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Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern

Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small family of forest spirit amigurumi with two body shapes and multiple decorative masks and branches. You will learn color-carrying techniques, invisible decreases, and simple horn construction to give each spirit personality. The pattern includes step-by-step photos to guide assembly and finishing.

Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed to be customizable, you can mix yarn colors and mask shapes for unique characters. The instructions include clear stitch counts and marker placement for consistent results.

Why You'll Love This Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends simple amigurumi construction with playful botanical details that let me experiment with color and texture. I enjoy how each small mask and branch instantly changes the character and mood of a spirit. The step-by-step photos made it easy for me to learn the color-carrying technique, which gives a neat, seamless look. I also appreciate that there are two body shapes, so I can make a set with varied silhouettes. Sewing the horns and finishing gives a satisfying, creative end to the project.

Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization; you can easily swap the yarn colors to create completely different moods — try autumn stripes or spring pastels.

To make a mini keychain version, use finer crochet thread and a smaller hook; to make a cuddly, chunky version, use bulky yarn with a larger hook.

I often add embroidered eyebrows or tiny felt accessories like crowns or scarves to change expressions and give each spirit personality.

Swap the masks between characters for instant variety — a heart-shaped mask on one and a star on another creates a playful set.

For a seasonal twist, add tiny bell charms for holidays or leave tiny bead 'berries' on branches for extra texture.

I sometimes add a small loop at the top to hang them as ornaments or to make them into bag charms.

Try mixing yarn textures; a sparkly or slubby yarn for masks adds contrast to the smooth cotton body.

If you want posable branches, insert thin craft wire into the branch core before sewing it in place and wrap securely with yarn.

Experiment with different horn shapes by adjusting increases and decreases; a longer horn or curled horn changes the silhouette dramatically.

I recommend testing one small mask pattern and then repeating it on several bodies with different colors — it’s a quick way to build a charming collection.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Missing marker placement at the start of rounds can cause you to lose track of stitch counts; place and move a marker at the start of each round to ensure accuracy. ✗ Not marking front or back loops when required will affect seam lines and horn placement; mark the intended loops with a colored pin so you crochet into the correct loops only. ✗ Changing colors incorrectly will leave visible floats on the front; in the last single crochet before a color change, pull up a loop and finish the stitch with the new color to hide carries neatly. ✗ Overstuffing the body can distort horns and margins; stuff gradually and firmly but do not overdense the stuffing, especially inside horns and small cavities. ✗ Skipping to remove or move markers after joining sections may confuse end-of-row positions; always move or remove the marker as instructed and re-place where the pattern indicates.

Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming set of tiny forest spirit amigurumi inspired by leaves, flowers and woodland textures. This pattern walks you through two body shapes, horns, and lots of small decorative masks and branches so you can personalize each spirit. With clear step-by-step photos and detailed stitch counts, you can create a colorful collection that will brighten any shelf or gift box.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Forest Spirits Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0254 - 'taupe' (darker yarn) for Body 1
  • 02
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - 'camel' (lighter yarn) for Body 1
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - 'camel' (darker yarn) for Body 2
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0404 - 'sand' (lighter yarn) for Body 2
  • 05
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0412 - 'moos' (dark green) for Mask 1
  • 06
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0205 - 'apfel' (darker green) and 0245 - 'anis' (light green) for Mask 2
  • 07
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - 'terracotta' and 0424 - 'kirsche' for Mask 3
  • 08
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0280 - 'lowenzahn' (yellow), 0245 - 'anis' (light green), 0249 - 'gold' for Mask 4
  • 09
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - 'terracotta', 0280 - 'lowenzahn', 0281 - 'orange' for Mask 5
  • 10
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - 'maigrun' for Mask 6 and Leaves
  • 11
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0419 - 'tannembaum' and 0412 - 'moos' for Mask 7
  • 12
    Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0161 - 'teddy' (brown) for branches and 0115 - 'signalrot' (red) for small fruit

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.4 mm or 2 mm (your preferred choice)
  • 02
    Sewing needle and yarn needle for finishing
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Safety pins and sewing pins
  • 05
    Colored marker pins and stitch markers
  • 06
    Pliers (for wire shaping)
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing material
  • 08
    Wire (a few pieces, around 12 cm long each) for branches and posable elements

Progress Tracker

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— Instruments and materials :

Infos :

1.4 mm / 2 mm hook (your preferred choice). Sewing needle, scissors, safety pins, sewing pins, colored marker pins, pliers. Stuffing material. Wire (a few pieces (8 pieces if you plan to crochet all types, around 12 cm long each)). Yarn - I am using the below types of yarn, but you can use whichever brand/type you like. I recommend the mercerized cotton for amigurumis. For Spirit Body 1: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0254 - 'taupe' (darker yarn); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - 'camel' (lighter yarn). For Spirit Body 2: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0179 - 'camel' (darker yarn); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0404 - 'sand' (lighter yarn). For Mask 1: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0412 - 'moos' (dark green). For Mask 2: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0205 - 'apfel' (darker yarn - green); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0245 - 'anis' (lighter yarn - light green). For Mask 3: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - 'terracotta' (darker yarn); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0424 - 'kirsche' (lighter yarn). For Mask 4: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0280 - 'lӧwenzahn' (yellow); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0245 - 'anis' (light green); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0249 - 'gold'. For Mask 5: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0388 - 'terracotta' (darker yarn); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0280 - 'lӧwenzahn' (yellow); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0281 - 'orange'. For Mask 6: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - 'maigrün' (a shade of green). For Mask 7: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0412 - 'moos' (green); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0419 - 'tannembaum' (dark green). For Branches with leaves and red fruits: Branches: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0161 - 'teddy' (brown); Leaves: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - 'maigrün' (a shade of green); Red Fruits: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0115 - 'signalrot' (red). For Branch with long leaf – choose one of the two shades of green below, or use one shade for one plushie and the other shade for another plushie: Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0389 - 'maigrün' (a shade of green); Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0212 - 'khaki' (a shade of green). For mask details embroidery Schachenmayr Catania Originals 0110 - 'schwarz' (black).

— Abbreviations :

Infos :

This pattern is written in US Crochet terminology. Ch - chain. Sc - single crochet. Sc in each Sc around - single crochet in each of the stitches in a row. INC - increase (2Sc into the same stitch). INVDEC - invisible decrease. DEC - decrease. Sl St - slip stitch. FLO - front loops only. FLORFC - front loops only remaining from the foundation chain (instructions for this can be found at the beginning of the 'Masks' section). BLO - back loops only. HDC - half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, you have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through all three loops on the hook). DC - double crochet (yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, you have three loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the hook, you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through both loops on the hook). TR - treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over, pull through, you have four loops on the hook, yarn over, pull through first two loops on the hook, you are left with three loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through first two loops on the hook, you are left with two loops on the hook, yarn over again, pull through both loops remaining on the hook).

— Tips :

Info :

There is a chance that you will lose the beginning of the row; to avoid this, use a marker. It can be a safety pin, clip or thread of contrasting color. This pattern contains 2 body shapes. They have slightly different forms, especially the 'horns' section. Choose the one you like the most, or crochet both, it’s up to you which one you prefer. From my experience the 'Body 1' will be slightly taller than 'Body 2'.

— Body 1 :

Round 1 :

First leg - 6Sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2 :

First leg - 6INC (12)

Round 3 :

First leg - BLO 12Sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

First leg - Sc in each Sc around (12)

Round 6 :

First leg - 2Sc (mark the front loops only on these 2 stitches with a colored pen/marker, marked red in my Image 1), then continue crocheting 10Sc

Info :

Cut the yarn, leave a small tail and hide it inside the leg using a needle.

Round 1 :

Second leg - 6Sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2 :

Second leg - 6INC (12)

Round 3 :

Second leg - BLO 12Sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

Second leg - Sc in each Sc around (12)

Round 6 :

Second leg - 2Sc, Sc (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, yellow in my Image 3), 9Sc (12)

Info :

Now you will crochet the middle section that will connect the two legs. Continue crocheting on the second leg with the following rows: 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain (mark this chain using a marker/pin, orange in my Image 4), Turn (2).

Info :

Take the first leg and connect it with the second leg by crocheting 2Sc. When crocheting these two stitches, Skip the chain, take the back loops only on the second leg (colored in green in my Image 5) and the front loops only on the first leg (the ones you marked with a colored pen, red in my case). In my Image 6 you can see I already did the first Sc, and I have one more left to do, using the two stitches I marked, red and green.

Round 1 :

Body - Sc on the first leg (mark this stitch with a marker/pin), 4Sc, INC, 4Sc (you have now finished the stitches on the first leg), Sc on the marked chain in the last row of the middle part (marked in orange in my case, you can now remove the marker/pin), continue crocheting along the margin of the middle part (I marked the margin with red dots in Image 7) 3Sc, INC, 3Sc, Sc on the marked stitch on the second leg (you can now remove the marker/pin, yellow in my Image 7), continue crocheting on the second leg 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, continue crocheting along the margin of the middle part (I marked the margin with green dots in Image 7) 2Sc, INC, 3Sc (38) Consider this the end of the first row.

Round 2 :

Sc in the marked stitch (you can remove the marker/pin), 4Sc, INC, 7Sc, INC, 4Sc, INC, 6Sc, INC, 3Sc, INC, Sc (44)

Info :

You will now start alternating the yarn colors. But before this, if you don’t know how to change colors seamlessly, here’s how. In the last single crochet before the color change, insert hook in the indicated stitch, pull up a loop (Images 10 & 11). In other words, make a single crochet but don’t finish it! Grab the new color with your crochet hook and finish that single crochet (Images 12 to 15). You have a nice finished single crochet in previous color and a new color loop on your hook (Image 15). The next single crochet will be done in the new colored yarn. Hold your new color yarn as you usually do and crochet as you would normally do. The only difference is that you place the other yarn, the old color, on the back of the stitches of the previous row. This will hold the yarn hidden and carry it along with you. I prefer this method instead of cutting the yarn after each color change.

Round 3 :

'd'2Sc, 'l'11Sc, 'd'31Sc (44)

Round 4 :

'd'2Sc, 'l'11Sc, 'd'15Sc, 'l'1Sc, 'd'15Sc (44)

Round 5 :

'd'1Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'14Sc, 'l'2Sc, 'd'14Sc (44) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 6 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'14Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'11Sc, 'l'2Sc (44)

Round 7 :

'l'6Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'12Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'4Sc (44)

Round 8 :

'l'16Sc, 'd'10Sc, 'l'18Sc (44)

Round 9 :

'l'44Sc around (44)

Round 10 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'19Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'7Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'4Sc (44)

Round 11 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'15Sc, 'd'6Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'2Sc (44)

Round 12 :

'l'4Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'20Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'13Sc (42) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 13 :

'l'3Sc, 'd'39Sc (42)

Round 14 :

'd'6Sc, 'l'19Sc, 'd'17Sc (42)

Round 15 :

'd'7Sc, 'l'INVDEC, 'l'16Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'3Sc, 'l'9Sc (40) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 16 :

'd'8Sc, 'l'1Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'7Sc, 'l'10Sc (40)

Round 17 :

'l'2Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'8Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'l'11Sc (38)

Round 18 :

'l'4Sc, 'd'10Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'7Sc, 'l'7Sc, 'd'5Sc (38)

Round 19 :

'd'1Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'9Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'6Sc (38)

Info :

Stuff the body. Continue crocheting.

Round 20 :

'd'1Sc, 'l'9Sc, 'd'2Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'9Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'2Sc (38)

Round 21 :

'l'9Sc, 'd'4Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'9Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'4Sc, 'l'3Sc (38)

Round 22 :

'l'9Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'9Sc, 'l'2Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'1Sc (38)

Round 23 :

'd'16Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'2Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'1Sc (38)

Round 24 :

'd'18Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'4Sc, 'l'3Sc (38) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 25 :

'd'10Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'4Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'6Sc, 'l'2Sc (38)

Round 26 :

'l'1Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'8Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'7Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'1Sc (38)

Round 27 :

'l'18Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'10Sc (38) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 28 :

'l'19Sc, 'd'5Sc (mark the last stitch, red in my Image 31), 'l'3Sc, 'd'11Sc (38) mark the end of the row with a marker pin – orange in my Image 32

Round 29 :

'd'1Sc (you can cut the darker yarn you will not need it in the next rows). All the next stitches will be done with lighter yarn ('l') 6Sc (mark this last stitch with a marker/pin, yellow in my Image 33), 2Sc, 2INC, 3Sc, 1Sc to connect to the marked stitch (yellow in my Image 34). Consider this last stitch as the end of the row. You will now continue crocheting the first horn.

— Horns :

Round 1 :

First horn - Continue crocheting in spiral, with lighter yarn ('l'). INVDEC, Sc, INC, Sc, INVDEC, Sc, INVDEC

Round 2 :

First horn - INVDEC, Sc, INC, 2Sc, INVDEC

Round 3 :

First horn - 3INVDEC

Info :

Cut the yarn. Use a needle to guide the yarn tail inside the horn. Cut the excess yarn off.

Info :

Second horn - In the first marked stitch in row 28 (red in my Image 41) connect darker colored yarn ('d'). Make 1Sc in the next stitch. Move the marker/pin (red in my case) to this stitch (Image 43). Continue crocheting in spiral with the darker colored yarn ('d').

Round 1 :

Second horn - 3Sc, 2INC, 4Sc, Chain 2 (Image 44), Connect to the marked stitch (red marker in my Image 45) by making 1Sc

Round 2 :

Second horn - 2INVDEC, 2INC, 2INVDEC, Sc, BLO 3Sc (mark the last Sc with a marker/pin, red in my Image 46)

Round 3 :

Second horn - 3Sc (mark the last Sc with a marker/pin, blue in my Image 47), 2INC, 2Sc, Chain 1, connect to marked stitch (blue marker in my case, Image 49 & 50) by making 1Sc. You can remove the marker.

Round 4 :

Second horn - 2Sc, 3INVDEC Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside the horn using a needle.

Round 1 :

Third horn - Connect darker colored yarn ('d') in the marked stitch (red in my Image 54). Make 1Sc in the next stitch. Move the marker here (red in my Image 55). Then continue 1Sc, 2 Sl St at the base of second horn (see red dots in my Image 56), 2 Sl St, 2 FLO Sc, Sc in the marked stitch (red in my case).

Round 2 :

Third horn - 4INVDEC

Round 3 :

Third horn - 3Sc. Fasten off. Cut the yarn, hide the tail inside the horn using a needle.

Info :

Finishing the Body - On the marked stitch on row 29 of the body, (orange marker in my Image 61) connect darker colored yarn ('d'). Sc in the next stitch (move the marker here, orange in my Image 62).

Info :

Continue crocheting 5Sc, Sc at the base of horn in the marked stitch (yellow in my Image 63), Sc on the other side at base of horn, 9Sc, Sc at the base of the other horn (green dot in my Image 66), 2Sc on the middle at the base of horn (red dots in my Image 66), Sc on the other side at the base of horn (blue dot in my Image 66), 4Sc, Sl St in the marked stitch (orange in my Image 68). Fasten off. Cut the yarn, leave a long end for sewing.

Info :

Stuff the body and the horns. Using a needle, guide the yarn tail to one of the extremities of the body, just at the base of one of the horns. Sew to unite the front part of the body to the back part. To do this seamlessly sew the back loops only on the front part with the back loops only on the back part. Hide the tail inside the body.

— Body 2 :

Round 1 :

First leg - 6Sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2 :

First leg - 6INC (12)

Round 3 :

First leg - BLO 12Sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

First leg - Sc in each Sc around (12)

Round 6 :

First leg - 2Sc (mark the front loops only on these 2 stitches with a colored pen/marker, red in my Image 79), 10Sc

Info :

Cut the yarn, leave a small tail and hide it inside the leg using a needle.

Round 1 :

Second leg - 6Sc in magic circle (6)

Round 2 :

Second leg - 6INC (12)

Round 3 :

Second leg - BLO 12Sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

Second leg - Sc in each Sc around (12)

Round 6 :

Second leg - 2Sc, Sc (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, red in my Image 80), 9Sc (12)

Info :

Now you will crochet the middle section that will connect the two legs. Continue crocheting on the second leg with the following rows: 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain, Turn (2); Skip chain, 2Sc, Chain (mark this chain using a marker/pin, blue in my Image 82), Turn (2). Skip marked chain, take the first leg and connect it with the second leg by crocheting 2Sc. When crocheting these two stitches, take the back loops only on the second leg (green in my Image 83 & 84) and the front loops only on the first leg (the ones you marked with a colored pen, red in my Image 83 & 84).

Info :

Then continue crocheting the body.

Round 1 :

Body 2 - Sc on the first leg (mark this stitch with a marker/pin, purple in my Image 86), 4Sc, INC, 4Sc (you have now finished the stitches on the first leg), Sc on the marked chain in the last row of the middle part (blue in my case, you can now remove the marker/pin), continue crocheting along the margin of the middle part 3Sc, INC, 3Sc, continue crocheting on the second leg, Sc on the marked stitch on the second leg (red in my Image 87, you can now remove the marker/pin), continue crocheting on the second leg 4Sc, INC, 4Sc, continue crocheting on the margin of the middle part 2Sc, INC, 3Sc (38) Consider this the end of the first row.

Round 2 :

Sc in the marked stitch (purple in my case, you can remove the marker/pin), 4Sc, INC, 7Sc, INC, 4Sc, INC, 6Sc, INC, 3Sc, INC, Sc (44)

Info :

You will now start alternating the yarn colors. Follow my instructions on changing colors that you can find on the Body 1. Starting with the next row, crochet with darker colored yarn when you read 'd' and with lighter colored yarn when you read 'l'.

Round 3 :

'd'2Sc, 'l'11Sc, 'd'31Sc (44)

Round 4 :

'd'2Sc, 'l'11Sc, 'd'15Sc, 'l'1Sc, 'd'15Sc (44)

Round 5 :

'd'1Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'14Sc, 'l'2Sc, 'd'14Sc (44) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 6 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'4Sc, 'd'14Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'11Sc, 'l'2Sc (44)

Round 7 :

'l'6Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'12Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'4Sc (44)

Round 8 :

'l'16Sc, 'd'10Sc, 'l'18Sc (44)

Round 9 :

'l'44Sc around (44)

Round 10 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'19Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'7Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'4Sc (44)

Round 11 :

'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'l'15Sc, 'd'6Sc, 'l'3Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'2Sc (44)

Round 12 :

'l'4Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'20Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'13Sc (42) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 13 :

'l'3Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'l'19Sc, 'd'17Sc (42)

Round 14 :

'd'7Sc, 'l'INVDEC, 'l'16Sc, 'd'3Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'3Sc, 'l'9Sc (40) Attention, next row starts with a stitch in a new color, so remember to change the color in the last single crochet for this row.

Round 15 :

'd'8Sc, 'l'1Sc, 'd'8Sc, 'l'6Sc, 'd'7Sc, 'l'10Sc (40)

Round 16 :

'l'2Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'd'8Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'5Sc, 'd'INVDEC, 'l'11Sc (38)

Round 17 :

'l'4Sc, 'd'10Sc, 'l'5Sc, 'd'7Sc, 'l'7Sc, 'd'5Sc (38)

Info :

Add stuffing to the legs and body. Continue crocheting as described for Body 1, following the same row structure until finishing and attaching horns as directed earlier in the pattern.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the horns to the body by aligning the base stitches and using the long yarn tail; sew through both layers taking back loops on the back part and front loops on the front part for a seamless join.
  • Hide and secure color-carrying yarn tails by weaving them along the inner back loops and trimming excess; use a needle to guide tails inside small cavities before final stuffing.
  • Attach branches or leaves by sewing through the base of the branch to the side of the body; reinforce attachment with several secure stitches and hide ends inside the body.
  • Position and sew masks or facial details onto the front of the body using matching embroidery threads; pin pieces into place first to ensure symmetry and consistent spacing.
  • Sew the front and back body edges together at the base using mattress or whipstitch, stuffing as you go to achieve the desired firmness and shape before closing completely.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially during color changes and shaping sections.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but not too tightly for the best shape and structure - overstuffing can distort horns and margins.
  • 💡When changing colors, finish the last stitch with the new color to carry yarn neatly and avoid cutting yarn after each change.
  • 💡Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure correct positioning and symmetry.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go to avoid a tedious finishing session at the end.

These little Forest Spirits are perfect to gift or display as a set — each one unique with its mask and branch details. Mix and match colors and masks to build a tiny forest family you will treasure. Happy crocheting and enjoy the tiny handmade magic! 🧶🌿✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 10-12 cm tall when using the recommended mercerized cotton and a 1.4-2.0 mm hook, depending on yarn tension and mask/horn choices.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and stitch counts; choose a hook appropriate for your yarn and expect a scaled result.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it uses color carrying, invisible decreases, and careful marker placement; basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases and working in spiral is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete one spirit in about 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, the number of masks/branches you add, and how many pieces you make in a session.