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Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic knitting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top is a breezy, top-down crochet tank designed for summer days. Crocheted seamlessly with breathable worsted cotton, it includes openwork panels for a delicate, feminine finish. The pattern contains clear instructions for short rows, underarm shaping, and optional waist shaping to tailor the fit.

Aestas Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

This pattern is ideal for makers who enjoy a mix of simple stitches and decorative openwork. Photos and explanations help with the trickier rounds so you can succeed with confidence.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines a flattering silhouette with playful openwork details that still feel easy to make. I enjoy how quickly the top comes together and how customizable the fit is with optional shaping.

Aestas Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I enjoyed designing and testing the Aestas Top because it feels both delicate and practical, perfect for summer wardrobes.

I recommend making a gauge swatch and trying the top on as you go if you want a perfectly tailored fit.

I also like to experiment with lighter or heavier cottons to change drape and texture.

I often add subtle waist shaping for a more fitted silhouette and increase length for a tunic style.

If you prefer, I swap the treble clusters for smaller shells to make the underarm decorative detail more subtle.

I find that blocking really opens the lace and improves fit, so I always block my samples before finishing.

I love seeing color variations — neutral cotton is timeless, but bold colors make the openwork pop.

I advise using stitch markers at the start of rounds and at underarm transitions to avoid counting mistakes.

I sometimes work the yoke with a slightly smaller hook for a firmer neckline, then switch to the recommended hook for the body.

I hope these tips inspire you to make the Aestas Top your way and enjoy the process as much as the result.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the back bump when working the first hdc round can make the yoke too tight; work into the back bump as instructed. ✗ Not counting chain-spaces carefully during the yoke repeats leads to mismatched openwork; mark repeat boundaries before continuing. ✗ Fastening off after short rows will lose your live edge; instead leave the working loop and resume later as instructed. ✗ Ignoring gauge will alter the finished bust size significantly; make a 10x10 cm gauge swatch and adjust hook size accordingly. ✗ Working short rows without marking the place where the back ends can confuse front placement; mark the last dc of the back short row to locate front joining.

Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas means summer in Latin — this lightweight crochet top is perfect for warm days. Worked seamlessly from the top down in breathable worsted cotton, it features decorative openwork yoke panels and a comfortable bodice. Clear instructions and helpful photos guide you through short rows and underarm shaping to create a flattering summer staple.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) m, or 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards of worsted cotton yarn

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5 mm crochet hook, or hook needed to meet gauge
  • 02
    Darning needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Measuring tape
  • 06
    Blocking pins and a blocking mat (for washing/blocking)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning.

Info :

ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168 hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo below) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows. Now onto the bodice...

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so I have included photos to help, below.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch 2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional Waist Shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice - or just below the bust - (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 - at the hips - (total 8 sts increased). Of course, everybody is different; this may not match your shape. My advice is to try on as you go to check where to begin and end the shaping rounds. Anyhow, this is how I placed the shaping rounds:

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block - blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

Info :

Tah-Dahh! Finished. There's nothing quite like seeing a pattern come to life in the hands of other makers. So please share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry! Thank you.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all loose ends securely using a darning needle; secure yarn tails inside the stitches to hide them.
  • Block the finished top by wetting lightly and pinning to measurements, smoothing the openwork to shape the yoke and panels.
  • Try on during bodice rounds if adding optional waist shaping; adjust decreases/increases to fit your body before continuing.
  • If using multiple skeins, carry and join yarn carefully at the side seams or inside the underarm sections to avoid bulky joins.
  • Use stitch markers to locate the beginning of rounds and the underarm chains to ensure correct placement when working repeats.
  • After blocking and finishing, trim all ends and press gently if needed with a cool iron under a cloth for a neater finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work a gauge swatch of 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm to ensure your finished top will fit as expected.
  • 💡Leave the working loop at the end of the back short rows; do not fasten off to continue seamlessly into the bodice.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds, underarm chains and panel boundaries for consistent shaping.
  • 💡Blocking cotton makes a large difference in drape and stitch definition — always wash and block before final finishing.
  • 💡Count chain-spaces and repeats carefully on the yoke rounds; errors early on will affect symmetry across the yoke.
  • 💡Try the top on while working the bodice to fine tune length and waist shaping for a better personalized fit.

This light and airy Aestas Top was designed for sunny days and effortless style. The openwork yoke and seamless construction make it both beautiful and wearable. Perfect for weekend projects and easy customization. 🧶☀️👗

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FAQs

What sizes does this pattern include?

This pattern includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) with yarn quantities and stitch counts given in parentheses for each size.

What yarn and hook should I use to match the sample?

Use worsted weight cotton yarn and a 5 mm crochet hook or the hook needed to obtain the gauge of 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm.

How do I work the short rows and continue without losing the loop?

Do not fasten off at the end of the last back short row; instead pull up the working loop and let it rest. When ready, rejoin the hook to that loop to continue into the bodice as instructed.

Can I customize the waist and length?

Yes — optional waist shaping is described in the pattern using decreases and increases; repeat bodice rounds until you reach your desired length.