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Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.4K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐥

Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you to crochet a realistic budgerigar (budgie) with wired legs and detailed feathers. It includes full instructions for the legs, head-body, wings, feathers, tail, forehead, cere and beak. The design uses Etamin fine yarn, thin bobbin thread for texture and small wire frames to shape legs and feathers for a lifelike finish.

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will find step-by-step rounds, photos referenced in the instructions, and a cheat sheet for invisible closures. The pattern is suitable for crocheters comfortable with shaping, wirework and finishing techniques.

Why You'll Love This Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines delicate crochet with simple wirework to create a very lifelike little bird. I enjoy the way wired feathers and a tail give the budgie a natural posture and a refined silhouette. The pattern offers both structure (wired legs and tail) and soft crochet shaping, which I find very satisfying to assemble. The step-by-step rounds and photos make it easy for me to follow along and achieve consistent, polished results every time.

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love to experiment with color when making this budgerigar — try pastel shades for a soft, nursery-friendly bird or bright colors for a playful display piece.

I often change yarn weight and hook size to create different scales: use a thicker yarn and larger hook for a chunky, cuddly version or a thinner thread for tiny keychain-sized budgies.

I sometimes replace wired feather frames with starching for a softer feather look, or add more wire for posability if I want the tail and wings to hold dramatic poses.

I like to embellish cheeks with tiny beads or sequins instead of embroidered spots for a sparkly accent; sew them on carefully and secure with glue for longevity.

I customize the eyes too — try small safety eyes, black beads, or embroidered eyes depending on the intended recipient (toy for children should avoid loose small parts).

To make a boy or girl budgerigar, change the cere color: blue shades for boys and beige/light brown for girls to reflect natural coloring.

For gift sets, I make multiple birds in coordinated colorways and place them on a decorative wooden perch or a small planter for a charming display.

I also experiment with adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf or a tiny hat to make seasonal or themed birds for holidays.

If you want more texture, try using a slightly fuzzy thread in the body while keeping the head smooth for contrast; this adds visual interest and a soft feel.

When making a mini version for keychains, skip the wired legs and reduce the tail length, then insert a small keyring through the stuffing area before closing to attach it securely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the step of wrapping and fixing the wire toes can cause unstable legs; wrap the yarn on the wire tips, fix with PVA glue and let dry before assembling. ✗ Tightening the magic ring too early makes the piece uneven; close the ring but do not tighten until instructed, direct the tail inward instead of shortening it. ✗ Not stuffing during shaping results in lumps or hollow shapes; stuff gradually while crocheting and shape with a skewer so the frame does not show through. ✗ Not using a smaller hook than yarn recommends causes loose stitches and visible gaps; use the specified 1.25 mm steel hook for Etamin for tight, neat amigurumi fabric. ✗ Skipping stitch alignment checks leads to offset patterns on the front; fold the work along the initial chain and adjust loop offset if the marking thread is not centered.

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Create a lifelike budgerigar amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will learn how to build a wired leg frame, shape the head and body, and make delicate wired feathers and tail. Clear step-by-step rounds, assembly instructions and finishing tips help you achieve a neat, professional result. Perfect for gifting or adding a charming handmade companion to your home.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - light blue-425 (for blue budgerigar)
  • 02
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - blue-462 (used for both blue and green budgerigar accents)
  • 03
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - beige-448 (muzzle/beak and accents)
  • 04
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - white-421 (head/muzzle for blue bird)
  • 05
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - grey-449 (for blue budgerigar shading)
  • 06
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - yellow-461 (for green budgerigar muzzle/forehead)
  • 07
    YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - green-438 (for green budgerigar body)
  • 08
    Consumption: main color ~6 g, additional colors ~3 g each; small quantities of other colors for details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Steel crochet hook size 1.25 mm (#8 US) for Etamin
  • 02
    Fine navy blue or olive green bobbin thread for detailing
  • 03
    Fiberfill for stuffing
  • 04
    A wooden skewer or a toothpick with a broken tip for stuffing and shaping
  • 05
    Tapestry needle for sewing parts
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Round pliers and wire cutters
  • 08
    Wire for needlework (steel wire 0.5 mm diameter or copper wire 1 mm thick for feet; bead wire 0.5 mm thick for feather frames)
  • 09
    Textile band-aid (for limiting the leg frame)
  • 10
    5 mm black half round beads - 2 PCS (for eyes)
  • 11
    Moment Crystal Glue
  • 12
    PVA Glue
  • 13
    Sequins or beads for spots with diameter 2 mm - 6 PCS (or embroider spots or draw with marker)
  • 14
    Thread for tightening the tail

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Leg - make two :

Info :

We make leg with toes on a wire frame.

Step 1 :

Cut 4 pieces of wire 8 cm (3 inch) long.

Step 2 :

On the tip of the wire, we wind the yarn in a single layer 16 mm (0,6 inch) long, moisten it with PVA glue and fix the tip with a clip. Let it dry.

Step 3 :

We don't cut the thread from the fourth toe. Put your toes together and continue to wrap, forming a leg. The winding length is 3 cm (1,2 inch). It can also be impregnated with PVA glue.

Step 4 :

We make the limiter with a pair of turns with a textile band-aid at a height of 2 cm (0,8 inch) from the toes. The leg is ready.

Step 5 :

Repeat for the second leg.

Info :

We crochet in a spiral.

Row 1 :

6 sc in MC, we close the ring, but do not tighten it! We direct the tail from the ring inward, but do not crochet or shorten.

Row 2-3 :

6 sc

Row 4 :

(inc, 2 sc) * 2 = 8, to close the work invisibly without skipping the loop = 9 (cheat sheet)

Info :

We insert the wire foot into the amigurumi circle, but do not tighten it. Put the foot aside. Crochet the second same foot.

— Head-body :

Row 1 :

ch 5, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc on the other side of the chain = 8

Row 2 :

(inc, 2 sc, inc) * 2 = 12

Row 3 :

(sc, inc) * 6 = 18

Row 4 :

(2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

Row 5 :

(3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

Info :

Check that the marking thread runs exactly in the center of the front. It is convenient to fold the figure in half along the initial chain - then the displacement is clearly visible. If it necessary, we crochet loops offset.

Row 6-8 :

30 sc

Row 9 :

(inc, 14 sc) * 2 = 32 + LO

Row 10 :

32 sc

Info :

Change the thread to green / blue.

Row 11 :

inc, 31 sc = 33

Row 12 :

inc, 32 sc = 34

Row 13 :

(inc, 16 sc) * 2 = 36 + LO

Row 14 :

(inc, 17 sc) * 2 = 38

Row 15 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc = 41

Row 16 :

(inc, 19 sc) * 2, inc = 44

Row 17 :

44 sc

Row 18 :

inc, 42 sc, inc = 46 + LO

Row 19-21 :

46 sc

Row 22 :

inc, 44 sc, inc = 48

Row 23-27 :

48 sc + LO

Row 28 :

dec, 46 sc = 47

Row 29 :

dec, 45 sc = 46

Row 30 :

dec, 44 sc = 45

Row 31 :

dec, 41 sc, dec = 43

Row 32 :

3 sc, dec, 33 sc, dec, 3 sc = 41

Row 33 :

7 sc, dec, 23 sc, dec, 7 sc = 39

Info :

Partially fill the toy with fiberfill (photo 1).

Row 34 :

dec, sc, 5 join sc with thigh, 2 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 2 sc, 5 join sc with thigh, sc, dec = 32 (photo 2-3, scheme). Attention! The number of loops in a row does not match the arithmetic operations, since we crocheted 5 loops per thigh, and left 4 loops each.

Info :

Since the bird's body is partially stuffed and almost finished, we can determine the length of the legs in accordance with the proportions of the resulting figure (it depends heavily on the chosen yarn and knitting density).

Info :

Measure the desired length of the leg and above this point, wrap a textile band-aid limiter in several layers. The thickness of the stopper should allow you to push it deep into the leg. Now you can pull the end of the thread and pull the amigurumi circle completely.

Row 35 :

dec, 4 sc on the leg, 20 sc on the body, 4 sc on the leg, dec = 30

Row 36 :

7 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc = 28

Row 37 :

2 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 2 sc = 26

Row 38 :

5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc = 24

Row 39 :

3 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 3 sc = 22

Row 40 :

sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, sc = 20

Row 41 :

sc, dec, sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, sc = 16

Info :

Fill the body with fiberfill.

Row 42 :

thru.dec, dec, 8 sc, dec, thru.dec = 12

Row 43 :

thru.dec, dec, 4 sc, dec, thru.dec = 8, fasten off, leaving a long thread for sewing the tail.

Info :

Fill the body with fiberfill finally. Bend the legs to a natural position. Bend toes - 2 forward and 2 back. Give the toes a curved shape with round pliers. Trim and file nails to prevent scratching.

— Wings :

Info :

Crochet yellow/white yarn with the addition of olive/dark blue fine bobbin thread.

Row 1 :

ch 6, inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 4 sc, sl st, ch, turn = 12 (photo 2)

Row 2 :

inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 3 :

inc, 7 sc, inc, ch, turn = 11

Row 4 :

inc, 4 sc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, 2 dc, inc dc, turn = 14 (photo 3)

Row 5 :

inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, 7 sc, 3 sc in 1, 11 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, continue crocheting in the same direction.

Row 6 :

inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 7 hdc, inc hdc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, fasten off (photo 4). Cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing. Crochet the second same wing.

— Feathers :

Info :

Wing feathers should be carefully starched or crocheted with carcass wire. I prefer to use 0.5 mm thick copper wire in the yarn winding.

Feather 1 :

ch 3, (photo 1) add wrapped wire, sc in the bend of the wire (photo 2), 3 sc, sc in the same loop where the chain began, 2 sc on the base, turn.

Feather 2 :

(photo 3), skip 2, 3 sc, ch 3 (photo 4), sc in the band of the wire, 6 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, sc on the base (photo 5), turn.

Feather 3 :

skip 1, 7 sc, ch 3, sc in the band of the wire, 10 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, 5 sc on the base (photo 6), turn.

Feather 4 :

skip 1, 15 sc, 6 ch (photo 1), sc in the band of the wire, 21 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, 3 sc on the base, sl st (photo 2), to close the work invisibly without skipping the loop (photo 3).

Info :

Repeat for the second wing in the same way, without mirroring anything. The difference in the turning rows will not be noticeable. And the edges of the base will be sewn to the body.

— Tail :

Info :

I also lay a frame wire with a winding in the tail so that I do not have to starch.

Feather 1 :

ch 25, 23 sc (photo 1-2), 3 sc in 1, 23 sc.

Feather 2 :

2 sc in the band of the wire, then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in the wire, turn, 15 sc, for both edges of the loop: inc.

Feather 3 :

inc, then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in the wire, turn, 15 sc, sc, sl st. Fasten the thread, hide the end of the thread inside the single crochets.

Info :

Bend the base of the tail with a corner, insert the tail into the remaining hole on the body. Sew on the tail with the end of the yarn left on the body.

— Forehead & cheeks :

Info :

Crochet yellow/white yarn in one thread.

Row 1 :

ch 6, 5 sc, ch, turn = 5

Row 2 :

inc, 3 sc, inc, ch, turn = 7

Row 3 :

inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 4-5 :

9 sc, ch, turn

Row 6 :

dec, 5 sc, dec, ch, turn = 7

Row 7 :

dec, 3 sc, dec, ch, turn = 5

Row 8 :

dec, sc, dec = 3

Info :

Crochet in a circle with sc, make increase so that the muzzle will be smooth, sl st, ch (photo 1).

Row 9 :

3 sc, ch, turn = 3

Row 10 :

inc, sc, inc, ch, turn = 5

Row 11 :

(dc, 5 htr, dc) in 1, 3 sc, (dc, 5 htr, dc), sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (photo 2).

— Cere :

Info :

Crochet in one thread in blue or brown.

Instruction :

Ch 3, 4 sc in 1, 4 sc in 1, sl st (photo 3). Cut the thread, leaving the tip for sewing.

— Beak :

Info :

We crochet in a spiral around the chain by beige yarn.

Row 1 :

ch 4, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc = 6 (photo 4)

Row 2 :

dec, 4 sc = 5

Row 3 :

dec, 3 sc = 4, fill with leftover yarn. Pull the hole by the front loops, leaving a long tail for sewing.

— Assembly :

Step 1 :

We sew the forehead behind both edges of the loops. The cheeks must cover the color change step, and the edge of the forehead is located in the middle of the initial chain of the parrot's head.

Step 2 :

We sew the beak with invisible stitches.

Step 3 :

We sew the cere on both edges of the loops, bending the upper edge so that the holes of the initial chain form the nostrils.

Step 4 :

Glue the eyes under the forehead. Please note: the eyes of the birds are located almost on the sides of the head. In animals, the eyes are located in front of the head.

Step 5 :

We embroider black spots on the cheeks with threads, beads or sequins, we embroider a blue stroke, as on photo.

Step 6 :

Give the toes a slightly curved shape. Bend the tips of the claws with round pliers at an angle of 90 degrees. File the claws so that they do not scratch.

Step 7 :

Take a picture of toy and don't forget to share the photo on social networks with the author's name: «made by Svetlana Kononenko's MK / HOBBY-MK».

Cheat sheet :

Pull the end of the yarn completely through the last stitch. Pass the hook through the first stitch, from the outside to the inside of the work (photo 1-2). We pick up the tail and pull it out of the loop (photo 3). Insert the hook from the outside into the middle of the last tied loop (photo 4). We pick up the tail and pull it out - a smoothing loop has formed. We pull up the tail so that the loop gets the desired size.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the forehead behind both edges of the loops so that the cheeks cover the color change and the forehead edge sits in the middle of the initial head chain.
  • Sew the beak to the muzzle with invisible stitches, fill the beak with leftover yarn before closing and leave a long tail for sewing.
  • Sew the cere on both edges of the loops, bending the upper edge so the chain holes form the nostrils, then glue the eyes under the forehead aligned slightly to the sides.
  • Attach wings and feathers by sewing the wing base edges to the body; position feathers on the wing and secure them, then shape and starch or use the wire frame to hold the feather shape.
  • Insert the leg frame into the body, position and press the legs to the chest so they do not interfere with crocheting, then secure and bend toes into shape and file claws to prevent scratching.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a 1.25 mm steel hook and tight stitches for Etamin so the fabric has no visible holes and the wire frames remain hidden.
  • 💡Stuff the body and appendages gradually during crocheting to achieve smooth shaping and prevent lumps or a visible frame.
  • 💡Place the row start marker at the center front of the figure and check alignment by folding along the initial chain; use loop offset if necessary to avoid curvature.
  • 💡Secure wrapped wire ends with PVA glue and cover with a textile band-aid limiter before inserting into the crocheted parts to avoid the frame being palpable.
  • 💡Leave long tails where instructed for sewing (tail, beak, forehead) and weave ends into the single crochets to hide them.

This charming budgerigar pattern brings tiny parrot personality to life with wired legs and delicate feather detail. 🐦 The instructions include full rounds for head, body, wings, tail and tiny accessories with photos and a cheat sheet. ✨ Follow the step-by-step guide and enjoy a polished, realistic handmade budgie to gift or display. 🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished budgerigar measures approximately 9.5 x 13.5 cm (3.7 x 5.3 inch) depending on yarn and hook tension, as noted in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size and may require a different hook; for best results follow the Etamin yarn and 1.25 mm hook recommendation for the original scale.

Do I need experience with wirework for the legs and feathers?

This pattern uses thin wire for legs and feather frames; basic wire handling and simple pliers skills are helpful. The pattern includes instructions on winding and fixing the wire for beginners.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, assembly and wirework complexity.