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Virelle Mandala Pattern

Virelle Mandala Pattern
4.4★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Virelle Mandala Pattern

This pattern creates the Virelle mandala — a detailed, textured crochet mandala designed to be displayed in a hoop or blocked as wall art. It features front-post and back-post stitches, cluster stitches, shells, and optional beads for a refined finish. The pattern includes charts and step-by-step instructions to help you follow each round.

Virelle Mandala Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for intermediate crocheters who enjoy texture and shaping, this mandala uses Cotton DK and a 2.5 mm hook for crisp stitch definition. Beads and blocking create a polished look, but both are optional for a simpler finish.

Why You'll Love This Virelle Mandala Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the layering of front-post and back-post stitches creates beautiful depth and dimensionality that really comes alive when blocked. I enjoy the meditative rhythm of the repeating leaf and shell motifs — it feels relaxing and rewarding as the mandala grows. The optional beads add a subtle, elegant sparkle that makes the finished piece look professionally finished. I also love that the pattern includes charts and clear notes so I can visually track progress and share helpful tips with other makers.

Virelle Mandala Pattern step 1 - construction progress Virelle Mandala Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Virelle Mandala Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Virelle Mandala Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily this mandala adapts to different yarns and colors; try using variegated DK for subtle color shifts or a gradient yarn for a dramatic ombre effect.

If you want a larger piece, I change to a slightly thicker yarn and a larger hook, then block to a bigger hoop for a bold statement piece.

To create a softer, more romantic look, I often swap the wooden beads for pearl beads or tiny glass beads to add subtle shine.

I sometimes make several smaller mandalas and group them in a cluster on the wall for a modern gallery-style display.

Experiment with color placement by using a contrasting color for selected rounds to highlight the leaf or shell motifs and increase visual interest.

For a boho vibe, I attach tassels or macrame fringe to the bottom of the hoop after mounting the mandala.

Try stitching the mandala onto fabric and framing it instead of a hoop for an alternative display option that works great in shelves or framed galleries.

I also enjoy adding a hanging loop made from braided yarn at the top of the hoop to create a neat, finished hanging solution.

If you prefer an easier make, skip the bead rounds and simplify post stitch clusters into standard dc groups to reduce complexity while keeping the shape.

Don't be afraid to mix fibers — a cotton-silk blend gives a gentle sheen and drape, while 100% cotton gives crisp stitch definition ideal for blocking and display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Working in the wrong loop (front vs back) will distort the leaf shapes; always double-check the row note indicating 'front loops only' or 'back loops only' before starting the row. ✗ Skipping stitch counts during repeating sections can lead to misalignment in the mandala; mark the start of each repeat and count stitches at the end of the round to ensure accuracy. ✗ Pulling post stitches too tight makes the fabric pucker and the motif lose definition; insert and pull consistently and give each post stitch enough room to sit on the surface. ✗ Adding beads before finishing and blocking can make placement awkward and uneven; sew beads onto the center after the mandala is finished and blocked as recommended in the pattern.

Virelle Mandala Pattern

Create a delicate, lacy mandala perfect for wall display or a decorative hoop. This pattern guides you through front-post and back-post stitches, shells, clusters, and optional bead accents so you can craft a stunning textured piece. You will enjoy the step-by-step instructions, charts, and helpful tips to make your own Virelle Mandala.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Virelle Mandala Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton DK (recommended), approx 800 meters total, main color 'Glass' from 'Budget Yarn' used by the designer
  • 02
    Optional wooden beads: 10 mm, 12 mm and 15 mm (each size 8 pieces)
  • 03
    70 cm ring or blocking materials for finishing and stretching the mandala

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (US size C)
  • 02
    Scissors
  • 03
    Tapestry needle
  • 04
    Optional: wooden beads (10 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm)
  • 05
    70 cm ring or blocking board and pins for blocking
  • 06
    Stitch markers (optional for marking repeats)

Progress Tracker

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— Mandala :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring. Chain 3 (counts as dc), and work 11 dc in the ring. Slst in 3rd chain.

Round 2 :

In this row: front loops only. You work in the front loops from row 1. In every stitch (so also in the slst from row 1): slst, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, slst. End with a slst in the first chain from this row. You have 12 leaves.

Round 3 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops of row 1. Slst in next. Chain 3 (counts as dc), dc in same. *2 dc in every stitch.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You now have a total of 24 dc.

Round 4 :

In this row: front loops only. You're working in the front loops of row 3. *In next stitch: [slst, ch 2, dcl. In the next: [dc, ch 2 and slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Round 5 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops of row 3. Slst in next. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same. 1 dc in next. *2 dc in next, 1 dc in next.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You have 36 dc.

Round 6 :

In this row: work in the front loops only. You're working in the front loops of row 5. *In next: [slst, ch 2, dc]. In next: 2 tr. In next: [dc, ch 2, slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Round 7 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops from row 5. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next, 2 dc in next. *2 dc (1 in each), 2 dc in next.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. You now have 48 dc.

Round 8 :

In this row: front loops only. You're working in the front loops from row 7. *In next: [slst, ch 2, dc]. In next: 2 tr. In next: 2 tr. In next: [dc, ch 2, slst].* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in the first chain from the beginning of this row. You have 12 leaves.

Round 9 :

In this row: back loops only. You're working in the back loops from row 7. Slst in next. Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc (1 in each). In next 2 dc (so 2 dc in 1). *3 dc (1 in each), 2 dc in 1.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row. You have a total of 60 dc.

Round 10 :

Ch 1, sc in same st. Crochet 3 more sc and then 2 sc in next (2 in 1). *4 sc, 2 sc in next st.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. You now have 72 sts. Skip ch and end with slst in first sc.

Round 11 :

Ch 1, sc in same st. Crochet 3 more sc, in next: [1 sc, ch 3, 1 sc]. *8 sc, in the next: [1 sc, 3 ch, and 1 sc].* Repeat instructions between * and # until the end of the row. You have 4 sts left at the end of the row; 1 sc in each. Skip the chain from the beginning of this row, end with a slst in the first sc.

Round 12 :

2 slst, ch 3. dc in next. Then ch 1, in the chain space: [1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc]. Ch 1, skip 1 st. *3 dc, ch 1, fp-dc in next 2 sts (insert hook in the next stitch, to the back side, and to the front again through the next), ch 1, 3 dc. Ch 1, skip 1 st, in the chain space: [1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc]. Ch 1, skip 1 st.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Then work: 3 dc, ch 1, fp-dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, 1 dc, and end with slst in the 3rd ch.

Info :

The yellow circle shows in which sc you need to work the fp-dc.

Round 13 :

Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Ch 2, skip 1 st, fp-dc in dc. 8 dc in chain space, fp-dc in dc. Ch 2, skip 1 st. 2 dc. Chain 1, fp-dc, ch 1. 2 dc.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with a ch 2, skip 1 st, 2 dc, chain 1, fp-dc, ch 1, dc. Then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 14 :

2 slst. Then fp-slst in the fp-dc from the previous row, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Work another fp-dc in the same st. 8 dc. 2 fp-dc in 1. Ch 1. Skip 1 st. *1 dc, ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, 1 dc. Skip 1 st. Ch 1, 2 fp-dc in 1. 8 dc. 2 fp-dc in 1. Ch 1, skip 1 st.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with 1 dc, ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, then work slst in the 3rd ch.

Round 15 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). 2 fp-dc in next. Sc between 1st and 2nd dc's. Then ch 1, and work a sc between the next two dc's. Repeat this until you have a total of 7 sc with a chain between each of the sc's. 2 fp-dc in 1, fp-dc. *ch 2, skip 1 st, fp-dc in fp-dc from previous row, skip 1 st, ch 2. Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Work a sc between the 1st and 2nd dc's, chain 1, sc between next two stitches. You have 7 sc with a ch between each sc. 2 fp-dc in 1, fp-dc.* Repeat instructions from * until the end of the row. End with a fp-dc and ch 2, then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 16 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in next ch-1 space, chain 1, and repeat this until the end of the shell (so 6 sc and 5 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each). *ch 1, fp-dc in fp-dc from previous row, ch 1. 2 fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in ch-1 space, chain 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat until end of the shell (so 6 sc and 5 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, then 2 fp-dc (1 in each).* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. After the last leaf, you end with a ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, and slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 17 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Then 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. 1 sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat (5 sc and 4 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 3 fp-dc (1 in each). *ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1. 3 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. 1 sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat (5 sc and 4 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 3 fp-dc (1 in each).* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 1, fp-dc, ch 1, and then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 18 :

Fp-slst, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). 3 fp-dc (1 in each). 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat (4 sc and 3 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 2, fp-dc, ch 2. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space, repeat (4 sc and 3 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 2, fp-dc, ch 2, and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row + the next fp-dc (this way you 'crochet them together').

Round 19 :

2 slst (1 in each). Fp-slst in next, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, repeat (3 sc and 2 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 2. In next: [fp-dc, ch 1, fp-dc]. ch 2, fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in ch-1 space (so 3 sc and 2 chains in total). 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with: in next [fp-dc, ch 1, fp-dc]. Ch 2, fp-dc2tog (you work in the ch 3 + the next fp-dc from the previous row, and the next fp-dc). Slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 20 :

Fp-slst in next fp-dc, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc in next, 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space. 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 2, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), 2 fp-dc in 1. Sc in ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space. 2 fp-dc in 1, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 2, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. fp-dc2tog, slst in 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 21 :

Fp-slst in next fp-dc, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc2tog (skip the space with sc's and chains). 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3, dc in chain space, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. fp-dc2tog, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog (skip the space with the sc's and chains), 2 fp-dc (1 in each), fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3, dc in ch space, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 22 :

Fp-slst in same (the beginning chain from the previous row), ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). Fp-dc in the fp-dc2tog from the previous row (you insert in the top loops as shown in the picture). Fp-dc in next. Fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Clst in first chain space, ch 4, clst in second chain space. Ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, 3 fp-dc (1 in each, the second one goes in the fp-dc2tog from the previous row, where you insert through the loops in the top as shown in the picture). Then a fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a clst, ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3 and fp-dc2tog. Then a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 23 :

Fp-slst in next, ch 3 (counts as fp-dc). You start in the center of the leaf. Fp-dc2tog. *ch 3, 2 fp-dc (1 in each), ch 3. 2 fp-dc in clst from previous row (you insert from front to the back side, and going behind the clst, you go to the front again). Ch 5, 2 fp-dc in next clst from previous row (same instructions as before). Ch 3, 2 fp-dc in 1, ch 3. Fp-dc2tog, fp-dc, fp-dc2tog.* Repeat instructions between * until the end of the row. End with a fp-dc2tog and a slst in the 3rd chain from the beginning of this row.

Round 24 :

Work a slst in the fp-dc2tog and the 3 chains (so 1 slst in each) and in the next fp-dc. *To make a heart shape, you follow these instructions: You have 4 fp-dc in total to work

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the optional beads to the center of the mandala after the mandala is finished and blocked; use a tapestry needle and matching thread and secure each bead with multiple passes to prevent loosening.
  • Block the mandala to a 70 cm ring or blocking board, stretching evenly and pinning the outer edge to maintain round shape before attaching to the ring.
  • Attach the mandala to the 70 cm ring by stitching through the outermost loops and the ring with matching yarn using a whipstitch; make sure to space stitches evenly to avoid wrinkles.
  • If using beads on the outer motifs, place and pin them after blocking to check spacing, then sew securely in the same manner as the center beads.
  • Weave in all ends neatly on the back of the mandala using a tapestry needle and trim excess yarn after securing to prevent unraveling.

Important Notes

  • 💡The beads in the center of the mandala are sewn on after the mandala is finished; follow the bead placement description at the end of the pattern.
  • 💡Beads are optional; if you prefer to work without beads, simply work a normal dc (or fp-dc) instead of a 'dc with bead'.
  • 💡If you find this pattern difficult, a video version is available for extra help; check the designer's listing for the 'video only' resource.
  • 💡There are charts in this pattern; the previous rows are shown as light grey so the top row in the chart is always the current row.

This Virelle Mandala pattern offers a beautiful blend of textured stitches and optional bead details to create a stunning wall hanging. The step-by-step rounds and charts make following the design manageable, while blocking and beads add a polished finish. Whether you display it in a hoop or on the wall, this piece brings handcrafted elegance to any room. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished mandala is designed to be blocked to approximately a 70 cm ring when using the recommended Cotton DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Can I use a different yarn or hook size?

Yes, you can change yarn weight and hook size, but this will affect the final size and drape; adjust the hoop size or blocking accordingly and check gauge with a small swatch.

Are the beads required for this mandala?

No, beads are optional; the pattern provides instructions for crochet with beads and explains how to substitute a regular dc or fp-dc if you prefer not to use beads.

Do I need advanced skills to follow this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses front-post and back-post stitches, clusters, and chart reading; basic experience with these techniques or willingness to reference the stitch explanations is recommended.