Create a long, lacy table runner inspired by spring mimosa blooms. This pattern features a neutral cream mesh ground, scalloped yellow edge, and embroidered applique sprays with textured yellow buds and green leaves. The design is worked flat in a simple v-stitch grid and finished with decorative scallops and layered appliques for a warm, timeless table accent.
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— Notes & Gauge :
Info :
Gauge is flexible for this decorative runner. With worsted cotton and 3.5mm hook, 10 mesh rows = approximately 4 inches. Final measurements shown assume foundation chain 123 and 80 mesh rows producing a runner approx. 13-15" wide and 66-74" long. Adjust foundation chain multiple to lengthen or shorten. The mesh uses a V-stitch repeat; foundation chain must be a multiple of 4 + 3 (for example 123, 127, 131).
— Foundation & Main Mesh Panel :
Row 1 :
Chain 123 (multiple of 4 + 3). Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as first dc). *Ch1, skip next ch, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch; repeat from * across to last 2 ch; ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in last ch. (60 V-stitches plus 2 edge dcs - approximate count)
Info :
Place a stitch marker in the top of the turning chain each row to mark row start. This keeps your mesh straight and prevents accidental row drift.
Row 2 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), turn. Dc in first st, *ch1, skip ch1 sp, (dc, ch1, dc) in ch1 space of v-stitch below; repeat from * across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. (same count as previous)
Row 3 :
Repeat Row 2. Work evenly. (maintain same number of V-stitches across; approx 60)
Row 4 :
Repeat Row 2. Keep tension consistent; the piece will begin to form a stable open grid. (same count)
Info :
If you prefer a slightly tighter fabric, work these rows using a 3.25mm hook; for looser airier mesh, try 3.75mm. Always check that your appliques will sit nicely on the mesh before finishing.
Row 5 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 6 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 7 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Every 8-10 rows you may want to lightly block the section you have to keep edges straight and the grid consistent. Light steam blocking or wet blocking works well with cotton yarn.
Row 8 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 9 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 10 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 11 :
Repeat Row 2. Continue maintaining even tension and consistent ch-1 spaces. (mesh)
Info :
To avoid a scalloped edge from the turning chains, make sure your first and last stitch placements are even; count a few repeats periodically to ensure you have not gained or lost stitches.
Row 12 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 13 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 14 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 15 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
If making a longer runner, continue these even rows until you reach the desired length. The sample runner uses 80 rows total; if yours will be longer or shorter, keep appliques placement in mind (they sit centered along length).
Row 16 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 17 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 18 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 19 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Mark the center lengthwise of your panel with pins so you can place the first long spray exactly in the middle. You will create six identical floral sprays spaced evenly along the runner length in the sample.
Row 20 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 21 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 22 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 23 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
At rows where you will place the bottom of motifs, you may want to mark the specific v-stitches where stems will be stitched down. A simple removable marker or pin works well.
Row 24 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 25 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 26 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 27 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
If you plan slight asymmetry in the sprays (off-center leaves) plan and mark those positions now. Otherwise we'll place motifs centered at the same column of v-stitches each time.
Row 28 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 29 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 30 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 31 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Begin pinning the first motif placement by measuring equal distances from each short edge to ensure even spacing between the six sprays shown in the photo. Allow approx. 10-12 inches between motif centers in the sample.
Row 32 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 33 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 34 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 35 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Check your row count against the photo spacing. If you wish to place fewer or more sprays, adjust the number and spacing so they look balanced on your runner length.
Row 36 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 37 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 38 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 39 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
If you wish to embroider veins on leaves or add tiny French knot buds instead of crocheted buds, plan that now — embroidery is easiest when done before sewing leaves down.
Row 40 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 41 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 42 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 43 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
At this mid-section you may want to stop and check the piece width and straightness. Block now if edges are cupping or uneven before continuing to full length.
Row 44 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 45 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 46 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 47 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
For the sample runner the mesh continues to row 80. If you're following the sample follow through to Row 80. If making a shorter runner, stop earlier and begin border rounds when achieving desired length.
Row 48 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 49 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 50 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 51 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Continue to maintain stitch counts; if you accidentally skip a V-stitch, you will see a slight lateral dip. It's worth unpicking a few rows to fix placement rather than continuing.
Row 52 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 53 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 54 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 55 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
If your runner is curling at the edges slightly, a small amount of blocking will flatten it. Cotton responds well to wet-blocking and will relax into a flat piece.
Row 56 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 57 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 58 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 59 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Begin planning the border: the scallop edging shown is worked in yellow and uses a small shell stitch that fits the v-stitch grid. Mark every corner v-stitch to form rounded scallops at the short ends.
Row 60 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 61 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 62 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 63 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
At Rows 64-68 start positioning pins for the six mimosa sprays: mark the center column and then columns slightly offset (for leaves to sit naturally to one side) so each spray looks like a small branch leaning diagonally.
Row 64 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 65 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 66 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 67 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Info :
Row 68 in the sample is considered the final mesh row before edging begins at Row 69. If you worked to 80 as previously noted, continue to Row 80 and then start edging at Row 81 instead.
Row 68 :
Repeat Row 2. (mesh)
Row 69 :
Fasten off cream yarn if you will switch to yellow for scalloped edge. We will add a one-round join in yellow and then scallops around the perimeter.
— Scalloped Border (worked in yellow) :
Round 69 :
With right side facing, join yellow yarn in any corner v-space with a sl st. Ch1, sc evenly around the perimeter working 1 sc in each edge stitch or v-space (approx 246 sc around - count to confirm), place 3 sc in each corner to round corner. Join with sl st to first sc.
Info :
The exact number of sc around your piece will vary by tension and exact row count. The important part is to work evenly spaced sc along the edges so scallop shells below line up nicely. If there are gaps, add or remove a few sc between shells to distribute evenly.
Round 70 :
Ch1, turn. *Skip 2 sc, 7 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sl st in next sc; repeat from * around to create scallops. In corners work 9 dc for a fuller curve. Join with sl st to first dc. (scalloped edge formed)
Round 71 :
Optional shallow picot round: Ch1, sl st into top of each shell every other dc to add tiny points. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block scalloped runner flat to set shells.
Info :
If you prefer a narrower scallop, work 5-dc shells instead of 7-dc shells. For a more dramatic scallop, increase to 9-dc shells. Match the photograph by using 7-dc shells and a bright sunny yellow.
— Flower Spray Applique Overview :
Info :
Each mimosa spray is made as a modular set: one central stem strip, 3 layered leaves (large, medium, small), and a multi-branch bud spray formed by working small popcorn buds along slender crocheted branches. Make 6 identical sprays for the sample runner and sew them to the mesh panel as indicated.
— Stem Strip (Make 6) :
Round 1 :
Using green yarn, ch 38 (or length required to span from near bottom of motif to top; adjust ch length to match your spacing). Turn—this chain forms the backbone of the stem.
Round 2 :
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across to last ch. (37 sc) Fasten off and leave a 12" tail for sewing. This strip is a flat narrow stem. For a rounder stem you can work hdc across instead of sc to get a thicker trunk.
Info :
For a slightly corded stem, make 2 strips and sew them together offset, or use an i-cord style technique. The sample uses a single flat strip with surface slip-stitch 'veining' added before sewing for depth.
Round 3 :
Optional: With same green, using the tail and surface slip stitch along the center on RS, work sl st into every 2nd sc to create a raised ridge down the center of the stem. Secure and weave in ends.
— Leaf (Large) : (Make 6)
Round 1 :
With green yarn, ch 12. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 4 ch (5 sc). In last ch work 3 sc (to turn the tip), continue down the other side of foundation ch working 4 sc, sc in last ch. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc total)
Round 2 :
Ch1, sc in first st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in each of the 3 tip sts, hdc in next 3, sc in last st. (shape building) Fasten off leaving 10" tail for sewing. (approx 14-16 sts after increases)
Info :
Work leaves flat and shape the tip with 3 or more sts to create a rounded tip. Block leaves lightly to set shape. Optionally embroider a center vein with darker green before attaching.
Round 3 :
If you wish to add texture, work 1 row of crab stitch (reverse sc) around the leaf edge to define it: join at any point, crab st around, fasten off.
— Leaf (Medium) : (Make 6)
Round 1 :
Ch 10. Sc in 2nd ch and next 3 ch. In last ch work 3 sc; sc down opposite side for 4 sts. Join. (10 sc)
Round 2 :
Ch1, sc in first 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Fasten off with a tail for sewing. Block lightly.
Info :
Make three leaves per spray in the sample: one large, one medium, and one small. Arrange leaves with the large toward the base of the stem and smaller leaves higher up for natural appearance.
— Leaf (Small) : (Make 6)
Round 1 :
Ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch and next 2 ch; in last ch 3 sc; sc back down other side for 3 sts. Join. (8 sc)
Round 2 :
Ch1, sc around or sc, hdc, sc in tip and reverse down. Fasten off with tail for sewing. Optionally add a tiny picot at the tip for detail.
Info :
Leaves are deliberately flat and slightly cupped; wet-block to cup them gently so they sit naturally against the mesh when sewn down.
— Bud Spray Branch (Make 6 - each spray contains multiple branches) :
Round 1 :
Using green yarn, ch 18 to form a slender branch. For each bud position along this branch you will work a small popcorn or cluster in yellow as described below. Turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (17 sc)
Round 2 :
Ch1, turn, working in the bumps across the ch, sc across. Fasten off leaving long tail for attachment to main stem. Make 5 such slender branches for each spray (you will vary lengths: e.g., 18, 16, 14, 12, 10 ch).
Info :
The flower ‘buds’ are clustered small popcorns worked into tiny chains along the branch. They are sewn onto the branch after being made into tiny bobbles or crocheted directly as popcorns into the branch if you prefer.
— Tiny Bud (Make many - sample uses approx 30 buds per spray) :
Round 1 :
Using bright yellow and a small hook (3.0mm or 2.75mm), make a magic ring. Ch1, 5 sc in ring. Pull tight. (5)
Round 2 :
Do not join. *5 dc in the same st, remove hook, insert hook through top of the 5 dc, pull loop to close into a popcorn; secure with sl st into next sc. Repeat to create a tiny popcorn bud. Fasten off leaving a 6-8" tail for sewing OR make each bud as a 5-dc popcorn directly into a bud branch as you work the branch (see alternate below).
Alternate Info :
Alternate method: With yellow, working into a chosen sc on a branch, *work 5 dc in same st, remove hook and pull through to form popcorn, sl st into next sc to lock; this avoids making separate buds but requires careful placement.
Round 3 :
Make the required number of buds. Sample uses approx 30 tiny buds per spray arranged along the five slender branches (6 buds per slender branch, varying by branch length). Position the buds in clusters (2-4 close together) to mimic mimosa sprays.
Info :
Make many buds ahead of time and pin them on the mesh to inspect spacing. You can also use small French knots with embroidery thread for even tinier buds if you prefer not to crochet individual popcorns.
— Assembling Each Spray :
Step 1 :
Lay the panel flat and position the stem strip onto your marked central v-space column. The bottom end of stem should sit about 2 mesh rows above the runner short edge to mirror the photo spacing.
Step 2 :
Place the large leaf near the base of the stem on the left side, the medium leaf slightly above it on the right side, and the small leaf near the upper part of the stem on the left, creating a staggered, natural arrangement. Pin each leaf in place using sewing pins.
Info :
Tip: position leaves so that the tips point slightly outward; this avoids crowding adjacent motifs. Leave at least 8-12 rows between motif centers along the length of the runner to avoid overlap.
Step 3 :
Arrange the five slender bud branches fanning from the main stem along the top portion of the stem, shorter branches near the tip and longer branches near the mid-stem. Pin them in a pleasing fan arrangement similar to the reference photo.
Round Info :
Sew the stem strip down first using the long tail and a whip stitch or mattress stitch into the mesh v-spaces. Use small, neat stitches through the v-spaces to secure firmly but invisibly. Then sew leaves to the stem and mesh by weaving the yarn tail through the underside of the mesh v-spaces and through leaf foundation rows.
Step 4 :
Sew each tiny yellow bud down: place a bud at marked positions on the slender branches and stitch using the long tail. If you made popcorns directly on branch, secure branch into the stem and mesh using the branch tail. Work slowly and step back frequently to check balance.
Info :
For added stability, when sewing buds and branches through the mesh, go through both loops of the mesh and around the foundation of the star of the v-stitch so the applique sits flush and will not flip up with use.
— Alternative Bud Attachment Option (Embroidered) :
Info :
If you prefer not to crochet many tiny buds, you can embroider clusters of French knots in bright yellow directly onto the mesh. Use two strands of embroidery floss and make dense clusters for the mimosa effect. This approach is faster but less 3D.
— Final Finishing Touches :
Info :
After sewing all six sprays in place, weave in all tails securely on the WS and trim. Lightly steam-block or wet-block the entire runner to set the scalloped edge and help appliques sit naturally. Avoid heavy pressing; steam or damp cloth is recommended for cotton yarns.
Optional Round :
For extra framing, add a delicate contrasting chain-lace round between the scallops and the mesh by working sl st into shell tops and chaining 3 between, anchored into mesh v-spaces with sl st. This is decorative and optional.
Info :
Finally, check for loose beads or tails. For pieces that will be laundered, secure all knots and consider sewing the underside of each bud down with a small whip stitch to prevent loosened popcorn edges during washing.
This mimosa table runner brings a sunny, handmade touch to your table. Each carefully crocheted spray adds texture and charm, while the scalloped yellow border frames the whole piece beautifully. The project is a delightful mix of repetitive mesh work and rewarding applique sewing — perfect for a relaxed day of crocheting. 🧶🌼 Enjoy creating each tiny bud and leaf; this runner is sure to become a treasured seasonal accent for your home. 😊
