pot with trailing green vines and several dangling eyeballs. The project features a textured pot, a soft green plant top, long braided cords for hanging, and 4–6 eyeball charms with embroidered red irises and sewn-on black pupils. Perfect for a haunted shelf, a keychain, or a seasonal decoration.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Spooky Hanging Eyeball Plant Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 90-120g in brown (pot color shown)
  • 02
    50-70g in bright chartreuse green (main plant, vines, leaves)
  • 03
    50-80g in white (eyeballs, approx 5 small spheres)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g) in red for irises and black for pupils
  • 05
    Optional: small amount of dark green for inner plant shading

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for main work (use smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric)
  • 02
    2.5mm (C) or 2.75mm hook for tiny details and tighter eyeballs (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Tape measure or ruler
  • 08
    Pins for assembly
  • 09
    Optional: thin floral wire or pipe cleaners for poseable vines
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing embroidered center if desired

Progress Tracker

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— Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for this small ornament, but for consistent amigurumi fabric use a hook one size smaller than recommended for your yarn. Strive for tight stitches so the stuffing does not show. Finished hanging ornament (with 5 eyeballs) measures approximately 18-24 cm (7-9.5 in) from top of hanger to bottom of longest leaf.

— Eyeball (Make 5) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11-16 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

At these even rounds build a smooth, round shape for the eyeball. Check your tension frequently; eyeballs look best smooth and spherical. If you want a slightly smaller eye, work two fewer even rounds here.

Round 17 :

(8 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (54)

Round 18 :

(7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 19 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing the eyeball from the open bottom. Use small amounts of fiberfill at a time to keep the sphere even. Stuff firmly but not overstuffed; eyeballs should be firm to the touch but slightly springy.

Round 21 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

6 dec (6)

Round 26 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (close with yarn needle and weave tail through remaining 6 sts to close). Secure and weave end inside the eyeball (6)

Info :

Create five of these white eyeballs. If you want fewer, adjust number. After finishing, set eyeballs aside for pupil and iris embellishment. You may also use a slightly smaller hook (2.75 mm) for a tighter fabric for spherical smoothness.

— Pupil Disk (Make 5) :

Round 1 :

With black yarn: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. You will sew the black pupil to the front center of each eyeball. Place the pupil centered on the sphere — pin with a tapestry needle and sew through the sphere fabric deeply for a secure attachment. Weave tail into the sphere to secure.

— Iris Embroidery (Make 5) :

Info :

Use bright red yarn to create a small starburst/iris around the black pupil. Work this as surface embroidery or short slip-stitch spokes. The following method creates a tidy, even red ring:

Step 1 :

Thread red yarn through a yarn needle. Insert needle from inside the eyeball to the front just outside the pupil; pull yarn through leaving a short tail inside and knot or weave later.

Step 2 :

Make 6–8 short embroidery stitches radiating outward around the pupil (about 5–7 mm long each), creating a starburst effect. Alternate short and longer stitches for a jagged iris look; keep stitches evenly spaced.

Step 3 :

Finish by making a tight backstitch or small satin stitch ring that encircles the pupil slightly, securing the radial stitches. Weave ends into the eyeball interior securely and trim.

Info :

If you prefer, you can instead crochet a small red round (adjust to fit visually around the pupil) and stitch it in place; embroidery tends to give a sharper starburst effect as in the photos.

— Pot / Planter Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Rounds 9–14 create the main cylinder of the pot. Try the pot around your fingers to check diameter visually. If you want a deeper pot, add more even rounds here.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 16 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 17-18 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Begin stuffing the bottom of the pot lightly so the base is stable. Leave the top opening unstuffed for now; the pot will receive the plant crown later. Stuff only enough to create a flat bottom surface.

Round 22 :

6 dec (6) — Close bottom and weave tail to create a neat flat base

Info :

Fasten off remaining tail and weave into base to secure. If you prefer a flat base that sits well, consider adding a small circle of felt inside glued or stitched to give extra stability.

— Pot Rim & Hanging Loop :

Info :

We will work the top rim and attach hanger cords. Join yarn at the top edge of the pot (the open mouth) evenly spaced around. Count the top round of the pot and mark the beginning stitch with a marker.

Round 1 (Rim) :

Join yarn to the top edge: 1 sc in each st around (36) — work in FLO for a subtle ridge if desired

Round 2 (Rim) :

1 sc in each st BLO (36) — this creates a small ridge and helps keep the rim firm

Round 3 (Rim Finish) :

1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 30 (for hanger), skip 30 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, ch 30, skip 30 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts (36) — position chains to create three hanger lengths (adjust number of chains for desired drop)

Info :

The model shows three thin hanger cords braided or crocheted in a soft brown. You can instead make one long cord or a metal ring for hanging. Securely fasten the chain ends inside the rim by stitching them down so they do not slip.

— Plant Crown (Top Mossy Leaves) :

Round 1 :

With chartreuse green yarn, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

Work bobble/cluster round: *sc in next st, bobble in next st* rep around (24)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 8 :

Attach crown to pot by sewing the 24-st edge into the pot mouth, allowing the bobble round to hang slightly over the rim

Info :

For the bobble/cluster stitch: (yarn over, insert, pull up a loop) x 4 then yarn over and pull through all loops, ch1 to secure — this creates the 'moss' lumps seen spilling over the rim. Position several small clusters around to mimic the photo’s textured crown.

— Vines / Hanging Tubes (Make 6–8, varying lengths) :

Info :

Make multiple vines of varying lengths. Each vine will have a narrow tubular cord with leaves and optionally an eyeball attached near the end. Sample vine construction follows; repeat for each vine, changing chain length to vary drop.

Vine Sample - Chain Tube :

Ch 40 (or desired length). Join with sl st to first ch to form a loop. Work 1 rnd sc into each ch (40) — this creates a flat loop. For a tubular look, fold loop and sc through both loops of each chain to create a narrow tube (40). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to crown.

Info :

Alternatively, create a tight crochet i-cord by chaining 20–50 and working sc back along the chain without joining to create a cord. Use a 2.5–3.0 mm hook for a tidy cord. Leave a long tail for sewing.

— Small Round Moss Balls (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

6 dec (6) — close, leave long tail for attaching to vines

Info :

These tiny moss balls are sewn along the vines to add visual interest and mimic the clustered shapes seen near the top. Stuff lightly before closing.

— Leaves / Heart-Shaped Tips (Make 8–12) :

Method (Flat Leaf) :

ch 6, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next (work other side of foundation chain back: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) Sl st to first stitch and fasten off. Join and shape leaf by working a round of slip stitches and a final round of single crochet around the outside to give thickness.

Alternative (3D Heart) :

Make 2 small circles (6 sc in mr, 6 inc second round = 12, fasten off), press together and seam to form a heart; or follow a small heart motif: ch 4, (sc, hdc, dc) in 1st ch, sl st into next ch, repeat to make two lobes and draw down to a point with a few sc.

Info :

Sew leaves to vine ends and at intervals along vine. For the heart-shaped look in the photos, flatten leaves and pinch the base slightly when sewing to create the little fold visible in the dangling tips.

— Assembly: Sewing Eyes, Moss Balls, Leaves to Vines :

Info :

Decide vine positions before attaching eyeballs so the weight distributes evenly. Typical layout: 6–8 vines evenly spaced around the crown, 4–5 vines carry eyeballs (one eyeball per vine), several small moss balls and leaves placed to balance the look.

Step 1 :

Position each vine inside the crown edge and hand-sew through the crown and top rim with the long tail. Make several stitches through the rim to secure the cord so it can support the weight of the eyeball.

Step 2 :

Sew small moss balls along vines: push the woven tail into the vine, whip stitch around several times and knot inside the moss ball. Use a few hidden stitches to anchor them firmly.

Step 3 :

Sew eyeballs to vine ends by threading the long tail (from eyeball closure) down through the vine and anchoring with several stitches. Position eyeballs so embroidered irises face outward. Add a few more stitches through the vine for security.

Info :

Stitch through several layers (vine tube + inside crown) for a very secure joint. If your vines are made with a core (wire), be sure to fold the wire ends away from the seam or cap them safely before sewing.

— Hanger / Straps :

Method :

For the hanger, use three cords made of brown yarn to match the pot in photos. Chain to desired hanging length (approx 30–40 ch each), then fold and sc through both sides to make 3 cords. Braid the three cords together for 5–10 cm then sew each cord securely into the pot rim stitches made earlier.

Info :

Alternatively you can make one long cord or attach a metal ring. Make sure all hanger anchoring is robust to prevent the ornament from falling apart when hung.

— Final Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all tails, trim close to work. Use a poking tool to even out stuffing if small lumps appear. Add a few surface stitches to tuck in the crown so it appears naturally spilling over the rim. Spray a tiny dot of fabric glue if any embroidery threads seem loose (let dry completely).

Optional :

Add a tiny red embroidery or French knots at random leaf junctions to mimic berries or extra spooky details. You can also add a clear coat of textile glue to the inside of the pot to stiffen the rim.

Info :

If making as a child's toy, omit glued elements and secure everything thoroughly with stitching. Embroider pupils directly instead of attaching small parts to avoid small loose pieces.

— Customization Ideas :

Info :

Make the eyeballs in different sizes, use different iris colors, or make one large eyeball and smaller ones like berries. Try fuzzy eyelids by edging the top of the eyeball with FLO sc in a contrasting color for a sleepy or monstrous look.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head/eyeballs to vines by sewing through the eyeball tail and vine tube; secure with multiple passes and weave tail into the eyeball interior for a clean finish.
  • Position and pin all vines to the crown before final stitching; sew each vine into the crown’s underside at even intervals, reinforcing the seam with several stitches.
  • Sew small moss balls and leaves along vines using the long tails; stuff lightly and anchor firmly to prevent shifting.
  • Attach hanger cords to the pot rim by sewing the chain ends through the rim stitches on the inside of the pot and knotting securely. Braid cords together if desired for strength and style.
  • Sew the crown over the pot rim by aligning the crown’s outer edge with the pot mouth and stitching through both layers to secure; hide the crown seam with a few small whipstitches.
  • Embroider irises and sew pupils on eyeballs after attaching them to vines so you can orient the faces outward prior to finishing; weave in embroidery ends securely.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like where the vines sew in
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - however this pattern uses sewn/embroidered pupils to avoid small detachable parts
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff pieces, too loose shows stuffing and flattens shapes
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use a yarn needle with a length of thread/yarn slightly thinner than the main yarn for neater seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in place before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For hanging ornaments, double-stitch hanger anchors and knot securely; test weight before final placement
  • 💡If adding wire inside vines for poseability, fold the ends and wrap completely with yarn before final assembly to protect stuffing and fabric

This spooky hanging eyeball plant is the perfect tiny treasure to add personality to shelf corners, doorways, or your Halloween display. Each dangling eye and heart-shaped leaf adds a playful, slightly creepy charm you will love showing off. The modular construction makes it fun to customize — add more eyes, change color palettes, or scale the design up or down. Happy crocheting and enjoy your eerie creation! 🧶👁️

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished hanging ornament with 5 eyeballs measures approximately 18-24 cm (7-9.5 in) from top of hanger to bottom of longest leaf. Changing yarn weight or hook will change the final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally one size smaller than the yarn label for tight amigurumi fabric). Thicker yarn will make a larger, chunkier planter and eyeballs; thinner yarn will make a more delicate ornament.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Embroidery is recommended for this design (black pupil and red iris), as it avoids small detachable parts and gives you precise placement. If you prefer safety eyes, choose sizes that fit the eyeball scale and secure them before stuffing.

How much stuffing will I need?

For the entire project (pot, crown, 5 eyeballs, moss balls), approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Use small amounts at a time for even shaping.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

This design has vines rather than limbs. To make vines poseable, insert thin floral wire or pipe cleaners before stuffing, ensuring wire ends are folded and wrapped securely inside the crochet tube to avoid piercing fabric.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Use a stitch marker at round starts and recount every 4–6 rounds to catch mistakes early.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with a tight, consistent tension and use a slightly smaller hook than recommended by the yarn. When stuffing, add fiberfill in small portions and compress gently to keep the shape even.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Change the eyeball iris colors, the pot color, or the leaf shades. You can make a pastel, winter, or whimsical color palette—this pattern is very forgiving and adaptable for creative variations.