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Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

The Aestas Top is a seamless, top-down crochet garment designed specifically for the summer heat. It features a solid front for modest coverage and beautiful openwork lattice panels along the sides for ventilation and style. The pattern uses breathable worsted cotton to keep you cool and comfortable.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Constructed with a yoke and short rows for a tailored fit, this project includes optional waist shaping instructions to customize the silhouette to your body type.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because of the clever side panel construction that adds such a unique detail to a simple silhouette. The top-down seamless design means you can try it on as you go, ensuring the perfect fit before you even finish. It works up surprisingly quickly with worsted weight yarn, making it a satisfying project that you can wear right away. Plus, the combination of solid stitches and lace creates a modern look that pairs perfectly with jeans or skirts.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize the Aestas Top to fit your personal style! Since it's worked from the top down, you can try it on as you go and adjust the length perfectly—make it a crop top for high-waisted shorts or a longer tunic for leggings.

Want a different look for the side panels? You could experiment with different openwork stitches or lace patterns in the underarm sections to create a unique texture.

While cotton is recommended for breathability, you could try a bamboo or linen blend for an even drapier fabric with a luxurious feel. Just be sure to check your gauge first!

The optional waist shaping is a great feature—if you prefer a loose, boxy fit, simply skip those instructions. For a more form-fitting silhouette, you can add even more decrease rounds to accentuate your waist.

Finally, play with color! A solid bright color screams summer fun, while a neutral tone like the sample makes for a versatile wardrobe staple that goes with everything.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Twisting the initial chain for the yoke will create a twisted circle; ensure the chain lies flat before joining with a slip stitch. ✗ Miscounting stitches in the openwork rounds leads to misaligned side panels; double-check your stitch counts after every round of the yoke. ✗ Skipping the short rows results in a poor fit around the neck and shoulders; follow the back and front short row instructions carefully for proper shaping. ✗ Not blocking the finished cotton top can leave it looking crumpled; wash and block your garment to open up the lace and even out the stitches.

Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

Aestas means summer in Latin, and this top is exactly that—a perfect breathable summer staple. Crocheted seamlessly from the top down using worsted cotton, it features decorative openwork panels down the sides. With photo tutorials included, you can create a beautiful addition to your warm-weather wardrobe.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted cotton yarn
  • 02
    Approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) meters / 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5 mm (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle
  • 03
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Setup :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the chs, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sps)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch+dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sps)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch+tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sps)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168 hdcs)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Sizes M, L, XL only :

Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, do not fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work does not start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we will continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Infos :

Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Look for the last dc of the first back short row and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdcs from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdcs between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdcs, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dcs)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dcs)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dcs)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows.

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we will be working in closed rounds again, without turning.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dcs across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dcs across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtogs; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dcs + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtogs)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sps, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtogs)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [to] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dcs + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) scs)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 scs, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2 trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dcs + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtogs + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtogs] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dcs + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) scs)

Instructions :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice - or just below the bust - (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25-at the hips - (total 8 sts increased).

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Finishing :

Fasten off, wash and block - blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

Assembly Instructions

  • Form the yoke by chaining 102 (108, 114, 120, 126) and closing with a slip stitch to form a circle, being careful not to twist the chain.
  • Join the yarn for the front short rows to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke, skipping the appropriate number of stitches from the back section.
  • Connect the back and front sections at Bodice Round 1 by creating chain bridges of 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) stitches for each underarm.
  • Fasten off after reaching the desired length, then wash and block the garment to open up the lace panels and even out the stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡The yoke consists of 5 rounds of openwork crochet worked in closed rounds without turning.
  • 💡Blocking is essential for this pattern as it really makes a difference to cotton garments and defines the openwork.
  • 💡Try on the top as you go to check the fit and determine where to begin and end any optional waist shaping.
  • 💡For the underarm sections in Bodice Round 4, do not work into the 2trtogs from the previous round.

This Aestas Top pattern brings the essence of summer to your hook with its breezy design and stylish details. ☀️ Whether you're heading to the beach or a brunch, this handmade piece will be your go-to favorite. Enjoy the process of creating your new wardrobe staple! 🧶✨

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FAQs

What sizes does this pattern cover?

The pattern includes instructions for sizes XS, S, M, L, and XL, fitting busts from 31 to 45 inches.

Is this pattern seamless?

Yes, the Aestas Top is crocheted seamlessly from the top down, meaning minimal sewing is required.

Can I adjust the length of the top?

Absolutely! You can repeat rounds 3-6 of the bodice until the top reaches your desired length.

Do I need to block the finished top?

Yes, blocking is highly recommended for cotton garments to ensure the openwork panels sit correctly and the fabric drapes well.