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Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🍂

Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

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About This Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern

This pattern creates an eye-catching autumn sunflower table runner made from repeating sunflower motifs layered over textured leaves. Each motif is constructed in modular pieces: a spiral center, petal round, and outer leaf layer, worked in warm autumn colors. The runner is joined motif-to-motif and finished with a neat single crochet border for a polished look. The design uses puff stitches and front/back post techniques to create raised petals and dimensional leaves that sit beautifully on a wooden table.

Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for seasonal decor or holiday tables, the runner is shown in mustard, cream, deep burgundy, olive, rust and chocolate brown. You can adjust length by adding or removing motifs to suit your table.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern

I love how tactile and three-dimensional this runner is—each sunflower petal and leaf has a sculpted, hand-stitched quality that catches light beautifully. I also enjoy the modular approach: making each motif separately means you can customize the color order as you go. The rich autumn palette in the photos gives such a warm, cozy feeling, and I think this runner would make any fall table feel instantly welcoming.

Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this pattern allows so many creative changes — I often switch up the petal color order to create alternating warm and cool sunflowers down the runner. Experimenting with a cream center in some motifs and burgundy in others can create a dramatic harvest look.

I also like to vary leaf sizes: making a few larger leaves per motif gives a fuller, more organic edge, while lots of tiny leaves creates a textured, lace-like border. You can change the number of petals (16 for bold petals or 20 for a daintier look) by adjusting the center increases (48 sts for 16 petals, 60 sts for 20 petals).

If I want a quicker project, I use bulkier yarn and larger hooks to make each motif bigger—just two or three motifs plus a wide border becomes a striking table runner in much less time. Alternatively, add a fabric backing for extra protection and stability.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round will make it hard to track repeats and may cause misaligned petals; always mark round starts. ✗ Failing to change hook sizes for dense stitches like puff or post work can make petals stiff or too tight; test gauge and adjust. ✗ Not blocking motif pieces before joining can result in uneven joins and puckered seams; lightly steam or wet-block before assembly. ✗ Overstuffing or bunching yarn when weaving in ends at petal bases creates lumps; weave ends flat and trim close. ✗ Incorrect math when increasing for the center will offset anchor points for petals; count every increase round to maintain 48 stitches for 16 petals. ✗ Sewing petals too tightly to the center flattens the dimensional look; pin and place first, then baste with long stitches to check positioning.

Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern

Create a warm, rustic table runner made of layered crochet sunflowers and textured leaves in autumnal tones. This pattern uses modular sunflower motifs joined into a long runner with rich puff and post-stitch petals. Finished runner shows clustered mustard, cream, burgundy and olive motifs for a cozy harvest table display.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Sunflower Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120g in chocolate brown (center color)
  • 02
    120g in mustard/golden yellow (primary sunflower petals)
  • 03
    80-100g in cream/ivory (accent sunflower petals)
  • 04
    80-100g in deep burgundy (accent sunflower petals)
  • 05
    120g in russet/rust orange (leaf background and accents)
  • 06
    120g in olive/green (leaf background and accents)
  • 07
    Small amounts (10-20g) in tan/khaki for subtle leaf variation

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust to tension)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for tighter center rounds (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 8-12) to mark repeats and round starts
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking mats and pins (optional but recommended)
  • 07
    Tape measure or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: stitch counter or notepad
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing ends (use sparingly)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Center Spiral (make one per sunflower) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

Use a smaller hook for the first 6-8 rounds if you prefer a tighter, denser center. Maintain 48 sts to anchor 16 petals later (48 divided by 16 = 3 base sts per petal)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc in each st BLO to produce a subtle ridge (48)

Info :

If you want a slightly domed center, lightly stuff the center with a small ball of yarn or fiberfill before adding petal anchors

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 14 :

Change to chocolate brown or chosen center color if needed and work 1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place 16 evenly spaced removable stitch markers around this round, marking every 3rd stitch. These marks will be your petal anchor points; adjust spacing visually if you prefer larger or smaller petals

— Petal Base & Petals (work one motif's petal round; 16 petals) :

Round 1 :

With petal color, join with sl st to any marker stitch. *Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts* then move to next marker. Repeat from * to * around ensuring you work 3 sc segments into the three base sts assigned for each petal anchor. (48)

Round 2 :

Working in back loops only across the 48 sts: 1 sc BLO in each st (48)

Info :

The BLO round creates a subtle ridge that helps petals stand proud. If you prefer flatter petals, work this round in normal sc

Round 3 :

*Work into the 1st st of each 3-st anchor: ch 2, 3 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st (petal shell made on single anchor)*. Move to the next anchor st (repeat x16). After 16 petals you will have formed 16 shell anchors across the round.

Round 4 :

*Turn work so petals face outward. In the small space over each petal base ch 1, work 6 puff stitches across the petal body to create a raised elongated petal: (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop) x3-4 then pull through all loops and ch 1 to close puff.* Slip stitch into base between petals to secure. Repeat x16 (petal count =16)

Info :

Puff stitch details: keep consistent loop height for each puff (3-4 wraps for a pronounced petal). If your yarn is very bulky, use 3 wraps; for lighter worsted use 4 wraps for a lofty petal.

Round 5 :

Rotate work: sl st behind the first petal to the base. For each petal work (ch2, 3 dc cluster around the puff post, ch2), then sl st to next petal base. This reinforces petals and creates a layered look (work repeated x16)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around the center base between petals (48). This round will tidy the inner edge and secure petal anchors.

Round 7 :

Switch to secondary petal color if desired for bicolor petals. Join to the top of any petal and work 3 sc into the tip area of the petal, then 1 sc down the next side and 1 sc into base. Repeat around shaping the petal tip (this creates an outer taper). (16 petal tops, 48 sc distributed)

Info :

For deep, sculpted petals work the top repeat in FLO on this round to create a raised outer edge. Keep the petals consistent by counting the same stitches along each petal edge

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (48). If your petals seem sparse, add a second reinforcement round of slip stitches along petal bases to lock them in place

Round 9 :

Optional: Work a decorative picot or sc edging around each petal tip: *ch 3, sl st in third ch to form small picot, sc down petal side* across each petal x16

Info :

Each motif uses 16 petals; if you prefer more delicate sunflowers use 20 petals by increasing early rounds to 60 sts (60/20 = 3 sts anchor) and adjust math accordingly

Round 10 :

Fasten off petal yarn leaving a 12-18in tail for sewing and assembly. Weave tail through base stitches and secure with a small knot on the wrong side if desired

— Leaf Unit (make 3-4 leaf motifs to layer under each sunflower) :

Round 1 :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9 sc) — this forms leaf center foundation (9)

Round 2 :

Turn, ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in last 3 sts. Work back along opposite foundation chain: sc in last foundation st, hdc in next 3, sc in first 3 (total approximately 24 sts around leaf)

Round 3 :

Edge shaping: *sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc* along one side of leaf from base to tip. Mirror the sequence down the other side when you reach the tip to form symmetric leaf (counts will vary with tension)

Info :

Work leaf sizes in pairs, blocking lightly so their shape matches. Use lighter or heavier gauge to make larger or smaller leaves to position beautifully under petals

Round 4 :

Work a row of fpdc along the midline (center spine) of the leaf: insert hook around post and fpdc to create raised vein. Do 1 fpdc every 2 sts along center to the tip (gives textured vein)

Round 5 :

Flip and repeat fpdc on the opposite side for a subtle raised vein on both sides. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Alternate leaf colors (olive, rust, tan) to create a layered autumn palette. Make 3-4 leaves per motif and arrange them offset behind petals for a natural look

— Small Accent Leaf Variation (for outer runner fill) :

Round 1 :

Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6 sc)

Round 2 :

Turn, ch1 sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Mirror back along chain edge (approx. 16 sts around)

Round 3 :

Edge with 1 sc around, making 3 sc at the tip to shape the point. Fasten off leaving tail for assembly

Info :

Make many small leaves to tuck between motifs for a fuller runner — these are used to cover seams and create the dense leaf border you see in the photo

— Motif Assembly (attach leaves and finish motif) :

Round 1 :

Lay center & petal assembly flat. Position 3-4 full leaves slightly overlapping under the petals. Using the long tail from center, whip stitch leaves to the underside of center across base stitches. Use pins to secure placement first.

Round 2 :

Sew small accent leaves between the larger leaves and around the sides so that leaves overlap slightly and produce a layered edge. Aim for even distribution; a common layout is 3 large leaves spaced ~120 degrees and 4-6 small leaves to fill gaps.

Info :

Use a blunt tapestry needle and mattress or invisible stitches to secure leaves; take small stitches through the base to prevent visible sewing on the right side

Round 3 :

From the right side, pick up a contrast yarn (e.g., rust) and work sc around the underside join area to cover seam. Work 1 sc in each visible base stitch and in between leaf joins for neat finish (approx 48 sc around)

Round 4 :

Work 1 rnd of sc in FLO around petal outer edges where petals meet leaves to unify the motif; this often uses 48 sc spaced evenly (adjust as needed per petals)

Info :

If your join round increases the circumference slightly, register that change—this is normal due to layered fabric. Aim to keep counts near the original 48 anchor points to make joining motifs easier later

— Joining Motifs into Runner (arrange 4-6 motifs or more) :

Round 1 :

Lay motifs in desired order on flat surface with leaf layers overlapping slightly (photo shows motifs joined end-to-end with leaves interleaving). Place pins to hold positions.

Round 2 :

Whip stitch adjacent leaf edges together on the underside to secure initial placement. Use long whip stitches spaced every 4-6 mm to avoid bunching. Make sure motifs are aligned so centers create a straight central line down the runner.

Round 3 :

Change to a joining color (e.g., rust) and work through both motifs' outer edge loops with sl st or sc join: *Insert hook through outer loop of motif A and outer loop of motif B, sl st* repeat around overlapping leaf seam to create continuous fabric. Count stitches frequently — aim for 3 sl st per small leaf section or 6 sl st per large leaf depending on seam width.

Info :

Start joining from the underside to avoid visible knots on the right side. Work slowly at first to ensure leaves interlock naturally without twisting motifs

Round 4 :

After joining adjacent motifs along their overlapping leaves, work 1 round of sc along the open seam on the right side to tidy the join. This will often be 1 sc into each sl st join made and into the adjacent motif's edge stitches (approx 40-60 sc total across runner seam depending on motif layout)

Round 5 :

Repeat join process for all motifs until the runner reaches desired length. For a longer runner add more motifs and match leaf overlaps so seams lie flat.

Info :

Keep motifs facing the same direction so petal tips line up in a pleasing sequence. Alternate color order as you go to balance browns, golds and deep tones

— Outer Border & Edge Finishing :

Round 1 :

With contrast edging color (e.g., deep rust), join anywhere on outer edge and work 1 sc evenly along the entire perimeter of the joined runner. Where leaves create points, work 3 sc into the point to produce a scalloped look. Count total sts and adjust spacing for evenness (this round produces a tidy outer edge)

Round 2 :

Work 1 rnd of 1 sc in each st BLO to give a defined ridge on the outer edge (this will slightly raise the runner edge which looks neat on the table)

Info :

If your runner edge feels loose, add a second sc round or a round of hdc to add stability; this also helps protect leaf tips from wear

Round 3 :

Decorative picot round (optional): *sc, ch 3, sl st into first ch to create picot, skip 1 st* repeat around for a delicate border (counts depend on spacing)

Round 4 :

Fasten off and weave in all ends on the underside. Use a blunt needle and weave each tail through several rows of stitches and trim close. Press or gently steam-block runner to settle stitches.

Info :

Blocking tip: lightly dampen motifs and pin flat on a board so petals are slightly lifted. Allow to dry fully for best shape retention

— Optional Surface Embellishments :

Round 1 :

Use embroidery yarn or a contrast worsted to add French knot-style centers on the chocolate center with a tight chain of small slip-stitches or tiny bullion knots to mimic sunflower seeds.

Round 2 :

Add a few surface fpdc veins on the larger leaves for more texture: insert hook around post of leaf and pull yarn through to make raised veins; repeat as desired.

Info :

Less is more—subtle surface stitches enhance the rustic look. Test embellishments on a spare motif first to check scale

— Final Assembly & Care :

Round 1 :

Double-check all seams and weave in any remaining tails. Trim stray fibers and fluff petals lightly to keep them lofty.

Round 2 :

Spot clean as needed and hand wash gently in cool water if required. Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry to protect the structure of puff and post stitches.

Info :

Store flat or rolled (not folded) to avoid flattening petals. Avoid machine washing to maintain dimensional pillows of petals

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach leaves underneath each sunflower before joining motifs: position 3-4 full leaves under petal base and whip stitch through the underside of the center across several stitches. Pin leaves first to check symmetry.
  • Arrange motifs on a flat surface in desired order. Overlap leaf layers slightly (about 1-1.5 inches) where motifs meet to create continuous leaf texture; pin and baste before permanent joining.
  • Join adjacent motifs by working sl sts through matched outer edge loops on both motifs. Work from the underside for a neat right-side appearance, then tidy with a sc round on the top side.
  • When sewing petals to the center, use long tails to catch several stitches through the base only, then weave tail to underside and hide it; avoid sewing through petal body to maintain loft.
  • After joining all motifs, work the outer border round evenly around the entire runner, placing 3 sc into leaf points to form scallops and maintaining even tension for a flat edge.
  • Secure all loose ends by weaving them through multiple strands of the same color on the underside. Trim tails close and, if desired, add a dab of fabric glue to ends to prevent fraying.
  • Block each finished motif lightly before final joining for consistent shape; pin petals and leaves to shape and allow to dry completely for best results.
  • If you want the runner to lay extra flat, add a thin fabric backing cut to size and whip stitch to the underside, hiding stitches inside leaf overlaps.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff minimal or no stuffing into motif centers; a light yarn scrap can be used if you want a slightly domed center but avoid bulky fillings
  • 💡For puff stitches, keep loop height consistent across every petal for a uniform look; practice puffs on a gauge swatch first
  • 💡When joining motifs, check that right sides face up and leaves are layered consistently to achieve the runner's continuous look
  • 💡Weave ends on the underside and avoid surface knots; this keeps the right side neat and prevents bulk under petals
  • 💡Block motifs individually before joining for even shape and tension; pin petals so the runner sits flat
  • 💡Work tension slightly tighter than usual for amigurumi to prevent gaps; however, avoid excessively tight stitches that distort petal shape
  • 💡Count stitches often when creating centers and petal anchors—maintaining 48 stitches evenly spaced is key to even petal placement

This autumn sunflower table runner brings seasonal charm and handcrafted warmth to any table setting. Each layered sunflower and leaf is designed to create depth, color and texture—perfect for holiday gatherings or cozy everyday decor. I hope you enjoy stitching each motif and watching the runner grow—every petal is a little moment of craft joy. 🧶🍁🌻

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

With the specified worsted yarn and hook, each motif measures approximately 8-9 inches across. A runner made of four motifs joined end-to-end will be roughly 32-36 inches long and 9-10 inches wide. Adjust motif count to change length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Thicker yarn (bulky) will increase motif size and give a chunkier look; use a larger hook and fewer motifs for the same runner length. Finer yarn will shrink motifs and may flatten puff stitches; test on a sample motif first.

Do I need to block motifs before joining?

Blocking is strongly recommended. Light wet or steam blocking helps petals and leaves sit flat and ensures consistent shape across motifs, making joining smoother and neater.

How many motifs should I make for my table?

Measure your table and decide on desired runner length. Each motif is 8-9 inches wide; plan on 3-6 motifs for most tables. You can always add or remove motifs before final joining.

Can I machine wash the finished runner?

Hand washing in cool water is best to preserve puff stitches and prevent felting. Gently reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Avoid machine agitation and high temperatures.

Can I make the petals flatter or more pronounced?

Yes—adjust puff wrap counts (3 wraps for lower profile, 4 wraps for loftier petals), and use a slightly larger hook for airier petals or a smaller hook for denser ones.

How do I avoid gaps between petals when joining motifs?

Ensure centers have consistent stitch counts (48 recommended for 16 petals) and pin motifs carefully before joining. Use a sc round after joining to smooth any gaps.

Can I add a backing to the runner?

Absolutely—adding a thin fabric backing and whip stitching it to the underside will stabilize motifs and protect surfaces; be sure to leave a small overhang hidden under leaf layers.