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DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern

DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12+ Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
✂️

Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

👕

Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern

This pattern creates a ladies cardigan worked seamlessly from the neck down with a decorative circular cable yoke transitioning into stockinette stitch. The cardigan includes button bands, set-in sleeve division, and optional length adjustments. The design is tailored for a flattering A-line shape created with regular side increases.

DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Charted yoke patterns and clear sleeve division instructions allow you to follow complex lace and cable work. Suitable for knitters comfortable with chart reading, cables, and short-row shaping.

Why You'll Love This DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because the circular yoke showcases beautiful cable work that flows naturally into a simple stockinette body. I enjoy the way the design balances intricate detail at the top with clean lines down the body for versatile styling. The set-up and charted repeats give me confidence to shape the yoke symmetrically for every size. Making this cardigan feels rewarding—each step reveals more of the lace-and-cable texture I adore.

DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love suggesting ways to customize this cardigan to make it your own. Try swapping the yarn to a different fiber blend for more drape or extra warmth depending on your climate.

If you want a chunkier look, go up two needle sizes and use a heavier weight yarn; reduce the stitch counts in the charts proportionally and swatch to adjust.

To make a lighter spring version, use a fingering or sport yarn held single and go down a needle size for a finer fabric and more delicate cables.

I often change button styles—matte metal buttons create a modern edge, while covered fabric buttons give a softer, cohesive look. Test placement before sewing them on.

Want a cropped version? Work fewer increase repeats after sleeve division and measure frequently until you reach your desired length.

I sometimes add elbow patches for durability and style; pick up stitches and knit a small patch or sew a contrasting fabric patch after blocking.

For a more feminine finish, try a narrower rib on the button bands such as k1, p1 instead of k2, p2; adjust band width so buttonholes and buttons remain aligned.

I also enjoy colorwork—substitute the side lace panels or a single cable column with a contrasting color to make the pattern pop while keeping the rest neutral.

If youd like more ease or a relaxed fit, choose the next size up and follow the body shaping; the yoke will still sit beautifully and the A-line will remain flattering.

Lastly, experiment with different blocking shapes—slightly wider than tall for a drapier silhouette or blocked to measurements for a more structured look; I always pin carefully and measure while wet to get the best result.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when dividing for sleeves can make the placement of panels and sleeves inconsistent; always place markers exactly as instructed and double-check counts. ✗ Changing needle sizes without checking gauge can drastically alter the finished measurements; swatch in stockinette and adjust needle size until your gauge matches the pattern. ✗ Neglecting to transfer sleeve stitches carefully to a holder can create twisted or uneven underarm edges; use a spare cord or stitch holder and transfer in order to preserve stitch orientation. ✗ Ignoring chart reading direction leads to mirrored or incorrect cable motifs; read charts from bottom to top and right to left for RS rows (left to right for WS rows) as specified.

DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern

Make a timeless, seamless top-down cardigan featuring a circular cable yoke that transitions into smooth stockinette for a flattering A-line silhouette. This pattern guides you through detailed charted yoke work, sleeve separation, and neat finishing details. Youll enjoy the sophisticated texture and the cozy drape created by the sport-weight merino-silk-yak blend yarn.

Advanced 12+ Hours

Materials Needed for DRAGOBRAT ladies' cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Plucky Knitter – Traveler Sport (297 m / 105 g [325 yds / 3.5 oz]); 65% merino wool, 20% silk, 15% yak
  • 02
    Size 32: Total yarn amount needed 400 g [14.1 oz]
  • 03
    Size 34: Total yarn amount needed 430 g [15.2 oz]
  • 04
    Size 36: Total yarn amount needed 450 g [15.9 oz]
  • 05
    Size 38: Total yarn amount needed 470 g [16.6 oz]
  • 06
    Size 40: Total yarn amount needed 500 g [17.6 oz]
  • 07
    Size 42: Total yarn amount needed 520 g [18.3 oz]
  • 08
    Size 44: Total yarn amount needed 550 g [19.4 oz]
  • 09
    Size 46: Total yarn amount needed 600 g [21.2 oz]
  • 10
    Size 48: Total yarn amount needed 650 g [23.0 oz]
  • 11
    Size 50: Total yarn amount needed 700 g [24.8 oz]
  • 12
    Size 52: Total yarn amount needed 730 g [25.75 oz]
  • 13
    Size 54: Total yarn amount needed 760 g [26.8 oz]
  • 14
    Size 56: Total yarn amount needed 790 g [27.7 oz]
  • 15
    Size 58: Total yarn amount needed 810 g [28.6 oz]
  • 16
    Size 60: Total yarn amount needed 830 g [29.3 oz]
  • 17
    Size 62: Total yarn amount needed 850 g [30.0 oz]

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Circular knitting needles 2.5 mm (US 1.5)
  • 02
    Circular knitting needles 3.0 mm (US 2.5)
  • 03
    Spare circular needle or extra cord for holding sleeve stitches
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Stitch holder
  • 06
    Tapestry needle
  • 07
    Cable needle
  • 08
    Buttons, about 13 mm [0.5 in] diameter
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Blocking pins and surface
  • 11
    Measuring tape

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— Overview :

Info :

'"DRAGOBRAT" ladies\' cardigan is worked from the neck down completely seamless. The circular yoke features a cable pattern that seamlessly transitions into the stockinette stitch in which the body of the cardigan is worked. Increases at the sides create the A-line shape of the garment.'

Info :

'Sizes: 32 (34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44) (46, 48, 50) (52, 54, 56) (58, 60, 62) in the indicated order.'

— Needles and Materials :

Info :

'– Plucky Knitter – Traveler Sport (297 m/105 g [325 yds / 3.5 oz]; 65% merino wool, 20% silk, 15% yak) – circular knitting needles 2.5 and 3 mm [US1.5 and US2.5] or other appropriate size to obtain gauge; – stitch markers, stitch holder, spare circular, extra cords or a piece of auxiliary yarn, tapestry needle; – buttons, about 13 mm [0.5 in] diameter; – cable needle.'

— Gauge and Stitches :

Info :

'Gauge: 25 sts and 36 rows/rounds = 10x10 cm [4x4 in], in stockinette stitch, on 3.00 mm [US2.5] needles, after blocking and stretched.'

Info :

'Stockinette stitch (st st) – in back- and forth rows with turning: knit on right side, purl on wrong side. In rounds: knit all stitches in all rounds.'

Info :

'Reverse stockinette stitch (rev st st): in back- and forth rows with turning: purl on right side, knit on wrong side. In rounds: purl all stitches in all rounds.'

Info :

'RLI = right-leaning lifted increase: insert right needle into stitch one row below next stitch and knit this additional stitch, then work next stitch as indicated.'

Info :

'LLI = left-leaning lifted increase: insert left needle into stitch two rows below the stitch just worked, lift stitch onto left needle and knit this additional stitch, then work next stitch as indicated.'

Info :

'ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts individually knit-wise, return them to the left needle and knit them together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease).'

Info :

'Yoke pattern charts: Charts indicate the order of work for the lace pattern on the circular yoke and the side lace panel inserts. The charts show both RS and WS rows. Charts are read from bottom to top and worked from right to left for RS rows, from left to right for WS rows.'

— Order of Work :

Info :

'This pattern contains instructions for the following sizes in the indicated order: 32 (34, 36, 38) (40, 42, 44) (46, 48, 50) (52, 54, 56) (58, 60, 62)'

— Begin of work :

Round 1 :

'Using 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles and preferred cast-on method, cast on 169 (169; 169; 205) (205; 205; 205) (205; 241; 241) (241; 241; 241) (241; 241; 241) sts.'

Infos :

'Work Set-Up Row (WS) as follows: Work 12 sts according to the Set-Up Row in the chart for the buttonhole band on the Right Front, k1, place marker 3, then work according to the Set-Up Row in the Yoke Chart. Work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 4 (4; 4; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) times, place marker 2, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 4 (4; 4; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) times, place marker 1, 12 sts according to the Set-Up Row in the chart for the button band on the Left Front.'

Infos :

'Work the next RS row the following way: Work 12 sts according to the next row of the chart for the button band on the Left Front, slip marker 1 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 4 (4; 4; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) times, slip marker 2 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat width-wise 4 (4; 4; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) times, slip marker 3 to right needle, p1, 12 sts according to the next chart row of the buttonhole band chart on the Right Front.'

Info :

'Continue in earlier established pattern. After having worked 10 rows of the Yoke chart, change to 3 mm [US2.5] needles and continue.'

Infos :

'After all rows of the chart have been completed, continue as follows: Work 12 sts according to the next row of the chart for the button band on the Left Front, slip marker 1 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat of Chart # 3-1 (6-1; 8-1; 2-1) (4-1; 4-1; 7-1) (7-1; 3-1; 5-1) (7-1; 7-1; 7-1) (8-1; 8-1; 8-1) width-wise 4 (4; 4; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) (6; 6; 6) times, slip marker 2 to right needle, work the marked pattern repeat of Chart # 3-2 (6-2; 8-2; 2-2) (4-2; 4-2; 7-2) (7-2; 3-2; 5-2) (7-2; 7-2; 7-2) (8-2; 8-2; 8-2) width-wise 3 (3; 3; 4) (4; 4; 4) (4; 5; 5) (5; 5; 5) (5; 5; 5) times, ending with the sts after the pattern repeat framed in Red, slip marker 3 to right needle, 12 sts according to the next chart row of the buttonhole band chart on the Right Front.'

Info :

'Complete all rows of the appropriate Yoke chart for the size worked.'

Info :

'You should now have a total of 296 (320; 344; 354) (374; 374; 404) (404; 432; 456) (480; 480; 480) (504; 504; 504) sts.'

Infos :

'Continue in earlier established pattern, working the button band and buttonhole band in the established pattern, and 1 purl stitch each before and after marker 2. Work a RS row in the earlier established pattern. In the next WS row, re-distribute sts, placing markers as follows: Size 32: 12 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 42 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p52, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 84 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p52, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 42 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 12 Left Front (button) Band sts.'

Infos :

'Size 34: 12 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts, slip marker 3 to right needle, 44 sts in established pattern, place marker M4 (Right Front), p60, place marker M3 (Right Sleeve), 88 sts in established pattern, place marker M2 (Back), p60, place marker M1 (Left Sleeve), 44 sts in established pattern (Left Front), slip marker 1 to right needle, 12 Left Front (button) Band sts.' (Continue similarly for sizes 36 to 62 as listed in the pattern.)

Info :

'Now, work short rows to raise the Back neck as follows: Next Row (RS): work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, slip marker M3 to right needle, k26 (30; 33; 36) (38; 39; 42) (42; 43; 46) (50; 50; 50) (52; 52; 52), turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl. Work to marker M2, slip marker M2 to right needle, p26 (30; 33; 36) (38; 39; 42) (42; 43; 46) (50; 50; 50) (52; 52; 52), turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric.'

Info :

'Next Row 1: work to 5 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.'

Info :

'Row 2: work to 5 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 another 2 (2; 2; 2) (2; 2; 3) (3; 3; 3) (3; 3; 3) (3; 3; 3) times.'

Info :

'Next Row 3: work to 3 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.'

Info :

'Row 4: work to 3 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 another 2 (2; 2; 2) (2; 2; 3) (3; 3; 3) (3; 3; 3) (3; 3; 3) times.'

Info :

'Next Row 5: work to 2 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to wrong side, slip 1 stitch purl-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the wrong side of the fabric in purl.'

Info :

'Row 6: work to 2 sts before the Double stitch, turn work to right side. Slip 1 stitch knit-wise to right needle, leading the working yarn in back of the stitch, above the right needle. Tighten the working yarn so that the stitch on the right needle sits on the needle with two legs visible (Double stitch). Continue working on the right side of the fabric. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 another 1 (1; 1; 1) (1; 1; 2) (2; 2; 2) (2; 2; 2) (2; 2; 2) time(s).'

Info :

'Continue in earlier established pattern to end of row, knitting both legs of the Double stitch together as one. Work the next WS row in earlier established pattern, purling both legs of the Double stitch together as one.'

Info :

'Continue in earlier established pattern, working the Left Front Band and the Buttonhole Band on the Right Front, and between them, stockinette stitch, until the yoke has reached a height of 19 (19; 19; 19.5) (19.5; 20; 20) (20.5; 20.5; 21) (22.5; 23; 23.5) (23.5; 23.5; 24.0) cm [7.5 (7.5; 7.5; 7.7) (7.7; 7.9; 7.9) (8.1; 8.1; 8.3) (8.9; 9.1; 9.3) (9.3; 9.3; 9.45 in) measured on the Front, then proceed with Sleeve division.]'

Round 2 :

'Next Row – Sleeve division (RS): work 12 Left Front (button) Band sts, slip marker 1 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, slip marker M1 to right needle, transfer the next 52 (60; 66; 72) (76; 77; 83) (83; 85; 92) (99; 99; 99) (99; 99; 98; 99; 98) sts (Right Sleeve) to a stitch holder, piece of waste yarn or spare cord for holding, cast on 16 (16; 18; 22) (24; 28; 28) (32; 32; 32) (32; 34; 38) (38; 44; 46) sts, slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker 2, slip marker 2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, slip marker M3 to right needle, transfer the next 52 (60; 66; 72) (76; 77; 83) (83; 85; 92) (99; 99; 99) (99; 99; 98) sts (Right Sleeve) to a stitch holder, piece of waste yarn or spare cord for holding, cast on 16 (16; 18; 22) (24; 28; 28) (32; 32; 32) (32; 34; 38) (38; 44; 46) new underarm sts, slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker 3, slip marker 3 to right needle, work 12 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts.'

Info :

'After having divided for the sleeves, you should have 224 (232; 248; 254) (270; 276; 294) (302; 324; 336) (346; 350; 358) (382; 394; 400) sts.'

Info :

'Continue working over the sts of the Body of the cardigan only. Move markers M1 and M3 – 2 (2; 3; 5) (6; 8; 8) (10; 10; 10) (10; 11; 13) (13; 16; 17) sts to the left; markers M2 and M4 –2 (2; 3; 5) (6; 8; 8) (10; 10; 10) (10; 11; 13) (13; 16; 17) sts to the right.' (Note: side panels are worked 5 sts stockinette, 2 sts reverse st, 5 sts stockinette.)

Round 3 :

'Work 2 cm [0.8 in] in earlier established pattern.'

Round 4 :

'Next Row – increases: Work in earlier established pattern to 1 st before marker M1, RLI, k1, slip marker M1 to right needle, work the 12 sts of the side panel in pattern described above, slip marker M2 to right needle, k1, LLI, work in earlier established pattern to 1 st before marker M3, RLI, k1, slip marker M3 to right needle, work side panel in pattern described above, slip marker M4 to right needle, k1, LLI, work in earlier established pattern to end of row = 4 sts increased.'

Info :

'Repeat increases in every 14th (14th; 14th) (12th; 12th; 12th) (12th; 10th; 10th) (10th; 10th; 10th) (10th; 10th; 10th) row another 5 (5; 6; 8) (8; 11) (12; 12; 10) (11; 12; 13) (12; 13; 15) times.'

Info :

'You should now have a total of 248 (256; 276; 290) (306; 324; 342) (354; 376; 380) (394; 402; 414) (434; 450; 464) sts.'

Info :

'Continue in earlier established pattern until piece has either reached a height of 44 (46; 48; 52) (52; 54; 56) (60; 60; 62) (64; 64; 64) (66; 66; 66) cm [17.3 (18.15; 18.9; 20.5) (20.5; 21.0; 22.0) (23.6; 23.6; 24.4) (25.2; 25.2; 25.2) (26.0; 26.0; 26.0) in] or is 10 cm [4 in] shorter as desired from sleeve division.'

Info :

'In the next RS row, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, then work the side panel sts as k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1 (= 12 sts), slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, then work the side panel sts as as k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1 (= 12 sts), slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to end of row. Work 3 more rows (1 RS, 1 WS, 1 RS) in earlier established pattern.'

Info :

'Slip marker M1 and M3 – 3 sts to the right; markers M2 and M4 – 3 sts to the left. In the next RS row, work in earlier established pattern to marker M1, then work the side panel sts as (p2, k2) 4 times, p2 (= 18 sts), slip marker M2 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to marker M3, then work the side panel sts as (p2, k2) 4 times, p2 (= 18 sts), slip marker M4 to right needle, work in earlier established pattern to end of row. Work 3 more rows (1 RS, 1 WS, 1 RS) in earlier established pattern.'

Info :

'In the next RS row, change to 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles and begin working ribbing as follows: Work 12 Left Front (button) Band sts, slip marker 1 to right needle, p1, work in "k2, p2" ribbing to 3 sts before marker 2, k2, p1, slip marker 2 to right needle, p1, k2, work in "p2, k2" ribbing to 1 st before marker 3, p1, slip marker 3 to right needle, work 12 Right Front (buttonhole) Band sts (buttonhole) Band sts.'

Info :

'Work the buttonhole and button band and between them, "k2, p2" ribbing for 10 cm [4 in], then bind off all sts.'

— Right Sleeve :

Infos :

'Take up the formerly held sts again, and place them on a 3.0 mm [US2.5] circular needle. Right side facing, join new working yarn, place BoR marker, work 16 (16; 18; 22) (24; 28; 28) (32; 32; 32) (32; 34; 38) (38; 44; 46) sts into the corresponding sts at the side of the cardigan as they appear: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts, place marker 1, work in stockinette stitch to end of row, join to work in the round. You should now have a total of 68 (76; 84; 94) (100; 105; 111) (115; 118; 124) (131; 133; 137) (137; 143; 144) sts.'

Infos :

'Work the sleeve in stockinette stitch in the round, purling the 2 sts in the center between BoR marker and marker 1. Work even over an unchanged stitch count. Work in earlier established pattern in the round until sleeve has either reached a length of 45 (45, 46, 47) (48, 50, 50) (52, 53, 54) (54, 55, 56) (56, 58, 59) cm [17.7 (17.7; 18.1; 18.5) (18.9; 19.7; 19.7) (20.5; 20.9; 21.25) (21.25; 21.65; 22) (22; 22.8; 23.2) in] from armhole, or is 10 cm [4 in] shorter than desired sleeve length.'

Infos :

'Change to 2.5 mm [US1.5] needles, and proceed with working "k2, p2" ribbing, in the first round decreasing 0 (0; 0; 2) (0; 1; 3) (3; 2; 0) (3; 1; 1) (1; 3; 0) st(s) evenly distributed, by working p2tog (once if the number for your size is "1", twice if your number is "2", and not at all if your number is "0"). You should now have a total of – 68 (76; 84; 92) (100; 104; 108) (112; 116; 124) (128; 132; 136) (136; 140; 144) sts. After having worked 10.0 cm [4.0 in] in ribbing, bind off all sts.'

Info :

'Work the Left Sleeve the same way.'

Info :

'Moisten the cardigan, and block on an even horizontal surface, leaving pinned until completely dry. Sew the buttons to the Left Front Band in the appropriate spots. Hide all ends. Happy knitting! :)'

— Charts and Bands :

Info :

'Buttonhole band on the Right Front: Set-Up Row: p3, k6, p2, k1. Rows 1, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27: p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k3. Rows 2, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: p3, k6, p2, k1. Row 3: p1, k2, p1, ssk, yo, yo, k2tog, p1, k3. Row 4: p3, k3, k1-tbl, k2, p2, k1. Work Rows 1–28 once, then repeat Rows 3–28 as often as needed, then work Rows 1–2.'

Info :

'Button band on the Left Front: Set-Up Row: k1, p2, k6, p3. Row 1: k3, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1. Row 2: k1, p2, k6, p3. Repeat Rows 1–2.'

Info :

'Yoke pattern chart #1: Rows 1, 3, 5 (RS): (p1, k2) 6 times. Rows 2, 4, 6 (WS): (p2, k1) 6 times. Several charted rows and written row instructions are provided; refer to the charts: Row 7: p1, k2, pfb, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2, pfb, k2. Row 8: p2, k2, p2, (k1, p2) 3 times, k2, p2, k1. Row 9: p1, k2, p2, k2, pfb, k2, p1, k2, pfb, k2, p2, k2. Row 10: (p2, k2) 2 times, p2, k1, (p2, k2) 2 times, p2, k1. Row 11: p1, k2, p2, k2, pfb, p1, (k2, p1) 2 times, pfb, k2, p2, k2. Row 12: p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, (p2, k1) 2 times, p1, k1, p2, k2, p2, k1. Row 13: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, RLI, k1, p1, (k2, p1) 2 times, k1, LLI, p1, k2, p2, k2. Row 14: p2, k2, (p2, k1), work 6 times, k1, p2, k1.'

Info :

'Yoke pattern charts #2-#3 and additional chart pieces are provided across the pattern pages; follow the charts for each size and the written row notes (Rows 15–66 and beyond) as shown in the charted pages. Read charts from bottom to top, RS rows right to left, WS rows left to right.'

Assembly Instructions

  • After sleeve and body are completed, moisten the cardigan and block on an even horizontal surface, pinning to the measurements and leaving pinned until completely dry.
  • Sew the buttons to the Left Front Band in the appropriate spots, aligning with the buttonhole band on the Right Front so buttons match the row spacing.
  • Hide all yarn ends securely with a tapestry needle, weaving them into the wrong side of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
  • When dividing for sleeves, transfer sleeve sts neatly to a holder or spare circular and cast on underarm stitches as instructed; pick up these stitches in order when resuming the sleeve to avoid twist.

Important Notes

  • 💡Swatch and check gauge in stockinette after blocking to ensure finished measurements match the pattern.
  • 💡Place markers exactly as instructed to keep track of front, back, and sleeve divisions for accurate shaping.
  • 💡Change needle sizes as specified for yoke and body sections to maintain correct tension and stitch appearance.
  • 💡When working short rows for the back neck, tighten the double stitches carefully to avoid loose gaps.

This elegant DRAGOBRAT cardigan blends delicate cable lace with a smooth stockinette body for a timeless look. The top-down, seamless construction makes fitting and customizing easy for knitters who love detail and clean finishes. Blocked and buttoned, it becomes a wardrobe staple full of handmade charm. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern includes sizes 32 through 62 with chest circumferences listed for each size; choose the size that best matches your measurements or the intended recipient.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

You can substitute yarn, but the final size and drape will change. Always swatch and adjust needle size to obtain the specified gauge of 25 sts x 36 rows = 10x10 cm in stockinette.

Do I need experience with chart reading and cables?

Yes, this pattern is charted and includes cable and lifted-increase techniques, so experience with chart reading, cable manipulation, and short-row shaping is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most knitters will take multiple days to complete this cardigan; the estimated time is 12+ hours depending on your speed and familiarity with charted cable work.