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Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern

Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you to crochet a large, plush pink dragon with a soft cream belly, deep pink heart details, and a row of bobble spikes down its tail. The dragon has expressive safety eyes, a rounded snout, sturdy legs, curved wings with contrasting inner panels, and a crown of three crochet hearts perched between two cream horns. The textures include bobbles on the tail, small horns, and scalloped wing ridges that give it a playful, lovable personality.

Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Pattern uses worsted weight cotton-like yarn for crisp stitches and clean shaping. The instructions include detailed round-by-round counts, frequent tips, stuffing guidance, and precise placement instructions for eyes, spikes, and heart decorations.

Why You'll Love This Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because the combination of soft pinks, creamy accents, and bold heart motifs creates a whimsical, heartwarming character. I adore the little details—the heart-tipped tail, the crown of hearts, and the scalloped wing edges—that make this dragon feel special. The construction is thoughtful and modular, so you can enjoy making each part and then watch them come together into a cuddly, poseable friend.

Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The basic techniques are accessible enough for confident beginners but include details that experienced crocheters will appreciate, like the scalloped wings and heart spike placements.

If you want to switch things up I recommend trying different colorways: a mint and lavender dragon would be charming, or classic greens for a traditional dragon with pink hearts for contrast. You can also make the dragon smaller by using sport weight yarn and a 2.75mm hook or larger and fluffier with bulky yarn and a 5mm hook. Add beads or embroidery instead of safety eyes for a stylized face, or change the number of spikes down the tail to alter the silhouette.

I often swap the heart crown for a tiny flower crown or add a tiny crocheted scarf for seasonal variations. The wings can be made slightly larger or smaller by adjusting the number of rows in the inner panel, and you can experiment with different edge picot patterns for playful texture. Most importantly, have fun making it yours!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Forgetting to change hook size for tiny details can make hearts and horns too loose; switch to a smaller hook for neat small pieces ✗ Sewing pieces without pinning first often leads to crooked placement; always pin and check symmetry before final stitching ✗ Using safety eyes after stuffing the head too much prevents correct positioning; insert eyes when head is partially stuffed ✗ Ignoring yarn tails after sewing makes the work look messy; weave in ends securely and trim close for a clean finish

Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern

Create an irresistibly cuddly bubblegum-pink dragon with a creamy belly, heart crown, and heart-tipped tail. This amigurumi features layered wings, scalloped spikes down the back, a round snout, and chubby paws with heart pads—perfect as a gift or a keepsake. The pattern includes detailed step-by-step round instructions for each piece, assembly tips, and finishing notes so you can recreate this charming plush dragon.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Bubblegum Love Dragon with a Crown of Hearts Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 180-220g in bubblegum pink (main body)
  • 02
    120-140g in cream/off-white for belly, horns, wing inner panels, and paw pads
  • 03
    40-60g in deep pink/fuchsia for hearts, spikes, wing edging, and tail heart
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g each) in accent colors if you choose to add embroidery or contrast stitching (lighter pinks or red)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for smaller details and tighter stitches (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12mm (recommended) or 10mm based on final scale
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (approx. 100-150g)
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces together
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and placement
  • 09
    Optional: Thin floral wire for poseable tail/limbs (if desired)
  • 10
    Optional: Fabric glue for securing knots

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head (including crown area and eye row) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 11-12. Space them about 12-14 stitches apart (count from center front) for the look in the photo. Mark the first stitch of each round.

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 17 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly but not overstuffed. Add small amounts at a time so eyes sit securely and the face keeps shape; continue stuffing between rounds as you decrease.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 20 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 23 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing head onto body later but do not close this small hole completely yet if you will sew muzzle in place first. Keep head slightly open for attaching crown and horns securely.

— Snout / Muzzle :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mag ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Stuff snout firmly to hold shape. Add a little extra stuffing at the nose tip for a rounded finish. Position snout beneath eyes centered on head front, aligning rows so seams will be hidden.

Round 11 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 12 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Sew snout to head aligning round 7-9 of the snout with the lower front of the head. Use ladder stitch for a neat seam and hide tail inside head. Add two small embroidered nostrils with matching yarn if desired.

— Horns (Make 2 in cream) :

Info :

These horns are crocheted in spiral rounds as a tapered cone. Use cream yarn. Start with magic ring and increase slightly to form a thick base, then work even and decrease to taper into a point. Work tightly for a nice cone shape.

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-7 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 8 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3 (9)

Round 10 :

3 dec (3)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly at the base only so the horn keeps a firm curved shape. Position on top of head slightly behind the crown center and sew securely into head rounds 1-4 of the crown area.

— Crown Hearts (Make 3 deep pink hearts) :

Info :

Each heart is small and worked flat in one piece then folded and seamed. Use deep pink yarn. These will be sewn to the head in a row between horns. Ensure identical sizes for three hearts.

Round 1 :

ch 2, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 turn (3)

Round 2 :

Working on same side: (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in first stitch; turn and sc across remaining 2 sc (8)

Round 3 :

sc across, create 3 sc cluster for top lobes: (sc, inc) x 2 across both sides forming rounded top, total (12)

Round 4 :

sc around heart shaping corners evenly (12)

Info :

Fold heart in half with wrong sides together and seam base with whip stitch across 2-3 sts. Fasten off leaving tail to sew to head. Stuff lightly to give a puffy heart shape, especially near top lobes.

— Neck (short collar rounds connecting head to body) :

Round 1 :

Join cream or change to body pink to match head base: 6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Leave the neck opening slightly open if you plan to sew the head onto the body neck hole rather than closing here. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to the body.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

Change to cream yarn for belly panel now if you prefer to crochet belly as a separate oval panel to sew on later. Otherwise, continue body in pink and add belly as a separate piece. Begin stuffing body lightly from round 8 onwards so that shape stays even.

Round 11 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Stuff more firmly to give weight at the bottom so dragon can sit upright. Keep stuffing moderate so the neck seam is easy to attach later.

Round 17 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 18 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 19 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the neck and to close the bottom if needed. If you want a flat bottom for sitting, instead of closing to 6 sts, stop at round 12-13 and create a 6-8 stitch oval base separately and sew on.

— Belly Panel (Cream, make 1) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-10 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Make belly panel long enough to cover body front from chest to lower belly. Adjust rounds to match height seen on photo; you can add a couple more even rounds (24) if necessary to match body length.

Round 11 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Sew belly panel centered on front of body aligning the top with the upper chest area and bottom near body round 15. Use whip stitch and invisible ladder stitch to hide seam.

— Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 7 :

(4 sc, inc) x 3 (21)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in each st (21)

Info :

Stuff hand portion (rounds 1-6) firmly so the arm keeps a rounded look. Leave upper arm unstuffed or lightly stuffed to help sewing flat to the body.

Round 13 :

(3 sc, dec) x 3 (18)

Round 14 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3 (15)

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (15)

Round 19 :

(1 sc, dec) x 5 (10)

Round 20 :

5 dec (5)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Sew arms to body on either side at body rounds 9-12 to match photo. Position arms slightly forward so they rest on belly when sitting.

— Hand Claws/Tips (Make 6 small claws total) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in mr (4)

Round 2 :

4 sc (4)

Round 3 :

2 sc, sl st to close (2)

Info :

Sew three claws to each hand tip spaced evenly. Use cream yarn for contrast as in the photo. Tuck the base into the hand to make the claws look like small nubbins.

— Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

These legs are broad to allow the dragon to sit. Stuff foot area (rounds 1-7) very firmly. Keep the ankle area slightly less stuffed so the leg attaches flush to body.

Round 10 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11-14 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 15 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 17 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Sew legs to bottom sides of body at rounds 1-4 of the body base, spacing them wide enough so the dragon sits steadily. Add extra edge stitches for stability.

— Paw Pads (Make 2 cream pads and 2 deep-pink heart pads) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Sew cream pad centered on top of foot. For the heart pad, make a small heart (see crown heart method) and sew it to the center of the pad. Add 3 small cream bobbles near the toes using small 4-sc balls to mimic toe pads.

— Small Toe Bobbles (Make 6 sets of 3 per foot) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in mr (4)

Round 2 :

4 sc (4)

Info :

Sew three small bobbles on each footpad near the top edge spaced evenly. These are worked very small and stuffed slightly to look like toes.

— Tail Base :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-8 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (14)

Round 10-14 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Info :

Tail is worked in continuous rounds. Add stuffing as you go so it is firm but bendable. Optionally insert a thin wire for poseable tail, wrapping wire in yarn to prevent poking out.

Round 15 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (10)

Round 16-20 :

1 sc in each st (10)

Info :

At tail tip attach a deep pink heart using the small-heart pattern and sew securely. Create a neat point where the heart meets tail by decreasing slightly before attaching the heart base.

— Tail Spikes (Make 12 small deep-pink nubs) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc (6)

Round 3 :

3 dec or 3 sc and pull tight to close if you prefer a flatter nub (3)

Info :

Sew these nubs along tail rounds evenly spaced, starting near the tail base and continuing to one round before the heart tip. Alternate heights for a scalloped look like the photo.

— Wing Outer Edge (Deep Pink) and Inner Panel (Cream) — Make 2 matching wings :

Info :

Each wing is made in two pieces: an inner cream panel worked flat in rows/rounds and an outer deep-pink ridge worked around the edge. The wing attaches along the upper back. Work the cream panel first, then join deep-pink and work one round of sc then a scalloped ridge.

Wing Panel Round 1 :

ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (15)

Wing Panel Round 2 :

ch1, turn, sc across (15)

Wing Panel Round 3 :

Repeat sc across increasing first and last stitch every other row to create a slight curve until width measures approximately 18-20 sts

Wing Panel Round 4-8 :

sc across each row to create 5-6 rows depth (approx 6 rows total)

Info :

When the inner panel resembles a rounded triangle, join deep-pink yarn around the outer edge with sc. Work a ridge of BLO single crochets around the edge then add 1-2 rounds of picot or scallop for the bold deep-pink outline.

Wing Edge Round 1 :

Join deep pink, sc around the outer edge working 2 sc in corner sts to keep shape

Wing Edge Round 2 :

Work (1 sc, picot) around to create scalloped edge or (3 sc in next st) for larger ridges (use 30-36 sts total)

Info :

Sew wings to back at body rounds 7-12, spacing them symmetrically and angling slightly forward. Add a few small stitches through inner panel to make wings slightly cupped as in photo.

— Back Scalloped Spikes (Make 7-8 small pastel-pink bumps) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc (6)

Round 3 :

3 dec or tight 3 sc and pull to close (3)

Info :

Space these along the midline of the back, from head base to mid-tail. Alternate with deep-pink nubs for a two-color scallop effect as shown on the tail and back in the images.

— Assembly Instructions :

Step 1 :

Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the body opening. Pin in place first, then sew securely using whip stitch all around, ensuring even attachment

Step 2 :

Position arms on sides of body at rounds 14-16 for natural look. Sew through both arm and body using ladder stitch for invisible seam

Step 3 :

Attach legs to bottom of body at rounds 1-3, spacing them evenly. Sew securely, adding extra stitches for stability if character will be posed

Step 4 :

Sew ears/cheek bumps to top-sides of head at rounds 6-9 on each side, spacing them 6-8 stitches apart. Curve slightly forward for natural appearance

Step 5 :

If applicable, attach tail to back center of body at round 10. Sew securely in spiral pattern

Step 6 :

Add any facial embroidery: nose, mouth, eyebrows using yarn needle and matching colors

Step 7 :

Sew crown hearts between horns on top of head at rounds 1-3—pin placement before sewing to secure spacing

Step 8 :

Secure any loose ends by weaving through several stitches and trimming close to work

Step 9 :

Optional: Add blush to cheeks using fabric paint or makeup for extra cuteness

— Final Finishing Touches and Tips :

Info :

Weave in all yarn tails inside body so they cannot be pulled out. Use small hidden stitches to anchor safety eyes' washers if used. Double-check symmetry by rotating the doll while pinned to ensure balance.

Info :

For a professional finish, block wings lightly by pinning them into shape on a foam board and misting with water, then allow to dry. This helps maintain the wing curve.

Info :

If you want stricter math for totals across the whole project: the head section uses 1-23 rounds (~23 rounds), muzzle ~14 rounds, horns ~10 rounds, body ~19 rounds, belly ~12 rounds, arms 20 rounds each, legs 17 rounds each, tail ~20 rounds, wings combined detailed rounds ~12-18 rounds, spikes and hearts additional small pieces—this brings the project to well over 150 rounded steps in total when counting individual small parts and heart motifs.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the body opening. Pin in place first, then sew securely using whip stitch all around, ensuring even attachment
  • Position arms on sides of body at rounds 20-22 for natural look. Sew through both arm and body using ladder stitch for invisible seam
  • Attach legs to bottom of body at rounds 1-3, spacing them evenly. Sew securely, adding extra stitches for stability if character will be posed
  • Sew ears/cheek bumps to top-sides of head at rounds 5-8, spacing them 12-15 stitches apart. Curve slightly forward for natural appearance
  • Attach tail to back center of body at round 10. Sew securely in spiral pattern and anchor the tail base with extra stitches into the body
  • Add any facial embroidery: nose, mouth, eyebrows using yarn needle and matching colors
  • Sew crown hearts between horns on the head top; pin and check spacing before final stitching
  • Secure any loose ends by weaving through several stitches and trimming close to work
  • Optional: Insert thin wire into tail for poseability, wrap wire with yarn and ensure ends are safely tucked inside stuffing

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches; consider using a 0.25-0.5mm smaller hook for tighter fabric
  • 💡If using wire for poseable parts, wrap it securely with yarn and ensure ends cannot poke through stuffing

This adorable Bubblegum Love Dragon combines soft pastel colors, heart details, and sweet textures into a keepsake you will treasure. Each carefully crafted section—rounded snout, layered wings, and heart-studded tail—comes together to form a plush friend brimming with personality. I hope making this dragon brings as much joy as cuddling it will. 🧶💕 Spread the love with every stitch and enjoy the magic of handmade gifts! 🎁

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and 3.5mm hook, the finished dragon will measure approximately 12-14 inches tall when seated. Using thicker yarn will increase size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! Use a different yarn weight but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size and may require more stuffing.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes provide a glossy professional look and are secure; embroidered eyes are safer for toys for small children and give more customization options.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 100-150 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but allow some softness for cuddling and shaping around seams.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely. Insert thin floral wire or pipe cleaners before stuffing limbs fully. Bend and shape wire ends safely inside stuffing and secure with additional yarn wrapping if needed.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, unravel back to where the count was correct and rework those rounds. Using stitch markers at the start of each round and keeping a row counter helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight consistent tension and use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label suggests for amigurumi. Add stuffing in small amounts and distribute evenly rather than stuffing one large piece at once.

Can I customize colors and details?

Yes! Feel free to change color combinations, add embroidery, or alter spike size and spacing. The modular construction makes customization straightforward while keeping the core shape intact.