This long, oval Christmas table runner features three smiling Santa faces, two layered evergreen trees, candy canes and delicate snowflakes on a creamy background edged with a deep red scalloped border and tassels. The runner is worked in sturdy worsted-weight cotton-style yarn for a lovely textured, farmhouse holiday look. Perfect for a dining table or sideboard, this pattern includes detailed motif instructions and clear assembly tips for accurate placement and a professional finish.
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— Materials and Gauge :
Info :
Gauge is not critical for this type of runner but will affect final dimensions. Using worsted-weight cotton-style yarn and a 5.0mm hook, each round of even sc on the main base should measure approximately 1.0–1.2 cm in width. Final runner pictured measures roughly 36 cm wide at the widest point and 120–130 cm long including tassels. Adjust hook or yarn weight to change size.
— Abbreviations & Special Stitches :
Info :
'Pop' or puff stitch used frequently in this pattern: yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, yo and pull up loop (repeat yo, insert, yo, pull up loop 3 times total so you have 7 loops on hook), yo and draw through all loops, ch 1 to close. Counts as 1 puff/pop. For a 5-loop puff you'll have different counts. When working pops as clusters, treat each puff as a single stitch for stitch counts.
— Base Oval (Main Runner Body) :
Notes :
The base is worked in continuous rounds to create an elongated oval. We begin with a foundation chain and work evenly around with increases at the ends to create the rounded tips. The cream background is worked first; motifs are added later.
Foundation :
Ch 38 (this gives the width for the runner shown). Do not join; working in continuous rounds create the oval shape.
Round 1 :
1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 36 ch (37), 3 sc in last ch (3), now continue working down the opposite side of foundation chain: 1 sc in next 36 ch (36), 3 sc in the final chain (3) — total around (78).
Round 2 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 3 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 5 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Info :
Check your work: at this stage the runner will begin to look like an oval band. Use stitch markers on the two midpoints (sides) to help locate where the curved ends begin. Keep tension even to maintain a flat surface.
Round 6 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 7 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 8 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 9 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Info :
We will add length by working several even rounds in the same stitch count; this creates the rectangular portion of the oval. For the runner pictured, 20–22 even rounds give the correct length between the curved ends depending on yarn and tension.
Rounds 10-24 :
1 sc in each st around (78) — 15 rounds total (Rounds 10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24)
Info :
Mark the round that will form the central motif row (for positioning motifs later). For a balanced look, choose Round 14 as the center of the runner length. Count rounds from one curved end to the other so motifs can be centered symmetrically: this runner places a Santa motif at roughly rounds 6–10 from each end and the central tree near round 14.
Round 25 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 26 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 27 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Round 28 :
1 sc in each st around (78)
Info :
At this point you have completed the main body. You may stop adding length here if you prefer a shorter table runner. For the sample runner, continue with the two curved end shaping rounds below before edging.
Round 29 :
(sc 11, inc) x6 (84)
Round 30 :
1 sc in each st around (84)
Round 31 :
(sc 12, inc) x6 (90)
Round 32 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Round 33 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Info :
These slight increases are placed roughly across the two rounded ends to give a smooth oval curve. Place your increases evenly and keep track of the midpoint markers to ensure symmetry.
Round 34 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Round 35 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Round 36 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Round 37 :
1 sc in each st around (90)
Info :
Finish the base rounds even so the scalloped border can be worked easily. If your runner measures longer or shorter than desired, add or remove even rounds between Round 24 and Round 29 to adjust length while keeping the rounded end increases in proportion.
— Santa Applique (Make 3 identical) :
Notes :
Each Santa motif is worked in the round and made of a face disk, a puff/beard layered ring, hat, pom-pom and small nose circle. The beard is created using puff/pop stitches worked around the face base to achieve that fluffy look.
Round 1 :
Make face base with skin-tone yarn: mr, 6 sc in mr (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
1 sc in each st around (24)
Info :
Place safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4, spaced 6–8 sts apart per photo — typically put the outer edge of the eye about 4 stitches in from the edge of the face. If you prefer embroidered eyes, mark with pins before continuing.
Round 6 :
1 sc in each st around (24)
Round 7 :
Start the beard foundation: change to white yarn. (1 sc in next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 ch, sc in next 4 sts across) — this creates points for attaching puff stitches. For purposes of counting we still maintain 24 base stitches (24)
Round 8 :
Puff clusters row (beard round 1): *Skip next st, make pop/puff in next st, sl st into skipped st* – repeat around to create 12 puff spots. (12 puffs counted as cluster features; use markers to track positions)
Info :
Work pompom/beard puffs into the round by making 12 evenly spaced puff stitches around the lower half of the face base. Do not over-tighten the puffs; leave them slightly raised for fluffiness. This round does not affect the face stitch count in a mathematical sense — the face base remains as the sewn-on disk.
Round 9 :
Work a second row of puffs offset between previous puffs to build beard volume. *Make a pop in the stitch between puffs from previous round, sl st between puffs to anchor.* Repeat around (12 puffs)
Round 10 :
Snub nose: With red yarn, mr, 6 sc in mr (6). Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Sew centered on face between the eyes just above the beard puffs.
Round 11 :
Hat base (red): mr, 6 sc in mr (6)
Round 13 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 14 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 15 :
Work 2 rounds even in red (24)
Info :
Fold the hat slightly and sew the lower edge to the top of the face disk so the hat rim sits above the eyes. Add a white bobble/pom using white yarn: 6 sc in mr (6), fasten off and sew in place. Alternatively make a small puff for a fluffy pom.
Round 16 :
Optional blush: Add two small pink circles of yarn or embroider light blush near each eye using pink yarn and a small satin stitch.
Round 17 :
Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing the motif to the base. Block lightly if desired to flatten face and arrange beard puffs.
Info :
Make three Santa motifs total. Place one near each end and one near the center (or arrange as shown in photos). Space them approximately 28–30 rounds apart along the runner for balanced placement depending on total number of even base rounds you made.
— Layered Christmas Tree Applique (Make 2) :
Notes :
Trees are made by crocheting small layered rows that stack to form a triangular silhouette. Each layer is a short row of shells or clusters. Add a small trunk and star topper.
Round 1 :
With dark green yarn: ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 4 ch (5 sc). Turn to work on opposite side of foundation chain: sc in each ch across (5) — total foundation band for the tree base (10 stitches around the foundation when sewn).
Round 2 :
Attach yarn at one end of foundation and work a short shell: ch 1, (dc, ch1, dc) in same st; skip 1, sc in next; skip 1, shell in next — make 3 shells total to create first tier of 3 scallops. This tier sits at the bottom of the tree.
Round 3 :
Make smaller tier above: attach yarn centered above first tier and work (dc, ch1, dc) as single shells spaced evenly. Make 3 shells, each offset to sit between lower shells.
Round 4 :
Make top tier: 1 central small puff or cluster (pop) to create tree tip. Fasten off and sew small black trunk beneath bottom tier: with black yarn, mr, 4 sc in mr (4), fasten off and tack under tree base.
Round 5 :
Star topper: with yellow yarn make a small 5-pointed star: ch 6, sl st to form ring; *(ch 4, sl st to ring to make point) x 5*; fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Secure star to top of tree and tack down any overlapping tiers.
Info :
Add tiny beads or french knots with matching sewing thread as ornaments on the tree (red, gold, and dark green beads used in the photo). Secure beads through the tree and tie off on the back with glue if desired.
— Candy Cane Spiral (Make 2) :
Notes :
Each candy cane is a small crocheted tube with alternating stripes worked in red and cream. The top is curled to form the hook.
Round 1 :
Using red yarn, ch 8, join with sl st to form ring (or mr, 6 sc) and work 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 2 :
Work in continuous rounds: 6 sc (6)
Round 3 :
Change to cream: 6 sc (6)
Round 4 :
Change to red: 6 sc (6)
Round 5 :
Change to cream: 6 sc (6)
Round 6 :
Change to red: 6 sc (6)
Round 7 :
Work 2 extra rows in cream then shape hook: bend top 4 rows into a curl and sew closed with needle and matching yarn to secure the hook shape. Fasten off and leave tail for sewing to base.
Info :
The candy cane in the photo has alternating thick and thin stripes; you can create thicker stripes by working two rounds per color before switching. Use a small darning needle to tuck in the tail and shape the hook neatly before sewing to the base.
— Snowflake Motifs (Make 6) :
Round 1 :
With white yarn: ch 6, sl st to form ring
Round 2 :
*Ch 4, sl st into ring* repeat 6 times to create 6 loops (these become points)
Round 3 :
On each loop: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into loop, sl st to base to finish point. Repeat around for six points. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Info :
These little snowflakes are worked flat and popped onto the runner surface as flat motifs. Block them slightly to open points and ensure they lay flat after sewing. Place them evenly between motifs for a balanced look.
— Scalloped Red Border :
Info :
Work border after all motifs are sewn on the base (border stitches will anchor through both final base round and an adjacent round to create a finished edge). Use the vivid red yarn for the scalloped shell edge and extra fullness.
Round 1 (Border Join) :
Using red, join with a sl st to any stitch on outermost round of base. Ch 1, sc in same st then 1 sc in each st around to create a neat red single crochet edging. Maintain same stitch count as last base round. (90 if base last round was 90)
Round 2 :
*Skip next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc* repeat around. Adjust final shells so scallops align at the tip ends; you may need to work sc 2 or sc 3 to balance shell placement and avoid crowding at ends. Count: Repeat shells to fit 15 shells around each long side and 3 shells at each curved end for symmetry — total shell repeats approx 36 depending on circumference.
Round 3 :
Work a finishing round of sc between shells where needed: *sc in top of shell, ch1, sc in next sc* to anchor shells. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Info :
If scallops look too open, work a second shell round or add a picot trim: sc, ch3, sl st into same st to form small decorative picots between shells for added texture.
— Tassels (Make 2) :
Notes :
Make two chunky tassels in red and attach at both ends through the central stitch of the final scallop for the classic look shown. Use multiple strands to create a dense tassel.
Step 1 :
Wind red yarn around a 10 cm cardboard 25–30 times depending on desired fullness. Slide off and tie a length of yarn tightly around top 1 cm to form the head. Fold tassel in half and wrap a separate small strand around 1 cm down to create the neck. Sew the head base to the end of the runner through the center scallop with several passes and knot securely. Trim ends evenly.
Info :
For the decorative round ball at the base of the tassel shown in the photo, wind a small pom-pom or make a small tight amigurumi ball: mr, 6 sc, 6 inc (12), dec rounds to close, stuff lightly, finish and sew over the top of tassel head for a polished look.
— Assembly & Motif Placement :
Info :
Position all motifs on the flat runner before sewing. Use pins to test placement — the photo shows motifs aligned down the center in this order from top to bottom: Tree, candy cane + snowflake cluster, Santa face, Tree, candy cane + snowflake cluster, Santa face. Keep about 10–12 rows of background between motif centers for balanced spacing on a runner of the dimensions above. Exact placement may vary with number of base rounds you worked.
Step 1 :
Pin each motif to the background, ensuring they are centered side-to-side. Use a ruler to measure equal spacing from runner ends and between motifs. When satisfied, baste with long contrasting thread to keep motifs in place while sewing permanently.
Step 2 :
Sew motifs using matching yarn and a whip stitch or mattress stitch. For 3D elements like the Santa beard and tree layers, sew through the base fabric and the motif base only to keep the puff texture free-standing. Avoid catching the puffs in your sewing passes if you want them fluffy.
Info :
For beads on the tree: use a thin needle and sew each bead through the motif into the base runner, knotting on the back. Add a tiny drop of fabric glue at each bead knot for extra security if gifting to children.
— Finishing Touches :
Step 1 :
Weave in all ends with a yarn needle, then steam-block or lightly wet-block the finished runner on a flat surface to even out stitches and open scallops slightly. Do NOT over-stretch — just gently shape and let dry flat.
Step 2 :
Attach tassels as described and trim to desired length. Give the tassels a light brush to separate strands and create fullness; trim uneven strands if necessary.
Info :
If runner will be used on a table with hot dishes, consider using a heatproof mat or trivet under hot cookware. Cotton yarn is heat-resistant but can scorch under extreme temperatures.
Final Check :
Inspect both sides of the runner for loose ends, beads, or knots. Make any reinforcing stitches where needed and enjoy your festive centerpiece!
This festive table runner brings classic holiday cheer to your table with bright Reds, creamy neutrals, and dimensional snowy accents! The textured Santa beards, layered trees and tiny candy canes create a whimsical seasonal scene perfect for cozy winter mornings and holiday teas. I hope you enjoy assembling each motif and watching the runner come alive as you sew — it really is a joy to make and to display. Hang on to this pattern for years of seasonal decorating — and happy stitching! 🎄🧶
