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Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern

Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern
4.6β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

πŸŽ„

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

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About This Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured twin spiral garlands: one with a cheerful Santa topper and one topped with a small layered Christmas tree. Each topper sits above a long crocheted spiral ribbon that curls elegantly and is weighted with beads and small glass baubles. The pieces feature textured bobble/beard stitches, a striped cozy scarf, embroidered star details, and layered tree tiers with tiny bead ornaments.

Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed for intermediate crocheters, the instructions include round-by-round guidance, sizing notes, and assembly tips so you can stitch every scallop, stripe, and spiral. The finished garlands hang about 18-24 inches depending on how tightly you make the spirals and which beads you use.

Why You'll Love This Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it mixes classic amigurumi techniques with clever construction β€” a hollow mid-body ring that lets the spiral pass through and a textured beard that gives Santa lots of character. The stripes and embroidered snowflakes make each spiral uniquely festive. I also enjoy how portable the project is; you can work on separate components while watching a movie and assemble everything at the end.

Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. You can change yarn colors, make the spiral wider, or choose a different topper like a snowman or reindeer to match your holiday theme.

I often make the spiral longer by adding more rows and adding extra bead spacing for a fuller hanging effect. Try using a slightly fuzzier yarn for the beard to create a fluffier look, or use metallic yarn for star embroidery for extra sparkle.

You can also alter the size by using bulkier yarn and a larger hook for a bold display, or switch to finer yarn and a smaller hook for a delicate mini garland. I encourage experimenting with trims, small pom-poms, or bells to make each garland uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round. βœ— Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project. βœ— Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results. βœ— Attaching safety eyes after stuffing too much makes placement tricky; position and secure eyes while the head is still open and flexible. βœ— Not using a smaller hook for amigurumi fabric can result in stuffing showing through; choose a hook one size smaller than the yarn label suggests. βœ— Forgetting to weave tails into several stitches can lead to unraveling during use; always weave ends at least 3 inches through the fabric. βœ— Ignoring bead string placement before final sewing causes uneven tassels; pin beads and test hang before final stitching. βœ— Working the spiral strip too loosely prevents crisp spirals; use slightly tighter tension and consider light starching or a wire insert for structure.

Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern

Make an enchanting pair of spiral Christmas garlands topped with a smiling Santa and a decorated tree. This pattern includes a cuddly Santa head with a textured beard, a pom-pom hat, a cozy striped scarf, a hollow mid-body ring to slip the spiral through, and a matching spiral ribbon with embroidered snowflake stars and bead tassels. Two complementary toppers allow you to create a coordinated holiday hanging decoration for doorways, windows, or tree displays.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Cute Christmas Spiral Garland Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150g in cream/ivory for beard, body band, and trim
  • 02
    80-100g in red for hat, inner spiral, and accent stripes
  • 03
    50g in forest green for scarf stripes and tree layers
  • 04
    20-30g in flesh/peach for face skin tone
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in black for mouth, and yellow for tree star

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook for pom-pom/very tight details (optional)
  • 04
    Safety eyes 10mm (or 8mm for smaller look) and safety nose bead (6-8mm)
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and embroidery
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Embroidery floss or yarn in green and red for snowflake embroidery
  • 11
    Thin jewelry wire or heavy cotton string for inner hanging line
  • 12
    Beads and small glass baubles for tassels (as pictured)
  • 13
    Optional: stiffening spray or diluted glue for spiral shaping
  • 14
    Optional: pipe cleaners or floral wire for poseable scarf ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Change to skin tone yarn now if you started with cream for shaping. Keep stitches tight so stuffing won't show.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, approximately 9-11 sts apart (center to center) depending on desired expression. Mark the first stitch of the round with a marker.

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Embroider small nose placement between rounds 12-13. If using a safety nose bead attach now through the yarn before stuffing.

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 16 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 17 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin light stuffing now. Add fiberfill gradually to avoid overstuffing. The face should be firm but slightly soft to touch.

Round 18 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 21 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Stop stuffing when the head is mostly full but still flexible at the base; you'll shape the neck and attach the body band later. Leave a long tail for sewing to the body band.

Round 22 :

6 dec (6)

Round 23 :

Fasten off leaving a 20-30 cm tail for attaching to the body ring. Weave the tail into the inside to close a small gap or use sewing to secure if necessary.

Info :

If you want a slightly taller head, add 2-4 extra even rounds at 48 sts before starting decreases. Maintain placement of eyes relative to the center of the head.

β€” Beard (scalloped bobble panels) :

Info :

The beard is made as a semicircular scalloped panel composed of several bobble shells sewn to the face. Use cream/ivory yarn and a 3.25mm hook for dense texture.

Round 1 :

Make 12 sc in magic ring (12)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 4 :

Change to bobble stitch row: *ch1, skip 1, 5 dc bobble in next st, sl st to next st* repeat across to form 6 bobbles. End with sl st (6 bobbles)

Round 5 :

Work a second row of bobble scallops below the first: attach at the bottom edge and make bobbles staggered (6 larger bobbles)

Round 6 :

Working single crochet along top edge, create a neat edge to sew to the face: 1 sc in each st across (approx 18)

Info :

Make 2-3 small scallop panels and arrange them overlapping on the chin area for a full beard. Use pins to position and then sew with matching yarn, hiding stitches inside bobbles.

Round 7 :

If adding cheek tufts, make two small 6-st bobble clusters and sew to sides of the face at rounds 12-14.

Round 8 :

Fasten off and leave long tails for sewing; secure panels to lower face leaving a small gap for the mouth between scallops.

β€” Hat :

Info :

Hat is worked in red, starting with a small crown then expanding to a cylinder and finishing with decreases to form a slouch. The white brim is crocheted separately and sewn on using surface slip stitches for a raised look.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” continue until the crown reaches desired depth for a slouch (5 rounds)

Info :

Measure hat against head before closing β€” it should be slightly larger than the head base so the white brim sits around the forehead without compressing the face.

Round 11 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 12 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off and leave long tail to stitch the hat closed at the top. Attach a white brim made as a slip-stitch strip then folded and bordered to create thick cuff.

β€” Pom Pom (hat tip) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 4 :

6 dec (6)

Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Stuff firmly and sew to hat tip; trim surface if desired to make round cloud-like pompom.

Info :

Alternatively make a yarn pompom and attach for a fluffier look if you prefer not to crochet a ball.

β€” Body Band / Hollow Mid-Ring :

Info :

This cylindrical band forms the mid-section 'basket' the spiral passes through. It's crocheted as a round tube with a hollow center. Work in cream with an inner red lining (worked separately then sewn) for the red interior visible in the photo.

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring and crochet 12 sc into ring (12)

Round 2 :

6 inc (24)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 12 (48)

Round 5-6 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Stop increasing once you reach an internal diameter that will permit your spiral to pass through without rubbing (approx 4-5 cm). The tube will be worked up vertically for height.

Round 7-18 :

1 sc in each st (48) β€” work 12 rounds up to form height of band (approx 4 cm)

Round 19 :

Change to red inner lining yarn. Make a slip-stitch row on the inside or work a separate red tube slightly smaller and insert it; continue 1 sc in each st (48)

Round 20 :

Change back to cream and work 1 sc in each st (48)

Round 21 :

Join edges with one round of slip stitch if you worked lining separately; otherwise continue 1 sc in each st (48)

Round 22 :

Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing. The band should now be a sturdy ring that will sit around the Santa's waist area. Use additional stuffing around head/neck to anchor.

Info :

If you'd like the band to be stiffer, insert a ring of heavy plastic canvas or craft wire in the lower seam before closing. Stitch the casing closed firmly over it.

β€” Scarf (Make 1) :

Info :

The scarf pictured is striped red and green, worked flat as a long narrow rectangle, then fringed. Work in hdc for a soft dense fabric that folds nicely around the neck.

Round 1 :

Ch 8, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across (7 hdc)

Round 2-4 :

Ch1, turn, hdc in each st across (7) β€” repeat for 3 rows in red

Round 5-7 :

Change to green. Ch1, turn, hdc in each st across (7) β€” 3 rows green

Round 8-10 :

Change to red. Ch1, turn, hdc in each st across (7) β€” 3 rows red

Round 11 :

Fasten off leaving long tails. Add fringe by attaching 6 strands at each short end (3 red, 3 green) and trimming to even length.

Info :

Wrap scarf around the neck area and stitch ends discreetly beneath the beard. If adding wire for pose, thread thin wire through the scarf center before sewing to allow shaping of ends.

β€” Spiral Ribbon (Make 2 β€” Left and Right) :

Info :

Each spiral ribbon is worked as a long flat strip (row-based) with a contrasting inner color worked as a separate lining or worked in the round for a two-color strip. The strip is then wound around a central wire or allowed to curl naturally. The pictured spiral is about 12-13 cm across at the widest loops and approximately 40-50 cm long un-wound. For compactness we will make a 90-row strip (both sides counted as rows) about 44 cm long. You may adjust row count for longer/shorter spiral.

Round 1 (Row 1) :

Using red for inner strip: ch 28, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (27 sc) β€” this forms inner red core row 1

Round 2 (Row 2) :

Ch1, turn, 1 sc in each st across (27)

Round 3-10 (Rows 3-10) :

Repeat Row 2 to reach 10 rows of red core (27)

Info :

At this point the red core is the interior of the spiral. For the white outer edge, either work a separate long white strip and sew the two together along long edges, or change colors and work the white border around the red core. The pattern below shows working a white border using a second pass sewn to the red core for crisp edge.

Round 11 :

Fasten off red, start white strip: ch 28, sc in 2nd ch and across (27)

Round 12-20 :

Ch1, turn, 1 sc in each st across for 9 rows to form outer white strip (27)

Round 21 :

Fasten off leaving long tails. Place red and white strips RS together and whipstitch long edges together so white becomes the outer facing color. Alternatively single crochet the two strips together through both loops for a thicker edge.

Info :

To create a spiral with body, leave a long tail at the top to sew to the bead string; run a sturdy cotton string or thin wire up the center before sealing the top and then slide beads down the center later when assembling.

Round 22-40 :

Continue building length by repeating the 20-row set (10 red rows + 10 white rows sewn) until you reach desired length β€” pictured spirals use approx 40-45 rows of each color pairing (work until your strip measures about 44 cm).

Round 41 :

When length is reached, fasten off and hide ends. For shaping, curl the strip into a spiral so the white edge faces outward. Lightly mist with water/starch and shape around a cylindrical form to set curls, or insert a thin flexible wire along the inner edge to hold shape permanently.

Info :

Embroider green star motifs along the outer white face spaced about every 12-14 rows: using green embroidery yarn, bring needle from interior to outside and work an 8-point star using long straight stitches anchored at center. Space them evenly for attractive repeat.

Round 42 :

Add bead tassel: thread beads and small bauble onto thin wire. Pass wire up through the center of the spiral and secure top with a knot inside the body band. Use small beads (4-6 mm) and larger 12 mm baubles for bottom weight.

Round 43 :

Repeat the process to make the second spiral, but reverse color order for the pictured contrasting look: start with a white core and red outer, or vice versa for mirrored pairing.

Info :

To produce crisp scalloped decorative holes seen at spiral edges, work a picot-like border along the white outer edge before stiffening: *sc 3, ch 2, sl st in last sc* across the outer edge.

β€” Christmas Tree Topper (Make 1) :

Info :

The miniature tree is crocheted in dark green with layered conical tiers, a small brown trunk, and tiny bead ornaments sewn onto the tiers. The star topper is crocheted separately in yellow and sewn to the very top.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6) β€” tree crown

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Begin tier construction: each tier is worked as a ring of staggered shell rows that create the layered look. We'll make 4 tiers of increasing circumference.

Round 5 (Tier 1) :

*sc in next st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, sl st in next st* around to form 6 small shells (approx 18 sts total accounted)

Round 6 (Tier 2 start) :

Attach yarn below first tier and work *sc 2, 5 dc shell in next st* repeat around to increase shell count to 8 (approx 24 area)

Round 7 :

Work an additional shell round to enlarge the tier: *sc 3, 5 dc shell in next st* across (approx 32 reference)

Round 8 (Tier 3) :

Repeat shell expansion for 10 shells, forming a broader tier and finishing with single crochet row to stabilize (approx 36-40)

Round 9 (Tier 4) :

Final wide tier: shell placement slightly staggered to mimic tree branches. End with single crochet stabilization row and fasten off leaving tail.

Round 10 (Trunk) :

Use brown yarn: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 11 :

6 inc (12)

Round 12-14 :

1 sc in each st (12) β€” work 3 rounds to form a short trunk, stuff lightly

Info :

Sew trunk to base of lowest tier. Add tiny beads sewn at shell centers as ornaments β€” use red and gold seed beads. Position beads symmetrically for balance.

Round 15 (Star) :

Using yellow yarn: ch 6 and join to form ring, (sc, ch2, sc) 5 times into ring to make 5 points; or crochet a small 5-point star by working 5 small triangles and sewing them together. Fasten off and attach to top.

Info :

Insert a thin wire from the top of the tree into the body band to secure when assembling the garland so the tree sits neatly above the spiral.

β€” Tree Decorations & Final Touches :

Round 1 :

Sew small beads to the tree tiers: place 6-8 beads evenly across tiers starting from the middle tier down to the base. Use a single thread and pass through several times to ensure stability.

Round 2 :

Edge each tier with a tiny white picot or slip-stitch for snowy trim: *ch2, sl st* into edge stitches to form scalloped snow edging.

Info :

Keep decorations small and flat to avoid making the tree off-balance. Test hang before final stitching; shift beads if tree leans to one side.

β€” Assembly & Bead Tassels :

Info :

Cut a length of strong thin wire or craft string approx 45 cm; this will thread through the top hanger, pass through the head/body ring, down through the spiral, and hold beads and baubles at the bottom. Attach top hanger loop first.

Round 1 :

Thread small round beads onto wire spaced by jewelry crimp beads as pictured. Use three or four decorative beads between each spiral loop to mimic the photo. Secure each bead by small crimp or knot below it to hold position.

Round 2 :

Slip the top of the wire into the top of the head (secure through hat seam) or into a sewn-in interior anchor. Sew the head to the body band with whip stitch using the long tail left from the head. Ensure alignment so the face looks forward and the spiral hangs centered beneath.

Round 3 :

After attaching head to body band, slide spiral strip down the wire so the top of the spiral is just below the band. Use a bead or small knot under the band to hold the spiral position while hanging.

Round 4 :

Sew the scarf to the neck area: tack at two points beneath the beard so scarf appears wrapped. Hide knots and tails beneath the beard for a neat finish.

Round 5 :

At the bottom of the spiral, thread larger glass baubles and secure with sturdy crimps and extra knots. Finish with bead caps and small accent beads to mimic photo tassels.

Info :

When assembling two garlands (Santa and tree), make one spiral with red interior and white exterior, and the other white interior with red exterior for contrast. Mirror bead patterns to make them complementary when hung side by side.

β€” Final Embroidery & Facial Details :

Round 1 :

Embroider a smiling mouth below the nose using black yarn or embroidery floss. A small curved satin stitch creates the smile pictured. Work gently to keep stitches even.

Round 2 :

Add rosy cheeks with blush using pink yarn felted in by small stitch clusters or apply a small dab of fabric-safe paint. Alternatively embroider small pink circles using yarn.

Info :

Sew beard panels around mouth and chin leaving a small area open so the mouth and nose are visible. Use short, neat stitches and hide tails inside the head for a clean finish.

β€” Finishing Notes :

Info :

Weave in all ends at least 4-5 cm into fabric. Check that the hanging wire is secure at top and bottom. Lightly steam-block fabric (avoid direct heat on beads) to relax any uneven stitches. If you used wire inside strips, bend gently to perfect spiral shape.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck tail into the top of the hollow body band. Pin in place first, then sew securely using whip stitch all around, ensuring alignment of face to the front center of the band.
  • Slide the hanging wire through the head's interior anchor and the body band opening; tie or crimp the wire securely inside the head to prevent slipping. Reinforce with a few stitches of yarn through the internal anchor.
  • Position the spiral beneath the body band and thread the central hanging wire through the spiral's top. Use a small bead or knot inside the band to hold the spiral at the correct height so it doesn't slip down.
  • Sew the scarf ends to the neck area beneath the beard at rounds 12-14 of the head, tacking each end down with 6 secure stitches and hiding tails underneath the beard.
  • Sew the beard panels in overlapping layers on the lower face at rounds 12-16, ensuring the mouth remains visible and that cheek fluff panels sit symmetrically at rounds 13-14.
  • For tree topper: sew the trunk into the center top of the body band, then anchor the tree by feeding the same hanging wire through the trunk and securing inside the band. Reinforce tree with a couple of tidy stitches at the base.
  • Attach bead tassels at the bottom of each spiral by threading beads and baubles onto the hanging wire and securing with crimps or knots. Add a final bead cap to conceal knots and give a finished look.
  • Secure any loose ends by weaving them through several stitches and trimming close to work. Test hang the garlands and adjust bead positions for visual balance before final crimping.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like where the head meets the body band.
  • πŸ’‘For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place.
  • πŸ’‘Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric.
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams.
  • πŸ’‘Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry.
  • πŸ’‘For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing does not show through stitches; a smaller hook is helpful for worsted yarn.
  • πŸ’‘Trim and secure all hanging wires and crimps to ensure the final piece is safe to hang and will not scratch surfaces.

This charming spiral garland set brings instant holiday cheer and makes a delightful handmade decoration for seasons to come. Each carefully crafted topper and spiral combines textured crochet stitches, playful stripes, embroidered snowflakes, and shimmering beads to create a festive display you can hang anywhere. I hope stitching these pieces fills your home with warmth and creative joy β€” every loop and tassel tells a tiny Christmas story. πŸŽ„πŸ§Άβœ¨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished garland (from top hanger to bottom bauble) will measure approximately 18-24 inches (45-60 cm). Adjust spiral length and number of rows to change final length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure, perfect for gifts. Embroidered eyes are ideal for young children as they have no small parts, and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient for the head, pompom, trunk and small bits. Stuff firmly but not overly tight to allow the piece to maintain its shape while still being cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

The pictured design does not have separate articulated arms or legs; however you can add pipe cleaners or floral wire inside a crocheted arm piece (if you decide to add arms) before stuffing to allow poseability. Ensure ends are folded and covered to avoid pokes.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. Change stripe widths on the scarf, color order of the spiral, or create themed toppers (snowman, reindeer) while following the basic structure.