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Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern

Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern
4.4β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern

This pattern creates a layered floral table runner composed of alternating large daisy motifs in burgundy and blush pink with cream centers, connected by olive green vines and small matching blossom accents. Each large daisy is constructed from a solid center disk and sculpted petals that are worked to give a slight 3D raised look and defined edges. Leaves and tiny 6-petal flowers form decorative connectors between the large motifs for a flowing, botanical aesthetic perfect for tabletops and sideboards.

Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses worsted-weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn to ensure crisp stitch definition and a flat, table-friendly finish. Motifs are crocheted separately and then joined with simple chain vines and whip-stitched seams for a neat finish.

Why You'll Love This Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it balances structure with softness β€” the raised petals feel sculptural while the vines keep the whole piece light and organic. I particularly enjoy the contrast of the deep burgundy and delicate pink against the cream centers and olive leaves; it gives the runner a vintage, cottage-style appeal. The modular motif approach means I can mix and match colors easily, and sewing the pieces together is calm, meditative work I look forward to.

Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how easy it is to customize this runner: I often swap the burgundy for deep teal or navy for a different seasonal vibe. I also mix cotton and cotton-blend yarns to change drape and sheen.

I like to add more leaves and fewer small flowers for an Autumn look, or switch to pastel shades for spring. Using a slightly larger hook gives a more relaxed, lacy vine while a smaller hook makes the petals crisp and sculpted.

I often make a single large daisy as a placemat version β€” same construction, fewer motifs. You can also create a circular centerpiece by joining motifs in a rosette instead of a linear runner; I find that simple color swaps create entirely new moods.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven petal placement; always mark your first stitch of each round. βœ— Not blocking flat motifs before joining can lead to ripples and uneven joins; lightly block center disks and petals for best results. βœ— Working too loosely will let stuffing or table surface show through stitches; use a slightly smaller hook than recommended for crisp texture. βœ— Joining motifs without pinning first will produce twisted vines or uneven spacing; pin each connection before sewing to check placement. βœ— Changing color ends poorly if not woven in; carry yarn neatly on the wrong side or weave tails in as you go to avoid bulk. βœ— Using slippery yarn or very slick cotton without securing slip knots can result in petals stretching while joining; fasten off securely and weave ends at least 6cm in. βœ— Overstuffing a petal edge (if stuffing is used for raised effect) creates lumpy petals; use thin batting and distribute evenly. βœ— Rushing increases or decreases in petal shaping will distort the petal profile; count stitches and use stitch markers for each petal anchor stitch.

Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern

Create a charming floral table runner made from large daisy motifs, leafy vines and tiny blossom accents. This pattern uses cotton/ply yarn in deep burgundy, soft pink, cream centers and olive green leaves to form a long runner full of texture and dimension. The motifs are made separately and joined by crocheted vines for a delicate, hand-stitched finish. Perfect to decorate a farmhouse table, dresser or shelf, this runner combines simple crochet stitches with structured petal shaping for a striking result.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Floral Daisy Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (#4) approximately 120g in deep burgundy (main deep flower color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (#4) approximately 120g in soft blush pink (alternate large flower color)
  • 03
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (#4) approximately 40-60g in cream/ivory (flower centers and small blossom centers)
  • 04
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (#4) approximately 100g in olive/leaf green (leaves and connecting vines)
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-20g) of matching colors for tiny accents and seams (extra pink, cream or burgundy as needed)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (recommended for tight stitches in cotton worsted)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for slightly tighter petals or edging (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing motifs together and weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round starts and petal anchor points
  • 06
    Pins or T-pins for blocking and positioning motifs
  • 07
    Blocking mat and spray bottle or steam iron on low setting for cotton blocking
  • 08
    Optional: small amounts of soft batting or thin felt pads if you wish to slightly pad centers (not necessary)
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing any particularly slippery ends before weaving

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β€” Overview :

Info :

This pattern creates a modular floral table runner made up of four large daisy motifs, multiple small 6-petal flowers, and many layered leaves joined by crocheted vines. Work each motif flat, block lightly, then join. The instructions are given per motif; where groups are required you will find repetition notes. Use a 3.5mm hook for a firm fabric; adjust if you want a looser or denser fabric.

Gauge :

Large flower finished center disk measures approximately 6.5cm across; full assembled large daisy measures approximately 20cm diameter when petals are attached, using recommended yarn and hook. Gauge will vary by yarn and tension.

β€” Materials & Prep :

Info :

Prepare yarn bobbins for each color (burgundy, blush pink, cream, olive green). Keep stitch marker for round starts. Lightly press center disks after blocking to flatten before attaching petals. Number of motifs: 4 large daisy motifs (alternate colors), 12 small blossom motifs, 20 leaves (approx β€” adjust as you like), vines to join motifs in a linear runner configuration. Make extras of leaves and small flowers for balance.

β€” Large Daisy - Center Disk :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

Fasten off cream/center color if switching to petal color now. Block center disk flat to create a stable base for petal attachment. Keep long tail for sewing if you prefer to join petals by whip stitch rather than crocheting around later.

β€” Large Daisy - Petal Motif (Make 8 petals per large daisy) :

Info :

Each petal is worked as a separate flat motif and then sewn onto the center disk around its circumference. Work petals in the large flower color (burgundy or blush pink). You will make 8 petals and sew them evenly around the center; mark eight anchor points on the center disk at approximately every 6 stitches (48/8=6) to space petals evenly.

Petal - Round 1 :

Make a magic ring, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Petal - Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (12)

Petal - Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Petal - Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Petal - Round 5 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Petal - Round 6 :

Work in BLO: 1 sc in each st BLO (24)

Info :

Rounds 1-6 build a small circular base. This will be folded and extended into a shaped petal by working a petal height section next. Keep markers to ensure petals match in height and curve.

Petal - Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next 4 sts (this is the center bulge of the petal), hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 4 sts β€” (24 sts total per round across the petal face). Sl st to join. (24)

Petal - Round 8 :

Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around the petal curve, working 3 sc in each point where two rows meet to round the tip (24 with 3-st increases distributed evenly to maintain shape = 28). Note: when you work extra 3-sc clusters at the tip you will create small increases; overall petal will widen slightly. (28)

Petal - Round 9 :

Working in FLO across this round, 1 sc in each st around (28)

Petal - Round 10 :

Ch 2, *sk 1 st, sc in next st; ch 2* repeat across the petal curve to make small picot-like scallops (approx 14 sc and 14 ch2 loops). Sl st to join. (14 sc)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a 20-25cm tail for sewing. Make 8 identical petals for each large daisy. If you prefer to crochet petals directly onto center disk, you may slip stitch into marked center stitches instead; the separate motif approach gives clean, dimensional petals.

Petal Assembly - Round 11 :

Pin each petal to the center disk at the marked anchor points (every 6th stitch around the center). Use the long tail to whip stitch through the center disk and the inner ring of each petal, sewing with even tension so the petals are snug against the center. Repeat for all 8 petals. (No stitch count)

Info :

When sewing petals, align the petal base so that the petal curve flows outward. Use small, neat stitches and weave the tail back through the base once secured to avoid loose ends showing on the right side.

β€” Large Daisy - Petal Ridge & Edge Definition (worked after attaching petals) :

Round 12 :

With petal color, join yarn at base between petal 1 and petal 2 anchor. Ch 1, sc evenly around the inside base where petal meets center across each petal base (work ~3 sc into each petal base seam to anchor) β€” overall you will work approximately 8 x 3 = 24 sc around center base. (24)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Round 14 :

Working in BLO across the row that covers petal bases, 1 sc in each st BLO (24)

Info :

This ridge anchors petals and creates a shadowed channel that visually separates center and petals. If you prefer a smoother join, work only Round 12 and leave it.

Round 15 :

Switch to a decorative outer edge: join yarn at outermost seam of a petal, ch 1, *sc, ch 2, sk 1* across the petal edge to create scallops; when you reach the valley between petals, work 3 sc to anchor. Repeat across all petals and slip stitch to join. (This will create approx 8 scallops of 5-7 stitches each)

Info :

Fasten off and weave ends. Block the entire large daisy lightly to set shape: pin petals into a gentle curved position and spray lightly with water, allow to dry flat.

β€” Small 6-Petal Flower (Make 12) :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Switch to blossom color for petals. Ch 3, *in next st work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) into same st; sl st into next stitch to anchor* repeat around to make 6 petals (each petal uses one anchor stitch). After petals complete, sl st to join. Approx final petal-counting: 6 petal clusters, anchor spaced evenly. (No single total st count because petals are clusters)

Round 5 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch of the petal rounds across exposed clusters to secure edges and slightly flatten petals. Fasten off leaving tails for sewing. (Estimate 18-24 sc depending on cluster distribution)

Info :

Make 12 small flowers in total; these will be used to decorate the spaces between large daisies and to create leafy junctions. Block lightly if desired.

β€” Leaf Motif (Make approx 20 leaves) :

Info :

Leaves are worked flat from a chain base to create an elongated leaf. Each leaf is worked in olive green and uses alternating increases at tips to form the shape. Make as many leaves as needed to balance runner; typical runner in photo uses around 18-22 leaves for spacing.

Round 1 :

Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across to last ch (13 sc). Turn. (13)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in first 3, hdc in next 3, dc in next 3, hdc in next 2, sc in last 2. Turn. (13)

Round 3 :

Work down the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in first 2, hdc in next 2, dc in next 3, hdc in next 3, sc in last 3. Sl st into the first sc to join and form a leaf outline. (13)

Round 4 :

Working in FLO across Round 3, 1 sc in each st around the leaf perimeter to give a crisp edge; work 3 sc into the tip to create a rounded tip (resulting in approx 16 sc around perimeter). (16)

Round 5 :

Surface ribbing: using the back post of the centre dc sts, work 1 hdc in each of the 3 back post dc sts to create a central ridge. Fasten off leaving tails for sewing. (3 hdc ridge)

Info :

Make a matched set of leaves for each side of the runner as pictured. Vary direction (pointing left or right) for a natural arrangement. Block lightly if needed to open the leaf ridges.

β€” Connecting Vine Chains & Joining Motifs :

Info :

Vines are simple chains with small picot anchor points used to attach leaves and small flowers. Use olive green for vines and leaves. The runner connects large daisies in alternating colors with vines and small flowers between them. Plan spacing: on the example runner, each large daisy is approximately 20cm center-to-center. Adjust number of vine chains accordingly.

Vine - Round 1 :

With olive green, join yarn at edge of large daisy where you want vine to start. Ch 20 (for a short connecting vine between a petal and a leaf). Sl st back into the same anchoring slip stitch to create a loop for stability. (Chains are length as needed; ch20 is an example)

Vine - Round 2 :

Along the chain, create small leaf or flower anchor points: *ch 3, sl st into chain 6 from last anchor to make a loop; ch 1, sc into chain to secure* repeat as desired. Use these chain loops to sew on small flowers or to secure leaf bases by whip stitching through the loop and leaf base. (No total stitch count)

Info :

When connecting two large daisies, measure the distance between their outer petal tips and chain accordingly β€” you can always add more leaves or small flowers along the vine to lengthen it. Keep vines slightly loose so motifs lay flat but with slight drape.

β€” Joining Strategy (Comprehensive) :

Info :

Work entirely with motifs blocked and flattened. Lay motifs on a flat surface in desired order. Start in the center of the runner and work outward or start from one end β€” whichever you prefer. Use long tails from motifs to invisibly whip stitch. To connect two large daisies: align petal valleys, attach vine chain to valley slip-stitches on each daisy using sl st or whip stitch; anchor leaves along vines at intervals. Sew small flowers to chain loops.

Joining Step 1 :

Pin two large daisies with their petals overlapping or with the desired valley spacing. Mark three anchor points across the valley area (left, center, right). Using a long tail from one motif, sew these points with a ladder or whip stitch through both motifs' inner rounds, then weave tail back through 5cm and trim. Repeat for all joins to create a stable, flat seam.

Joining Step 2 :

Attach vines by slip stitching into the seam area on the back of a daisy and chain out to the next join point. Secure vine end by weaving through stitches of the next motif and tying a small secure knot and weaving tail. Invisible sewing is preferred for a clean front appearance.

Info :

Pin leaves in place along the vine before sewing: alternate leaf directions for a natural look. Sew each leaf base to the vine loop using the leaf's tail or with a separate strand. Add small flowers at junctions where vines meet petals to replicate the decorative clusters in the photo.

β€” Decorative Edging and Finishing Touches :

Round 1 :

Once all motifs are joined, work a decorative edging along the entire runner if desired. With olive green, join yarn at one edge, ch 1, sc evenly along the outer edge of petals and leaves, working 3 sc into valleys to keep edging flat. Work all the way around the runner for a unified border. (Stitch count varies with runner length)

Round 2 :

Optional scallop: *ch 3, skip 2 sc, sl st into next sc* around for a delicate scallop. Fasten off and weave all ends neatly to the wrong side. Block lightly again to set the final shape. (Scallop counts vary)

Info :

Weave in ends by threading the yarn needle through several stitches of the same color on the wrong side; avoid surface pulls. Trim close. Use a small dab of fabric glue at knots if the yarn is particularly slippery and you want extra security.

β€” Alternate Assembly Options & Tips :

Info :

If you want a reversible runner, use more careful finishing and hide joins on both sides, or crochet a backing strip to sew across seam lines. To make the runner shorter or longer, add or remove large daisy motifs and adjust vine chains between them. Keep symmetry in mind when arranging motifs for a balanced look.

Final Care :

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent and lay flat to dry. Block back into shape while damp. Avoid high heat to prevent shrinkage or distortion of cotton fibers.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach petals to center disk by marking eight evenly spaced anchor points (every 6th stitch on a 48-st center). Pin one petal at each anchor and whip stitch through the inner round of the petal and into the center disk's corresponding stitches to secure.
  • Create vine chains between large daisies using olive green yarn: slip stitch into the seam area of the first daisy, chain the required length between daisies, and secure to the next daisy by sewing the chain to the underside of the petal valley with small whip stitches.
  • Pin leaves along the vine at visual intervals that match the photograph (roughly 2 leaves per vine segment). Sew each leaf base through the chain loop or directly to the vine with the leaf's tail or a separate thread.
  • Sew small 6-petal flowers into groups of two or three at junctions where vines meet petals for decoration; secure with small stitches through the flower center and the vine loops.
  • Once all motifs are connected, work a continuous edging along the outermost perimeter: sc uniformly along edges, placing 3 sc in valleys to maintain flatness, then fasten off and weave in ends.
  • Block the finished runner flat by pinning to shape on a blocking mat and misting lightly with water; allow to dry fully before removing pins to maintain the runner's shape and crisp petal definition.
  • Trim and secure all remaining tails by weaving at least 5cm into the wrong side of the work; if needed, secure final knots with a small dab of fabric glue for longevity.
  • Optionally, add felt corner pads under the runner's underside in three to four places to protect both the runner and your table surface when in use.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round and at each petal anchor point to avoid counting errors and maintain symmetry.
  • πŸ’‘Block motifs flat after making to even out stitches and make joining easier; pin petals into a gentle curve while blocking to set the 3D shape.
  • πŸ’‘Stuffing is generally not required for this flat runner; if you want raised centers, use thin batting or felt discs glued to the back under centers for subtle lift.
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use a yarn needle and the same yarn color for nearly invisible seams; weave tails into internal rows to hide ends.
  • πŸ’‘For crisp stitch definition on cotton, work slightly tighter than your usual tension or use a hook 0.25–0.5mm smaller than recommended on the yarn label.
  • πŸ’‘Plan your motif layout on a large flat surface before joining to ensure pleasing spacing and balance; take photos as reference to maintain alignment while sewing.
  • πŸ’‘If using safety pins or T-pins for blocking, place a small scrap fabric under pins to protect delicate table tops and the motifs' fibers.
  • πŸ’‘Keep a notepad or row-counter handy to track rounds in repeated motifs and when working long even rounds during petal or vine construction.

This floral table runner brings handmade charm and botanical beauty to any table setting. Each layered daisy and leaf is carefully shaped to add texture and warmth to your home. I hope creating it gives you as much joy as arranging it on your table. 🌸🧢 Add seasonal colors or personalize with ribbon and make it a signature piece for your dining space! ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

With the suggested yarn and hook, each large daisy measures about 20cm diameter and the complete runner with four daisies and connecting vines measures approx 95-110cm long, depending on spacing between motifs.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Using a lighter or heavier yarn will change finished motif size. Choose a hook size 0.5-1.0mm smaller than the yarn’s recommendation for crisp amigurumi-style motifs or stick to recommended hook for cotton worsted for a flat runner.

Do I need to block motifs before joining?

Blocking is highly recommended. Lightly wet-block or steam motifs and pin them to shape. Blocking flattens centers and opens petals so joins are neat and even.

How much yarn will I need overall?

Approximately 400-450g total worsted-weight cotton: 120g burgundy, 120g blush pink, 100g olive green, 40-60g cream. Exact amounts vary with runner length and yarn brand.

Can I wash the finished runner?

Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent and lay flat to dry. Lightly re-block if needed while damp. Avoid tumble drying.

How can I make the runner longer or shorter?

Add or remove large daisy motifs; adjust chain length between motifs to change spacing. Plan symmetry so ends balance with half-motifs or leaves if required.

Are small flower centers safe for children?

This is a decorative home accessory. If used in a household with young children, sew small pieces securely and avoid small detachable parts that could be swallowed.

Can I make the runner reversible?

Yes, but creating a true reversible runner requires mirrored finishing and meticulous hide of all joins. Consider adding a crocheted or fabric backing for clean reversible results.