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Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern

Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the bright red, heart-holding dragon shown in the photos: a compact amigurumi with a rounded head, prominent muzzle, shiny black eyes, a row of triangular spikes down the head and tail, folded bat-like wings, chubby arms and legs, and little darker-red claws. The dragon's hands cup a small matching heart so it looks like it is giving a gift. The texture uses single crochet in spiral rounds with some BLO work to define wing ridges and clothing-like edges. The overall look is cuddly, slightly rounded, and perfectly balanced to sit upright.

Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will receive full round-by-round instructions for every visible part: head, muzzle, ears, spikes, body, arms, legs, wings, tail, claws and the tiny heart accessory. Frequent Info sections guide you on eye placement, stuffing, color changes and assembly to ensure a neat finish.

Why You'll Love This Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because the pose — a small dragon gently holding a heart — is irresistibly sweet and makes the finished piece feel personal. I also enjoy the small details: the darker claws, the ridge created on the wings, and the tiny cone spikes that line the back and tail. The construction is satisfying, with clear shaping that lets you get neat, rounded forms while still being a fun weekend-sized project.

Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved putting together this pattern because the little variations you can add make each dragon feel unique. Try changing spike color or using a variegated yarn for the belly to give a different personality.

I often customize the pose — slightly longer arms make the dragon look like it is offering the heart even more eagerly. You can also make the wings larger or smaller by adding or subtracting increase rounds to change the wing span. If you want a sleepy look, embroider the eyes closed; for a bright look, use larger safety eyes. Have fun experimenting with small details like eyebrow placement, claw color, or heart size to truly make the dragon your own.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round. ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project. ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results. ✗ Forgetting to place safety eyes before too much stuffing will make eye placement impossible; secure eyes between the recommended rounds. ✗ Sewing pieces without pinning first can result in uneven placement; pin all parts and check symmetry before final stitching. ✗ Not weaving in tails securely leads to loose seams; weave ends through several rounds and knot inside for a tidy finish. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for yarn will cause stuffing to show through; use a slightly smaller hook than yarn label recommends for amigurumi.

Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern

Make a cuddly little dragon who holds a tiny heart — a perfect handmade gift for valentines, birthdays, or cozy décor. This pattern recreates the pictured plush red dragon with pointed spikes, folded wings, chubby limbs, and an adorable heart accessory. The pattern includes step-by-step round-by-round instructions, stuffing and assembly tips, and notes for color accents on claws and spikes. A charming project for an intermediate crocheter who loves detailed amigurumi.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Red Heart Dragon Holding a Little Heart Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 140-160g in bright red (main color seen)
  • 02
    30-40g in dark red/maroon for claws, spikes tips and heart accent
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-15g) in black for optional embroidered nostrils or eyebrow details
  • 04
    Optional small scraps in pink or blush for cheek details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter details and smaller pieces (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 10mm black (2) or 12mm depending on preference
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces together
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and placement
  • 09
    Optional: thin floral wire for poseable wings/limbs
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing safety eyes (if gifting to small children)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10-17 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 14 and 15, approximately 10-12 sts apart depending on your preferred expression; mark the right eye position first. If using 10mm eyes, 10-12 sts spacing creates the look shown. Embroider small eyebrows later using a few short satin stitches between rounds 16-17.

Round 18 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 19 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly now, add small amounts at a time to keep a round, smooth shape. Focus extra stuffing just under the eyes and around the brow to keep a slightly pronounced forehead like the sample.

Round 21 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing so head is firm but still soft to the touch. Close opening using a yarn needle and the tail, weaving the closing seam inside several rounds for a neat finish. Set head aside or attach to neck when body is ready.

— Muzzle / Snout :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

After round 7, position muzzle on head to determine how deep you want the muzzle to sit. The example has it placed so the muzzle begins around round 13 of the head and projects forward about 5-6 rounds.

Round 8 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 10 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff muzzle lightly to maintain a slightly firm rounded nose. Sew the muzzle to the head aligning its base at head rounds 12-14 and centering it between the eyes. Use ladder stitch or whip stitch and work through several rounds on both pieces for a secure join.

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

1 sc in next 6 sts, FLO next 6 sts, 1 sc in last 6 sts (18)

Info :

Fold the ear slightly by taking the FLO ridge and tacking it with a slip stitch or sewing into the body later to create the folded appearance visible in the image. Position ears at head rounds 6-8 on each side, slightly angled forward.

Round 6 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (14)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Pin ears in place on head before final stitching to ensure even placement and angle. Sew through several stitches and secure tail inside head using extra yarn tucked inside.

— Spikes / Horns (Make 7 - 3 large on head, 4 small down tail) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Round 7 :

6 dec (4) - shape tip

Info :

Make 3 slightly larger spikes for the head (stop after round 6 and do not close completely so they keep a cone shape), and 4 smaller spikes for the tail (make one extra smaller by reducing to 12 sts at round 3 and finishing at round 6). Sew large spikes evenly along head top: first spike centered at head top, second and third spaced to left and right about 6-8 sts apart. Sew tail spikes evenly along top of tail, leaving even space between each spike.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-14 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

If you want a slightly larger belly, add two extra rounds even at 42 sts. The pictured dragon has a plump rounded belly, so keep rounds 8-14 even to create that volume. Begin stuffing body at round 12 so you can achieve the rounded base and attach legs later.

Round 15 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 16 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 17 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 18 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Stop decreasing when you have a round that will easily accept the neck insertion (we will leave the top open for head attachment). Stuff body firmly but keep the top opening slightly unstuffed so you can sew the neck of the head in. You can also use a small chopstick to push stuffing into tight areas like armpits.

Round 19 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 20 :

6 sc (12) - leave opening for neck

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the head. If you prefer to crochet the neck separately and insert it, you can add 2-4 rounds of a tube at the top (1 sc in each st) to create a neck to sew the head to. Align head and body so the muzzle sits slightly forward over the belly when attached.

— Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

These rounds build the hand/paw. The hands in the picture are rounded and slightly cupped. Stuff the hand part firmly now to keep shape. When attaching the little heart, you will sew into the palm area across rounds 3-6.

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (14)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Round 13 :

(3 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc (18) - shape wrist to upper arm

Round 14-18 :

1 sc in each st (18) - lengthen upper arm

Info :

Stuff hand part firmly and upper arm lightly so the arms are pliable but full. Leave a long tail for sewing and position arms so they sit slightly forward on the body, around body rounds 10-14 on each side for the pictured hugging pose. Sew through several rows of both arm and body for stability.

— Paw Claws / Fingertips (Make 6 small claws) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring in dark red (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc (6)

Round 3 :

sl st into next st and fasten off leaving tail for sewing small claw to paw tip

Info :

Sew three small claws to each foot front as shown in the photo, using a darker red for contrast. Place claws evenly across the foot tip and secure with several stitches for durability.

— Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-8 :

1 sc in each st (24) - foot base

Round 9 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 10-16 :

1 sc in each st (30) - build leg length

Round 17 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 18 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 19-22 :

1 sc in each st (18) - shape upper leg

Round 23 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 24 :

6 sc (12) - leave opening for sewing

Info :

Stuff feet firmly and legs moderately. Attach legs to bottom of body so the dragon can sit: position each leg at body base around rounds 2-6, with a slight outward angle so the feet rest on the surface. Sew through several rounds to secure.

— Wings (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st BLO (24) - creates a defined edge ridge

Round 7-9 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 10 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 11-13 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 14 :

FLO 1 sc in next 5 sts, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next 5 sts, skip 2 sts, (creates scalloped inner wing edge) (30)

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Fold wing to create bat-like folds by sewing small tucks along the inner edge. Use pins to mark the three scallop points visible in the photo: about 6-8 sts inward from the outer edge create the wing fingers. Sew wings to upper back at body rounds 8-12, angling them slightly outward and down.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, dec) x 5 (25) - taper wing tip

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (25)

Round 21 :

(3 sc, dec) x 5 (20)

Round 22 :

sl st around edge to give neat finish, fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

— Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-8 :

1 sc in each st (18) - expand tail base

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 10-18 :

1 sc in each st (12) - tail length

Round 19 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Round 20-22 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 23 :

(1 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Round 24-25 :

1 sc in each st (6) - finish tip

Info :

Sew the tail to the lower back of the body around body rounds 2-6. Add the small spikes along the top of the tail with even spacing; use the smaller spike pieces made earlier and secure them with strong stitches so they follow the curve of the tail as shown in the photos.

— Small Heart Accessory :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in next 6 sts, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 1 sc in next 6 sts (15) - shape heart lobes

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (15)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3, 1 sc in remaining 3 sts (12)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 7 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Round 8 :

Finish stuffing heart lightly, close with 4 sc dec (4), fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew heart to the palms of both hands so it looks like the dragon is holding it in a cradled position. Alternatively, make the heart detachable by sewing a small loop at the back of the heart and attaching with a yarn button so it can be removed.

— Assembly and Finishing Touches :

Info :

Before sewing pieces together, weave in all loose tails partially but leave enough to secure pieces. Pin and arrange legs, arms and wings to achieve the pose seen in the photos. Use photos as a guide to spacing: legs outward at body base, arms slightly forward and hands cupping in front, wings low on upper back, head centered on top. Use extra sturdy thread or yarn when sewing limbs onto the body to prevent loosening.

Info :

Sew the head to the top opening of the body; if you prefer a neck, crochet a 6-8 round tube and sew tube into body and head for more height. Embroider small nostrils on the muzzle using two short satin stitches with dark yarn between rounds 6-7 of the muzzle. Add subtle eyebrow stitches above the eyes to match the expression.

Info :

Weave all ends into body so they are hidden and secure. If gifting to young children, consider embroidering eyes rather than using safety eyes. Optionally add a dab of fabric glue behind safety eyes for extra security. Lightly press cheeks with a small dab of blush or fabric paint if desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the top opening of the body (body round 20). Pin in place first, then sew securely using whip stitch or mattress stitch all around, ensuring the muzzle sits slightly forward over the belly.
  • Position arms on the sides of the body at rounds 10-14 to achieve the hugging pose. Pin each arm so the palms meet at the center, then sew through both arm and body for several rounds using a sturdy yarn and small stitches.
  • Attach legs to bottom of body at rounds 1-6, spacing them evenly about 10-12 stitches apart. Angle them slightly outward so the dragon sits stably; sew with extra reinforcement for a stable base.
  • Sew ears to top sides of the head at approximately head rounds 6-8, spacing them 10-12 stitches from the top center. Tuck the FLO fold inside and secure with a few stitches for the folded ear look.
  • Sew wings to the upper back at body rounds 8-12. Pin the scalloped inner edge to create the three fingered wing shape, tack with small stitches and then fully secure the base with a tight whip stitch.
  • Attach tail to the lower back at body rounds 2-6. Sew tail in a spiral pattern from base to tip. Add the row of tail spikes by sewing smaller spike pieces to the top of the tail at even intervals.
  • Sew the tiny heart between the two hands; align the heart so its center lines with the space between palms and tack with several invisible stitches through both palms to hold it firmly.
  • Add final embroidered details (nostrils, eyebrows) with a yarn needle and darker red or black yarn. Weave in and trim remaining tails, then make small test sits to adjust balance if needed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs.
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric.
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams.
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry.
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches yet not so tight that stuffing is impossible to insert.
  • 💡Label and group small pieces (spikes, claws) so you don't lose track during assembly.

This adorable dragon combines classic amigurumi shaping with sweet styling — especially the tiny heart it holds — making it a perfect handmade gift or shelf companion. Each part builds up into a friendly face, chubby limbs and elegant wings, offering really satisfying assembly. Enjoy the rhythmic rounds as the pieces come together into a lovable dragon you can be proud to share. 🧶❤️✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and 3.5mm hook with worsted weight yarn, the finished dragon will measure approximately 18-22 cm (7-8.5 inches) tall when seated. Using thicker yarn and a larger hook will increase size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure. Embroidered eyes are ideal for young children as they have no small parts and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 80-120 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight, allowing the piece to maintain its shape while still being cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely! Insert thin floral wire or pipe cleaners before stuffing limbs completely. Bend wire ends into loops to avoid poking through the crochet fabric, then continue stuffing around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also add accessories, change facial expressions, or adjust proportions slightly to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.