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Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern

Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎁

Tiny Treasure

Small, sweet, and gift-worthy creations that fit perfectly in the palm of your hand with detailed charm.

About This Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a complete crochet fishing set including six colorful fish, six stacking bowls, a storage basket, a fishing rod with reel and guides, and a hook. It uses amigurumi techniques worked in continuous rounds with clear shaping for each small piece. You will add magnets and safety eyes for interactive play and assemble the rod and reel for a working effect.

Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for gifting or play, the set mixes bright colors and tactile elements to engage kids. Detailed step-by-step rounds and photos guide your construction and finishing.

Why You'll Love This Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playfulness with practical construction; every piece is useful and charming. I enjoy how the magnets add an interactive element that makes the set feel magical for kids. I also love the modular design — you can make each fish and bowl in any color combination for a personalized rainbow effect. Working the rod and reel is satisfying because it turns simple crochet into a clever toy that moves. This pattern lets me share small, handmade surprises that are bright, durable, and full of personality.

Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how this pattern is perfect for experimenting with color — I often make each fish in a different yarn texture to create contrast and tactile interest.

I sometimes swap the cotton yarn for a soft acrylic to make a softer, more squishy set that launders more easily.

To make a mini keychain version I use a thinner yarn and smaller hook, and reduce a couple of rounds to scale down the fish.

I add embroidered details or felt fins for a different look — subtle eyes or stripes change the character of each fish.

Try replacing the magnets with small sewn-in snaps if you want a non-magnetic version for younger children.

I often change the storage basket size by adding or removing increase rounds, which makes it easy to create a matching box for other toys.

For an outdoor-friendly set, use a treated or plastic-coated cord instead of yarn for the rod string so it resists moisture and wear.

If you want a more realistic reel, I sometimes wrap thin wire around the reel core before sewing the side pieces to give a metal look and extra rigidity.

I like to make coordinating outfits or small accessories for the fish — tiny crochet bows or little felt hats are a cute personalization touch.

When gifting, I package one or two fish with a single bowl as a stocking stuffer set, or make the full rainbow for birthday or preschool gifts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Placing safety eyes incorrectly will make the fish look unbalanced; place the eyes between rows 5 and 6 in the 3rd and 6th increases as instructed. ✗ Overstuffing the fish or bowls can distort their shape and make magnets ineffective; stuff gradually and shape by pressing the fibers around the eyes before closing. ✗ Skipping stitch counts during increases or decreases causes uneven shaping; count your stitches after each round and mark the start with a stitch marker. ✗ Leaving yarn tails too short makes sewing parts together difficult; leave long tails for sewing seams and hide ends after assembly. ✗ Crocheting with loose tension when decreasing can create holes in the fabric; try to work as tight as possible during decreases to avoid gaps.

Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern

Create a playful crochet fishing set with colorful fish, stacking bowls, a storage basket, and a working rod with reel. This pattern guides you step-by-step through each piece so you can make a complete toy set for kids or as a cheerful gift. The pattern uses simple amigurumi techniques with clear shaping and assembly instructions to help you finish a polished set.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Fishing Set Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Performance 100% Cotton yarn used in double thread for fish and bowls - 6 colors, 50 grams of each color (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple)
  • 02
    Main color for storage basket and fishing rod - green - approximately 170 grams
  • 03
    White yarn for storage basket and fishing rod details - approximately 70 grams
  • 04
    Small amounts of yarn for details and leftover tails (5 cm tails when changing colors)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.5mm (UK 12 = C2 US)
  • 02
    Optional crochet hook size 5mm (UK 6 = H8 US) for looser tension (you could use up to 5mm/H8)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 5mm (6 pieces total for 6 fish)
  • 04
    Small round magnets approximately 2 cm / 0.8 inches in diameter (I used 15 pcs because mine were weak; 7 strong magnets may be enough)
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 10
    Needle for inserting string and hiding tails

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Fish :

Info :

Make 6 identical fish — one for each color of the rainbow.

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

sc X 18 => 18

R5 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R6 - R7 - R8 - R9 - R10 - R11 :

sc X 24 => 24

Info :

Now you can add the safety eyes and the magnet: Place the eyes between rows 5 and 6, in the 3rd and the 6th increases; Establish a front side for the magnet and always place the magnet with that side on the exterior; The magnet goes inside the fish all the way to the mouth of the fish. To test that the magnet is in the correct position always keep a magnet close to you and check if it connects to all your fish on the same side; if your magnets are not strong enough placing two magnets inside the fish might help; Stuff your fish (don't overdo it - it will make it heavy and the magnets from the fishing rod won't help to lift it up); form the fish with your hands by pressing the thumb and the index against the eyes of the fish; continue crocheting the fish.

Now we will start decreasing :

Try to work as tight as possible to avoid having wholes in your fish.

R12 :

(2 sc + 1 dec) X 6 => 18

R13 :

(1 sc + 1 dec) X 6 => 12

Info :

Add fiberfill to the fish until you are satisfied with the stuffing; Keep forming the fish by pressing the fingers on its eyes.

R14 :

dec X 6 => 6

R15 :

sc X 6 => 6

R16 :

inc X 6 => 12

R17 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R18 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R19 :

fold the two parts of the tail together and crochet 12sc (insert the hook in every 2 stitches which are in front of each other; Cut the yarn and hide it with the hook or with a needle;)

— Bowls :

Info :

I made six bowls, one for each fish. The bowls are split in two sizes - so that we can group the fish two by two: a. Bigger bowls: we need to make 3 bigger bowls with the colors: red, yellow, blue. b. Smaller bowls: we need to make 3 smaller bowls with the colors: orange, green, purple.

— Smaller Bowl (A) :

Make 3 smaller bowls.

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R5 :

(3 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 30

R6 :

(4 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 36

R7 :

(5 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 42

R8 :

BLO sc X 42 => 42

R9 - R10 - R11 - R12 - R13 - R14 - R15 :

sc X 42 => 42

R16 :

SL X 42

Close Info :

Close by doing a slip stitch in the first slip stitch of row 16. Hide the thread and the bowl is finished.

— Bigger Bowl (B) :

Make 3 bigger bowls.

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R5 :

(3 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 30

R6 :

(4 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 36

R7 :

(5 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 42

R8 :

(6 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 48

R9 :

BLO sc X 48 => 48

R10 - R11 - R12 - R13 - R14 - R15 - R16 :

sc X 48 => 48

R17 :

SL X 48

Close Info :

Close by doing a slip stitch in the first slip stitch of row 17. Hide the thread and the bowl is finished.

— Storage Basket :

Info :

I used the same yarn color for this basket and the fishing rod to make sure they are a set; go ahead and use which color you like;

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R5 :

(3 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 30

R6 :

(4 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 36

R7 :

(5 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 42

R8 :

(6 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 48

R9 :

(7 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 54

R10 :

(8 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 60

R11 :

(9 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 66

R12 :

(10 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 72

R13 :

(11 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 78

R14 :

(12 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 84

R15 :

(13 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 90

R16 :

(14 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 96

R17 :

(15 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 102

R18 :

(16 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 108

R19 :

(17 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 114

R20 :

(18 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 120

R21 :

BLO sc X 120 => 120

R22 - R23 - R24 - R25 - R26 - R27 - R28 - R29 - R30 - R31 :

sc X 120 => 120

Change yarn to white :

To change the color, leave the last single crochet unfinished just like in picture 1 bellow, then take the white yarn and pull it through to finish the sc like in picture 2. Cut the green yarn but leave a 5 cm tail. In the next row work over both the green and the white leftover yarn.

R32 :

sc X 120 => 120

Now you will need to switch to treble crochet (double treble for UK) :

Switching instructions for decorative rows.

R33 :

chain 3 + tr X 120 + sc in chain 3 in the beginning of the row: 120

R34 - R35 - R36 - R37 :

chain 3, tr X 120, sc in chain 3 from the beginning of the row => 120

Change yarn to green :

Change back to green for finishing rounds.

R38 :

chain 3, tr X 120, sc in chain 3 from the beginning of the row => 120

R39 :

SL X 120

Info :

Close by doing a slip stitch in the first slip stitch of row 39. Hide the thread. To close the basket, we need to make it a string. To do that just chain 200 with the main color (in my case green), then cut the yarn even at ends. Insert the string in row 35 - go over 2 trebles, then under 2 trebles until you finish the row. To make this part easier you can use a needle.

— Rod :

Info :

You need to make the rod around the stick. The stick used is 25 mm / 1 inch diameter, so the author made 6 sc to work the way up. For the length the author needed 90 rows to get to the top (27 cm / 10.6 inch), making 30 rows in green (one third) and 60 in white (two thirds).

A. The Rod - Start with green :

As you work your way up test the stick every 10 rows. A common mistake when working with 6sc rows is to accidentally crochet some of the yarn of the opposite row, making it impossible for the stick to be inserted in the sleeve.

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 - R3 - R4... - R30 :

sc X 6 = 6

Switch to white :

Continue the rod covering until you reach desired length switch colors as noted.

R31 :

BLO X 6 = 6

R32 - R33 - R34... - R90 :

sc X 6 = 6

Info :

Make a slip stitch in the first stitch of row 90, cut the yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Take a needle and go through each front loop of the 6 sc from down to up (insert the needle with the wrong side to make sure you take only the front loop). Pull firmly and then hide the yarn inside.

B. The Guides :

Make 2 guides; chain 12 so that the guides fit over the rod; you might need to chain more if your rod is larger.

R1 :

chain X 12; slip stitch in the first stitch; stop and test that you can place it over your rod. Continue in circle, working over the yarn left from the MR

R2 :

sc X 12; make a slip stitch in the first sc and then make one more in the middle going through sc 1 and 12; from there chain X 8 and slip stitch the last chain to the first one. Cut the yarn long enough for you to sew the guide over the rod (sew the guides to the rod at rows 65 and 85)

C. The Reel :

The reel has sides and a middle part. You will make 4 side circles (sew 2 by 2) and one middle tubular part.

i. The sides :

Make 4 (you will need to sew them 2 by 2)

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6 - work over the leftover yarn

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R5 :

(3 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 30

Close Info :

Close by doing a slip stitch in the first sc of row 5. Leave at least 2 long threads for sewing. Place the sides 2 by 2. Make sure you have the front parts on the exterior and the end of the rows joined together. Sew each pair together.

ii. The middle part :

Make the middle tubular part to join the sides.

R1 :

chain X 18 => 18; continue working in circle

R2 - R3 - R4 :

sc X 18 => 18

Info :

Now we need to attach the side parts. Start sewing the first side. It should fit perfectly in between rows 3 and 4 of the side part (just sew the interior part of the side so the sewing is not visible on the exterior part). Cut the yarn. Stuff the middle part and proceed in the same way with the second side. The reel should be ready. You can now sew the reel to the rod just where you change the colors (row 30).

D. The String :

Chain X 60 (this is twice my rod length). Sew the string to the reel, on the middle part down, just where the reel meets the rod so it's less visible. Pass the string over the reel once from down up and sew again at the joining point to secure. Insert the string in each of the guides.

E. The Hook :

Make the hook piece that holds the magnet and matches to the string of the rod.

R1 :

MR + 6sc => 6

Info :

Insert the string in the middle of the magic ring and make a node connecting the two. In this way we don't need to worry about sewing them together later.

R2 :

inc X 6 => 12 - pull the leftover yarn firmly (without breaking it) to close the MR

R3 :

(1 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 18

R4 :

sc X 18 => 18

R5 :

(2 sc + 1 inc) X 6 => 24

R6 :

sc X 14 => 24

R7 :

(2 sc + 1 dec) X 6 => 18

R8 :

sc X 18 => 18

Start stuffing :

Start stuffing the hook piece here.

R9 :

(2 sc + 1 dec) X 6 => 12; sl stitch in the first sc leaving a long tail to sew the magnets

Info :

Stuff firmly, but leave enough place for the magnet. The author places 3 magnets inside because their magnets were not strong; if your magnets are stronger one may be enough. Do not crochet over the magnets; when you place the magnet(s) test with a fish to ensure correct polarity; sew over the magnet a couple of times, cut the yarn and hide it.

— Final Assembly & Notes :

Info :

Sew guides to the rod at rows 65 and 85; sew the reel to the rod at row 30; insert string through guides and hook; position fish magnets and safety eyes; hide all tails and test the magnet connection with the fish before finishing. Supervise children while playing with magnets and small parts.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place safety eyes between rows 5 and 6 of each fish (in the 3rd and the 6th increases) and secure them tightly before stuffing and closing.
  • Insert magnets into each fish with the front side facing exterior and test magnet polarity by bringing a magnet close; adjust orientation so all fish connect on the same side.
  • Sew the reel to the rod at the color change point (row 30) and secure with several passes so the reel is firmly attached.
  • Sew the rod guides over the rod at rows 65 and 85 so the string stays in place and slides through each guide.
  • Fold and sew the two parts of each fish tail together, crocheting 12 sc through both layers as instructed and hide the yarn tail with a needle.
  • Sew the sides of the reel two by two and attach the middle tubular part between them; stuff the middle part and close securely.

Important Notes

  • 💡This pattern is written in US terminology and worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated; UK equivalents are noted where relevant.
  • 💡Use qualitative safety eyes and ensure magnets are well inserted and secured; supervise children when playing with magnet-equipped toys.
  • 💡When changing colors leave a 5 cm tail from the old color and work over both tails on the next row to secure the change.
  • 💡Test the rod sleeve regularly on the stick as you crochet (every 10 rows) to ensure the stick will slide in without obstruction.

This colorful Fishing Set is a playful project that makes a thoughtful handmade gift for kids or as decor. The set includes six rainbow fish, stacking bowls, a roomy storage basket, and a functional rod with a reel for hours of fun. Make one set or customize each piece with your favorite colors and textures to create a unique toy. 🧶🎣

You ask,

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FAQs

What size will the finished pieces be?

Individual fish are small (palm-sized) and bowls are sized to stack; the rod measures about 27 cm (10.6 inches) on the stick used in the sample.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will affect final size; heavier yarn with a larger hook makes chunkier pieces while thinner yarn creates minis — adjust hook and stitch counts accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with crochet in the round, increases, decreases, and working over loops; beginners may follow slowly with stitch-count checking.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish the set in 5-7 hours, depending on experience and how many pieces you make at once.

How many magnets do I need and what size?

Use small round magnets about 2 cm (0.8 inches) in diameter; the author used 15 small magnets because they were not strong, but 7 strong magnets should be sufficient.