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Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern
4.0★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧥

Layered Comfort

Perfect for cozy, stylish layering through changing seasons with versatile, mix-and-match potential.

About This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

This pattern creates a Lion Graphgan cocoon cardigan built from a corner-to-corner (C2C) graph. You will work a 69x69 block square featuring a large lion motif, then border and fold the square into a cocoon-style cardigan. Techniques include altered small C2C blocks, color changes, and post stitch texture for the collar and sleeves.

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes a full color graph, row-by-row color counts, and step-by-step assembly for sleeves and collar. Recommended for crocheters comfortable with C2C basics and colorwork.

Why You'll Love This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines bold graphic colorwork with a wearable, cozy silhouette that feels like a hug. The lion motif is dramatic and makes the cardigan a real statement piece that still stays comfortable and drapey. I enjoyed reworking the traditional C2C into a slightly smaller block so the design reads clearly at cardigan scale. Every time I wear it, I get compliments and people ask how it was made—which always makes me smile.

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize colors in this graphgan; try swapping the claret and gold for navy and cream to create a more subtle, classic look.

If you want a chunkier, warmer cardigan, I often switch to a bulky yarn and a larger hook to create a cozy, oversized version that works great for winter.

To make a smaller or larger garment, change yarn weight and hook size and watch how the block scale alters the motif; a sport-weight yarn will give a more detailed lion but will take longer to make.

I sometimes embroider small details over the woven-in graph edges to sharpen lines where catty-corner color changes don't quite connect, which helps define the lion's tail or mane.

Consider adding a buttoned or belted closure: sew on small buttons and make button bands into the collar to convert the cocoon into a wrap-style cardigan.

For a different texture, experiment with surface crochet outlining the lion in a contrasting color to make the motif pop from the background.

I also like to make matching accessories like a simple beanie or cowl using leftovers from the same yarn colors to create a coordinated set.

If you'd like a reversible look, try placing identical graphs on both sides or selecting shades with similar values so the lion reads on both wrong and right sides.

To adapt for different armhole depths, sew the sides together less or more than the recommended 9 inches and test on yourself or a dress form before finishing the seams permanently.

Finally, experiment with subtle gradient backgrounds by swapping between two background shades every 8-10 rows for a sunrise or ombre effect behind the lion.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Leaving all yarn ends until the very end causes an overwhelming finishing task and messy edges; tie in and sew ends as you go after each row or color change. ✗ Using the yarn's recommended hook without testing gauge can create a stiff or small cardigan; try a larger hook (the designer uses US J/6mm) to achieve a light, drapey fabric. ✗ Not counting blocks carefully on each row leads to misaligned graph placement; mark or color in your graph as you finish each row to track progress accurately. ✗ Ignoring right-side/wrong-side instructions for even and odd rows will tangle yarn ends and reverse color floats; follow the note to keep ends to the front on even rows and to the back on odd rows.

Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

Make a bold, cozy cocoon cardigan featuring a striking lion graph using small C2C blocks. This pattern walks you through building the graphgan square, finishing the edges, and assembling a wearable cocoon with sleeves and a textured collar. You will love the dramatic colorwork and wearable blanket feel—perfect for layering or gifting.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Loops & Threads Impeccable (worsted weight #4), Claret (Color A) - about 5 skeins
  • 02
    Loops & Threads Impeccable (worsted weight #4), Gold (Color B) - about 3 skeins

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size US J (6mm)
  • 02
    Tapestry (yarn) needle
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (optional, helpful for armholes and seams)
  • 05
    Measuring tape or ruler (for measuring 9 inches for armholes)
  • 06
    Pins for blocking and pinning pieces for sewing
  • 07
    Extra yarn for mattress stitch touch-ups

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Part I: The Graphgan :

Info :

The row # is equal to the # of blocks per row until row 70. When finished, this section will be 69 blocks long by 69 blocks wide. Begin in color A.

Round 1 :

Row 1: ch4, hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain. (1 block)

Round 2 :

Row 2: ch4, turn. Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain. Slst into the chain space created in row 1 (1st block of this row is now done). Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space. (2nd block of the row done).

Round 3 :

Row 3: ch4, turn. Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in next (and last) chain (1st block of this row done). Slst into the chain space created by the 2nd block of row 2. Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space (2nd block of this row done). Slst into the chain space created by the 1st block of row 2. Ch2, hdc2 into the chain space (3rd block of this row done.)

Round 4-27 :

Rows 4-27: Continue small C2C pattern in color A until row 27 (until there are 27 block points on the most recently finished row).

Info :

Row 28 Notes: Color changes start now. For even rows, keep yarn ends to the front (the "wrong side"). For odd rows, keep yarn ends to the back (the "right side"). I recommend sewing in ends after each row. If you're following along with the graph: even number sides begin on the bottom/left and end on the right/top. odd number sides begin on the right/top and end on the bottom/left. For example, if you're doing row 10, you begin at the block labeled 10 on the bottom side of the graph and end at the block labeled 10 on the right side of the graph. I recommend coloring in the rows as you finish them.

Round 28 :

Row 28: 5 blocks in color A, 1 block in color B, 22A to end

Round 29 :

Row 29: 22A, 2B, 5A to end

Round 30 :

Row 30: 5A, 2B, 23A to end

Round 31 :

Row 31: 23A, 3B, 5A to end

Round 32 :

Row 32: 5A, 3B, 25A to end

Round 33 :

Row 33: 25A, 2B, 6A to end

Round 34 :

Row 34: 6A, 3B, 25A to end

Round 35 :

Row 35: 26A, 2B, 7A to end

Round 36 :

Row 36: 7A, 3B, 26A to end

Round 37 :

Row 37: 27A, 2B, 8A to end

Round 38 :

Row 38: 8A, 3B, 27A to end

Round 39 :

Row 39: 28A, 2B, 9A to end

Round 40 :

Row 40: 4A, 1B, 4A, 3B, 28A to end

Round 41 :

Row 41: 28A, 3B, 4A, 2B, 4A to end

Round 42 :

Row 42: 4A, 2B, 4A, 4B, 28A to end

Round 43 :

Row 43: 28A, 4B, 4A, 3B, 4A to end

Round 44 :

Row 44: 4A, 3B, 4A, 6B, 27A to end

Round 45 :

Row 45: 27A, 6B, 4A, 3B, 5A to end

Round 46 :

Row 46: 5A, 3B, 4A, 7B, 14A, 2B, 11A to end

Round 47 :

Row 47: 11A, 3B, 13A, 7B, 4A, 3B, 6A to end

Round 48 :

Row 48: 6A, 3B, 6A, 6B, 12A, 3B, 12A to end

Round 49 :

Row 49: 12A, 4B, 12A, 6B, 5A, 3B, 7A to end

Round 50 :

Row 50: 8A, 3B, 5A, 6B, 11A, 4B, 13A to end

Round 51 :

Row 51: 14A, 3B, 11A, 7B, 4A, 3B, 9A to end

Round 52 :

Row 52: 9A, 4B, 3A, 8B, 10A, 4B, 14A to end

Round 53 :

Row 53: 15A, 3B, 11A, 7B, 2A, 5B, 10A to end

Round 54 :

Row 54: 11A, 5B, 1A, 8B, 10A, 3B, 10A to end

Round 55 :

Row 55: 16A, 3B, 10A, 14B, 12A to end

Round 56 :

Row 56: 12A, 15B, 9A, 3B, 17A to end

Round 57 :

Row 57: 18A, 3B, 5A, 18B, 13A to end

Round 58 :

Row 58: 14A, 20B, 2A, 3B, 19A to end

Round 59 :

Row 59: 20A, 24B, 15A to end

Round 60 :

Row 60: 17A, 23B, 20A to end

Round 61 :

Row 61: 21A, 22B, 18A to end

Round 62 :

Row 62: 19A, 22B, 21A to end

Round 63 :

Row 63: 21A, 22B, 20A to end

Round 64 :

Row 64: 20A, 24B, 20A to end

Round 65 :

Row 65: 20A, 25B, 20A to end

Round 66 :

Row 66: 20A, 2B, 1A, 23B, 20A to end

Round 67 :

Row 67: 20A, 23B, 2A, 1B, 21A to end

Round 68 :

Row 68: 21A, 2B, 3A, 23B, 19A to end

Round 69 :

Row 69: 18A, 23B, 5A, 1B, 22A to end (This is the biggest row)

Info :

Row 70 notes: The remaining rows are decreases. Instead of ch4, hdc2 at the start of each row, to start a new row: (no chain) turn, slst3 across the last block from the previous row into the chain space, then ch2 hdc2 in the chain space as normal, and finish the rest of the row as normal as well.

Round 70 :

Row 70: 21A, 2B, 6A, 23B, 16A (68 blocks total wide)

Round 71 :

Row 71: 15A, 6B, 2A, 15B, 6A, 2B, 21A (67 blocks)

Round 72 :

Row 72: 21A, 2B, 7A, 13B, 3A, 6B, 14A (66 blocks)

Round 73 :

Row 73: 13A, 6B, 3A, 13B, 7A, 2B, 21A (65 blocks)

Round 74 :

Row 74: 21A, 2B, 7A, 13B, 4A, 4B, 13A (64 blocks)

Round 75 :

Row 75: 12A, 4B, 5A, 12B, 7A, 2B, 21A (63 blocks)

Round 76 :

Row 76: 21A, 2B, 7A, 12B, 5A, 2B, 13A (62 blocks)

Round 77 :

Row 77: 18A, 1B, 1A, 11B, 7A, 2B, 21A (61 blocks)

Round 78 :

Row 78: 21A, 2B, 6A, 11B, 1A, 2B, 17A (60 blocks)

Round 79 :

Row 79: 16A, 14B, 6A, 2B, 21A (59 blocks)

Round 80 :

Row 80: 21A, 2B, 6A, 13B, 16A (57 blocks)

Round 81 :

Row 81: 16A, 12B, 6A, 2B, 21A (57 blocks)

Round 82 :

Row 82: 21A, 1B, 6A, 13B, 15A (56 blocks)

Round 83 :

Row 83: 12A, 2B, 2A, 11B, 6A, 1B, 21A (55 blocks)

Round 84 :

Row 84: 21A, 1B, 6A, 11B, 2A, 3B, 10A (54 blocks)

Round 85 :

Row 85: 10A, 3B, 1A, 12B, 5A, 1B, 21A (53 blocks)

Round 86 :

Row 86: 20A, 1B, 6A, 16B, 9A (52 blocks)

Round 87 :

Row 87: 9A, 16B, 5A, 1B, 20A (51 blocks)

Round 88 :

Row 88: 20A, 1B, 5A, 15B, 9A (50 blocks)

Round 89 :

Row 89: 9A, 14B, 5A, 1B, 20A (49 blocks)

Round 90 :

Row 90: 24A, 16B, 8A (48 blocks)

Round 91 :

Row 91: 9A, 15B, 4A, 1B, 19A (47 blocks)

Round 92 :

Row 92: 24A, 14B, 8A (46 blocks)

Round 93 :

Row 93: 7A, 14B, 5A, 1B, 18A (45 blocks)

Round 94 :

Row 94: 12A, 1B, 4A, 1B, 4A, 15B, 7A (44 blocks)

Round 95 :

Row 95: 6A, 15B, 4A, 2B, 3A, 1B, 12A (43 blocks)

Round 96 :

Row 96: 12A, 1B, 2A, 2B, 6A, 13B, 6A (42 blocks)

Round 97 :

Row 97: 5A, 13B, 6A, 6B, 11A (41 blocks)

Round 98 :

Row 98: 11A, 5B, 5A, 14B, 5A (40 blocks)

Round 99 :

Row 99: 4A, 14B, 5A, 5B, 11A (39 blocks)

Round 100 :

Row 100: 12A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 7A, 13B, 3A (38 blocks)

Round 101 :

Row 101: 3A, 11B, 8A, 2B, 13A (37 blocks)

Round 102 :

Row 102: 23A, 8B, 1A, 1B, 3A (36 blocks)

Round 103 :

Row 103: 3A, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1A, 7B, 21A (35 blocks)

Round 104 :

Row 104: 21A, 2B, 1A, 3B, 1A, 2B, 14A (34 blocks)

Round 105 :

Row 105: 4A, 1B, 1A, 3B, 24A (33 blocks)

Round 106 :

Row 106: 22A, 4B, 1A, 1B, 4A (32 blocks)

Round 107 :

Row 107: 6A, 3B, 22A (31 wide)

Round 108-137 :

Rows 108-137: All color A to the end. Will be a perfect square after row 137.

Info :

Cut yarn and tie in ends. This is the end of the graphgan square. You now have a nice baby blanket. Go through with a tapestry needle and extra yarn and touch up any edges you don't like. In corner to corners, catty-corner color changes (like on the thin part of the lion's tail) often don't connect.

— Part II: Sweater Assembly :

Info :

Dc along the entire perimeter of the square. Each block should have 2 dcs in it (it's easiest to count 4 stitches for every 2 blocks, due to the repetitive nature of the C2C pattern). For the corners: dc2 in the last block on that side, ch2, dc2 in the first block on the next side. Proceed as usual. When the square is entirely bordered in dcs, ch1, cut and tie off yarn.

Info :

Fold the square in half such that the back side (wrong side) of the lion's head is touching the back side (wrong side) of the lion's feet. Sew together (mattress stitch recommended) both of the two shorter sides, starting from the where the corners meet to 9 inches before the fold. The 9 unsewed inches will become the arm holes. Cut and tie off yarn. Your piece should now be starting to resemble a cocoon cardigan.

Round 1 :

Sleeves: Row 1: slst into the space just to the left of where your sewing ends. Ch3 (counts as 1 dc), dc into each dc around the arm hole. When you get back to your chain 3, count the dcs you just made. If you don't have an even number, add 1 dc in the space next to where you sewing ends. On the second sleeve, make sure you have the same number of dcs as the first sleeve. Slst into the ch3.

Round 2-4 :

Row 2-4: ch3, fpdc1, [bpdc1, fpdc1] to end. Slst into ch3. Ch1, cut yarn and tie off.

Round 5 :

Collar: Row 1: Slst into the space just to the left of where your sewing ends. Ch3 (counts as 1 bpdc). Bpdc1, [fpdc2, bpdc2] until you get to the opposite end of the sweater where your other sewing is. Dc1 in each of the spaces around your sewing, then continue the [fpdc2, bpdc2] pattern as if these two dcs were part of it. When you come to the ch3, add any dcs needed to keep the [fpdc2, bpdc2] pattern even on the next row (you should end with 2 fpdcs before the ch3). Slst into the ch3.

Round 6-10 :

Row 2-6: Ch3, bpdc1, fpdc2, [bpdc2, fpdc2] to end, slst into ch3. Ch1, cut and tie off yarn. Sew in any lose ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Border the entire graphgan square with double crochets: work 2 dcs in each block (count 4 stitches for every 2 blocks). For corners, dc2 in the last block, ch2, dc2 in the first block on the next side; when border is complete, ch1 and fasten off.
  • Fold the bordered square in half so the wrong sides of the lion's head and feet face each other; mattress stitch both shorter sides starting where the corners meet and stopping 9 inches before the center fold to create armholes.
  • For each sleeve, slst to the space left of your sewing ends, ch3 (counts as dc), then dc around the armhole; adjust so you have an even number of dcs, slst to join, then work rows 2-4 in ch3, fpdc1, [bpdc1, fpdc1] to form the textured sleeve.
  • Work the collar by joining at the left of a sewing end, ch3 (counts as bpdc), then work bpdc1, [fpdc2, bpdc2] around to the opposite sewing; add dcs as needed to keep the post-stitch pattern even and work rows 2-6 as written, finish and sew in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a larger hook than the yarn calls for if you want a softer, drapier cardigan and to avoid stiffness.
  • 💡Tie in and weave ends as you go, especially during the many color changes, to prevent a huge finishing task at the end.
  • 💡Pin the folded square and measure 9 inches for armholes before sewing to ensure both armholes are even and the cardigan fits as intended.

This Lion Graphgan Cocoon Cardigan transforms a bold corner-to-corner graph into a wearable, cozy layer that's as dramatic as it is comfortable. The large lion motif paired with rich contrasting colors makes a standout statement piece that also feels like a soft blanket. Make it for yourself or a lucky friend and enjoy the warmth and compliments it brings. 🧶🦁

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The graphgan square is 69 blocks by 69 blocks; finished garment sizing will depend on your tension and border/assembly choices but is designed to be a roomy cocoon fit.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

You can, but changing yarn weight will alter the finished size significantly; if using a different weight, adjust hook size and check gauge by making a small swatch of the small C2C block.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with C2C technique, color changes, and reading a graph to follow the row-by-row color counts.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

This pattern usually takes about 12-15 hours for experienced crocheters, though time will vary depending on speed, familiarity with C2C, and how often you sew in ends as you go.