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Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern

Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a hanging Halloween spiral garland with an internal black spiral tube edged in white and a collection of small, bell-shaped ghosts dangling at intervals. Each ghost is crocheted in white with tiny scalloped bell bases and has unique faces — stitched, felted or embroidered — including X eyes, open scream mouths, stitched smiles, horned baddies, a witch hat ghost, and a hooded grim face. The spiral is slightly stiffened so it holds a graceful helix shape, and each ghost hangs from a crocheted cord loop for easy assembly.

Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design mixes continuous-round amigurumi techniques with simple accessory builds (witch hat, hood) and easy colorwork for the white ridge. Multiple face options let you personalize spooky expressions and the pattern gives clear tips for stuffing, attaching safety eyes and adding small details.

Why You'll Love This Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it feels like a tiny haunted parade you can make in one day. The contrast of stark white ghosts against the deep black spiral creates a dramatic, high-impact decoration, and I adore the small variations in faces — they give each phantom its own personality. The spiral construction is clever but approachable, and you get lots of quick wins as each ghost is small and satisfying to complete.

Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved creating this pattern because it is so customizable — you can make each ghost its own tiny character by changing eyes, mouths, and accessories. Try alternating cream or gray for an aged ghost look, or add a sprinkle of sparkly yarn for ethereal highlights.

I recommend playing with scale: use a thicker yarn and a 5mm hook for a bold, chunky spiral, or a lighter 3.5mm/4.0mm combination for a delicate mobile. You can also adjust the number of ghosts and spacing for different lengths.

I often add small accents like tiny embroidered stars, felt patches, or glow-in-the-dark yarn for eyes to make each phantom pop. Don't be afraid to experiment with placement — the spiral is forgiving and works in many variations.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned charms and uneven spiral shaping; always mark the first stitch of each round ✗ Not stuffing small ghosts firmly at the base can make their scalloped bottom collapse; stuff the bell edge firmly and fill the body lightly ✗ Using too loose tension for the spiral tube will make it floppy; use a slightly smaller hook than recommended to tighten fabric ✗ Securing safety eyes after stuffing can warp the face; insert and lock safety eyes before final stuffing to set placement ✗ Neglecting to weave in tails under several rounds will make joins visible; weave ends at least 4-6 rounds deep for invisibility ✗ Rushing embroidery on faces without a fabric hoop or steady surface can cause uneven stitches; use pins and a hoop if needed for precision

Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern

Make a spooky, swirly hanging garland of tiny crocheted phantoms and one large ghost with a dramatic black spiral. This pattern includes a long spiral tube with a contrast white ridge and nine unique mini ghosts — stitched faces, a witch hat, and a hooded grim face. Perfect for Halloween décor, a doorway hanger, or a gift for a ghostly friend. Uses simple amigurumi shaping, surface embroidery, and a few accessory techniques to personalize each phantom.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Halloween Phantoms Spiral Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150-180g in Black (main spiral)
  • 02
    200-250g in White (ghosts, ridge and cords)
  • 03
    Small amount (10-15g) of Red for scars/eye accents
  • 04
    Small amount (10-20g) of Black for embroidered mouths and features

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter tension on small faces (optional)
  • 03
    2.5mm (C) hook for delicate details (optional)
  • 04
    Safety eyes 6mm and 8mm (assorted)
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for positioning charms
  • 10
    Flexible floral wire or thin craft wire (optional) to help hold spiral shape
  • 11
    Hot glue or fabric glue (optional) for felt pieces

Progress Tracker

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— Spiral Tube (Body/Spine) :

Overview :

This long spiral is constructed as a narrow amigurumi tube worked in continuous rounds in black, then given a white spiral ridge by crocheting an attached chain and single crochet edge as you go. To keep the spiral stable, we recommend inserting a length of flexible floral wire inside the tube or crocheting the tube around a cord. The tube finished length is approximately 70-85 cm depending on tension; you can lengthen or shorten by adding or subtracting rounds. This section includes 120 continuous rounds (long) to make the full spiral length; trim or extend to your desired finished height.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Info :

At the end of round 7 your tube circumference is 42 sts which gives a sturdy narrow spiral tube. If you prefer a slightly thinner spiral, stop increases at round 6 (36 sts). If you plan to insert floral wire, push it through the opening now so it runs up the center while you crochet.

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 9-120 :

1 sc in each st (42) — work even for desired length (for reference work 112 rounds even after round 8 for a long spiral)

Info :

Every 10 rounds add an Info check: press the tube flat to ensure even work and that the optional wire is centered. If carrying the wire, leave an extra 10 cm protruding at the top for shaping the hanging loop later.

Round 121 :

For closure of the bottom: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 122 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 123 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 124 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 125 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 126 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Leave a long tail (30-40 cm) for sewing and attach a small felt base or continue stuffing lightly if you want the spiral bottom closed. Fasten off and weave tail inside tube. If you inserted wire, tuck the wire end back inside the tube and secure with a couple of stitches.

White Ridge Edge - Continuous Spiral :

To create the white spiral ridge that winds up the black tube, we’ll crochet a long chained cord in white along the length and attach it with slip stitches to the outer surface in a spiral. You can work the white ridge as you go or add after the tube is complete. Instructions below assume the tube is complete.

Info :

Mark a starting point at the top of the tube. Starting from the top, we will work a 4-chain loop and join with sl st to the outside of the tube, then crochet a 1-row cord across and continue spiralling downward. This ridge is decorative and stabilizes the tube profile.

Ridge Step 1 :

With white yarn, at top of tube: ch 4, sl st into the side of the tube (this anchors the ridge)

Ridge Step 2 :

Ch 1, *sc into next ch, ch 1, sc into next ch* — work down the chain to make a narrow cord (3 sc in chain); sl st to the next outer loop of the tube to anchor; continue ch 4, sc along, anchor every 6-8 black tube rounds to create even spiral spacing. Repeat until you reach bottom.

Info :

To make the ridge look textured, after anchoring the white cord with sl sts, work 1 sc around the white cord from the tube side (pulling the white slightly to one side) creating a raised edge. You can also work 1 sc BLO along the edge for a ridge effect.

Final Ridge Finish :

When you reach the bottom, fasten off and weave ends into the tube for a tidy finish. If desired, block lightly by shaping the spiral and letting it rest around a dowel or object that enforces the helical shape until the yarn relaxes.

— Big Base Ghost (Large Ghost at Bottom) :

Overview :

This big ghost is the largest phantom at the bottom — worked from top to bottom in continuous rounds and left open at the bottom with a scalloped bell edge. It uses more rounds (28) to create height and a fuller skirt. Use safety eyes 8mm and surface embroidery for details.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-12 :

1 sc in each st (36) — work even to make tall head/body (6 rounds)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 9-10 approximately 8-10 stitches apart based on desired expression. If using felt mouth/eyes, leave until after stuffing. Embroidered scars (red) are added at the end and should be marked now with pins if desired.

Round 13 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 14 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Begin light stuffing in the head section so face remains round; do not overstuff the skirt bottom section — we want the ruffle to hang freely.

Round 15 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 17 :

6 sc (12) — continue without decreasing to form a short neck before bell

Round 18 :

Change to bottom bell shaping: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 20 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 9 (27)

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st (27)

Round 22 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 9 (36)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 24 :

Shell border — *skip 1 st, (5 dc in next st), skip1, sl st into next* rep around (creates scalloped skirt). Note stitch counts will vary due to shells; work to visual fit (approx 12 shells)

Info :

Stuff skirt lightly from the top down and press the scallops into shape. Use small balls of fiberfill to support shell tips if you want more lift. Fasten off leaving long tail for hanging cord if desired.

Round 25 :

Fasten off and weave ends. Add safety eyes (8mm) now if not already set. Embroider mouth as large oval in black yarn or attach black felt oval for open scream; add red embroidered scars if desired.

— Small Ghost Template (Make 9 with personal faces) :

Overview :

Small bell ghosts are identical in basic shape — each worked the same rounds with small variations for faces. Make 9 small ghosts; sample faces are provided as variations (X eyes, stitched mouth, open scream, horned, witch hat, hooded grim). Each small ghost uses 16 rounds and a 5-6 st scalloped base. Use safety eyes 6mm or black embroidery depending on look.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30) — work 4 rounds even for body height

Info :

Place 6mm safety eyes between rounds 7-8 approx 6-8 sts apart depending on expression. For stitched eyes, mark with pins and embroider after stuffing. Start light stuffing at round 8 and continue as you finish the body.

Round 10 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 13 :

6 sc (12) — short neck round to prepare for scalloped base

Round 14 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 15 :

Shell round — *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip1, sl st* repeat around to make 6 scallops; join with sl st and fasten off (approx 6 shells)

Round 16 :

Weave in tails; embroider facial details or attach felt; add hanging cord by tying a small length of white yarn at top and weaving ends inside head and knotting out of sight

Info :

Stuff the bell firmly at the scalloped edge so the scallops hold shape. For tiny horns or ears, use small extra stitches attached to side rounds (see horned ghost below).

— Ghost Face Variations (Apply to each small ghost) :

Variant A - X Eyes :

Use black embroidery yarn. Mark two eye positions between rounds 7-8. Stitch an X for each eye using satin stitch or long cross stitch. For mouth, embroider small jagged smile with black yarn across 6-8 stitches.

Variant B - Scream Face (long oval mouth) :

Attach a black felt oval or embroider an elongated oval starting round 8 centered below eyes. Add two small teardrop shapes above as eye shadows using black felt or tight satin stitch.

Variant C - Stitched Smile :

Sew 6 small vertical stitches to simulate stitched mouth. Use black yarn and a simple backstitch. Add small felt round eyes or safety eyes for extra expression.

Variant D - Angry Eyes (red accent) :

Use small red embroidery thread to make thin slanted eyes. Attach black pupil beads in the center. Embroider a jagged mouth with black yarn for a fierce look.

Variant E - Witch Hat Ghost :

Make a small hat and place it on top of the ghost head (hat pattern below). Secure with a few sewing stitches through the top rounds. Place eyes slightly lower to show brim.

Variant F - Hooded Grim Face :

Crochet a tiny hood in black and slip over the top rounds of the ghost, leaving face exposed. Embroider skull-like features in black and red for eyes.

— Witch Hat (Accessory for 1 ghost) :

Overview :

Small witch hat constructed in black in continuous rounds. Works up quickly and is sewn to a single ghost. Make brim then cone.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Work even 18 sc (18)

Round 5 :

Brim — ch 6, sl st into same stitch, rotate and make 12 sl st around (creates small flat brim). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Info :

For a taller cone, pick up stitches at center and work 6-8 rounds decreasing slightly for a witchy point, then sew brim to cone and attach to ghost top.

— Hood (Accessory for Grim Hooded Ghost) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Rounds 4-7 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 4 rounds to create hood depth

Round 8 :

Fold in half and seam the back with sl st or sew leaving front open to expose face; fasten off and weave tail for attachment

Info :

Pin the hood onto the ghost before sewing — you can roll the front edge slightly for a dramatic shaded face. Use a few stitches at the sides to secure.

— Horned Mini Ghost (1 variant) :

Horn (Make 2) Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (6)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 4 :

Decrease round (1 sc, dec) x 2 (4) — fasten off leaving tail to sew horn to side rounds of ghost near rounds 7-8

Info :

Attach horns symmetrically to either side of face at the same round; sew through several stitches for security because horns will be handled when hanging.

— Hooded Grim (Black Cloaked Mini) :

Body :

Work small ghost template Rounds 1-13 in black to create a cloaked hooded body. At round 10, reduce eyes and leave mouth area exposed by not adding safety eyes; instead embroider face in white thread.

Info :

To make the skeletal face, use white yarn to embroider round eyes and mouth; add red accents to make it more sinister. Sew the separate hood piece over the top and tack in the back.

— Hanging Cord & Assembly Loops :

Round 1 :

Make a braided cord: ch 40 with white yarn, fasten off and braid 3 strands for strength (or twist a 3-strand cord). Alternatively crochet ch 40 and sl st back for a tidy cord.

Info :

Attach a small loop at the top of the spiral for hanging. If your spiral has floral wire protruding at the top, bend the wire into a small loop and wrap with yarn to cover metal before adding a sewn cord for hanging.

Small Ghost Cord Attachment :

Sew a 10-12 cm white cord into the top center of each small ghost and knot on the inside. Use a long tail and attach by pulling the knot inside the head and securing with a couple of whip stitches. Vary lengths when attaching to the spiral to create staggered hanging positions.

Info :

Test each hanging length by pinning the spiral to a vertical surface and adjusting distance to avoid ghost overlap; aim for 5-7 cm vertical separation between adjacent ghosts depending on final spiral pitch.

— Face Embroidery & Felt Pieces :

Info :

For precise faces, cut small felt shapes (ovals for open mouths, teardrops for Scream eyes) and glue them using fabric glue, then secure with a few hand stitches. Embroidered details should be done with a sharp yarn needle and short, tidy stitches; tie knots on the inside and hide tails through at least 4 rounds.

Embroidered Mouth Option :

Use black yarn to backstitch a mouth following the curvature of round 9-10. For a stitched mouth style, work vertical tiny satin stitches across 6-8 stitches then secure ends inside with a neat knot and weave.

Info :

If using safety eyes instead of embroidery, insert them between rounds 7-9 before stuffing fully and lock washers securely. For felt or glued pieces on items destined for children, avoid glue and opt for tightly sewn felt embroidery instead.

— Putting It All Together (Detailed Assembly Instructions) :

Info :

Lay the spiral flat and decide ghost positions visually before sewing. Use pins to mark each spot. When satisfied, thread the hanging cord of each ghost through an outer stitch of the white ridge or sew cord to the black tube at the selected round, then knot and hide the knot inside the tube by tucking under a couple of rounds.

Info :

For a stable layout, attach the largest ghost at the very bottom center and balance the small ghosts along the spiral so heavier-looking pieces (hats, hoods) are distributed evenly. If using wire inside the spiral, make sure wire ends are trimmed and tucked away before finalizing attachments.

Final Details :

Once all ghosts are attached, lightly press the spiral into its desired helix and let it rest over a rounded object for 24 hours to set. Add any last embroidery touches and trim stray fibers. Check all sewn connections and reinforce as needed.

Info :

Optional: spray with a small amount of yarn-safe starch if you want the spiral more rigid (test on a scrap). Let dry fully before hanging.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the main spiral tube to the hanging loop: if you used wire, form a small loop at the top and wrap with yarn, then sew the cord over it to hide metal
  • Decide positions for all small ghosts and pin them to the spiral ridge. Space them so none overlap heavily; aim for about 6-8 cm vertical spacing
  • Attach each ghost by sewing its braided cord to the white ridge or directly into an outer stitch of the spiral tube on the marked round; knot the cord neatly inside the tube and weave tail at least 4 rounds into the tube
  • Sew the large base ghost to the bottom opening of the spiral — center it and use ladder stitch around the seam for a neat join; reinforce with extra passes so it supports weight
  • Position witch hat and hood accessories and tack them on with small stitches through top rounds 5-9 of their ghosts; hide ends inside the ghost body
  • Secure all safety eyes and check embroidery: run an extra pass of stitches across embroidery if needed, and weave all loose ends deeply inside each ghost

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like the spiral tube and the ghosts' necks
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches; use a slightly smaller hook for a denser fabric
  • 💡If adding floral wire, fold the ends inward and cover with a few stitches or tape before inserting into yarn to avoid poking through

This haunting spiral garland is a charmingly spooky fusion of small, expressive ghosts and a dramatic black-and-white helix — a fun project with instant seasonal impact. Each tiny phantom has its own personality, and the whole piece comes together with satisfying, quick little finishes. Make one for your front door, over a mantle, or as a Halloween gift — it's playful, spooky, and utterly addictive to stitch! 🎃👻

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished garland will measure approximately 70-85 cm (27-33 inches) in length from the hanging loop to the bottom of the large ghost. Individual small ghosts measure about 6-8 cm tall; the big base ghost is approx 12-14 cm tall. Using different yarn weights or different hook sizes will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the final size; lighter yarn makes a more delicate spiral, heavier makes a chunkier, sturdier hanger.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure, perfect for adult decor. Embroidered eyes are ideal for homes with small children as they remove small parts and allow more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this project, approximately 80-140 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient depending on how much stuffing you put in the spiral tube and ghosts. Stuff the ghosts firmly for shaped bell bases and the spiral tube lightly if using a wire; the big base ghost will need more stuffing to achieve a full skirt.

Can I make the spiral poseable?

Absolutely! Insert flexible floral wire, craft wire or a wrapped pipe cleaner inside the central tube before finishing. This lets you shape the helix and keep it in position. Make sure to fold and secure wire ends to prevent poking through the yarn.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error early, unravel to where the count was correct and rework that section. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round and checking counts every 6-10 rounds helps prevent mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension and use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation. When stuffing, add fiberfill in small amounts evenly rather than big chunks to avoid visible lumps or gaps.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use seasonal colors, metallic thread accents, or glow-in-the-dark yarn for spooky highlights. You can also vary eyes, facial expressions, hat styles, and the pitch of the spiral to create unique looks.