Bring Toothless to life with this full-size plush sewing pattern designed for makers who love detailed costume-quality projects. The pattern includes templates for wings, fins, head pieces, tail bands and detailed assembly notes to guide you step-by-step. You will learn how to work with quilt batting, top-stitch wing details, add interchangeable tail fins with bands, and finish a large, display-ready plush. Perfect for cosplay props, displays, or an impressive handmade gift.
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— What you will need :
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Tools: Sewing machine. Fabric scissors and regular scissors. Seam ripper. Pins and needles. Fabric marker that works on black fabric. Optional: an embroidery ring.
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Materials: 3-4 meters/yards of polyester quilt batting. 5 meters or 5-5.5 yards of black fabric. A bit of light brown, red and white fabric for the interchangeable fins. A bit of blue fabric for the back/alpha fins. A spool of 500 meters/547 yards with black sewing thread and small spools of brown, white and red sewing thread. A random color of sewing thread that stands out on black (can be basting thread). Basting thread. Polyester stuffing (example filling of 3 small inner pillows from IKEA). For the eyes a lighter green and a darker green color as well as black and white material for the eyes and embroidery thread. Optional: 500 grams/18 ounces of poly pellets. Tiny magnets for the back/alpha fins. Some sort of snaps, velcro or other materials to fasten the interchangeable tail fins.
— How to print the pattern document :
Step 1 :
Open the pattern document with Adobe Acrobat Reader/Pro DC. If you do not have this program installed yet, you can download it at the Adobe Reader website.
Step 2 :
Once the document is opened, go to Files > Print. In the Print dialog box, click the Poster button in the Page Sizing & Handling section.
Step 3 :
From there, apply the options described below: Tile Scale – Make sure this is on 100% if you want the original pattern size! Overlap – to determine the amount each tile overlaps the adjacent tiles. Cut marks – to add guide marks to each page that help you trim the overlap (Optional). Labels – to add the filename and page number on each separate page (Optional).
Step 4 :
Click the Print button once all set. If you are using a different program where this is possible, you might want to print just the page with the scale on it first to check if it is correct, before printing the whole pattern. You can choose to print in colour or black & white since the pattern document supports both.
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Optional: Rescaling - To create an even bigger or smaller plush use Tile Scale option to resize the pattern by a percentage of your choice; remember to adjust material amounts accordingly.
— Getting to know the pattern document :
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Scale: In the upper right corner there is a scale-square. If both sides are 2 inches in length your print is successful. Direction of fabric hairs: Every pattern piece has an orange arrow indicating alignment on fabric; align for minky or hairy fabrics so the hairs follow a natural direction on the final plush. Seam allowance: Every piece is surrounded by three different lines representing 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 seam allowances; you can choose the included allowances or cut the pieces directly along the pattern piece and add your own allowance.
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Body A: Along the bottom side of the tail in the 'Body A' piece there are blue marks indicating where all the tailfins start and end. There should be space for 'Fin A', 'Fin B' and the small tail fins. Two marks closest to the legs show placement of 'Fin A' and two marks at the end show placement of 'Fin B'.
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Center wing shape: Text along the body wing profile explains it's important to mark this shape onto your fabric before starting to sew since it determines the wing placement in the body. The grey part will be a hole for the shoulder of the wing that is sewn in a circle so the shoulder can be stuffed from the body.
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Wing: The wing has a green line indicating a second edge of the pattern piece with a top piece including the darker part to the right of the green line and a bottom piece that ends after the green line and excludes the darker part. Decorative lines are shown for top-stitching and are also on the Fin A and Fin B pieces.
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Feet: The green lines on the feet indicate the same outside/inside reference as on the wing. Each foot consists of two pieces: an inner and an outer piece; outer pieces include the darker part above the green line and inner pieces do not.
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Tail fin bands: The bands for the interchangeable tail fins have a square with a circle at the end representing the snaps and overlaps that go around the tail.
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Head side: The piece includes text to cut a large square first if you plan to embroider eyes and nose directly so there is enough fabric to fit into an embroidery ring. When using for sewing, the detailed piece can be cut from the square.
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Nails: The nails piece starts as a rectangle; the dashed line is where you sew and it forms 16 nails in sets of 4 so you can cut away excess fabric between nails and cut four sets attached to each other to ease placement at the feet later.
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Skull: The skull is an appliqué and should be cut from white fabric with no seam allowance so it can be top-stitched onto the red fin option.
— Preparing the pieces :
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How to cut the pieces from the fabric: Fold fabric in half with right sides together and cut to get one original and one mirrored piece that fit perfectly. For fabrics with small hairs create a fold that follows hair direction so you do not get two different directions in one leg.
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For pieces with green lines, cut both pieces neglecting the green line at first then cut away the excess of one side before sewing later. Amount of pieces needed: The pattern includes a table listing how many of each pattern piece to cut when fabric is folded; examples include Back fins 2x original and 2x mirrored, Band A 1x (Total 3x) original and 1x mirrored, Body A 1x original and 1x mirrored, Wing 2x original and 2x mirrored, Fin A 2x and Fin B 4x (see pattern table for full list).
— A few tips before sewing :
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Work precisely: Trace original pattern piece (without seam allowance) onto backsides of fabric to know exactly which lines to put together. For difficult parts baste and stitch by hand first then go over with machine.
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Prevent mistakes by double checking: Common mistakes include cutting with wrong fabric direction, folding fabric wrong way, sewing over edges that need to be open, sewing two pieces together while bottom piece is wrinkled, or attaching pieces the wrong way around.
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Prevent movement while sewing: Use basting thread and a needle first for pieces that move a lot, as pins work only when two pieces have same shape and fit perfectly straight on top of each other like wings and fins.
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Keep wrinkles away from your seamline: Opposite round shapes create folds; push folds away from the line where you will sew once under the presser foot to get a smooth seamline.
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Cut away excess seam allowance around sharp corners: Clip and notch seam allowance around corners as close as possible but be careful not to cut too close to the seam to avoid ripping open after flipping.
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Always sew the right sides together: The colored lines in the figures show which seams you need to make; whilst sewing pieces together, always face the wrong side of the fabric out.
— Part 1: The head :
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Eyes & Nose: There are many ways to create eyes and nose. Embroidery by hand yields good results. You can also use fabric or paint if you do not embroider.
Step 1 :
Spikes & Ears - Step 1: For the spikes take two pieces, one original and one mirrored, and sew them right sides together leaving the end that attaches to the head open. Sew along the orange lines shown in the figure once pieces are on top of each other with right sides together.
Step 2 :
Spikes & Ears - Step 2: For the ears, start by taking the three back pieces of the ear. Sew both the left and the right piece to the center piece as shown in the figure; since you sew right sides together the pieces will bend in opposite directions. Pay attention to wrinkles when sewing.
Step 3 :
Spikes & Ears - Step 3: Once back piece of the ear is complete take the front piece and sew the front and back pieces right sides together. They should fit on top of each other and lay fairly flat. Sew along the orange line shown in the figure.
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Tip: Mark each ear when done to tell left and right apart after sewing.
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Assembly of the head - Parts needed: Ears, Head back, Head sides (including eyes & nose), Head top, Spikes (Side, top & head).
Step 1 :
Start by taking the two side pieces and cutting them in the shape of the actual pattern piece. Put them right sides together and sew along the shortest edge as shown in the figure.
Step 2 :
Next, take the top pieces and sew them right sides together with the head spikes in between. Make sure spikes are trimmed and turned right sides out before sewing them in between. Align the row of spikes so they seem to stand apart and sew along the line as drawn, preferably a few millimeters more towards the left than the right.
Step 3 :
As the top of the head is ready you can sew it to the completed side pieces (see figure on the right).
Step 4 :
Take the back piece and sew that to the edges of the top and side of the head leaving the holes for the ears and spikes open. Only sew the little lines that create holes for the ears and top spikes as shown.
Step 5 :
Take the ears and top spikes and sew them right sides together to the head. To ensure correct ear orientation turn them so the right sides are out and line up inner side of the ear to corresponding inner side of the head so the front of the ear attaches to the head top piece. Sew in a circle so ears and spikes can be stuffed together with the head. For small spikes you may sew by hand if difficult on the machine.
Step 6 :
For the side spikes they need to be partly sewn between the side and head back pieces. Line them up right sides together and sew the remaining parts of the head back piece to the head side pieces with the spikes in between. Leave holes for the two biggest side spikes unsewn so they can be stuffed from the head later.
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When you have attached both ears and spikes the outer edge of the 'Head back' piece should be fully attached; preparation of the head is finished.
— Part 2: Wings and fins :
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How to work with polyester quilt batting: Use polyester quilt batting to create firmer wings with beautiful detailing. For this pattern a double layer of the thickest type was used. A medium thickness keeps tailfins flexible; thicker batting gives more depth but can be harder to top-stitch without bulging. Cutting both fabric pieces and batting to fit perfectly is important.
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Table of batting layers: Back fins 1 layer; Fin A 2 layers; Fin B 2 layers; Fin foot 1 layer; Small tail fins 1 layer; Wing 2 layers.
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How to add detail: Use a random color of sewing thread that stands out, or basting thread, to trace guideline lines by hand or by machine. For double lines make one guideline and then sew the second line next to it using the foot as a guide for distance between lines.
Step 1 :
Sewing the wings - To make a wing make sure an original and mirrored wing piece are laying right sides together on top of the quilt batting. Sew around the edges as shown leaving open the edge that will be attached to the body later.
Step 2 :
Flip the wing so the right sides are out and start sewing the guidelines by hand. Then go over with the sewing machine. The orange lines in the figures show where to top-stitch the wing to create the decorative lines.
Step 3 :
Repeat the same process for the other wing.
Step 4 :
Sewing the fins - Back fins: Split all pieces into two sets each consisting of a blue and black fabric piece and a single layered quilt batting piece. When pieces lay down as the original pattern one should have the blue piece on top and the other the black piece so you get left and right back fins with blue on the inside. Sew along the edge of each piece.
Step 5 :
Before flipping right sides out place or glue your magnets at the top corners of the fins on the blue fabric so that magnets of left and right piece will bring the blue inner sides together. When magnets are secured trim and turn the pieces.
Step 6 :
Small tail fins: For side tail fins take two fabric pieces and one piece of single layered batting and sew along the outer edge. Trim excess fabric in the corners and flip right sides out.
Step 7 :
Fin A: This fin is done the same way as the wings. Put two pieces right sides together on top of the quilt batting, sew around edges leaving open the edge that will attach to the body later, flip so right sides are out and add detail by using guidelines and the sewing machine.
Step 8 :
Fin B: Follow the same method for the brown and black 'Fins B' pieces.
Step 9 :
For the red interchangeable tail fin, take the white skull appliqué first. Top-stitch with a zig-zag stitch on the original 'Fin B' piece (not the mirrored one).
Step 10 :
Put the piece with the appliqué back in place with the quilt batting and the mirrored piece and sew them together like other fins. Flip right sides out and just sew over the skull when adding detail.
Step 11 :
Take all the 'Bands A, B & C' pieces. The black interchangeable fin will get black bands, brown and red fins will get brown bands. Start by taking all 'Bands B' and 'Bands C' and sew them right sides together leaving the left edge open.
Step 12 :
Turn the bands right sides out. If you want to install buttons/snaps partly from the inside do this now.
Step 13 :
Take two 'Band B' and two 'Band C' parts and place them between the 'Band A' pieces as shown. Sew along the outer edges (top, bottom and right) of 'Band A'.
Step 14 :
Flip the Band A piece right sides out and put it around the open edge of 'Fin B'. Fold seam allowance inwards on both sides and top-stitch the left side of 'Band A' into place.
Step 15 :
Repeat steps 13 and 14 for the other two 'Fins B'. The wings and fins are now ready to continue to the next part.
— Part 3: Legs :
Step 1 :
Preparing the nails: Sew one line to create nails on their pattern piece. Draw the line on the fabric first, cut into sets of four and trim away extra fabric around nails except for horizontal edges which need allowance.
Step 2 :
Preparing the fins (front legs): Take two pieces, put them right sides together on top of quilt batting and sew around the outer edge. Trim allowance on outer sides. Repeat for the other front leg fin.
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Assembly of the legs - Parts needed: Fins Foot, Foot (bottom pieces), Front Legs, Hips, Nails, Rear Legs.
Step 3 :
Start by sewing the Front Legs right sides together, placing the fin piece in between so that the right sides of the fins are against the right sides of the leg and the fin piece is inside the leg. Leave the bottom part and 'outside' part open.
Step 4 :
Take the bottom pieces 'Foot'. Sew these right sides together to the bottom of the legs with the point facing to the back of the leg. Place the nails in between the two pieces following the same method used for fins pointing nails inside the leg. Place them so you are sewing over the ends of every nail again, not over the allowance, to give nails attached to each other.
This Toothless plush pattern walks you through building a large, detailed dragon with wings, fins, and interchangeable tail options. It includes templates, batting recommendations, and construction tips for a firm, display-ready finish. Perfect for costume props, gifts, or collectors who love handmade characters. 🧶🖤
