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Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small, detailed elephant amigurumi named Elf with a removable heart balloon and a movable trunk option. It includes step-by-step rounds for trunk, face, legs, belly, body, head, ears, tail and accessories. The pattern features clear photo references and helpful assembly tips to make finishing easier.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll work with sport weight yarn and small hooks to achieve firm stitches and neat shaping. Optional wire instructions are included for a posable trunk and realistic balloon rope.

Why You'll Love This Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful character and fine detail in a small package that is so satisfying to complete. I enjoy the way the trunk and little heart balloon add personality to the elephant, letting you create a tiny story with each stitch. The step-by-step photos made this pattern delightful to design, and I appreciate how the assembly encourages careful finishing. I love seeing makers add their own color choices and small embroidered touches that make each Elf unique.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love to change the yarn color to completely alter the mood of the elephant; try pastels for a nursery friend or bright colors for a playful toy.

I often switch yarn weight and hook size to change the final scale; using a thicker yarn and larger hook gives a chunky, cuddle-ready elephant.

I like to replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for toys intended for very young children to keep them completely soft and safe.

Try adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf, hat or tiny photo frame to tell Elf’s story and personalize your finished piece.

I sometimes use metallic thread or a small sequin accent on the balloon for a festive variation and subtle sparkle.

For a collection, I vary trunk length and ear size to create a family of elephants with different personalities and stances.

I recommend experimenting with the balloon color and size; you can make mini keychain balloons or larger clouds for display.

Try embroidering freckles, different eyebrow shapes, or a stitched smile to change Elf’s expression and character.

I like to use different stuffing densities — firmer in legs for stability, softer in the head for squeezable cuteness — to change feel and pose.

If you want posability, I sometimes add flexible wire to the legs as well, wrapping carefully and covering with tape to avoid sharp spots.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds can cause you to lose the start of a round; use a marker at the beginning of every round to keep track of your position. ✗ Overstuffing parts makes shaping difficult and distorts joins; stuff gradually, sculpting gently and checking the shape before closing. ✗ Crocheting with inconsistent tension will produce uneven stitches and mismatched parts; maintain steady tension and check stitch counts after each round. ✗ Not securing the wire twists and ends will let the wire work free and create sharp edges; wrap twist points with electrical tape and cover with thread or glue before inserting. ✗ Attaching safety eyes without checking placement can misplace facial features; place pins and check symmetry before fixing eyes permanently. ✗ Forgetting to insert the white felt before closing causes stuffing to stick to the needle; cut a felt circle and insert it into the closing hole to protect stuffing and ease finishing.

Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

Create a sweet little Elephant named Elf with this detailed amigurumi pattern. You will crochet a movable trunk, delicate ears, tusks, cheeks and a heart-shaped balloon with full step-by-step photos and clear instructions. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a charming handmade companion, this pattern guides you through assembly, embroidery and optional wire reinforcement for a playful pose.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Elephant Elf Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Alize Cotton Gold Batik (Sport, 330 m/100 gr) - grey (color shown 2905) for body, trunk, head
  • 02
    Yarn B: YarnArt Jeans (Sport, 160 m/50 gr) - off-white/cream (color 03) for belly, inner ears, details
  • 03
    Yarn C: YarnArt Jeans (Sport, 160 m/50 gr) - pink (color 36) for heart balloon
  • 04
    Small amounts of black, white and pink mouliné threads for eye details and cheeks

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.0 mm (for crocheting elephant)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks and fine details)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouliné for embroidery
  • 05
    5 pins or stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus or polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Sewing needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Floral wire, diameter 1.2 mm (for movable trunk and balloon rope)
  • 13
    Electrical tape (optional – for wrapping wire joints)
  • 14
    Small piece of white felt (for closing holes)
  • 15
    Glossy glaze 'Sculpey' or transparent varnish/acrylic for textile
  • 16
    Round synthetic paint brush (for glaze)
  • 17
    Super Glue 'Moment'
  • 18
    Weighting agent for counterweight (round stone or small metal object wrapped with tape)

Progress Tracker

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— CONVENTIONS :

Info :

l - loop = chain. sc - single crochet; dc - double crochet; sl st - slip stitch; P - picot (small and big, see section "EARS"). inc - increase; dec - decrease; (...) - total number of loops in a round; [...]xN - repeat what is indicated in round brackets N times.

— TRUNK & FACE (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2-6 :

6sc (6l)

Round 7 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 8-10 :

8sc (8l)

Round 11 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 12 :

10sc (10l)

Round 13 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (14l)

Round 16 :

[6sc, inc]x2 (16l)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire 2 - 3 cm (0,8 - 1,2 inches) longer than the trunk (see photo 1). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the trunk opening) with the help of round nose pliers (see photo 2). Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape (see photo 3). Insert crochet trunk to the wire. Crochet and fix the wire on two points to the trunk - before every increase, crocheting the next round (see photos 4-6). If you decide not to use wire, then skip these steps and continue crochet.

Round 17 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 18 :

3sc, [sc, inc]x6, 3sc (24l)

Round 19 :

3sc, [2sc, inc]x6, 3sc (30l)

Round 20 :

3sc, [3sc, inc]x6, 3sc (36l)

Round 21 :

[5sc, inc]x6 (42l) Fill the trunk with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread.

— LEGS 4 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, 3sc in the next loop]x4 (16l)

Round 3 :

2sc, inc, [3sc, inc]x3, sc (20l)

Round 4 :

20sc only through back loops (20l)

Round 5 :

[dec]x2, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, [dec]x2 (20l)

Round 6-9 :

20sc (20l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Don’t remove the pins of the round’s beginning, they also note the place of the legs' and the belly’s connection (see photo 7).

— BELLY (Yarn B) :

Round 1 :

4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (3l)

Round 2-3 :

1 loop, turning, 3sc (3l)

Info :

Crocheted the belly around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" (see photo 8).

Round 4 :

3sc in the corner, 1sc down the side, 3sc in the corner, 3sc across, 3sc in the corner, 1sc up the side, 3sc in the corner, 3sc across (20l)

Info :

In the next round you need to crochet the belly around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point "Start" and join the legs (see photo 9). To connect the details insert the hook initially into the leg, and then into the belly.

Round 5 :

1sc, join the 1st leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 10-13); 3sc down; join the 2nd leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 14, 15); 5sc across; join the 3rd leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 16, 17); 3sc up; join the 4th leg with sc, 19sc around the leg (see photos 18, 19); 4sc across (see photos 20) (96l)

Info :

Don’t cut the thread. Sew holes under the thighs of both legs using extra thread (see photo 21). Start crocheting the body.

— BODY & HEAD (Yarn A) :

Round 1-7 :

96sc (96l)

Info :

Mark with a pin the junction of the face with the body. To do this, move the pin on the 18th loop from the beginning of the face round (see photo 22). Crocheted the next round from the point "Start" and attach the face to the body. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the face (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 23, 24).

Round 8 :

45sc along the body, crochet 6sc of the face together with 6sc of the body, then crochet 45sc along the body (see photo 25)

Round 9 :

[13sc, dec]x3, [5sc, inc]x6, [13sc, dec]x3 (126l) (see photo 26)

Round 10 :

[12sc, dec]x3, [2sc, dec]x3, [2sc, inc]x6, [2sc, dec]x3, [12sc, dec]x3 (120l)

Round 11 :

[11sc, dec]x3, 42sc, [11sc, dec]x3 (114l)

Info :

Put an extra pin on the 32nd loop clockwise from the round’s beginning (see photo 27).

Round 12 :

86sc, 6 loops, sc in the loop marked with a pin (the last sc becomes the beginning of the new round, you need to move the pin) (see photos 28-30)

Info :

After 12th round, the shape has two holes (see photo 31) - hole for the head (left) and hole for the back (right). We continue to work with the left hole for the head (see photos 32, 33).

Round 13 :

60sc (60l)

Round 14 :

[sc, dec]x2, 42sc, [sc, dec]x4 (54l)

Round 15 :

[dec]x2, 42sc, [dec]x4 (48l)

Round 16-17 :

48sc (48l)

Round 18 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 19 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 20 and 21 (count from the top of the trunk), the distance between them is approximately 14 stitches, don’t fix yet (see photo 34). Using yarn needle to do around the eye "loose stitch" with white threads of mouline (see photo 35). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photos 36, 37). Make a "loose stitch" with black threads of mouline around the upper half of the eye (see photos 38, 39). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle "loose stitch" (see photos 40, 41). Embroider a cilia (see photos 42, 43). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it. Embroider the stripes on the trunk (see photo 44).

Round 20 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 21 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 22 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 23 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head.

Round 24 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Cut a circle out of white felt, it should be a little larger than the resulting hole (see photo 67, 68). Insert it into the hole in order to synthepus does not cling to the needle during closing the detail. Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using the yarn needle. Tighten and secure. See the holes between the neck and the head (see photo 69).

— BACK (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

[9sc, dec]x6 (60l)

Round 2 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

Round 3 :

54sc (54l)

Round 4 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Info :

Fill the legs with synthepus.

Round 5 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 6 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 7 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus. Place the counterweight in the hole in the back (so that the head does not outweigh and the elephant stands steadily). You can use a round heavy object (stone or metal detail wrapped with electrical tape) as a counterweight.

Round 8 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 9 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 10 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

Round 11 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Cut a circle out of white felt, insert into the hole to prevent stuffing cling, trim the thread, pass thread through all loops using yarn needle, tighten and secure. See the holes between the neck and the back.

— TOES (Yarn B, in two folds) :

Info :

TOES, 3 pcs on each leg. Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 76-81).

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Info :

Leave the long end of the thread, it will be needed for sewing. Crochet 10 loops (see photo 82). Make a brush at the end of the tail: use the hook to pull out the loop on 1 cm (0,4 inches). Wrap the thread around the loop and tighten it tightly, creating a knot (see photos 83, 84). In the same way make 4 more loops (see photo 85-87). Swipe your scissors through the loops and cut it in half one by one (see photo 88). Cut the thread and trim the brush and fluff it with the needle (see photo 89). Sew the tail to the body (see photo 90). Don’t cut the thread, but "squeeze" the head to the body with a few stitches (see photo 91-93).

— EARS (2 pcs) :

Info :

The inner part of the ear is crocheted with Yarn B, and the outer part with Yarn A according to the same pattern (see photo 94).

Round 1 :

9 loops, turning, 8sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (8l)

Round 2 :

inc, 6sc, inc (10l)

Round 3-5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Round 7-9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 11 :

10sc (10l)

Round 12 :

8sc, dec (9l)

Round 13 :

dec, 7sc (8l)

Round 14 :

6sc, dec (7l)

Round 15 :

dec, 5sc (6l)

Round 16 :

2dc, 2sc, dec (5l) Cut and fasten the thread on the inner ear, and do not cut on the outer ear. Fold the left and right ears as shown in photos 95, 96.

Info :

RIGHT EAR (by the observer): 17: 15sc up, 8sc straight, 15sc down, 5sc straight (43l). 18: 3 sl st, [P* small]x2, [P* big]x3. P* - picot. Picot small = 3 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 1sc, sl st into the next sc. Picot big = 5 loops, dc in the 1st loop, skip 2sc, sl st into the next sc. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Info :

LEFT EAR (by the observer): 17: 5sc straight, 15sc up, 8sc straight, 15sc down (43l). 18: 1 loop, turning, 3 sl st, [P* small]x2, [P* big]x3. P* - picot. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the ears to the head, prefixed with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry.

— CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouliné) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 50, 51).

— TUSKS, 2 pcs (Yarn B) :

Info :

Tusks are crocheted in the form of a cord of two threads at once. At the beginning leave the long end of the thread. Put the end of the thread on the hook, then grab the working thread and pull it through two loops on the hook, crochet 5 more loops in the same way. Trim and secure the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the tusks to the head (see photos 58-60).

— FORELOCK (Yarn A) :

Info :

Forelock positioned in the top of the head. Insert the needle and pull out the thread, then insert it in the same place (see photo 61). Do not tighten the thread to the end, but leave a 1 cm (0,4 inches) long "loose stitch" (see photo 62). Secure the "loose stitch" from the wrong side, making a knot. Make another 4 loops in the same way (see photo 63, 64). Swipe your scissors through all loops and cut it in half (see photo 65). Trim the forelock from both sides to get a triangular shape (see photos 66). Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

— HEAD FINISHING :

Round 20 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 21 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 22 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 23 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 24 :

[dec]x6 (6l) Cut a circle of felt and insert it into the hole before closing, then pass the thread through all loops and secure.

— BALLOON :

HEART (Yarn C) - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 4 :

18sc (18l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 6 :

24sc (24l) Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail by the same scheme and do not cut the thread to join.

Round 7 (incomplete) :

Crochet 6sc of the first detail together with 6sc of the second detail, then crochet 18sc along the second detail (see photo 113).

Round 8 :

Crochet 18sc on the first part, crochet 18sc on the second part (36l)

Round 9 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 10 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 11 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l) Start stuffing the heart with synthepus.

Round 12 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Round 13 :

12sc (12l) Completely fill the heart.

Round 14 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Round 15 :

6sc (6l)

Round 16 :

[inc]x6, sl st in 1st sc (12l) Cut and fix the thread, push the end of the thread into the heart.

BALLOON ROPE :

Cut off a piece of wire approximately 20 cm (7,9 inches) long. Wrap the wire with a thread: glue the thread to the wire leaving the long end of the thread free. Spread a small section of the wire with glue and wrap it tightly with the thread in a spiral. Repeat until all the wire is wrapped. Cover the wire with transparent glossy acrylic glaze and leave to dry. Using a hook pull the free long end of the thread through the bottom of the heart and pull the wire inward. Wrap the bottom of the ball with the thread and make a bow. Attach the balloon rope to the leg or to the trunk (see photos 128, 129). Embrace your elephant!

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the legs to the belly by joining each leg opening to the belly perimeter as worked in Round 5 of the belly, aligning pins and securing with whipstitch.
  • Join the face to the body by crocheting 6sc of the face together with 6sc of the body at Round 8, inserting the hook first into the face then into the body for a neat join.
  • Insert safety eyes between rounds 20 and 21 of the head (approximately 14 stitches apart), embroider the white and black loose stitches around the eye, then secure the eye and embroider lashes and eyebrows.
  • Sew the ears to the head using the long ends left for sewing, fix them with pins to check symmetry and use small stitches to secure the inner and outer ear layers together.
  • Attach tusks and cheeks to the head using the long sewing tails and small stitches; position following photo references so they frame the trunk.
  • Insert the counterweight into the back opening before finishing the back rounds so the elephant stands steadily; close and secure the felt circle and finishing stitches as instructed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and the start point, especially when joining parts like face to body.
  • 💡The wire in the trunk and balloon rope is optional and should be used with caution; avoid for toys intended for babies or young children.
  • 💡Insert a small felt circle into holes before closing to prevent stuffing from clinging to the needle while finishing.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but not overfull; gradual stuffing while shaping gives the best final form and avoids lumps.

This Elephant Elf amigurumi is a tiny charmer that brings personality to every stitch. Its movable trunk option and sweet heart balloon make it a perfect gift or keepsake. Add your favorite colors and small embroidered details to create a one-of-a-kind friend. 🧶💕

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 11 cm (4.3 inches) high without the balloon when made with the recommended sport yarn and hooks.

Can I make the trunk posable and the balloon rope movable?

Yes, the pattern includes optional wire instructions for a posable trunk and a wrapped wire balloon rope; use electrical tape and glue to cover wire junctions and avoid sharp ends.

Is this pattern suitable for beginners?

This pattern is rated intermediate due to shaping, joining multiple parts and embroidery steps; basic amigurumi and stitch knowledge is recommended.

How long will it take to complete this pattern?

Most crocheters finish this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience and whether you include optional wiring and embroidery details.