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Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern
4.5β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a charming Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi complete with wired wings, a jointed body, and embroidered details. The design uses fine and lace-weight yarns to achieve a neat, sculpted finish. Photos at each stage help you place eyes, spines, and assemble the wired frames with confidence.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for intermediate crocheters who enjoy detailed assembly and mixed techniques, including bobble stitches and wire framing. The finished toy measures about 30cm using the recommended materials.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines sculptural shaping with playful details that bring the dragon to life. I enjoy the architecture of the wired wings and tail which make posing so satisfying. The pattern uses small hooks and fine yarn for a polished look, and I love how the tiny spines and embroidered eyes add character. Working through the assembly is rewarding β€” watching all the parts come together never fails to make me smile.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily this pattern can be customized with color swaps; using a softer gray or even pastel tones changes the whole mood of the dragon.

If you want a larger or smaller dragon, change yarn weight and hook size β€” bulky yarn with a larger hook makes a cuddly big version while thinner yarn and a smaller hook creates a tiny keychain-sized friend.

I often add embroidered freckles or different eye shapes to give each dragon a unique personality; try slanted eyelids or upward brows to change expression.

For a sturdy, display-only version skip the cotter pins and use stronger glued plastic joints or internal wire shaping instead.

Try replacing the wired wings with crocheted wings without wires for a softer, flexible result that is better for small children.

I sometimes embellish the wings and tail fins with a subtle metallic thread along the edges for a shimmering effect that catches the light.

If you prefer fewer spines, reduce the number and space them evenly; for a fiercer look increase the size of each spine or add more beads for texture.

Make a mini family by crocheting scaled versions using different hook sizes, then attach them to a keyring or decorative garland.

I recommend experimenting with eye techniques: painted pupils, felt appliques, or tiny safety eyes can all work depending on the look and intended recipient.

To make the dragon posable, you can add additional wire inside the limbs following the body frame method shown in the pattern; just be sure to secure and tape all wire ends tightly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the placement of the marker at the back can cause asymmetry as you shape the head and body; align the marker in the center of the back and adjust with extra stitches as you go. βœ— Stuffing too loosely or too tightly will distort the shape of feet, legs, and body; stuff gradually, firmly in the feet and more lightly in the neck and upper body for correct proportions. βœ— Forgetting to leave long yarn tails for sewing will make assembly difficult; always cut the yarn leaving a generous end for sewing pieces securely. βœ— Not marking joint and wire locations leads to inaccurate attachment points; mark the holes for plastic joints and wings frames with contrasting thread as shown and check positions with photos before inserting hardware.

Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

Bring a lovable Toothless-inspired dragon to life with this detailed crochet pattern. You will enjoy clear, photo-guided steps and full instructions for shaping, wiring, and assembly. Perfect for makers who like a bit of structure and a lot of personality in their amigurumi projects.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Toothless Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 454 (dark gray) - quantity as needed
  • 02
    Fine/4ply yarn Yarn Art Baby Cotton 50g/165m (50% cotton, 50% acrylic) - Color 460 (black) - quantity as needed
  • 03
    Lace weight/1ply yarn Alpina Lena 50g/280m (100% mercerized cotton) - Color 10 (yellow) - small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Toy stuffing material (fiberfill) - sufficient to stuff tail, body, legs and head
  • 05
    Seed beads and small beads for decoration - small quantities
  • 06
    Dry pastel of black color for tinting wings and tail fins - small amount

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 1.25 mm
  • 03
    Wire for the frame: diameter 0.9mm - lengths: 23cm (2pcs), 19cm (4pcs), 13cm (2pcs)
  • 04
    Wire for the frame: diameter 1.6mm - length: 45cm (for tail/body frame)
  • 05
    Plastic joints size 25mm for hind legs (2pcs)
  • 06
    Plastic joints size 15mm for forelegs (2pcs)
  • 07
    Cotter pin disks size 25mm - 4pcs
  • 08
    Cotter pin disks size 15mm - 4pcs
  • 09
    T-shaped cotter pins 20*2 - 4pcs
  • 10
    Round nose pliers
  • 11
    Hot glue gun
  • 12
    Beading needle and needle with a blunt end
  • 13
    Sewing pins (for placement)
  • 14
    Scissors
  • 15
    Tapes: insulating tape for wrapping wire frame connections
  • 16
    Fishing line or nylon thread for sewing seed beads
  • 17
    Yarn needle (tapestry needle) for sewing pieces

Progress Tracker

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β€” Head :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes exactly in the middle of the back. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

66sc (66)

Round 13 :

5sc, inc, (10sc, inc)*5, 5sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

72sc (8 rounds)

Round 22 :

18sc, (BLO 36sc), 18sc (72)

Round 23 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 24 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 25 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 26 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 27 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, ch3

Round 28 :

skip 2 stitches before marker and 2 stitches after marker, next crochet 1sc, dec, (3sc, dec)*6, 3sc, 1sc on the chain (32)

Round 29 :

2sc on the chain, dec, (2sc, dec)*7 (24)

Round 30 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 31 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 32 :

6dec (6)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, tighten the hole. We will use the hole in round 27-28 to bring the wire frame from the body into the head.

Info :

Attach the dark gray yarn to the first unused front loop of round 21 (keep the hole away from you) and crochet: 17sc, 2hdcinc, 17sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, hide the ends inside.

β€” Eyes (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with 1ply yarn Alpina Lena of yellow color, hook size 1.25mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2sc)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

3sc, 2hdcinc, 2sc (short round)

Info :

Cut the yarn, fasten off, weave in the ends (bring all the ends to the front side). We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side out, as it is less relief than the front.

Infos :

On the wrong side of the eye, draw a pupil with black textile paint and a glare with white paint. HDC increases in round 5 are located in the upper inner corner of the eyes. PS: If desired, eyes, pupils and glare can be cut out of felt and glued together. Leave the eyes on the head fixed with sewing pins. We will sew and glue all the pieces at the very end, when we assemble all the other pieces and place them in the places we like. When decorating the head focus on 2hdcinc of edging of the head. This is the center of the face.

β€” Eyelids (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch9, start in the second chain from the hook: sl st, 6sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. The mood of the dragon depends on the location of the eyelids. You can make him angry or a little sad. Try several options for the location of the eyelids and choose what you like best.

β€” Ears (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round passes on the side in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

4sc, inc, 4sc (10)

Round 4 :

4sc, inc, 5sc (11)

Round 5 :

5sc, inc, 5sc (12)

Round 6 :

(inc, 5sc)*2 (14)

Round 7-8 :

14sc (2 rounds)

Round 9 :

6sc, dec, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 6sc (12)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 6sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces.

β€” Spines :

Spines 1 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 2 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Info :

Fold in half and crochet through both sides 4sc. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

Spines 3 (make 2) :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6sc (6)

Round 3 :

(1sc, dec)*2 (4)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix with sewing pins to the head (see the location in the photo).

β€” Hind Legs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch8, start on the second chain from the hook.

Round 1 :

6sc, 4sc in the last chain, on the other side of the chain: 5sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

inc, 5sc, 4inc, 5sc, 2inc (24)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 5sc, (1hdc, hdcinc)*4, 5sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (31)

Round 4 :

9sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*4, 9sc - short round (you may have a different number of stitches).

Info :

Move the marker. It should pass at the back, in the center of the heel. Guideline - a straight line of the foundation chain. Align it in the process by crocheting extra stitches.

Round 5 :

31sc (31)

Round 6 :

(4sc, dec)*2, 7sc, (dec, 4sc)*2 (27)

Round 7 :

6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (24)

Round 8 :

6sc, 6dec, 6sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

18sc (5 rounds)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part (foot).

Round 14 :

(5sc, inc)*3 (21)

Round 15-16 :

21sc (2 rounds)

Info :

Left hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (21). 18. 13sc, 2sc on the chain, 6sc (21). 19. 21sc (21). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21 sc (3 rounds).

Info :

Right hind leg. For plastic joints legs fastening: 17. 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (21). 18. 6sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (21). 19. 21sc (21). For cotter pins legs fastening: 17-19. 21sc (3 rounds).

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D25mm is suitable). When using a cotter pin, move 2 rounds down and away from the marker: 7sc to the left (for the right hind leg); 7sc to the right (for the left hind leg) and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 20 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 21 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside. Pay attention to the photo below. As an example, two ways of fastening shown: cotter pin - on the right foot and plastic joint - on the left. Choose the option you like and use it for the hind and forelegs.

β€” Forelegs :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

5sc, (3-dc Bobble st in black, 2sc in dark gray)*3, 4sc

Round 5-7 :

18sc (3 rounds)

Round 8 :

8sc, dec, 8sc (17)

Round 9 :

17sc (17)

Round 10 :

5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc (15)

Round 11 :

15sc (15)

Round 12 :

6sc, dec, 7sc (14)

Round 13 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Round 15 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Round 16 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Begin to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. While stuffing tightly only the lower part.

Left foreleg (for plastic joints) - Round 17 :

6sc, 2inc, 1sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Left foreleg (for plastic joints) - Round 18 :

dec, 9sc, 2sc on the chain, 1sc, dec (14)

Left foreleg (for cotter pins) - Round 17 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Left foreleg (for cotter pins) - Round 18 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg (for plastic joints) - Round 17 :

3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Right foreleg (for plastic joints) - Round 18 :

dec, 1sc, 2sc on the chain, 9sc, dec (14)

Right foreleg (for cotter pins) - Round 17 :

6sc, 2inc, 6sc (16)

Right foreleg (for cotter pins) - Round 18 :

dec, 12sc, dec (14)

Info :

Select the diameter of the fastening: fold the leg in half and select a disk/joint that occupies the entire internal space of the leg (the disk/joint D15mm is suitable). When using a cotter pin, move 1 round down and away from the marker: 4sc to the left (for the right foreleg), 4sc to the right (for the left foreleg). Count stitches along round 17 and insert the disc with the cotter pin. Continue to gradually stuff the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the upper part slightly.

Round 19 :

(5sc, dec)*2 (12)

Round 20 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Tighten the hole and hide the ends inside.

β€” Wings (make 2) :

Info :

Take dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm, wire with a diameter of 0.9mm (23cm-2pcs., 19cm-4pcs., 13cm-2pcs.). Better take it with a margin. Bend the end of each wire as shown in the photo. In the process be careful, work in rows. There will be rows where we will make t-ch and turn and rows where we will skip 1 stitch.

Info :

Ch28, start from the second chain on the hook, working around the wire 23cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 1 :

27sc (27), turn. After that do not work with the wire.

Round 2 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc, dec, 12sc, dec (22), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc, dec, 6sc (18), turn.

Round 4 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), turn.

Round 6 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), turn.

Round 7 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 8 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), turn.

Round 9 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 10 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), ch3, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 11 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 3sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 2sc along stitches of the previous row (18), turn.

Round 12 :

from the 2nd stitch: 15sc, dec (16), turn.

Round 13 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc (7), turn.

Round 14 :

from the 2nd stitch: 6sc (6), turn.

Round 15 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (10), turn.

Round 16 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), t-ch, turn.

Round 17 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row (13), turn (1 stitch of the previous row remains unused!)

Round 18 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), t-ch, turn.

Round 19 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 20 :

from the 2nd stitch: 8sc (8), t-ch, turn.

Round 21 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), turn.

Round 22 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc, inc (5), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 19cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 23 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 5sc, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 3sc along stitches of the previous row, +1sc into the corner, 1sc along stitch of the previous row, +2sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn.

Round 24 :

from the 2nd stitch: 18sc (18), turn.

Round 25 :

from the 2nd stitch: 17sc (17), turn.

Round 26 :

from the 2nd stitch: 16sc (16), turn.

Round 27 :

from the 2nd stitch: 14sc (14), turn.

Round 28 :

from the 2nd stitch: 13sc (13), t-ch, turn.

Round 29 :

from the 2nd stitch: 11sc (11), turn.

Round 30 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc, inc (11), t-ch, turn.

Round 31 :

from the 2nd stitch: 9sc (9), turn.

Round 32 :

from the 2nd stitch: 7sc, inc (9), 3ch, turn.

Info :

Next, crochet with a wire 13cm long (start from the bend end).

Round 33 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 8sc (8), turn.

Round 34 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc (4), turn.

Round 35 :

from the 2nd stitch: 3sc (3), turn.

Round 36 :

from the 2nd stitch: 2sc, +1sc into the corner, 4sc along stitches of the previous row (7), turn.

Round 37 :

from the 2nd stitch: 4sc, dec (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 38 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5), t-ch, turn.

Round 39 :

from the 2nd stitch: 5sc (5)

Infos :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Bend the wire frame along the upper side of the wing. Make an edging along the frame. Attach the dark gray yarn to the marked points in the photo (the exit point of the first wire) and crochet sc along the upper side of the wing (see photo). The green arrow shows the direction of crocheting.

β€” Tail :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. The marker of the beginning of the round should pass at the back, in the center. If necessary, crochet extra stitches.

Round 1 :

4sc in a MR (6)

Round 2-4 :

4sc (3 rounds)

Round 5 :

(1sc, inc)*2 (6)

Round 6-8 :

6sc (3 rounds)

Round 9 :

(2sc, inc)*2 (8)

Round 10-11 :

8sc (2 rounds)

Round 12 :

(3sc, inc)*2 (10)

Round 13 :

10sc (10)

Round 14 :

2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)

Round 15 :

12sc (12)

Round 16 :

(5sc, inc)*2 (14)

Round 17 :

14sc (14)

Round 18 :

3sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (16)

Round 19 :

16sc (16)

Round 20 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 21-22 :

18sc (2 rounds)

Round 23 :

4sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 4sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

20sc (3 rounds)

Round 27 :

(9sc, inc)*2 (22)

Round 28-30 :

22sc (3 rounds)

Round 31 :

5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

24sc (2 rounds)

Round 34 :

(11sc, inc)*2 (26)

Round 35-36 :

26sc (2 rounds)

Round 37 :

6sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 6sc (28)

Round 38 :

28sc

Round 39 :

(13sc, inc)*2 (30)

Infos :

Do not cut the yarn. We will crochet the body. Prepare a wire frame. We need a wire with a diameter of 1.6mm and 45cm long. Bend one end, as shown in the photo. Insert the frame into the tail and stuff it.

β€” Body :

Info :

Continue crocheting from the tail. The marker of the beginning of the round passes in the back in the middle. If necessary, crochet extra stitches. Start counting rounds from the beginning for convenience. Focus on 4 inc in round 1.

Round 1 :

11sc, inc, 1sc, 4inc, 1sc, inc, 11sc (36)

Round 2 :

6sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 6sc (38)

Round 3 :

14sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 14sc (40)

Round 4 :

10sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 10sc (42)

Round 5 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 6 :

48sc (48)

Round 7 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 8-9 :

54sc (2 rounds)

Info :

In round 10 crochet the holes for the hind legs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

For plastic joints legs fastening - Round 10 :

13sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 24sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 13sc (54)

For plastic joints legs fastening - Round 11 :

13sc, 2sc on the chain, 24sc, 2sc on the chain, 13sc (54)

For cotter pins legs fastening - Round 10 :

54sc (mark space between stitches 14 and 15 and stitches 40 and 41 with a thread in a contrasting color for convenience) (54)

Round 11 :

54sc (54)

Round 12-16 :

54sc (5 rounds)

Round 17 :

8sc, dec, (16sc, dec)*2, 8sc (51)

Round 18 :

20sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 20sc (49)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the hind legs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure.

Round 19 :

49sc (49)

Round 20 :

20sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 20sc (47)

Round 21 :

47sc (47)

Round 22 :

21sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 21sc (45)

Round 23 :

(13sc, dec)*3 (42)

Round 24 :

42sc (42)

Round 25 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 26 :

39sc (39)

Round 27 :

(11sc, dec)*3 (36)

Info :

In round 28 crochet the holes for the wings frames, forelegs joints fastening and mark the place for the cotter pins fastening.

For plastic joints (Round 28) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 4sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 16sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 4sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) - don't confuse! Ch1 - for the wings frames, ch2 - for the plastic joints.

For plastic joints (Round 29) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 4sc, 2sc on the chain, 16sc, 2sc on the chain, 4sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

For cotter pins (Round 28) :

3sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 28sc, ch1, skip 1sc, 3sc (36) (mark space between stitches 9 and 10 and stitches 27 and 28 with a thread in a contrasting color)

For cotter pins (Round 29) :

3sc, 1sc on the chain, 28sc, 1sc on the chain, 3sc (36)

Round 30 :

8sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 8sc (34)

Round 31 :

34sc (34)

Round 32 :

(15sc, dec)*2 (32)

Round 33 :

32sc (32)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins / joints of the forelegs into the marked points / holes of ch2 in the body and twist / secure (in the same way as for the hind legs).

Round 34 :

7sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 7sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wire frame of the wings into the holes in round 28, connect it with the body frame, wrap it with insulating tape. Sew the wings to the back.

Round 35 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*2, 4sc (27)

Round 36 :

(7sc, dec)*3 (24)

Round 37 :

24sc (24)

Info :

It is not necessary to stuff the neck tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Pass the wire frame into the hole on the head in rounds 27-28, and sew the head to the body, as shown in the photo.

β€” Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm. Ch13, start from the second chain on the hook, work in rows in back loops.

Round 1 :

12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 2 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 3 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 4 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13), turn.

Round 5 :

from the 2nd stitch: 12sc (12), ch3, turn

Round 6 :

from the 2nd chain: 2sc, 11sc (13)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Fix the tail fins to the tip of the tail (see photo) and sew.

β€” Spines (make 16) :

Info :

Crochet with dark gray yarn, hook size 2 mm - 4sc in a MR. Pull the ring. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end for sewing pieces. Attach the spines to the tail, body and head (see photo) and sew. Sew on seed beads if desired.

Info :

Tint the wings and tail fins with black dry pastel.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the wire frame from the body into the head through the hole created in rounds 27-28 of the head, then sew the head to the body securely using the long yarn tail left when finishing the body.
  • Attach the wing wire frames into the holes made in round 28 of the body and connect them to the body frame; wrap the connection with insulating tape and sew the wing fabric to the back to secure.
  • Choose either plastic joints or cotter pin fastening for legs: fold the leg, select a disk that fits the inner cavity, insert the disk and secure with the cotter pin or insert plastic joint as indicated, then twist/secure inside the body holes marked at round 10/28.
  • Position eyes, eyelids, ears and spines with sewing pins according to photos before permanently sewing; embroider or paint pupils and glare on the wrong side of the yellow eye discs, then sew or glue in place.
  • Sew tail fins to the tip of the tail, attach spines along head, back and tail, and if desired sew on seed beads for extra texture; hide and weave in all ends to finish.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Keep the stitch marker located at the back center of the piece to maintain symmetry; shift the marker with an extra stitch if rounds become misaligned.
  • πŸ’‘Do not stuff the neck tightly; stuff lower limbs more firmly and upper body lightly to preserve correct proportions.
  • πŸ’‘Leave long yarn tails when finishing pieces to use for sewing; it makes assembly far easier and more secure.
  • πŸ’‘Mark holes for joints and wing frames with contrasting thread before inserting hardware to ensure correct placement and alignment.
  • πŸ’‘Work slowly when inserting and bending wire frames; wrap connections with insulating tape to avoid sharp wire ends and secure structure.

This Toothless-inspired dragon amigurumi is designed for makers who love detailed assembly and a playful final result. The pattern uses wired wings and a sturdy joint system to create a posable, display-ready dragon. With 16 tiny spines, embroidered eyes, and optional bead decoration, this little dragon will be a favorite companion. πŸ‰πŸ§Ά

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The size of the finished toy when using the indicated materials is about 30cm.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight but it affects final size and required wire lengths; use an appropriate hook for your chosen yarn and adjust frame sizes if needed.

Do I need metal wire and joints for this project?

The pattern uses wire frames for wings and a 1.6mm wire for tail/body stability, plus plastic or cotter pin joints for legs; alternatives may change poseability but are possible.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

This project is a multi-day effort and generally takes about 12-15 hours depending on your experience and assembly speed.