Make a cozy, graphic sweater featuring a charming intarsia fish motif you can wear every day. This pattern guides you through whole-panel crochet in HDC with clear graphing instructions and two fish sizes, so you can personalise the placement and scale. Youll learn color-changing, intarsia, and double-threaded yarn techniques while building front and back panels, sleeves, collar, and ribbing for a professional finish.
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— Materials :
Info :
Aran weight yarn for base (I used Adlibris Socki Plus 100g = 156m). Double-pulled DK weight scrap yarn for fish details. 5mm crochet hook. Scissors. Stitch markers / bobby pins.
— Configuration :
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The sweater consists of two rectangular panels for the front and back, two sleeves, ribbing, and a collar. All is crocheted in HDC. Adjust width by adding/detracting STS, adjust length by adding/detracting rows, and try on as you go for best fit.
— Gauge and Yardage :
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My gauge was 10x10 cm = 14 sts x 12 rows in HDC. Yardage shown in table is approximate and based on aran weight yarn (100g = 156m). The fish uses very little yarn and you will be fine with 10-20g per color.
— Notes on technique :
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How to change colors: Start the color change in your last ST of color A by starting the HDC in A and finishing in B; after pulling through color B counts as first ST in new color. Carrying the yarn vs Intarsia: Carrying brings non-working color with you; Intarsia drops unused colors. The author prefers Intarsia for a clearer finish. Double-threaded yarn: combining two different yarns gives variegated effect; the fish was mostly double-threaded.
— Graphing :
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This pattern has one main graph for the fish (two sizes available). Each pixel = one stitch and each row of pixels = one row of crochet. After every row CH2 and turn your work; the CH2 TO is not included in the graph. Graphs are read bottom right to top left. The foundation chain is not included in the graph. CH2 TO at the end of each row are not included in the graphs.
— Written pattern - Front panel :
Foundation row :
CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).
Round R1 :
HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.
Round R2 :
HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
Info :
For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 20 times, for a total of 22 rows. For sizes M-L: Repeat R2 24 times, for a total of 26 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 30 times, for a total of 32 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 36 times, for a total of 38 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 42 times, for a total of 44 rows.
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If you want a longer/shorter sweater, you may add/detract rows. Just make sure you finish on an even row, meaning the tail from your foundation row is facing left after you CH2 and TO at the end of your last row.
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Start the fish graph after the base rows. There are two fish graph sizes; sizes XS-M use the smaller graph and L and upwards use the bigger graph to ensure enough padding on the sides so the fish is visible when panels wrap around.
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The bigger fish measures 34cm width and 18cm height. The smaller fish measures 28cm width and 16cm height. It is important that you start the fish on an odd row: XS/S: 23, M/L: 27, XL/2XL: 33, 3XL-4XL: 39, 5XL: 45.
— Smaller Fish Graph :
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The smaller fish is 39 STS wide and 16 R tall. To center your placement, detract 39 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.
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Example: size XS is 53 STS wide. 53 - 39 = 14. 14/2 = 7. There should be 7 STS of your background color on each side of the graph.
Round :
On an odd row (23, 23, 27), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (7, 10, 13). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.
Round :
After the 39th HDC of each row, HDC (7, 10, 13), until end of the row. Repeat for 16 rows, until the end of the graph.
Round :
Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 14 rows, for a total of (52, 52, 56) rows.
Info :
** Please note: if you get a fraction when you calculate your placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 54-39 = 15 and 15/2 = 7.5, then HDC 7, enter graph, then HDC 8 after you exit the graph. **
— Bigger Fish Graph :
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The bigger fish is 47 STS wide and 21 R tall. To center your placement, detract 47 from your number of STS and divide that number by 2. The final number is the number of STS from each side (left and right) you should have before referring to the graph.
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Example, size L is 74 STS wide: 74 - 47 = 27. 27/2 = 13.5. To solve this, make 13 STS on one side and 14 STS on the other.
Round :
On an odd row (27, 33, 33, 39, 39, 45), with your foundation chain tail facing left: HDC (13, 16, 19, 24, 27, 30). Enter graph, starting at bottom right.
Round :
After the 47th HDC of each row, HDC (14, 17, 20, 24, 27, 30), until end of the row. Repeat for 21 rows until the end of the graph.
Info :
Continued: Exit graph and HDC in each STS for 9 rows, for a total of (56, 62, 62, 68, 68, 74) rows.
Info :
** Please note: if you get a fraction when you calculate your fish placement and divide your STS count in two, e.g. 66-39 = 27 and then 27/2 = 13.5, then HDC 13, enter graph, then HDC 14 after you exit the graph. Since the fish is not symmetrical, one stitch difference from the center won't be visible. **
— Neckline Shaping - Front :
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At row (53, 53, 57, 57, 63, 63, 69, 69, 75) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions. The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time.
Round Step 1 :
HDC (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO.
Round Step 2 :
HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
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Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off.
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To make the other side, count STS from the edge and add a stitch marker in the (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46)th ST. Attach your yarn by your stitch marker.
Round 1 :
HDC until the end of the row (19, 22, 25, 29, 32, 35, 40, 43, 46). CH2 and TO.
Round 2 :
HDC until there are two STS left on the row. HDC2TOG. CH2 and TO.
Info :
Repeat step 1 and 2 for 8 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row 8, fasten off. You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows for the front panel.
— Back panel :
Foundation row :
CH (55, 61, 68, 76, 82, 88, 97, 103, 109).
Round R1 :
HDC in the third CH from your hook. HDC until the end of the row for a total of (53, 59, 66, 74, 80, 86, 95, 101, 107) STS. CH 2 and TO.
Round R2 :
HDC in each ST until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
Info :
For sizes XS-S: Repeat R2 54 times, for a total of 56 rows. For size M-L: Repeat R2 58 times, for a total of 60 rows. For sizes XL-2XL: Repeat R2 66 times, for a total of 68 rows. For sizes 3XL-4XL: Repeat R2 72 times, for a total of 74 rows. For size 5XL: Repeat R2 78 times, for a total of 80 rows. Or repeat however many rows you made your front panel, minus four (for the back panel's shoulder extensions).
— Neckline Shaping - Back :
Info :
At row (57, 57, 61, 61, 69, 69, 75, 75, 81) we will start the neckline shaping/shoulder extensions for the back panel. The shoulder extensions are worked separately, meaning you do the left and right side one at a time. The process is the same as it is for the front, but you do 4 rows of decreases instead of 8.
Round Step 1 :
HDC (17, 20, 23, 27, 30, 33, 38, 41, 44). CH2 and TO.
Round Step 2 :
HDC2TOG. HDC until the end of the row. CH2 and TO.
Info :
Repeat step 1 and 2 for 4 rows, alternating between decreases. At the end of row four, fasten off. To make the other side, count STS from the edge and add a stitch marker in the (17, 20, 23, 27, 30, 33, 38, 41, 44)th ST and repeat the same steps for 4 rows. Fasten off. You should have a total of (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84) rows.
— Joining the panels :
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When you've finished your two panels, it's time to seam them together at the shoulders. You may either SL ST them together or sew them together, whatever you prefer.
— Collar :
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After you've joined the panels, let's make the collar. Start by attaching your yarn anywhere on your neckline. CH 1 and SC around. Make two rows of SC and SL ST to your starting point. From here:
Round Foundation :
CH 6 ST or however tall you want your collar to be.
Round 1 :
Starting from the 2nd CH from hook, SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.
Round 2 :
SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). CH1 and TO.
Round 3 :
SC in the BLO until the end of the row (5). SL ST in the next two STS. TO.
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Repeat step 2 and 3 until your collar reaches around. Make sure you can fit your head through!
— Sleeves :
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SL ST the two panels together going from the bottom up to create the sleeve holes. Modify how loose/tight you want the sleeve to be on your armpit. When satisfied, SC around the hole, slip stitching into the first ST. This will be your base.
Round Row 1 :
HDC in each ST. SL ST into the first ST. TO.
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Repeat row 1 until you reach the length you wish. Repeat for the other side.
— Ribbing and arm cuffs :
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This is how you make the ribbing: 1. CH to the desired height of ribbing + 1 (example: for 6 STS tall start by chaining 7). 2. HDC in each CH (6). 3. HDC in the BLO of each ST. 4. Repeat until ribbing reaches around both panels.
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When you have your ribbing, attach it to the bottom of the sweater by SL ST or by sewing. For the cuffs: CH to the desired width of your cuff + 1. 1. HDC in each CH. 2. HDC in the BLO of each ST. 3. Repeat until cuff reaches around wrist. Attach cuffs to the bottom of the sleeve by SL ST or sewing.
— Finishing :
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Now just weave in all those loose ends and you're all done!!!
This cozy Fishy Aleks sweater pattern is designed to be playful, wearable, and totally customizable — perfect for gifting or keeping! The intarsia fish adds bold personality while the simple HDC construction keeps the make approachable. Make it in your favourite colour palette and wear with pride. 🧶🐟✨
