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Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎃

Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

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About This Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the tall, whimsical pink witch hat shown in the photos — a tapered cone with a long spiral curl at the tip, a slightly wide round brim and a bold black band finished with a yellow buckle. The hat is worked in continuous rounds to keep the fabric dense and neat. The spiral tip can be stuffed and wired for a controlled curl or left loose to coil naturally. Designed primarily as an amigurumi-sized hat or small table display, it’s sturdy and decorative.

Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Unique features include the long tubular spiral tip worked as a narrow round tube, a firm yet flexible brim built with increasing rounds, and a textured band finished by working in BLO for a neat ridge. The pattern includes tips for stiffening, inserting wire, and finishing the buckle.

Why You'll Love This Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it balances whimsy and structure — the tall cone is simple to shape while the spiral tip adds a playful signature detail. The color contrast of the pink body with the striking black band and golden buckle makes the hat pop visually. I also appreciate that you can make the curl as floppy or poseable as you like by adding a small length of wire or stuffing. It feels special, seasonal, and very satisfying to finish.

Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved making this pattern because it gives you so many options for customization — change the yarn to create a chunky winter hat version or try a delicate cotton for a small doll accessory.

I often switch up the band color (try metallic thread or deep plum) and resize the brim by adding or subtracting increase rounds for a miniature or oversized style. You can also experiment with a glittery yarn for the buckle or embroider tiny stars on the cone for a magical effect.

I recommend trying the wired spiral once — it makes photographing and posing the hat so satisfying. But I also enjoy the floppy, lived-in look when it's left soft and slightly scrunched.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned rows and an uneven spiral; always mark your first stitch of each round. ✗ Working too loosely creates visible gaps on the brim; use a slightly smaller hook or tighten your tension for a firm fabric. ✗ Adding the wire too late can be difficult; insert wire before closing narrow tubes to avoid sewing it in later. ✗ Not blocking or stiffening the brim leads to a floppy edge; finish with spray starch or diluted fabric glue if you want a rigid brim. ✗ Attaching the brim off-center makes the hat sit crooked; pin and measure carefully before sewing the brim and band. ✗ Rushing increases on the brim can create subtle wavy edges; count increases and keep them evenly spaced every round.

Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

A sweet, spired witch hat with a dramatic curled tip — crocheted in dusty pink with a contrasting black band and a bright yellow buckle. This pattern creates a sturdy, slightly stiff hat perfect as an amigurumi accessory or a small decoration. The tall cone, gently flared brim and whimsical spiral curl are designed to be sculpted with optional wire or light stuffing so the curl holds its shape.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Pink Spiral Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 120-140g in dusty pink (main hat)
  • 02
    50-60g in black for the hat band
  • 03
    10-15g in bright yellow for the buckle detail
  • 04
    Small amounts (5-10g) of black scrap for buckle center (optional)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for firm stitches (adjust if needed)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount for spiral tube if stuffing)
  • 04
    Thin floral wire or pipe cleaners (1 x 8-12" length) for poseable spiral tip (optional)
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 06
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and blocking
  • 09
    Optional: fabric stiffener or spray starch for brim rigidity
  • 10
    Optional: craft glue or hot glue for securing small bits during finishing

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Overview :

Info :

This pattern builds a tall conical witch hat worked from tip to brim, finishing with a wide brim worked separately then attached, plus a decorative band and buckle. You can optionally insert wire into the spiral tip for shaping or lightly stuff the spiral tube. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless noted; use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. Measurements: finished height approximately 7-8" to tip of curl (unbent), brim diameter approximately 8-9" depending on yarn and tension.

— Crown / Cone (work in Dusty Pink) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

By round 12 you have reached the intended internal circumference where the hat will sit. If you are making this for a particular amigurumi head, check fit now; adjust by adding or removing increase rounds before continuing. Mark first stitch of every round to avoid losing place.

Round 13-22 :

1 sc in each st (72) (10 rounds total) — build height, keep fabric dense and even

Info :

If you prefer a taller hat, work additional even rounds here in multiples of 2-6 rounds to keep proportions. This section should remain straight so the cone flares only near the brim.

Round 23-28 :

1 sc in each st (72) (6 rounds)

Info :

Work tightly on these rounds; on camera hat the stitches are compact and uniform. If you are seeing gaps, switch to a hook 0.25-0.5mm smaller.

Round 29 :

(10 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (66)

Round 30 :

(9 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (60)

Round 31 :

(8 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Begin subtle tapering here; we are narrowing the cone slightly to encourage it to coil toward the tip later. Do not stuff the cone — this piece is generally hollow for an amigurumi head or display. If you want a rigid internal form, insert a light cardboard cone or interfacing before finishing the brim.

Round 32 :

(7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 33 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 34 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

At round 34 the cone is narrowing; if you are making this hat to sit on a doll head, test the opening now by sliding it gently over the head shape — the base should be wide enough to sit snug but not jam. Add or reduce even rounds in earlier sections if necessary.

Round 35 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 36 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 37 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 38 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

We will create the spiral tip as a narrow tube worked in continuous rounds from this point. Keep these stitches consistent in tension — the tube should be narrow and stable. Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of round 39 and move it each round.

Round 39-58 :

1 sc in each st (12) (20 rounds) — work a long narrow tube; this will become the spiral spine

Info :

If you plan to add wire for a poseable curl, insert a length of thin floral wire or coated craft wire inside this tube before final shaping. Feed the wire through while the tube remains open; stop about 1-2" before the tip. Make sure the wire end is bent so it cannot poke through stitches.

Round 59 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)

Round 60 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (6)

Round 61 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 62 :

3 dec (3)

Round 63 :

1 sc in each st (3)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail if you want to sew the tip closed more neatly. At this point you can lightly stuff the spiral tube (if you prefer) with a small amount of fiberfill around the wire so the spiral holds and looks plump. If you used wire, bend gently into the desired swirl shape. Alternatively, do not stuff and allow the spiral to rest as a hollow tube for a lighter look.

Round 64 :

Optional finishing: sl st in next st and fasten off; weave in ends securely

Info :

To make a tighter spiral tip (as in the photo), curve the last 6-10 rounds around a finger or small dowel, then bend the wire carefully to hold that curl and stitch through the tube layers to lock the spiral shape. Use a tapestry needle to take small whip stitches through the layers of the spiral to keep it from uncoiling.

— Brim (worked in Dusty Pink, make as a separate flat disc) :

Info :

Make the brim as a separate flat disc then sew to the crown base. The brim starts at a small centre and increases rapidly to get a wide, even circle. Count your rounds carefully — the brim in the photos is fairly wide (8-9" diameter). We'll increase to 120 sts total before working a few even rounds for width.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (90)

Round 16 :

(14 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (96)

Round 17 :

(15 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (102)

Round 18 :

(16 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (108)

Round 19 :

(17 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (114)

Round 20 :

(18 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (120)

Round 21-26 :

1 sc in each st (120) (6 rounds) — build brim width and create a flat even surface

Info :

The brim in the photo has a neat rolled edge. To achieve this, after the even rounds, work one or two rounds in BLO to create a slight ridge, then finish with a round of sl st in each st to pull the edge together and create the crisp rim.

Round 27 :

1 sc in each st BLO (120)

Round 28 :

sl st in each st around (120) — neat finishing round

Info :

Block the brim flat while wet and pin it to a circular form if you want a perfectly flat brim. For a slightly upturned edge like the photo, gently steam or spray and shape the rim upward before it dries. For a sturdier brim, apply diluted fabric stiffener on the underside and let dry tightly pinned.

— Band (work in Black) :

Info :

The band is a simple strip worked to wrap around the base of the crown. You can either stitch it to the outside of the brim/crown joint or slip-stitch it in place for a clean finish. Measure circumference before finishing — aim for 72-74 sts to match the base of the crown (adjust if you changed counts above).

Round 1 :

Ch 74 (or ch to measured circumference + 1). Join with sl st to form a ring, avoiding twisting ch loop.

Round 2 :

sc in each ch around (74) — join with sl st to first sc (74)

Round 3-5 :

sc in each st around (74) (3 rounds) — band height approx 3-4 rows

Info :

Work the band in BLO for the last round to create a visible ridge if you like. Alternatively, make it two rows taller for a chunkier look. Keep long tail for sewing in place and pin around hat base before final attachment.

Round 6 :

Optional: 1 sc in each st BLO (74) — creates subtle ridge on lower edge

— Buckle (work in Yellow with small black insert) :

Info :

The buckle is a 3D square sewn to the band. Make a small black square for center if desired then surface crochet yellow around to create frame.

Black center — Round 1 :

mr, 6 sc in mr (6)

Black center — Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Black center — Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12) — fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Yellow frame — Round 1 :

Attach yellow yarn to edge of black square, ch 1, sc evenly around the black square working approx 12-14 sc depending on space; join with sl st to first sc (12-14)

Yellow frame — Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) evenly around to create thicker frame (approx 18-20 sts) — join with sl st

Yellow frame — Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around to build thickness; fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to band

Info :

Sew the buckle to the center front of the band — anchor through both band layers or around the band, using small stitches for an invisible attachment. If you prefer a flatter buckle, make only one yellow round around the black square and sew it flat to the band.

— Optional Lining / Internal Support :

Info :

If you want the hat to hold a more permanent shape or to slide smoothly over an amigurumi head, cut a lightweight conical piece of interfacing or plastic canvas to fit inside the crown and glue or stitch it in place. For a poseable spiral tip, thread wire through the narrow tube before attaching the brim. If you prefer a floppy spiral, skip the wire and only lightly stuff with fiberfill.

— Finishing Rounds and Texture Details :

Info :

Many hats like this feature subtle ridges at intervals on the cone for texture. To add those, work a round in BLO every 6-8 rounds around the cone while building height (for example after rounds 16, 24, 32). On the brim, finish with BLO and sl st rounds for crisp edges. Always weave in ends into the body, and hide tails by threading them through several rounds of stitches.

Decorative row (cone) :

Optional: After round 20, work 1 sc in each st BLO to create a horizontal ridge; continue with 1 sc in each st next round.

Decorative row (under brim) :

Optional: Join a contrasting color for a thin piping around the brim's underside with sl st, then weave in loose ends for professional look.

Info :

Double-check all joins: the brim attaches to the lower edge of the crown where the stitch count matches the brim's round at 72 or your adjusted number. If needed, add small evenly-spaced increases or decreases when attaching to match counts exactly. Pin carefully and sew with a whip stitch or mattress stitch for an invisible join.

— Edge reinforcement and final shaping :

Info :

After sewing the brim to the crown and attaching the band and buckle, block the entire hat gently to the desired shape. Steam lightly or mist with water and pin the brim and spiral into the final curved position. For extra durability, apply diluted fabric glue or a thin layer of craft stiffener to the underside of the brim, allowing it to dry flat.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin the brim to the base of the crown aligning stitch counts (match crown base round with brim inner round). Starting at the back, hand-sew with whip stitch through both edges, keeping stitches small and evenly spaced.
  • Wrap the black band around the hat at the base where the crown meets the brim (typically covering the seam). Pin in place, then sew through band and hat fabric with an invisible ladder stitch or small whip stitches to secure.
  • Position the yellow buckle at the front center of the band. Sew through the inner edge of the buckle into the band, anchoring tightly with several passes to prevent shifting.
  • If you used wire in the spiral tip, bend the exposed wire end flat and sew a few stitches around that area to prevent it from sliding. Tuck and weave the remaining tail of yarn into the tube to hide it.
  • If you added an internal interfacing or plastic canvas for structure, glue or stitch it in place before permanently joining the brim. Ensure seams are hidden and edges are smooth.
  • Weave in all loose ends through multiple stitches hidden inside the crown or under the brim using your yarn needle. Trim close to the work once secure.
  • Block or steam the hat while pinned into shape. For a curled tip like the photo, wrap the tip around a small dowel to form the curl and let it dry in place if using water-based stiffener.
  • Check final fit on the target amigurumi head or display. Make minor adjustments by re-sewing band or reshaping the spiral until satisfied.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff spiral tip lightly and insert wire before closing narrow tubes to ease shaping and prevent poking holes
  • 💡For safety with toys, avoid exposed wire unless the item is for display only; secure and cap wire ends if included
  • 💡When attaching brim, pin and count to ensure stitches match the crown circumference; adjust with small increases/decreases as needed
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates very stiff fabric while too loose shows stuffing and lumps
  • 💡For a neat band seam, sew through both band and hat and hide knots inside the band to avoid visible lumps
  • 💡Block the brim while damp and pinned to guarantee a flat, even edge and a professional finish
  • 💡If making this for a toy that will be handled by children, consider embroidering decorations instead of small glued pieces

This rosy spiral witch hat captures a playful Halloween vibe with a bold buckle and perfectly curled tip. With a combination of steady rounds and gentle shaping, each step leads to a charming finished piece you can proudly display or dress your amigurumi in. The hat's structure is forgiving — add wire for poseable fun or keep it soft and whimsical. 🧶✨ This project is fast to stitch and highly customizable — enjoy the process and make it your own! 🎃

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi hat?

With worsted weight yarn and the recommended hook, the finished hat measures roughly 7-8" tall to the base of the curl and has a brim diameter of approximately 8-9". Altering yarn weight or hook size will change these dimensions proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use a thicker yarn and larger hook for a larger, chunkier hat or a finer yarn and smaller hook for a smaller hat. Remember to adjust stitch counts only if you want to change overall circumference; otherwise expect proportional changes in finished size.

Is the spiral tip wired?

The pattern provides optional instructions for inserting thin floral wire or similar into the spiral tube before closing. For display pieces, wire provides a poseable curl; for toys or children, omit wire for safety and instead lightly stuff for shape.

How do I prevent the brim from becoming floppy?

Block the brim while damp and pin it flat; apply diluted fabric stiffener or a light coat of spray starch for a firmer brim. You can also insert a thin plastic canvas disc cut to size inside the brim for permanent rigidity.

How much stuffing will I need?

This hat uses minimal fiberfill if stuffing the spiral — approximately 10-20 grams. If you stuff the entire crown (not typical), expect to need more. Most of the structure comes from crocheted fabric and optional interfacing.

What if my stitch count is off when joining brim and crown?

If counts differ, add or remove small evenly spaced sc stitches while attaching to match counts. It's better to distribute 4-6 extra stitches or decreases evenly than to force an exact match by skipping irregularly.

Can I make the band and buckle removable?

Yes — sew only one side of the band, or attach the buckle with a few removable stitches so you can swap colors or styles for different looks.

Can this fit an amigurumi head or a small doll?

Yes — the base circumference is sized to sit on small amigurumi heads. To adapt for a specific doll, check base measurement at round 12 of crown and adjust increases or stitch count as needed.