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The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern

The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a cute little devil amigurumi worked primarily in continuous rounds. It includes optional horns, tail, spike, wings, and two horn styles so you can personalize your creature. Clear round-by-round instructions and stitch counts are provided to keep you on track while assembling all pieces.

The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques covered include working in the BLO for wings, invisible decreases for smooth shaping, and sewing tips for clean assembly. Optional embellishments like sequins and embroidered freckles are included.

Why You'll Love This The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances simple amigurumi construction with fun customization options that let your creativity shine. I enjoy the little decisions—horn style, sequins or embroidery, wings or no wings—that make each finished doll unique. The shaping technique using invisible decreases gives a smooth, professional finish that I find very satisfying. Sharing it with testers who turned their devils into Krampus-style characters was delightful and shows how versatile this pattern can be.

The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this little devil, and I often change colors and embellishments to suit the season.

I sometimes switch to pastel yarns for a softer look or add sequins and shiny yarn for a festive, sparkly creature.

To make a mini keychain version I use thinner yarn and a smaller hook; the same pattern works scaled down nicely.

I also try using faux fur yarn on the belly or chin to create a furry Krampus-style variant that looks delightfully different.

For more personality, I embroider freckles, a belly button, or tiny expressions using embroidery floss—small changes make a big impact.

I recommend experimenting with horn placement and size; moving ears or horns slightly changes the character dramatically.

If you want poseable limbs, try inserting small wire into the arms or tail but secure it safely inside so it does not poke the surface.

Changing yarn weight will change size: use a bulkier yarn for a chunky, cuddly friend or thin yarn for a delicate miniature.

I like to sew on little accessories—scarves, tiny hearts, or a miniature cape—to give each doll a story and extra charm.

Don't be afraid to try different eye types: safety eyes, embroidered eyes, or felt can all change the finished look and make the doll unique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping a stitch marker when working continuous rounds leads to losing your round start; always place and move a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. ✗ Forgetting to stuff evenly causes misshapen limbs or head; stuff gradually while crocheting and check the shape frequently as you go. ✗ Not working decreases in the front loop only (when instructed) will create bumps; follow the invisible decrease method by decreasing in the front loops for a smooth finish. ✗ Changing color without securing tails allows ends to come loose later; leave long tails and weave or sew them in when instructed to keep a secure join. ✗ Pulling stitches too tight when using sequins or embroidery will distort the fabric; use even tension and small stitches to attach embellishments neatly.

The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern

Make a playful little devil amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will work in continuous rounds to create a cuddly character with optional horns, wings, tail, and sequined details. The pattern includes clear instructions, stitch counts, and helpful assembly tips so you can finish a charming handmade friend you will be proud of.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for The Little Devil Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    #4 worsted weight yarn, main body color - approximately 180 yards
  • 02
    #4 worsted weight yarn, accent color - approximately 50 yards
  • 03
    Embroidery floss - optional, approximately 9 yards for freckles and belly button
  • 04
    Sequins - optional, small quantity for belly decoration or embellishments

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.00 mm
  • 03
    Poly-fill for stuffing
  • 04
    Stitch marker
  • 05
    Tapestry needle
  • 06
    Sewing/straight pins
  • 07
    20.00 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Optional: sequins and embroidery floss

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— General Information :

Info :

Materials: You will need #4 worsted weight yarn in two different colors, 3.00 mm crochet hook, 2.00 mm crochet hook, poly-fill for stuffing, stitch marker, tapestry needle, sewing/straight pins, and 20.00 mm safety eyes. Optionally you may need sequins and embroidery floss.

Info :

Gauge: 4 sts by 5 rows = 1 inch with a 3.00 mm crochet hook and worsted weight yarn. Gauge is not extremely important for this pattern. You just want to keep even tension and crochet tight enough that stuffing does not poke through the holes.

Info :

Abbreviations: Ch: chain. Sl st: slip stitch. Sc: single crochet. Blo: back loop only. Sc inc: single crochet increase. Sc dec: single crochet decrease.

Info :

Notes: This would be considered an intermediate pattern. Sewing skills and patience are required! This pattern is written in US crochet terminology. Most of this pattern is worked in continuous rounds so you will need to use a stitch marker. This is a lengthy pattern so I will be including a notes section before each new task. Yarn and hook information will be included before each new task. Happy hooking!

Info :

Other important Information! When making amigurumi I suggest using the invisible decrease method. There are a ton of YouTube tutorials on this but basically you decrease as you normally would but in the front loops only. This ensures that there won't be any bumps or gaps in your finished amigurumi project! Please note that the rest of your project will be worked through both loops! You will only be working in the front loops when you decrease!

Info :

Now on to the crochet pattern! There will be a couple different ways to make your little devil. You will have 2 options for horns. I have included instructions for a tail, but you may want to make yours without a tail. I have also included instructions on how to create wings. These are also optional. Different yarn color choices and embellishments can change how your finished creature looks. I used embroidery floss to add freckles/belly button to one and sewed sequins onto the other.

— Ears :

Info :

Use a 3.00 mm crochet hook. Use main body color. The ears are worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 6 sc into the the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (6 sts)

Round 2-3 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (6 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Place them aside for now!

— Horns :

Info :

Horns: (two options provided). Use 2.00 mm crochet hook. Use accent color. The horns are worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 2 horns.

— Option 1 :

Use 2.00 mm crochet hook. Use accent color. The horns are worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 2 horns.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 4 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (4 sts)

Round 2 :

{sc, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (6 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 2, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 4 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 3, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 6 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 7 :

Inc, sc, inc, sc 7. Place stitch marker. (12 sts)

Round 8 :

Sc around. (12 sts)

Round 9 :

Inc, sc 2, inc, sc 8. Place stitch marker. (14 sts)

Round 10 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (14 sts)

Round 11 :

Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 9. Place stitch marker. (16 sts)

Round 12 :

inc, sc 14, inc. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 13 :

Sc 16. Inc twice. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 14 :

Sc around. (20 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Gently stuff. Set aside for now!

— Option 2 :

Use 2.00 mm crochet hook. Use accent color. The horns are worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 2 horns.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 4 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (4 sts)

Round 2 :

{sc, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (6 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 2, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 4 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 3, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 6 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 7 :

Inc, sc, inc, sc 7. Place stitch marker. (12 sts)

Round 8 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (12 sts)

Round 9 :

Inc, sc 2, inc, sc 8. Place stitch marker. (14 sts)

Round 10 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (14 sts)

Round 11 :

Inc, sc 3, inc, sc 9. Place stitch marker. (16 sts)

Round 12 :

Sc 16. Inc twice. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 13 :

Sc around. (20 sts)

Round 14 :

Sc around. (20 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Gently stuff. Set aside for now!

— Legs :

Info :

Use 3.00 mm crochet hook. Start with accent color! WATCH for directions on when to change color. The legs are worked in continuous round so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 2 legs. Stuff the legs with poly-fill as you go!

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 10 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 2 :

{sc, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (15 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 2, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 4 :

{sc 3, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 4, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (30 sts)

Round 6 :

In the blo! {sc 4, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 7-8 :

Sc around. Place your stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 9 :

{sc 3, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 10-12 :

Sc around. Place your stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 13 :

{sc 2, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (15 sts)

Round 14-24 :

Sc around. Place your stitch marker. (15 sts)

Round 25 :

{sc, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Info :

Do not stuff the last two rounds with poly-fill!

Round 26-27 :

Sc around. Place your stitch marker. (10 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing! Gently stuff the leg. Make sure to leave the last two rounds unstuffed. Set aside for now!

— Tail :

Info :

The tail is optional!

Info :

Use 3.00 mm crochet hook. Use main body color. The tail is worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for portion of the tutorial. Make 1. Stuff the tail with poly-fill as you go!

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 6 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (6 sts)

Round 2-28 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (6 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Set tail aside for now!

— Tail Spike :

Info :

Use 2.00 mm crochet hook. Use accent color yarn. The tail spike is worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 1.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 4 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (4 sts)

Round 2 :

{sc, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (6 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 2, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 4 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 3, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 6 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 7 :

Inc, sc, inc, sc 7. (12 sts)

Round 8 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (12 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Flatten the spike. Do not stuff with poly-fill. Take your tapestry needle and sew the tail spike securely in place on the end of your tail. Break yarn and sew in your ends. See image below!

Info :

Your tail is complete! Set it aside for now!

— Body :

Info :

Use 3.00 mm crochet hook. Use main body color. The body is worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 1.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 10 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (10 sts)

Round 2 :

{sc, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (15 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 2, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 4 :

{sc 3, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 4, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (30 sts)

Round 6 :

{sc 5, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (35 sts)

Round 7 :

{sc 6, inc} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (40 sts)

Round 8 :

{sc 6, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (35 sts)

Round 9-11 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (35 sts)

Round 12 :

{sc 5, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (30 sts)

Round 13-14 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (30 sts)

Round 15 :

{sc 4, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 16-17 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (25 sts)

Round 18 :

{sc 3, dec} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Round 19-20 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (20 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Optionally you can use a tapestry needle and embroidery floss/yarn to stitch on a belly button. Gently stuff the body. Set aside for now!

— Arms :

Info :

Use 3.00 mm crochet hook. Use main body color. The arms are worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 2. Stuff the arms with poly-fill as you go!

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 8 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker. (8 sts)

Round 2-22 :

Sc around. Place stitch marker. (8 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Set tail aside for now! See image below!

— Wings :

Info :

Use 2.00 mm crochet hook. Use accent color. Make 2. The wings are worked in rows. You will ch 1 before each new row. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch unless stated otherwise.

Row 1 :

Ch 3. Place 1 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Sc across. (2 sts)

Row 2 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st st of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (4 sts)

Row 3 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (4 sts)

Row 4 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st three sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (6 sts)

Row 5 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (6 sts)

Row 6 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 5 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (8 sts)

Row 7 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (8 sts)

Row 8 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 7 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (10 sts)

Row 9 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (10 sts)

Row 10 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 9 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (12 sts)

Row 11 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (12 sts)

Row 12 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 11 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (14 sts)

Row 13 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (14 sts)

Row 14 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 13 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (16 sts)

Row 15 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (16 sts)

Row 16 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 15 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (18 sts)

Row 17 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (18 sts)

Row 18 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 17 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (20 sts)

Row 19 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (20 sts)

Row 20 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 19 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (22 sts)

Row 21 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo sc across. (22 sts)

Row 22 :

Ch 1 and turn your work. In the blo place 1 sc into the 1st 21 sts of the row. In the blo place 3 sc into the last st of the row. (24 sts)

Info :

Break yarn with a long tail for sewing. Your wing is finished See image below!

Info :

Now it is time to sew the wing onto the arm. I find it helpful to use sewing pins and maybe even a safety pin to hold the wing in place while you sew. See image below on how to pin the wing to the arm!

Info :

You want to take your time while sewing so that your finished wing comes out as desired. When you have completed sewing the wing onto the arm DO NOT break yarn. You will want to use that tail to sew the wing onto the body later during the assemble portion of the tutorial!! See image below!

— Head :

Info :

Use 3.00 mm crochet hook. Use main body color. The head is worked in continuous rounds so you will need a stitch marker for this portion of the tutorial. Make 1.

Round 1 :

Ch 2. Place 6 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Place your stitch marker! (6 sts)

Round 2 :

Inc into each st of the round. Place your stitch marker! (12 sts)

Round 3 :

{sc 1, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (18 sts)

Round 4 :

{sc 2, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (24 sts)

Round 5 :

{sc 3, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (30 sts)

Round 6 :

{sc 4, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (36 sts)

Round 7 :

{sc 5, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (42 sts)

Round 8 :

{sc 6, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (48 sts)

Round 9 :

{sc 7, inc.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (54 sts)

Round 10-17 :

Place 1 sc into each st of the round. Place your stitch marker! (54 sts)

Round 18 :

{sc 7, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (48 sts)

Round 19 :

{sc 6, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (42 sts)

Round 20 :

{sc 5, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (36 sts)

Round 21 :

{sc 4, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (30 sts)

Round 22 :

{sc 3, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (24 sts)

Info :

Place safety eyes between Round 13 & 14. Place safety eyes 8-9 stitches apart. You can use embroidery floss/yarn to stitch on some freckles.

Round 23 :

{sc 2, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (18 sts)

Info :

Firmly stuff your head with polyfill.

Round 24 :

{sc, dec.} Repeat what's inside the { } for the entire round. Place your stitch marker! (12 sts)

Round 25 :

dec around. (6 sts)

Info :

Add more poly-fill if needed! Use a running stitch to close the remaining hole. Break yarn and weave in your ends. See images below!

Assembly Instructions

  • Place safety eyes between Round 13 & 14 of the head, spacing them 8-9 stitches apart; secure washers and optionally stitch freckles with embroidery floss before stuffing the head.
  • Attach ears to the head using the long tail left from finishing the ears; place them on the head where desired and sew securely with a tapestry needle.
  • Sew the tail spike to the end of the tail using a tapestry needle; flatten the spike and do not stuff it before sewing, then break yarn and weave in ends.
  • Sew wings onto the arms using sewing pins to hold them in place; do not break the tail used to attach the wing to the arm so you can use it later to sew the wing to the body during assembly.
  • Use the long tails left on limbs and head to sew parts together; align and pin pieces before final sewing to maintain correct placement and symmetry.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially during continuous rounds and shaping sections.
  • 💡Stuff parts gradually and evenly while shaping; avoid overstuffing which can distort shape, and leave last two rounds of some limbs unstuffed when instructed.
  • 💡Use the invisible decrease method when decreasing in front loops only to avoid bumps and achieve a smooth finish.
  • 💡Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure correct positioning and symmetry and maintain consistent tension while stitching parts together.

This Little Devil amigurumi pattern gives you playful customization and charming details to craft a unique, handmade friend. Make it spooky, sweet, or sparkly with sequins and embroidery for personality. Try different color combinations or add tiny props for storytelling fun. 🧶✨👹

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi size will vary depending on yarn and hook but using the recommended #4 worsted yarn and 3.00 mm hook yields a small handheld doll approximately 8-10 inches tall depending on assembly choices.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size; if you use bulkier yarn choose a larger hook and check your gauge and stuffing to keep proportions correct.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so familiarity with single crochet, increases, decreases, working in BLO and reading continuous round patterns is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time will vary depending on experience level, how many optional details you add, and your working speed.

Are there options for horns, tail, and wings?

Yes, the pattern includes two horn styles, an optional tail with spike, and optional wings worked in rows so you can customize your devil’s look.