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3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern
4.8★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a 3in1 Ice Dragon baby blanket with a removable dragon—complete with head, horns, lids (eyelids), legs, toes, tail and wings. It combines amigurumi shaping techniques for the dragon parts with a textured lattice leaf blanket worked in alternating stripes. The pattern uses DK/light yarn and multiple hook sizes for detail and structure.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will crochet 22 separate parts then assemble them onto the blanket for a fully finished keepsake. Detailed rounds, short-row instructions and photo guidance are included to help you follow each step.

Why You'll Love This 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it marries a classic baby blanket with a fun amigurumi dragon, making it both decorative and playful. I enjoy the texture created by the leaf clusters and the contrast of the pale blue, turquoise and white stripes. I also love the sculpted features — horns, lids and toes — which give the dragon so much personality. The step-by-step photos and clear round-by-round instructions make stitching the pieces satisfying and enjoyable for intermediate crocheters.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how you can customize this pattern to make it uniquely yours. Try swapping the color palette to pastels for a softer, nursery-friendly look or to brights for a playful nursery accent.

If you want a smaller or larger finished blanket, change the yarn weight and hook size; bulky yarn with a larger hook will create a chunkier, cuddlier blanket while a finer yarn will produce a delicate, smaller version.

I often add embroidered facial details or felt accents to the eye whites for extra expression—experiment with small changes in the placement of eyes and lids to completely change the dragon's personality.

Want a non-removable dragon? Sew the head and wings directly to the blanket for a decorative applique-style toy that stays attached during washing.

Try mixing yarn textures for the leaf clusters—swap a fluffy boucle or chenille yarn for White in alternate rows to create a plush tactile contrast that babies will love to touch.

For holiday versions, change the color sequence and make a matching hat for the dragon head; you can also add tiny scarves or removable accessories using leftover yarn.

I also like to adjust the wing size and bone length for different looks—longer bones make more majestic wings, while shorter bones give a cute, compact appearance.

If you want posable limbs, consider adding thin wire inside the legs or tail before finishing the stuffing to allow creative display poses.

Try creating a mini keychain version of the dragon by using fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook for adorable tiny companions and gift tags.

Don't forget to personalize with initials or small hearts added to the blanket border for a truly one-of-a-kind gift; I often add a contrasting color in the final border round to frame the blanket beautifully.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during round work can cause you to lose track of the beginning of the round; place a marker at the end of each round to avoid miscounts. ✗ Not stuffing limbs evenly results in lumpy or misshapen legs and horns; stuff little by little and check the shape as you go to maintain smooth curves. ✗ Carrying yarn poorly during color changes will create bulky joins; carry the unused color neatly along the wrong side or cut and weave in ends for a cleaner finish. ✗ Forgetting to check stitch counts after increases or decreases leads to incorrect shaping; always count stitches at the end of each round to ensure accuracy.

3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

Make a delightful 3in1 Ice Dragon baby blanket that doubles as a cuddly dragon companion. This pattern combines a textured lattice baby blanket with a removable amigurumi dragon head, legs, tail, wings and horns for extra play value. You will enjoy creating soft color-stripe rows, leaf motifs, and sculpted amigurumi pieces with step-by-step rounds and photo guidance. Perfect as a special baby gift or keepsake that blends blanket comfort with a playful dragon friend.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for 3in1 Ice Dragon Baby Blanket Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Marriner Yarns DK (Light) - Length: 300m per 100g ball
  • 02
    Turquoise (DK) - approximately 3.5 x 100g balls
  • 03
    Pale Blue (DK) - approximately 2.5 x 100g balls
  • 04
    White (DK) - approximately 2.5 x 100g balls
  • 05
    Note: amounts may vary depending on tension and gauge; make all pieces before constructing the blanket to ensure you have sufficient yarn.

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4mm
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 3.5mm
  • 04
    18mm blue doll safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 05
    Toy stuffing (polyester fiberfill)
  • 06
    Tapestry needle for sewing pieces
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Blocking board or interlocking play mat (optional)
  • 10
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

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— The Pattern :

Info :

The dragon baby blanket is made out of 22 parts: 1 x head. 2 x upper eyelids. 2 x lower eyelids. 2 x eye whites. 2 x horns. 4 x legs. 1 x tail. 2 x wing membrane. 2 x wing bones. 1 x blanket. 3 x buttons with loops.

Info :

The number at the end of each round is the number of stitches you should have.

Info :

The body parts are crocheted in the round, without turning or closing the round. Use a piece of yarn or an stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Info :

With Turquoise and a 4mm crochet hook, ch6. Round 1: 3sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3ch, 3sc in the last ch, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 3ch = 12

Round 2 :

inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts, inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts = 18

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (inc, sc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 24

Round 4 :

(sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 30

Round 5 :

(sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 36

Round 6 :

sc in next 31sts, bo, sc in next 4sts = 36

Round 7 :

sc in next 4sts, bo, sc in next 31sts = 36

Rounds 8 - 19 :

sc in each stitch = 36 (12 rounds)

Round 20 :

inc in next 5sts, sc in next 31sts = 41

Round 21 :

(sc, inc) x 5, sc in next 31sts = 46

Round 22 :

inc, sc in next 13sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 48

Round 23 :

sc in next 2sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 51

Round 24 :

(inc, sc in next 16sts) x 3 = 54

Round 25 :

(inc, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 57

Rounds 26 - 33 :

sc in each stitch = 57 (8 rounds)

Round 34 :

(dec, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 54

Round 35 :

(dec, sc in next 7sts) x 6 = 48

Round 36 :

(dec, sc in next 6sts) x 6 = 42

Round 37 :

(dec, sc in next 5sts) x 6 = 36

Round 38 :

(dec, sc in next 4sts) x 6 = 30

Round 39 :

(dec, sc in next 3sts) x 6 = 24

Round 40 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 6 = 18

Round 41 :

(dec, sc in the next st) x 6 = 12

Info :

Fasten off, close the hole left and weave in the ends.

— The Head :

Info :

Crochet in the round, without turning or closing the rounds, using a piece of yarn or a stitch marker to mark the end of each round.

Info :

With Turquoise and a 4mm crochet hook, ch6. Round 1: 3sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3ch, 3sc in the last ch, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 3ch = 12

Round 2 :

inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts, inc in next 3sts, sc in next 3sts = 18

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (inc, sc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 24

Round 4 :

(sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 2sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 30

Round 5 :

(sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts, (sc in next 3sts, inc) x 3, sc in next 3sts = 36

Round 6 :

sc in next 31sts, bo, sc in next 4sts = 36

Round 7 :

sc in next 4sts, bo, sc in next 31sts = 36

Rounds 8 - 19 :

sc in each stitch = 36 (12 rounds)

Round 20 :

inc in next 5sts, sc in next 31sts = 41

Round 21 :

(sc, inc) x 5, sc in next 31sts = 46

Round 22 :

inc, sc in next 13sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 48

Round 23 :

sc in next 2sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 6sts, inc, sc in next 31sts = 51

Round 24 :

(inc, sc in next 16sts) x 3 = 54

Round 25 :

(inc, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 57

Rounds 26 - 33 :

sc in each stitch = 57 (8 rounds)

Round 34 :

(dec, sc in next 17sts) x 3 = 54

Round 35 :

(dec, sc in next 7sts) x 6 = 48

Round 36 :

(dec, sc in next 6sts) x 6 = 42

Round 37 :

(dec, sc in next 5sts) x 6 = 36

Round 38 :

(dec, sc in next 4sts) x 6 = 30

Round 39 :

(dec, sc in next 3sts) x 6 = 24

Round 40 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 6 = 18

Round 41 :

(dec, sc in the next st) x 6 = 12

Info :

Fasten off, close the hole left and weave in the ends.

— The Lower Lids :

Info :

Work in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the end of the round.

Info :

Make 2 using Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Rounds 2 & 3 :

sc in each stitch = 4

Round 4 :

(inc, sc) x 2 = 6

Rounds 5 & 6 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 7 :

(inc, sc in next 2sts) x 2 = 8

Rounds 8 - 12 :

sc in each stitch = 8 (5 rounds)

Round 13 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 2 = 6

Rounds 14 & 15 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Info :

Fasten off, close the hole and leave a long tail. The lids are not stuffed.

— The Upper Lids :

Info :

Make 2 using Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1 :

ch15, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 13ch = 14

Info :

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

Info :

Make 2 using White and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Row 1 :

ch2, 3sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, turn = 3

Row 2 :

sc in each 3sts, turn = 3

Row 3 :

inc, sc, inc, turn = 5

Row 4 :

sc in each sts, turn = 5

Row 5 :

inc, sc, inc in next 3 sts, inc, turn = 7

Rows 6 - 8 :

sc in each sts, turn = 7

Row 9 :

dec, sc in next 3sts, dec, turn = 5

Row 10 :

sc in each sts, turn = 5

Row 11 :

dec, sc, dec = 3

Row 12 :

sc3tog = 1

Info :

Fasten off, leave a long tail.

— The Horns :

Info :

Except for the Short Rows, the horns are crocheted in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 2 using White and a 4mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 2 = 6

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 4 :

(sc in next 2sts, inc) x 2 = 8

Round 5 :

sc in each stitch = 8

Round 6 :

(sc in next 3sts, inc) x 2 = 10

Rounds 7 & 8 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Row 9 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 5sts, turn = 5

Row 10 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 5sts, turn = 5

Round 11 :

sc in next 5sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 5sts of round 8 = 10

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Round 13 :

(sc in next 4sts, inc) x 2 = 12

Round 14 :

sc in each stitch = 12

Round 15 :

(sc in next 5sts, inc) x 2 = 14

Round 16 :

sc in each stitch = 14

Round 17 :

(sc in next 6sts, inc) x 2 = 16

Round 18 :

sc in each stitch = 16

Round 19 :

sc in next 16sts, continue to single crochet in next 9sts = 16

Info :

We are moving the starting stitch by 9sts forward, the stitch count remains the same, but the start of the round moved to the other side. Mark the last sc you made as the last in the round and continue with the next round from there.

Row 20 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 8sts, turn = 8

Row 21 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 8sts, turn = 8

Round 22 :

sc in next 8sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 8sts of round 19 = 16

Round 23 :

(sc in next 7sts, inc) x 2 = 18

Round 24 :

sc in each stitch = 18

Row 25 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 9sts, turn = 9

Row 26 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 9sts, turn = 9

Round 27 :

sc in next 9sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 9sts of round 24 = 18

Round 28 :

(sc in next 8sts, inc) x 2 = 20

Row 29 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 10sts, turn = 10

Row 30 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 10sts, turn = 10

Round 31 :

sc in next 10sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 10sts of round 28 = 20

Round 32 :

(sc in next 9sts, inc) x 2 = 22

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch = 22

Row 34 Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 11sts, turn = 11

Row 35 Short Rows (WS) :

sc in next 11sts, turn = 11

Rounds 36 & 37 :

sc in next 11sts of the previous short row, sc in the next 11sts of round 33 = 22

Rounds 38 & 39 :

sc in each stitch = 24 then fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff the horn firmly.

— The Legs :

Info :

Except for the Short Rows, the legs are crocheted in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 4 using Turquoise & White and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Info :

The 3 toes are crocheted separately and later joined to continue with the foot.

— The Toes :

Info :

With White, make a magic ring. Round 1: 4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4. Rounds 2 & 3: sc in each stitch = 4. Round 4: inc, sc in next 3sts = 5. Change colors to Turquoise and cut the white yarn.

Round 5 :

inc, sc in next 6sts = 8

Round 6 :

(inc, sc in next 3sts) x 2 = 10

Round 7 :

(inc, sc in next 4sts) x 2 = 12

Round 8 :

(inc, sc in next 5sts) x 2 = 14

Info :

Make 3 toes. Fasten off the yarn on 2 toes, but leave the yarn attached on one toe.

— Joining The Toes :

Round 9 :

Pick up Toe 1 & Toe 2, sc in the next 7sts of Toe 2, sc in the next 14sts of Toe 3, sc in next 7sts of Toe 2, sc in next 14sts of Toe 1 = 42

— The Foot & Leg :

Round 10 :

(dec, sc in next 19sts) x 2 = 40

Round 11 :

(dec, sc in next 18sts) x 2 = 38

Round 12 :

(dec, sc in next 17sts) x 2 = 36

Round 13 :

(dec, sc in next 16sts) x 2 = 34

Round 14 :

sc in next 12sts (continue from this point with short rows 14A-14E)

14A - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14B - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14C - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14D - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 16sts, turn = 16

14E - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 16sts = 16

Info :

(continue from this point with row 14), sc4tog along the edge of the short rows (see tutorial below), sc in next 5sts = 34

Note :

To crochet sc4tog, pull 4 loops along the edge of the short rows and round 13, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Instruction :

Insert your hook in Short Row 14D, yo and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). Insert your hook in Short Row 14B, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Insert your hook in the last worked stitch of round 13, yo and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).

Round 15 :

sc in next 11sts, sc4tog [just like the sc4tog from round 14, but in reverse - 1 loop in the next stitch (stitch unworked on round 14), 1 loop in the next stitch (stitch already worked in on round 14), 1 loop in the Short Row 14B and 1 loop in Short Row 14D], sc in next 22sts = 34

Round 16 :

sc in each sts = 34

Round 17 :

sc in next 13sts (continue from this point with short rows 17A-17E)

17A - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17B - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17C - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17D - Short Row (WS) :

sc in next 17sts, turn = 17

17E - Short Row (RS) :

sc in next 17sts = 17

Info :

(continue from this point with row 17), sc4tog along the edge of the short rows (see tutorial below), sc in next 3sts = 34

Round 18 :

sc in next 12sts, sc4tog (1 loop in 17D, 1 loop in 17B, 1 loop in last worked stitch of round 17, 1 loop in the first unworked stitch of round 17), sc in next 21sts = 34

Round 19 :

sc in next 13sts, (dec, sc in next 3sts) x 4, sc = 30

Round 20 :

sc in each sts = 30

Round 21 :

(dec, sc in next 3sts) x 6 = 24

Round 22 :

(inc, sc in next 11sts) x 2 = 26

Round 23 :

(inc, sc in next 12sts) x 2 = 28

Round 24 :

(inc, sc in next 13sts) x 2 = 30

Rounds 25 & 26 :

sc in each sts = 30

Round 27 :

inc, sc in next 29sts = 31

Rounds 28 & 29 :

sc in each sts = 31

Round 30 :

sc in next 15sts, inc, sc in next 15sts = 32

Rounds 31 & 32 :

sc in each sts = 32

Info :

Start filling up the leg. Don't over fill or stretch the stitches.

Round 33 :

inc, sc in next 31sts = 33

Rounds 34 & 35 :

sc in each sts = 33

Round 36 :

sc in next 16sts, inc, sc in next 16sts = 34

Rounds 37 & 38 :

sc in each sts = 34

Round 39 :

(dec, sc in next 15sts) x 2 = 32

Round 40 :

(dec, sc in next 6sts) x 4 = 28

Round 41 :

(dec, sc in next 5sts) x 4 = 24

Round 42 :

(dec, sc in next 2sts) x 6 = 18

Round 43 :

(dec, sc) x 6 = 12

Info :

Finish filling up the leg with toy stuffing. Fill the leg part lightly and flatten it slightly. Fasten off and leave a long tail.

— The Tail :

Info :

Work in the round, without turning, using a piece of yarn or a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make 1 with Turquoise and a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 4sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 4

Round 2 :

inc, sc in next 3sts = 5

Rounds 3 & 4 :

sc in each stitch = 5

Round 5 :

inc, sc in next 4sts = 6

Rounds 6 & 7 :

sc in each stitch = 6

Round 8 :

inc, sc in next 5sts = 7

Rounds 9 & 10 :

sc in each stitch = 7

Round 11 :

inc, sc in next 6sts = 8

Rounds 12 & 13 :

sc in each stitch = 8

Round 14 :

inc, sc in next 7sts = 9

Rounds 15 & 16 :

sc in each stitch = 9

Round 17 :

inc, sc in next 8sts = 10

Rounds 18 & 19 :

sc in each stitch = 10

Round 20 :

inc, sc in next 9sts = 11

Rounds 21 & 22 :

sc in each stitch = 11

Round 23 :

inc, sc in next 10sts = 12

Rounds 24 & 25 :

sc in each stitch = 12

Round 26 :

inc, sc in next 11sts = 13

Rounds 27 & 28 :

sc in each stitch = 13

Round 29 :

inc, sc in next 12sts = 14

Rounds 30 & 31 :

sc in each stitch = 14

Round 32 :

inc, sc in next 13sts = 15

Rounds 33 & 34 :

sc in each stitch = 15

Round 35 :

inc, sc in next 14sts = 16

Rounds 36 - 38 :

sc in each stitch = 16

Round 39 :

inc, sc in next 15sts = 17

Rounds 40 - 42 :

sc in each stitch = 17

Round 43 :

inc, sc = 18 then continue as needed until shaping tapered tail point; finish stuffing and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

— The Wings :

Info :

Each wing is formed out of 2 parts: 1 x wing bone and 1 x wing membrane.

— The Wing Membrane :

Info :

The wing membranes are crocheted with Turquoise and Pale Blue colors, using a 4mm crochet hook. Make 2 pieces. Start with Pale Blue.

Row 1 :

ch15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc in next 11chs, turn = 14

Row 2 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 9sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 16

Row 3 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 11sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 18

Row 4 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 13sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 5 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 15sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 22

Info :

Change colors to Turquoise (don't cut the Pale Blue yarn, just carry it over to the next color change).

Row 6 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): ch1, sc in all 22sts, ch1, turn = 22

Row 7 :

sc in next 2sts, hdc in next 20sts, turn = 22

Info :

Change colors to Pale Blue and cut the Turquoise yarn.

Row 8 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 9 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 13sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 18

Row 10 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 11sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 16

Row 11 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 9sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 14

Row 12 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): 3dc in next sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, dc in next 9sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 17

Row 13 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn = 20

Row 14 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): 3dc in next sts, 2dc in next st, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 23

Row 15 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 18sts, 2dc in next st, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 26

Info :

Change colors to Turquoise (don't cut the Pale Blue yarn, carry it over).

Row 16 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): ch1, sc in all 26sts, ch1, turn = 26

Row 17 :

sc in next 2sts, hdc in next 24sts, turn = 26

Info :

Change colors to Pale Blue and cut the Turquoise yarn.

Row 18 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 19sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 24

Row 19 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 17sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 22

Row 20 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): dc2tog x 2, dc in next 15sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 21 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 13sts, dc2tog x 2, turn = 18

Row 22 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 13sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 20

Row 23 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 15sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 22

Row 24 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): (2dc in next st) x 2, dc in next 17sts, hdc, sc in last 2sts, ch1, turn = 24

Row 25 :

(all stitches crocheted in the back loops only (BLO)): sc in next 2sts, hdc, dc in next 19sts, (2dc in next st) x 2, turn = 26

Info :

Fasten off the Pale Blue and weave in the ends. We will crochet a single crochet border around the wing membrane.

— Assembling The Wing :

Info :

Join the Turquoise yarn in the last stitch you made in the wing membrane (row 25). Sc along row 25, making 1sc in each st until you have 1st left in that side. Make 3sc in that last stitch and now you will be crocheting along the edge of the rows, on the side that starts with sc stitches.

Info :

Sc2tog, pulling a loop in each row. You will make one sc2tog for each 2 rows until you have 1 row left, sc in that row (you will end up with 13sts). Now you will crochet along the bottom of the wing membrane. Make 3sc in the first st on that side, sc in each stitch along that side until you have 1 stitch left, 3sc in the last stitch.

Info :

You are now crocheting along the edge of the wing membrane on the side that has the rows ending in double crochet stitches. Make 5sc for each 2 rows that were made in Pale Blue as follows: (2sc in dc post, sc between 2 rows, 2sc in dc post) x 2, 2sc in dc post. You reached the 2 Turquoise rows: sc in first Turquoise row, ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in 2nd Turquoise row.

Info :

You reached the Pale Blue section between the Turquoise rows, make (2sc in dc post, sc between 2 rows, 2sc in dc post) x 4. Again, you reached the 2 Turquoise rows: sc in first Turquoise row, ch3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sc in 2nd Turquoise row. You reached the Pale Blue section after the Turquoise rows, make (2sc in dc post, sc between 2 rows, 2sc in dc post) x 4.

Info :

You have reached the first stitch where you joined the Turquoise yarn, make 2sc in the same stitch you have joined, sl st in the first sc made to complete the round. Repeat the same steps for the second wing membrane, making sure they are position symmetrically (you will crochet on the wrong side of one wing and the right side of the other).

— The Wing Bones :

Round 1 :

make a magic ring, 8sc into the magic ring, pull the tail to close it shut = 8

Rounds 2 - 71 :

sc in each st, fasten off and close off the hole after finishing stuffing = 8

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Fill the wing bone firmly with toy stuffing as you crochet the rows. NOTE: Based on your yarn, hook and crochet tension, your wing bone might come out longer or shorter than mine. My wing bone is 38cm long.

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Pin the wing membrane to the bone from the tip of the wing (where you finished row 25 of the wing) to the middle of the bottom row (middle of row 1). Sew the wing membrane to the bone.

— The Blanket :

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Special Stitches: The Double Crochet Cluster - The pointy leaf is crocheted around the 2 double crochet posts in the double crochet cluster. You will always crochet the leaf in the cluster, never around 2 random double crochet posts.

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Step 1: First Half Of The Leaf - Place your work with the right side up, vertically with the end towards you and the hook away from you. Make 5dc around the first dc post of the cluster.

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Step 2: The Pointy Tip (Picot Stitch) - Once the first half of the leaf is crocheted, rotate your work 90 degrees to the right until it is horizontally placed in front of you with the top of the work facing you. Ch3, sl st in the base stitch (NOT the base chain) by inserting the hook through both loops at the base.

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Step 3: The Second Half Of The Leaf - After you make the pointy tip, rotate again 90 degrees to the right until the work is vertically placed in front of you, with the end of the row away from you. Make 5dc around the second dc post in the cluster.

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Step 4: Attaching The Leaf To The Lattice - We will go one extra step and attach the end of the leaf to the latticework behind it. Turn your work around again, this time with the wrong side facing you and the top of the work pointing up. Sl st in between the 2 double crochet stitches of the next cluster.

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Your pointy leaf is complete.

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The pattern notes: ch1 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch. Stitches contained within ** are the repeat section for that row. ch4 at the beginning of the row counts as a double crochet plus 1ch. TIP 1: this pattern is crocheted on the right side only, meaning that we crochet the lattice rows from right to left, then we go back, from left to right, and crochet the leaves around every other double crochet cluster. TIP 2: the leaves are offset from one row to another.

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How To Adjust The Pattern To Your Gauge: The pattern requires (multiples of 6ch) + 1ch. TIP: If you can not replicate the gauge, then make a sample and measure how many stitches you have in a 10cm area (6sts for each leaf). Multiply it by 8 to know how many stitches you need in an 80cm wide blanket. Then adjust the number of chains to fit the above formula for the stitch.

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Using a 5mm crochet hook and Pale Blue yarn, ch103.

Row 1 :

Lattice Row - Make 2dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch1, sk2, 2dc in the following ch*, repeat from * until you have 2ch left, sk1, dc in last ch.

Row 2 :

Leaf Row - Ch1 (does not count as a st), turn and sc in first st. Turn back to the right side *in the next cluster, make a leaf (as explained in the tutorial above, including the sl st in the next cluster)*, repeat until you have one cluster and 1dc left (the dc is the ch3 you skipped on row 1). In the last cluster make a leaf, but this time don't sl st at the end, instead, sc in the 3rd ch of ch3 that counts as a dc (count from the bottom up). Change colors to Turquoise.

Row 3 :

Lattice Row - Ch4 (counts as 1dc + 1ch). Make 2dc in-between the 2dc of the following cluster. *Ch2, 2dc in-between the following cluster*, repeat from * until you have crocheted in the last cluster in the row. Ch1, dc in the sc stitch below you made at the beginning of row 2.

Row 4 :

Leaf Row - Ch1 (does not count as a st), turn and sc in first st, ch1, sl st in-between the 2dc of the first cluster. Turn back to the right side *in the next cluster, make a leaf (as explained in the tutorial above, including the sl st in the next cluster)*, repeat until you have sl st in the very last cluster. Ch1, sc in the 3rd ch of ch3 that counts as a dc (count from the bottom up).

Row 5 :

Lattice Row - Ch4 (counts as 1dc + 1ch). Make 2dc in-between the 2dc of the following cluster. *Ch2, 2dc in-between the following cluster*, repeat from * until you have crocheted in the last cluster in the row. Ch1, dc in the sc stitch below you made at the beginning of row 2.

Row 6 :

Leaf Row - Ch1 (does not count as a st), turn and sc in first st. Turn back to the right side *in the next cluster, make a leaf (as explained in the tutorial above, including the sl st in the next cluster)*, repeat until your blanket is approximately 90cm long, don't forget to alternate the color every 2 rows (pale blue, turquoise, white).

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Repeat rows 3 - 6 until your blanket is approximately 90cm long. My blanket has 49 rows of leaves (98 rows if you count the lattice rows). Finish your blanket in Pale Blue and on a row that starts with a leaf (like row 6). Once you finish the blanket, bring the white yarn to the top, pull it through the loop on the hook and cut the Pale Blue and Turquoise yarns. Weave in the ends.

— The Blanket Border :

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The border is made with White yarn and 5mm crochet hook. Continue from the corner where you finished your last row. Turn the blanket with the right side up (the leaves will face you).

Round 1 :

Crocheting Along The Top Of The Blanket: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), 3sc in the first st to form the corner, *2sc in the ch2 space, 1sc between the 2dc of the cluster below*, repeat from * until you have crocheted in the last chain space (which is a 1ch space), 3sc in that last stitch to create the corner.

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Crocheting Along The Side Of The Blanket: *2sc around the dc post, 1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the next dc post*, repeat from * until you have reached the bottom of the blanket (NOTE: you are skipping the sc rows that start with a leaf).

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Crocheting Along The Bottom Of The Blanket: 3sc in the first ch of the row to form the corner, sc in each chain along the base until you have 1ch left, 3sc in the last ch to form the other corner.

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Crocheting Along The Side Of The Blanket: 2dc around the dc post, *2sc around the dc post, 1sc in the sc row, 2sc around the next dc post*, repeat from * until you have reached the top of the blanket (NOTE: you are skipping the sc rows that start with a leaf), sl st into the first sc you have made to close the round.

Round 2 :

hdc around the border, making 1hdc in each stitch and 3hdc in each corner stitch (the 2nd of the 3dc you made in round 1).

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Fasten off, weave in all the ends. Your blanket is now complete.

— The Loops :

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Crochet 3 loops on the blanket edge with White and a 3.5mm hook: 1 in each corner of the same long side and one in the middle, between the 2 you just made. Loop: make a slip knot and pull it through the stitch, ch5, sl st in the next stitch, fasten off, weave in the ends.

— The Buttons :

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Make 3 in White using a 3.5mm crochet hook.

Button :

make a magic ring, 8hdc in the magic ring, sl st, fasten off.

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Join them with a knot to the blanket using the tails, on the opposite side from the loops, 2 in the corners and one midway between them (make sure the middle button is opposite to the middle loop). Weave in the ends.

— Assembling The Blanket :

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Pin the wing, legs, tail and head onto the blanket where desired before sewing to ensure correct placement. Sew the parts securely using the long tails and a tapestry needle.

— Assembling The Head :

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Place the eyes between rows 7 & 8 on the eye whites, in the middle of the row. Make sure the eye whites are facing opposite each other before placing the eyes, not in the same direction.

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Pin the eye whites to the head, making sure you push the tip of the eye inside the head. The eye whites are placed on each side of the head with the tip reaching Row 20 (where the raised forehead starts), with the back ends slightly angled up.

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Temporarily pin the horns between the eyes, right at the back end of them, to make sure everything looks good. Pin the upper lid piece above the eye white, slightly over it. The longer narrow end goes towards the tip of the eye, the shorter narrow end goes towards the end of the head.

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When everything looks right, start sewing the pieces to the head using the long tails. Sew the eye whites first, continue with the upper lids and sew through only one layer of it (don't sew through both sides of the upper lid, we want it to stitch out and give a 3D effect). Sew the lower lids next.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place the eyes between rows 7 & 8 on the eye whites and secure them in the middle of the row; ensure the eye whites face opposite each other before setting the eyes.
  • Pin and sew the upper eyelids above the eye whites, sewing through only one layer of the eyelid to produce a raised 3D effect; then sew the lower eyelids beneath the eye whites.
  • Temporarily pin horns between the eyes and at the back end, verify placement, then sew horns securely to the head using long tails and a tapestry needle.
  • Position and sew the legs to the blanket or body base (as shown in photos), spacing evenly; attach tail centered at the bottom of the blanket and sew wing bones and membranes to the blanket previously pinned.
  • Attach buttons to the blanket opposite the loops: two in the corners and one midway between them, securing them with knots and weaving in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of the beginning of each round, especially when working in continuous rounds or short rows.
  • 💡Stuff horns, limbs and head firmly but not overly tight to avoid stretching stitches and distorting shaping.
  • 💡Carry colors neatly or secure ends and weave them in as you go to avoid bulky color changes and tidy finishing.
  • 💡Create all parts first and then construct the blanket to ensure you have enough yarn and can adjust placement symmetrically.

This Ice Dragon baby blanket pattern brings a magical companion to naptime and nursery decor, combining a cozy textured blanket with a plush dragon friend. The detailed step-by-step rounds and photo tutorials guide you through shaping each charming piece and assembling them onto the blanket for a professional finish. Whether you gift it or keep it, this handmade dragon blanket will warm hearts and spark imaginations. 🧶🐉✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished blanket measures approximately 95cm tall x 80cm wide when using the recommended DK yarn and the 5mm hook for the blanket body.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; adjust hook sizes and chain counts to fit the required multiples and gauge.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches, working in the round and short rows is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in 12-15 hours spread across multiple sessions, depending on experience and how many parts are made.