Bright sunflower granny squares join together to form a long, lacy table runner. This pattern features textured sunflower centers in golden brown and yellow, small green leaf clusters, boxed white granny frames, and an elegant scalloped lace border. The runner in the photo is a narrow, elegant centerpiece built from multiple identical squares joined and edged for a finished, heirloom look. Clear step-by-step rounds and helpful tips are included for assembly and finishing.
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— Overview :
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This pattern produces a narrow runner composed of 3 columns by 6 rows of sunflower granny squares (3 x 6 = 18 squares). Each sunflower square is worked from center out in multiple color rounds and finished with a white framed square. Squares are joined with a slip-stitch join-as-you-go method, then the assembled runner is worked around with an elegant scalloped lace edging. Adjust the number of squares to lengthen or shorten the runner. Gauge is not strict for a decorative runner, but consistent tension helps align edges for joining.
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Terminology: This pattern uses US crochet terms. Puff stitch definition: yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up loop (repeat 3-4 times as indicated), yarn over and pull through all loops on hook, ch1 to secure puff unless specified otherwise.
— Motif: Sunflower center & petals (work 18 identical squares) :
Round 1 :
With brown yarn, 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
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Finish brown center. We will use this round as the base to anchor the yellow petals. Make sure your ring is flat — if the center cups too much, lightly block before adding petals.
Round 5 :
Change to yellow yarn. *Ch1, work a 3-loop puff (yarn over, insert, pull up loop) x3 in next st, ch1, sl st in next st; rep from * around to make 12 puff petals. End with sl st to join (24 'anchor' points, 12 visible petals)
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Puff stitch note: Keep each puff's height consistent by pulling loops to the same height — aim for approximately 1/2" or consistent with surrounding stitches. Complete the final yarn over and pull through all loops, then ch1 to secure the puff and prevent it from closing too tightly.
Round 6 :
With yellow still, *sc in the sl st made between puffs, ch3, sk the next puff anchor st (the st behind the puff), sc in the next sl st; rep across to create small arches between petals (24 sc anchors, 12 ch-3 arches)
Round 7 :
Change to green. Join in a ch-3 space. *(sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in ch-3 sp to create a small leaf/cluster; ch1, sl st in next sc anchor; rep across all ch-3 spaces, ending with sl st to join (12 leaf clusters, same stitch count as previous round)
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Leaf clusters should sit between petals and slightly overlap the yellow to create the sunflower silhouette. Keep clusters low-profile so the white frame sits flat later.
Round 8 :
With green, sc in each stitch and around each cluster to even out the round—work 1 sc in each underlying stitch and 1 sc in each ch-1 space; total count will be approximately 36 sc (this evens the circumference for squaring)
Round 9 :
Change to cream/ivory. Begin converting round to a square: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 inc in next st; rep around (48)
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We are increasing to create enough fabric to form defined corners on the next rounds. Count carefully: previous round ~36; (2 sc, inc) x 12 = adds 12 to reach 48 total stitches.
Round 10 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (60)
Round 11 :
(4 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (72)
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These increases broaden the motif evenly so it will square-up more easily in the next rounds. Work them consistently; place a stitch marker at round start to keep track.
Round 12 :
1 sc in each st around (72)
Round 13 :
1 sc in each st BLO (72)
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Working the back loops only on this round creates a definition ridge that will help the subsequent corner shell placements sit neatly and give the square frame a subtle texture line.
Round 14 :
Switch to cream. Work a corner-squaring round: *(sc in next 15 sts, [sc, ch2, sc] in next st) for corner; rep 4 times to form 4 corners (total stitches remain 72 but you will have 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
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We are creating 4 corner ch-2 spaces to turn the round into a square. Sc counts remain mathematically consistent because the corner group is worked into one stitch and uses the ch-2 for turning space.
Round 15 :
In corner spaces work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) to form a pronounced corner shell. Along each side, work *(1 sc in next 7 sts, 1 hdc in next 1 st) to keep sides flat; finish with corner shells in each ch-2 (this creates a neat square frame approx 10-11 sts per side between corners depending on tension)
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Count each side after completing the round to confirm balanced corner placement. Adjust by shifting one sc if your work looks slightly skewed; it's common to need 1-2 stitches of adjustment depending on your puff stitch density.
Round 16 :
1 sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each corner shell top to distribute evenly (approx 80 sc total depending on your prior spacing)
Round 17 :
1 sc in each st BLO for a defined edge (approx 80)
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Trim and weave in color tails for the brown, yellow, and green rounds if preferred now, or leave tails to be woven during assembly. Blocking each square flat before joining will greatly improve edge alignment.
Round 18 :
Finish square body with one round of crab stitch (reverse single crochet) around the entire square to give a neat, slightly twisted raised edge (80) — fasten off and weave ends.
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Make 18 identical squares following Rounds 1-18. If you want a smaller runner, make fewer squares; for a wider runner make 4 columns instead of 3. Block all squares before joining to ensure consistent size and shape.
— Join-As-You-Go and Assembly (work while assembling squares into the runner) :
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Arrange squares in 3 columns by 6 rows (3 x 6) with sunflower motifs centered and oriented consistently. The join-as-you-go (JAYG) method will be used to produce an invisible seam that sits as a narrow ridge in the cream frame. Begin building the runner by joining squares row by row; you will join along two edges for internal squares and three edges for corner squares if you prefer.
Round 19 :
With cream, pick up first square and place second square adjacent, right sides facing out (motif faces you). Join in corner sc of first square and ch1, sc across to meet corresponding sc on second square; when you reach the seam alignment point, sl st through corresponding stitch on second square and sl st back to working square to secure—continue to end of side. Fasten off. (Seam will mirror the sc count of side; no global stitch count)
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For neat alignment, place squares on a flat surface and pin with blocking pins before joining. Work the join with the working square facing you, slip-stitching into the corresponding stitch on the adjacent square through the back loop only for an invisible seam.
Round 20 :
Continue joining squares across the first row: join square 3 to square 2 with same JAYG method. Once a full row of 3 is joined, make a second row of 3 squares, then attach the second row to the first by joining along the long edge using the same slip-stitch technique. Repeat until you have 6 rows joined into a 3 x 6 rectangle.
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When joining rows together, work along the top edges of the lower row and the bottom edges of the upper row; align crisp corners and check motif placement often. If you prefer, use mattress stitch sewing for a softer seam instead of slip stitching.
Round 21 :
After joining all squares, work one round of sc around the entire assembled runner to even edges and close minor gaps at joins—work 1 sc in each visible stitch and 2 sc in corner points as needed (perimeter sc count varies based on assembled size)
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This round evens the runner shape and provides a uniform base for the lace edging. Keep tension even and add extra sc into any gaps at joins to close holes.
Round 22 :
Work a second round 1 sc in each st around in BLO to create a ridge that will anchor the scalloped border (perimeter count unchanged)
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Measure the assembled runner now: Approximately 12-14" wide by 48-54" long depending on gauge and motif count. Adjust by adding/subtracting squares to reach your desired size before continuing to edging.
— Scalloped Lace Border (detailed multi-round edging) :
Round 23 :
Change to cream if not already. *Ch3 (counts as dc), skip 1 st, dc in next st; rep across to the first corner, working 3 dc in each corner space to turn; continue along entire perimeter in pattern (this sets up for shell rounds)
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The following border is built in multiple rounds to create deep scallops and lacy picots. Work in the round continuously along the outer edge; place stitch markers at start, quarter points, and corners to maintain even shell placement.
Round 24 :
1 sc in each st around to tidy the edge and prepare for shell placement (perimeter count unchanged)
Round 25 :
*Ch3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same st (5 dc shell total), sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep around; in corner points work 7 dc shells to create rounded corners
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Shell size and spacing control the lace look. If your shells appear too dense, skip an extra stitch between shells to spread them out; if too sparse, reduce skipped stitches.
Round 26 :
In the top of each shell work 1 sc to anchor; in stretch spaces between shells work ch3, sc to create small lacy arches (this establishes a small lacy row above shells)
Round 27 :
*(Ch5, sl st into top of next shell to form loop), sl st in next anchor sc; rep across forming a row of picot loops above each shell
Round 28 :
Work 1 sc in each loop and between anchors to tighten foundation for the large scallops; count should remain consistent with number of shells created
Round 29 :
*In each picot loop work (ch2, 5 dc, ch2) as a large shell, sl st to base to anchor; rep across to form deep scallops (number of scallops equals number of initial shells)
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These deep scallops create the dramatic lace edge seen in the photo. Keep the ch-2 turning spaces consistent so scallops are evenly arced.
Round 30 :
1 sc in each dc of each large scallop to define shell edges, plus 3 sc in each corner scallop for rounded corners (perimeter count equals total dc stitches across scallops)
Round 31 :
*Picot edging: (3 dc, ch3, sl st in first dc) across top of each scallop to form a small pointed picot; rep across and fasten off when complete
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At this stage the runner has a deep lacy edge. If you prefer more delicate lace, reduce shell sizes to 3 dc shells and 3-dc scallops instead of 5-dc. Conversely, increase to 7-dc shells for a more dramatic edge.
Round 32 :
Optional decorative round: With contrasting cream on top of scallops, work single crochet into the tops to create a raised beaded border. Work *sc, ch2, sc in top of each scallop* around (gives small looped finish)
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If your assembled runner is very long, you can break the edging into two passes (work half the perimeter then re-anchor at a seam) to reduce tension and bunching while you work.
Round 33 :
Finish by weaving in all remaining tails. If desired, use a damp blocking to shape scallops: pin scallops on blocking mat evenly spaced, spray or wet slightly, and allow to dry fully before unpinning.
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The photo's delicate lace border is achieved by layered shells and picots. If you wish to add more depth, repeat the scallop-plus-picot sequence once more (repeat Rounds 29-31) for extra height, keeping counts proportional.
— Variations & Size Adjustments :
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To create a shorter runner, reduce the number of rows (e.g., 3 rows for a small centerpiece). To create a tablecloth-sized piece, increase columns and rows and plan for additional border rounds. For a placemat set, make single squares with smaller borders around each.
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Color swaps: Use rust or deep orange for petals for an autumnal runner, or soft pinks for spring. To tone down contrast, use a warm off-white for the frame instead of bright cream.
— Care & Finishing :
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Gently hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape while wet and dry flat. Avoid tumble drying to preserve lace shape. For crisp edges, steam-block carefully using a pressing cloth over the lace if required.
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Store flat or loosely rolled; avoid folding long-term as the lace scallops may crease. If storing for gifting, place acid-free tissue between folds and keep away from strong light to preserve color vibrancy.
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Notes on stitch counts: Because puff stitches and shell work create variable density, exact stitch counts per round may vary slightly by crocheter. The pattern emphasizes consistent repetition and even placement of shells and corners; count often and adjust a stitch or two per side if necessary to keep square shape and even shell distribution.
Your finished sunflower runner is a joyful handmade accent that brings warmth to any table. The bright sunflowers framed by a lacy cream border make it both cheerful and elegant. Each modular square can be made in spare moments and assembled when ready, so this project is wonderfully satisfying to complete. Place it on a coffee table or dining table to add charm and handcrafted beauty to your home. 🌻🧶
