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Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern

Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a tiny bat-like amigurumi with a stacked head-and-body silhouette, two large sweeping wings with a darker edge, and two smaller lower wing/leg pieces. The main yarn is a bright cyan tone with deep blue used for the wing trim and tiny horn/ear details. The face is minimalist: two large black safety eyes and a short embroidered mouth line for a charming, sleepy expression. The shape is compact — designed to fit comfortably in the palm of your hand.

Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern focuses on modular, repeatable pieces (spheres and wing shells) so you can easily customize size and colors. The contrast edging is worked after the wings are assembled to give a crisp, defined silhouette.

Why You'll Love This Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it captures so much personality with very simple shapes. The oversized wings with the deep-blue trim make the little bat instantly expressive, and I adore how the stacked body gives it an animated, bouncy posture. I also enjoy that the pattern is modular — you can swap colors or make it poseable with wire to create unique variations.

Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The basic construction — stacked spheres and shell-style wings — is forgiving, so you can easily tweak shapes or sizes to suit your taste.

I often switch up colors: try pastel pink body with charcoal trim for a softer look, or deep purple with silver edging for a more mystical version. You can also make the wings stiffer by inserting thin felt or cardboard and stitching the trim over it, or add wire for poseability.

I like to personalize faces by changing eye placement or embroidery: angled eyes for a mischievous bat, or a tiny embroidered smile for extra sweetness. Don't be afraid to play with the scale — thicker yarn and a larger hook will give you a huggable plush, while smaller yarn will create a tiny keychain friend.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Forgetting to place safety eyes before heavy stuffing makes it impossible to seat them correctly later; add eyes when instructed ✗ Changing hook sizes mid-project without adjusting stitch counts will alter proportions and can make assembly awkward ✗ Pulling color-change tails too tight can distort the wing or seam edge; keep tension even when finishing color changes

Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern

This sweet, pocket-sized bat amigurumi features big layered wings, a rounded two-part body, button-like safety eyes, and a cute embroidered mouth. Worked in bright cyan with a deep blue contrast edging, the plush has a playful, chubby silhouette and small antennae/ears on top. It's the perfect Halloween buddy or year-round kawaii companion, small enough to hold in one hand yet full of character.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Tiny Blue Bat Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 80-100g in bright cyan (main color shown)
  • 02
    30-40g in deep navy or dark blue for contrast edging and small details
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-15g) in black for embroidered mouth and optional facial details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    2.75mm (C) crochet hook for tighter fabric on small pieces (optional)
  • 03
    8mm or 10mm safety eyes (use 10mm for look in photo)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly
  • 09
    Optional: Thin floral wire for poseable wings or limbs
  • 10
    Optional: Fabric glue for securing knots or safety eyes (if desired for non-child safety)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, approximately 10-12 stitches apart measured across the front depending on expression. For the look in the photo, position eyes about 11 stitches apart (counting between the centers).

Round 13-14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Embroider a short horizontal mouth between the eyes later; mark center line to keep symmetry. Begin to watch shaping so you can start stuffing soon.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 16 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Start stuffing the head firmly but not overly tight — the face should be round and smooth. Add small amounts of stuffing, pushing into the front for a round snout, and more toward back for balance.

Round 17 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 19 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 20 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Leave the opening at the top of the head loose for sewing to the thorax later. Fasten off if you prefer to close after assembling, or leave a long tail to seam to the neck piece. Weave no tail yet if you plan to attach later by slip stitch.

— Thorax / Upper Body (small stacked sphere behind head) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

This sphere sits directly behind the head to create the stacked look. It should be slightly smaller than the head so proportions match the photo. Use slightly looser stuffing than the head to keep it softer and allow a seamless join.

Round 8 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 10 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Leave a long tail for sewing if you plan to stitch this piece to the head from the back. Alternatively, stuff lightly and close with a few slip stitches, then join by sewing through both pieces for a flush seam.

— Lower Body / Belly Sphere :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

This bottom sphere forms the base of the figure and helps your bat sit upright. Stuff firmly so it provides stable support for the rest of the body. If you want the figure to sit more securely, you can insert a small poker of plastic pellets into the very bottom before finishing the stuffing.

Round 10 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 13 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Leave a long tail for attaching this bottom sphere to the thorax piece. Align it so the thorax sits on top and the head faces forward. When you sew, keep the seam tight to avoid gaps.

— Large Wing (Make 2) :

Info :

Wings are worked flat in rows in the round to form a tapered, scalloped shape. These instructions create a wing approximately proportionate to the head/torso. Work both wings in main color (bright cyan), then add dark-blue edging in a separate round.

Round 1 :

Ch 11, join to create a narrow oval base with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (10 sc), 3 sc in last chain, continue on opposite side of chain: sc across 9, sl st to first sc to join (22 sts total including corners)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each st around, at chain-ends work 3 sc in corner sts to maintain shape (22)

Round 3 :

Ch1, (1 sc, inc) at seven equally spaced positions along the long sides to widen slightly: work an inc every 3-4 sts to create (approx 28)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (28)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 5 then sc remaining stitches across to form the first outward bulge (33)

Info :

At this stage the wing will look like a small petal; the outer edge will later get a scalloped trim. Keep your tension even for a flat surface. If you prefer a stiffer wing, use a slightly smaller hook for the outer rounds or add a thin piece of craft felt inside when assembling.

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st (33)

Round 9 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 5 then sc across (38)

Round 10-12 :

1 sc in each st (38)

Round 13 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 5 then sc across (43)

Round 14-16 :

1 sc in each st (43)

Info :

Shape the wing by gently pulling the outer edge forward; this helps form the bat-like sweep. Block lightly with steam or a damp towel if you want the wing to hold its shape permanently.

Round 17 :

Start decreasing slightly to taper the tip: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 4 then sc remaining across (approx 39)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (39)

Round 19 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 4 then sc across (approx 35)

Round 20-21 :

1 sc in each st (35)

Round 22 :

Work a scalloped edge by: *sl st in next st, (3 dc, sl st) in following st* around the outer edge only (work scallops evenly spaced; approx 10-12 scallops)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in the tail. Repeat to make the second large wing. Once both wings are made, we will add a contrasting edging in deep blue. If adding internal wire for posing, insert thin floral wire along the central span now and tack lightly with a few stitches before edging.

Info :

Edge: Join deep blue to the outermost edge with sl st, then (1 sc, sl st) or (1 sc in each st) across for a tight contrasting line. For the scalloped outer rim, work sl st, (3 dc, sl st) in each scallop peak in contrast color.

— Small Lower Wing / Leg (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Ch7, join to start oval: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6), 3 sc in final chain, sc across opposite side (5), sl st to first (14)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 3 then sc across (17)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (17)

Round 7 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 4 then sc across (21)

Round 8-10 :

1 sc in each st (21)

Round 11 :

Work a small scallop along outer rim: *sl st, (2 dc, sl st) in next st* around outer edge only (approx 8 scallops)

Info :

These serve as the smaller lower appendages that sit under the head in the finished toy. Edge them with deep-blue yarn as you did the large wings for a cohesive look.

— Horns / Tiny Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2-6 :

1 sc in each st (6) (work in continuous rounds to create a short tube, approx 6 rounds long)

Info :

Stuff minimally or leave hollow for a slight floppy horn. Attaching these to the top of the thorax just behind the head gives the bat its antennae-like look. Make them in contrast dark-blue or in main color — photo shows dark-blue horns.

— Wing Edge (Contrast Trim) :

Info :

Use deep navy / dark blue. Join at a corner or a sl st in the outermost round. Work 1 sc in each outer loop around; when you hit scallop peaks, work sl st followed by (3 dc, sl st) into the peak for a raised scalloped trim. This border visually separates wing shapes and matches the photo.

— Face Details :

Info :

Sew in safety eyes if not already. Embroider a short horizontal mouth using black yarn between the eyes at the front center: thread a yarn needle and make 2-3 small horizontal satin stitches to create a short bar mouth. You can also add a tiny white french knot stitch at the corner of each eye for a reflected highlight if desired.

— Assembly :

Info :

Block all wings gently if needed, making sure the dark-blue edge sits nicely. Pin parts to the body with the head centered above the lower body sphere, thorax between head and bottom sphere. Position wings so large wings connect to thorax sides and small lower wings attach near the base of the head/neck for the look in the photo.

Round 1 :

Sewing detail: Use a mattress stitch or ladder stitch to invisibly seam the thorax to the head — stitch through corresponding rounds to seat them tightly. Repeat to stitch thorax to bottom body. Use the long tails left earlier to sew; fasten off and weave ends into the body.

Info :

When attaching wings, sew through both wing base and a couple rounds of the thorax to ensure a sturdy join. Use small whip stitches spaced evenly around the wing root to prevent floppy wings. If using wire inside wings, be sure to tuck and secure the wire ends before sewing so they do not poke through the surface.

Info :

Finally, secure horns to the top of the thorax behind the head by sewing through 2-3 stitches at their base. Keep stitches small and tight so they stand upright. Add any final shaping to wings and position legs as desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to thorax by aligning the bottom of the head opening with the top of the thorax. Pin in place, then sew through both pieces using a mattress stitch, working evenly around to avoid gaps.
  • Sew thorax to lower body sphere by matching the rounds where they will sit flush; use whip stitch or ladder stitch and stuff slightly while sewing to maintain roundness.
  • Attach large wings to the sides of the thorax at about the mid-rows: pin so the inner wing base aligns with rounds 3-6 of the thorax, then sew securely with small whip stitches around the wing base.
  • Attach the two small lower wings/legs under the head area: position them so they slightly overlap the front of the lower body and sew through both the wing base and 1-2 rounds of the lower body for reinforcement.
  • Sew horns/antennae to the top back of the thorax, approximately 6-8 stitches apart. Use a few tight stitches at each base and secure ends inside the body.
  • Embroider the mouth between the eyes using small satin stitches. Weave in and trim all yarn tails and check for any loose stitches; apply a small drop of fabric glue at knots if desired for extra security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
  • 💡If adding wire inside wings, cover wire ends with tape or thick yarn and sew them well inside the wing body to avoid poking through

This charming little bat combines simple spheres with dramatic wings and contrasting trim for a look that's both playful and polished. Each carefully crocheted piece comes together to form a compact, huggable companion that makes a wonderful gift or seasonal decoration. I hope you enjoy stitching, stuffing, and customizing this tiny blue bat — it's a fast, rewarding project with delightful results! 🧶🦇

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished piece will measure approximately 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) from top of head to bottom of body and a wingspan of about 14-18 cm (5.5-7 inches). Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure, perfect for gifts. Embroidered eyes are ideal for young children as they have no small parts, and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight, allowing the piece to maintain its shape while still being cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely! Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire before stuffing limbs completely. Bend wire to desired shape, ensuring ends are folded over safely, then continue stuffing around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also add accessories, change facial expressions, or adjust proportions slightly to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.