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Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Pattern

This pattern creates the Aestas Top, a lightweight summer tank crocheted seamlessly from the top down. It features five rounds of openwork at the yoke and decorative open panels down each side for breathability and style. The design is written in US terms and includes step-by-step instructions with photo guidance for trickier rounds.

Aestas Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Worked in worsted cotton with a 5 mm hook to give a soft, breathable fabric that blocks beautifully. Fit is customizable with optional waist shaping and repeatable bodice rounds to achieve your desired length.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple construction with pretty openwork details that elevate an everyday top. I love how the seamless, top-down approach makes it easy to try on as you go and adjust the fit. The underarm openwork creates a flattering silhouette while keeping the piece airy and comfortable in warm weather. Creating different colorways is so satisfying and you can easily make matching tops for friends. This design always feels like a quick, rewarding make that looks like more effort than it actually is.

Aestas Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color so I often make this top in variegated or ombre cotton for a lively finish.

I sometimes change the yarn weight and hook size to create a chunkier summer tank or a delicate lighter-weight version.

I recommend trying waist shaping or skipping it entirely depending on whether you prefer a relaxed or fitted silhouette.

I like to lengthen the bodice by repeating rounds 3-6 until the top sits where I want it on my hips.

For a more modest neckline, I work fewer increases in the yoke or narrow the shoulder join by reducing ch counts at the underarms.

I often embellish with a simple crochet trim around the neckline or hem to add a custom touch.

You can convert this into a sleeved top by adding short sleeves worked in the round from the armhole ch-sps.

I sometimes add small shoulder straps or ties instead of the standard armhole to create a different look and support.

To make a mini version for a child or a keychain decorative piece, swap to a lighter yarn and smaller hook and adjust stitch counts proportionally.

I also recommend trying a soft linen-blend cotton for a summer-ready drape and texture variation.

When customizing, I always make a small swatch and measure frequently so my adjustments preserve the stitch pattern and fit.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking gauge before starting; make a 10x10 cm / 4x4 in swatch (14 dc x 8 rows) and adjust your hook size to ensure the finished fit is accurate. ✗ Twisting the foundation chain when joining to form the yoke; lay the chain flat and double-check orientation before slip stitching to close the circle. ✗ Fastening off after back short rows which can cause the work to unravel; instead leave the working loop live and rest the skein until you are ready to rejoin for the front short rows. ✗ Skipping stitch counts when working short rows leads to misaligned underarm shaping; carefully count the specified hdc's and dc's and mark the positions to ensure symmetry. ✗ Rushing the 2trtog and 2trtog placement in Bodice Round 3 will distort the underarm shaping; follow the photo steps and place the 2trtog's exactly as instructed for neat openwork. ✗ Failing to block the finished garment which leaves cotton looking uneven; wash and block flat to let the stitch pattern open and the top reach its intended dimensions.

Aestas Top Pattern

Make a breezy summer top you will reach for all season. This seamless, top-down crochet tank features decorative openwork side panels and a comfortable scoop neck. The pattern uses worsted cotton and includes detailed photo-tutorial style instructions so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for making multiple colorways to match your summer wardrobe.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) m), or 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards total depending on size
  • 02
    Sizes: XS uses approx 350 m (385 yds); S 375 m (410 yds); M 425 m (465 yds); L 475 m (520 yds); XL 550 m (600 yds)
  • 03
    Use a breathable cotton yarn suitable for garments and blocking

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5.0 mm (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle
  • 03
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Round 0 :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168) hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 9-10 :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows.

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so I have included photos to help, below.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2 trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice - or just below the bust - (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 - at the hips - (total 8 sts increased). Of course, everybody is different; this may not match your shape. My advice is to try on as you go to check where to begin and end the shaping rounds. Anyhow, this is how I placed the shaping rounds:

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block - blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

— Finished :

Info :

Tah-Dahh! Finished. There's nothing quite like seeing a pattern come to life in the hands of other makers. Share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fasten off the final round and weave in all ends neatly using a darning needle; hide tails inside the fabric to prevent visible joins.
  • Wash and block the finished top flat to open the stitch pattern and reach the stated measurements, pinning edges to shape before drying.
  • Try the top on during bodice rounds and pin the side panels to adjust fit before committing to final length or shaping rounds.
  • When joining front and back at the underarm ch sections, ensure the ch-13 (or size-specific ch) counts form a neat armhole; check symmetry before slip stitching to close the round.

Important Notes

  • 💡Do not twist the foundation chain when joining the yoke to form a circle; lay your chain flat and double-check orientation before slip stitching.
  • 💡Leave the working loop at the end of the back short rows instead of fastening off so you can easily rejoin for the front short rows later.
  • 💡Try the top on as you work the bodice and optional shaping to customize the fit for your body before finishing and blocking.
  • 💡Blocking cotton garments really improves the drape and stitch definition; wash gently and block to measurements.

This airy Aestas Top is the perfect summer wardrobe staple with pretty openwork and a flattering scoop neckline. Make it in your favorite cotton color for breezy beach days or sunny city strolls. Try adding waist shaping or length adjustments to make it your own. 🧶🌞🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) and is written to fit busts approx 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm or 31 (34, 37, 41, 45) inches; adjust by trying on as you work the bodice rounds.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the gauge and finished size; choose an appropriate hook and make a gauge swatch (14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm) to achieve the intended fit.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic skills like dc, hdc, sc, tr and reading round instructions are required, but detailed instructions and photos are provided for the more complex rounds.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this top in about 5-7 hours, though time will vary depending on experience, yarn choice, and whether you try it on and adjust fit during construction.

How should I finish and care for the top?

Fasten off and weave in ends, then wash gently and block flat to open the stitch pattern and shape the garment; cotton benefits greatly from blocking.