🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

Lucy the Monkey is a sweet amigurumi toy crocheted in sport/DK weight yarn with a tiny flower accessory and removable-feel construction. The pattern includes complete round-by-round instructions for head, body, arms, legs, ears, tail and flower, plus assembly guidance. It features shaping techniques, invisible decreases and photo tutorials for finishing details.

Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Follow the step-by-step directions and photo tutorials for precise placement of eyes, joints and facial details. This pattern is perfect for an intermediate crocheter looking to refine shaping and finishing skills.

Why You'll Love This Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it brings a gentle, characterful monkey to life with simple, thoughtful shaping and charming details like the flower and embroidered nostrils. I enjoyed designing the head shaping to create a sweet face that is expressive yet easy to make. The pattern balances clear instructions with photographic guidance so you can build confidence in assembly techniques. Making Lucy always reminds me why I love amigurumi — the results are instantly heartwarming and gift-ready.

Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Lucy the Monkey by swapping yarn colors; try pastels for a baby-friendly toy or bright shades for a playful look.

For a bigger, cuddlier version I often switch to a bulky yarn and a larger hook—this changes the size and gives a super-soft feel.

I sometimes embroider different facial expressions by varying eye placement or changing the nostril shape for a sleepy or surprised look.

Try adding little clothes or a tiny scarf to personalize Lucy—crochet a dress, hat or tiny booties in coordinating colors for extra charm.

I like to use felt or embroidered details for safety-conscious toys; felt cheeks or a stitched mouth can be adorable and safe for gifting.

Swap the flower for other accessories like a bow, tiny crown, or a crocheted banana prop to change the character's personality.

For posability, use wire armatures inside the limbs (careful for safety if the toy is for small children) or choose different joint types like buttons or cotter pins.

If you prefer a more realistic texture, try using a slightly fuzzy yarn for soft fur—just note the stitch definition will be different and embroidery may need adjusting.

I often play with stitch tension to create a firmer fabric for durable toys or looser tension for a squishier feel—test a small swatch first.

Don't be afraid to mix yarn brands; match weights and adjust hook sizes to keep the finished proportions similar to the original pattern.

When customizing, I always document my changes (yarn, hook, rounds modified) so I can repeat a favorite variation or scale the pattern up or down in the future.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not placing the stitch marker on round 7 as instructed can make eye placement inaccurate; place the marker between the 17th and 18th stitch to mark the center of the face and count stitches carefully for even eye spacing. ✗ Forgetting to stuff gradually causes lumps or a flattened shape; add small amounts of polyester fill after every few rounds and shape firmly but evenly to maintain smooth contours. ✗ Skipping the instruction to work round 4 of the legs in back loops only will change the foot shape; follow the back loop only instruction exactly to get the intended ridge and foot profile. ✗ Changing yarns without securing tails can cause messy joins that come undone; use the recommended yarn change method (tie, knot and hide the tails) and weave or trim tails carefully into the fabric. ✗ Not attaching joints with the correct orientation will make limbs hang awkwardly; attach the smaller and larger plastic joints between the rounds specified so the posts face straight toward the body as shown.

Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet your very own Lucy the Monkey with this detailed intermediate amigurumi pattern. You will receive clear, photographed instructions and complete round-by-round shaping to create a cuddly monkey with ears, tail and a tiny flower accessory. Perfect as a thoughtful handmade gift or a keepsake to brighten your home or nursery.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lucy the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend, Scheepjes 'Stone Washed' 130m (142yd) / 50g: approx. 50g brown (822 brown agate) and 11g cream (801 moonstone)
  • 02
    DK weight cotton, Cascade Yarns 'Ultra Pima' 200m (220yd) / 100g: a few grams of yellow (3743 yellow rose) and peach (3856 peach cobbler) for the flower
  • 03
    Polyester fiberfill or wool wadding/padding for stuffing
  • 04
    Dark brown cotton embroidery floss for nostrils and small facial details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.50 mm (US size 2/C)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 3.00 mm (US size 3/D) (optional for tension adjustments)
  • 03
    9 mm (3/8") safety eyes (or suitable buttons/beads)
  • 04
    Two 20 mm and two 15 mm plastic doll joints (or safety eyes/buttons and thread) for limb joints
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Pins for assembly positioning
  • 09
    Sewing thread for attaching floral or delicate pieces (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

sc 2, dbl-inc x 2, sc 4, dbl-inc x 2, sc 2 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 4, inc x 3, sc 7, inc x 3, sc 3 (26)

Round 5-6 :

sc in each st (26)

Info :

On round 7, place a stitch marker between the 17th and 18th stitch (around the loops of the 18th stitch) to mark the center of the face.

Round 7 :

sc 10, hdc-inc x 7, sc 9 (33)

Round 8 :

sc 8, inc, sc, hdc 2, (hdc-inc, hdc) x 5, hdc-inc, hdc 2, sc, inc, sc 6 (41)

Round 9 :

sc 7, inc, sc 8, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 2, sc 8, inc, sc 5 (46)

Round 10 :

sc, inc, sc 13, inc, (sc 6, inc) x 3, sc 9 (51)

Round 11 :

With brown yarn: sc 21, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 16 (53)

Round 12 :

With brown yarn: sc 2, inc, sc 24, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 22 (56)

Info :

Attach safety eyes to either side of the stitch marker, between rows 7 and 8, leaving 12 stitches (count 11 holes) between them.

Round 13-21 :

sc in each st (56)

Round 22 :

(sc 12, dec) x 4 (52)

Round 23 :

sc 5, dec, (sc 11, dec) x 3, sc 6 (48)

Info :

Start stuffing the head. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the head firmly.

Round 24 :

(sc 10, dec) x 4 (44)

Round 25 :

sc 4, dec, (sc 9, dec) x 3, sc 5 (40)

Round 26 :

(sc 8, dec) x 4 (36)

Round 27 :

sc, dec, (sc 4, dec) x 5, sc 3 (30)

Round 28 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 29 :

(dec, sc 2) x 6 (18)

Round 30 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 31 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7). Use yarn to shape the head (see page 8). Embroider the nostrils (see page 8).

— Ears (make 2) :

Round 1 :

With brown yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

sc in each st (18)

Round 7 :

(dec x 4, sc) x 2 (10)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Do not stuff the ears.

— Flower :

Round 1 :

With yellow yarn: mr, sc 6, sl st in 1st sc (6)

Round 2 :

With peach yarn: (ch 3, tr-inc, ch 3, sl st in the same st) x 6

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off.

— Right arm :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(dbl-inc x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3 :

sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (16)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st (16)

Round 6 :

sc 2, dec x 2, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (15)

Round 7 :

sc 2, dec, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (15)

Info :

Stuff the hand firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arm firmly.

Round 8 :

With brown yarn: sc, dec x 2, sc 10 (13)

Round 9 :

sc, dec, sc 10 (12)

Round 10-11 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 12 :

sc, dec, sc 9 (11)

Round 13-22 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

Attach the smaller joint between rounds 21 and 22, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 23 :

sc, dec x 5 (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing the arm. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).

— Left arm :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(dbl-inc x 2, sc) x 2 (14)

Round 3 :

sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 3 (16)

Round 4-5 :

sc in each st (16)

Round 6 :

sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec x 2, sc (15)

Round 7 :

sc 5, inc, sc 6, dec, sc (15)

Info :

Crochet one sc in next five stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Stuff the hand firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the arm firmly.

Round 8 :

With brown yarn: sc 7, dec x 2, sc 4 (13)

Round 9 :

sc 7, dec, sc 4 (12)

Round 10-11 :

sc in each st (12)

Round 12 :

sc 7, dec, sc 3 (11)

Round 13-22 :

sc in each st (11)

Info :

Attach the smaller joint between rounds 21 and 22, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 23 :

sc, dec x 5 (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing the arm. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).

— Legs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn: ch 7, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 4, 4 sc in first ch

Info :

Rotate and work on other side of beginning chain.

Round 1 (cont) :

sc 4, 2 sc in last ch (16)

Info :

Continue working in spiral.

Round 2 :

inc, sc 5, dbl-inc, sc 2, dbl-inc, sc 5, inc (22)

Round 3 :

dbl-inc, sc 7, dbl-inc, sc 4, dbl-inc, sc 8 (28)

Info :

Work round 4 in back loops only.

Round 4-5 :

With brown yarn: sc in each st (28)

Round 6 :

sc, dec, sc 25 (27)

Round 7 :

sc 4, dec, sc 5, dec x 4, sc 5, dec, sc (21)

Round 8 :

sc 8, dec x 4, sc 5 (17)

Round 9 :

sc 8, dec x 2, sc 5 (15)

Round 10 :

sc 7, dec x 2, sc 4 (13)

Info :

Stuff the feet firmly. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the legs firmly.

Round 11-17 :

sc in each st (13)

Info :

On the right leg only, sc in next six stitches. Count the last sc as the end of the round from now on.

Info :

Attach the larger joint between rounds 16 and 17, placing it so the post is facing straight towards the body (see page 9).

Round 18 :

sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (11)

Round 19 :

sc, dec x 5 (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing the leg. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail, and fasten off. Thread the tail onto a needle and use it to pick up all the remaining stitches and close the opening (see page 7).

— Body :

Round 1 :

With brown yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, sc 2) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) x 5, sc 3 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-13 :

sc in each st (42)

Info :

Turn the body so the first stitch of round 13 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to either side of the body, between rounds 8 and 9 (see page 10 - photos).

Round 14 :

(dec, sc 9, dec, sc 8) x 2 (38)

Round 15 :

sc 14, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 13 (36)

Round 16 :

sc 6, dec, (sc 10, dec) x 2, sc 4 (33)

Round 17 :

sc in each st (33)

Round 18 :

(dec, sc 9) x 3 (30)

Round 19 :

sc in each st (30)

Round 20 :

sc 5, dec, (sc 8, dec) x 2, sc 3 (27)

Round 21 :

sc in each st (27)

Round 22 :

(dec, sc 7) x 3 (24)

Round 23 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 24 :

sc 4, dec, (sc 6, dec) x 2, sc 2 (21)

Round 25 :

sc in each st (21)

Round 26 :

(dec, sc 5) x 3 (18)

Round 27 :

sc in each st (18)

Info :

Sl st in next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Attach the arms to the sides of the body, between rounds 23 and 24 (see page 10 - photos). Finish stuffing the body.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

With brown yarn: mr, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Round 3-4 :

sc in each st (9)

Info :

Start stuffing the tail. Keep adding a bit of fiberfill after every few rounds, stuffing the tail lightly.

Round 5-38 :

sc in each st (9)

Info :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing, and fasten off. Finish stuffing the tail.

— Assembling the Monkey :

Step 1 :

Turn the body so the first stitch of round 13 is at the center of the back. Attach the legs to the sides of the body between rounds 8 and 9.

Step 2 :

Attach the arms to the sides of the body between rounds 23 and 24.

Step 3 :

Place the ears to the sides of the head, just behind round 15, and sew them to the head, inserting the needle through both layers.

Step 4 :

Sew the flower to the head, making a few stitches around the center to secure it.

Step 5 :

Sew the head to the body with whip stitch, placing it so the front edge is just behind round 12 of the head (see pages 15-16 for whip stitch photos).

Step 6 :

Sew the tail to the body with whip or mattress stitch, placing it just above round 5 (see pages 15-17 for mattress stitch photos).

— Head Finishing (photo tutorial) :

Info :

a) Attach safety eyes after finishing round 12. 1. Place the eyes between rows 7 and 8 leaving 12 stitches (count 11 holes) between them. 2. Make sure you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes before pushing the washer into place.

Info :

b) Finish the head and close the opening. 1. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle. 2. Pick up all the remaining stitches onto the yarn, inserting the needle from the center and under the front loop only and draw the yarn through. 3. Grab the yarn tail and pull until the hole is tightly closed. 4. Insert the needle through the center and bring the yarn to the bottom of the head. Fasten and hide the yarn tail.

Info :

c) Use yarn to shape the head. 1. Insert the needle from the bottom of the head between rounds 14 and 15 and bring it up right next to the outer side of the eye. 2. Go about half way around the eye and insert the needle right next to the eye. Bring it to the bottom of the head. 3. Grab the yarn tails and tug gently, pulling the eye in just a bit. 4. Knot the yarn tails together. Do the same with the other eye.

Info :

d) Embroider the nostrils. 1. Embroider the nostrils, making a few small stitches between rounds 3 and 4 with dark brown embroidery floss. 2. Leave 3 - 4 stitches between the two nostrils.

— Flower Photo Steps :

Info :

1. Start with sc 6 in a magic ring. Slip stitch in first sc to close the round. 2. Switch to peach yarn and chain three. 3. Crochet two triple crochet stitches in the first stitch. 4. Chain three. Slip stitch in the same stitch. 5. Chain three. Crochet two triple crochet stitches in the next stitch. 6. Repeat steps 4 - 5 and crochet a petal in each stitch.

— Arms & Legs Photo Guidance :

Info :

a) Place the joint or a button inside the arms and legs. 1. Place the joint inside the arm or leg so the stem is facing straight towards the body. 2. Finish the arms and legs and close the opening (see page 7 images for closing instructions).

— Amigurumi Essentials :

Info :

MAGIC RING: A magic ring is a way to begin crocheting in round by crocheting the first round into an adjustable loop and then pulling the loop tight. Alternatively you can chain 2 and then crochet the first round into the second chain from hook. Steps: 1. Make a loop about 2 cm / 1" from the yarn end so the working yarn goes over the yarn tail. 2. Grab the join between your thumb and forefinger and insert the hook through the loop from front to back. 3. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through the loop on the hook. 4. Pull the yarn tight. This does not count as the first stitch. 5. Hold the loop between your thumb and forefinger. Insert the hook through the loop from front to back. 6. Draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook, completing the first sc. 7. Continue crocheting through the loop and over the yarn tail until you have the required number of sc-s. 8. Hold the last stitch between your fingers, grab the yarn and pull ... 9. ... until the center is tightly closed.

Info :

STARTING AN OVAL WITH A CHAIN: Use a chain as a base for an oval piece by crocheting the first row around the starting chain. Example: 1: ch 6, 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc 3, 4 sc in first ch. Rotate and work into the chain from the other side: sc 3, 2 sc in last ch (16). Steps illustrated: 1. Chain six. This will be the base for the first round. 2. Insert the hook into the second chain from hook. 3. Crochet two single crochet stitches into this chain. 4. Crochet one single crochet stitch in next three chains. 5. Crochet four single crochet stitches in the first chain. 6. Rotate and work into the chain stitches from the other side. 7. Crochet one single crochet stitch in next three chains. 8. Crochet two single crochet stitches in the last chain (total of four stitches in this stitch). 9. Insert the hook in the first stitch to join the round or start a new round when crocheting in spiral.

Info :

CHANGING YARNS: A quick and easy, but clean way to change yarns when working in single crochet stitch. 1. Stop before the last step of the last single crochet stitch with the "old" yarn. 2. Tie the "new" yarn around the "old" yarn and push the knot close to the piece. 3. Cut the "old" yarn and knot the two yarn tails together. 4. Yarn over with the new yarn. 5. And draw through both loops on the hook, completing the single crochet stitch. 6. And then continue crocheting with the "new" yarn.

Info :

INVISIBLE SINGLE CROCHET DECREASE: Pick up the front loops of both stitches and crochet one single crochet stitch into the loops. Alternatively you can replace it with a regular single crochet decrease. Steps: 1. Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. 2. Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the hook. 3. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. Yarn over ... 4. ... and draw through both loops on the hook, completing the single crochet stitch.

Info :

FINISHING AN OPEN PIECE: 1. Finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next stitch. 2. Cut the yarn and fasten off. 3. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back. 4. Draw the yarn tail through. If you want to use the yarn tail for sewing, stop here. 5. Go through the next stitch, back to front. 6. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it inside the piece. 7. Insert your hook through the next stitch, front to back. 8. And draw the yarn tail through. Now you can hide it inside the piece.

Info :

SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH WHIP STITCH: When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off. Steps: 1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch. 2. Draw the stitch tight. 3. Go through the next stitch front to back, inserting the needle under both loops. 4. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the stitch tight. 5. Or you can go through the stitch back to front, inserting the needle under both loops. 6. Draw the yarn through. 7. Go back into the same hole you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch. Draw the stitch tight. 8. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 - 4 or 5 - 7 and go all around the open piece. 9. Keep stitching, repeating steps 3 - 4 or 5 - 7 and go all around the open piece.

Info :

SEWING AN OPEN PIECE TO A CLOSED PIECE WITH MATTRESS STITCH: When you finish the open piece, leave a long yarn tail for sewing, and then fasten off. Steps: 1. Thread the yarn tail onto a needle. Insert the needle below the yarn tail and bring it up under the next stitch. 2. Draw the yarn through. 3. Insert the needle under the vertical bar of the next stitch. 4. Draw the yarn through. 5. Go back in the same hole where you brought the yarn up last time and bring it up under the next stitch. 6. Draw the yarn through. 7. Keep repeating steps 3 - 6. 8. Make a couple of stitches. Then grab the yarn tail and draw the stitches as tight as you can. 9. Go around the open piece, drawing the yarn tight after every couple of stitches.

Info :

FASTENING AND HIDING YARN TAILS: The quickest way to hide yarn tails is to just weave it through the stuffing a couple of times, going in different directions. But if you want to make it extra secure, you can tie the yarn around one of the loops of a stitch and then hide it inside the piece. Steps: 1. Bring the yarn up through a hole in the fabric. 2. Insert the needle under one loop of a stitch right next to the hole. 3. Pull until you have a small loop. 4. Knot the loop and yarn together, making a double knot. Do not push the first knot too close to the fabric. 5. Cut off the loop end. 6. Insert the needle into the same hole, going up and through the piece. 7. Pull lightly until the knot disappears into the fabric. 8. Cut off the yarn close to the fabric. 9. Yarn tail will completely disappear into the fabric.

Assembly Instructions

  • Turn the body so the first stitch of round 13 is at the center of the back, then attach the legs to either side of the body between rounds 8 and 9 using the tail ends and secure with whip stitch.
  • Attach the arms to the sides of the body between rounds 23 and 24, aligning the smaller joints between rounds 21 and 22 so the posts face straight toward the body.
  • Sew the ears to the head just behind round 15, inserting the needle through both layers for a secure attachment and using the long yarn tail to hide ends.
  • Sew the flower to the head with a few stitches around its center, leaving the stitch secure and hiding the yarn tail inside the head.
  • Sew the head to the body with whip stitch, placing the front edge just behind round 12 of the head and closing securely (refer to whip stitch photo tutorial).
  • Sew the tail to the body with whip or mattress stitch, positioning it just above round 5 and securing the tail neatly inside the body.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds or turn your work unless instructed otherwise in the pattern.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the end or the beginning of a round so you can keep your place when working in spiral.
  • 💡Work all stitches into both loops unless instructed otherwise (for example, certain rounds are worked in back loops only).
  • 💡Add stuffing gradually—after every few rounds—to avoid overstuffing or creating lumps and to keep the shape smooth.

This Lucy the Monkey pattern is a delightful intermediate amigurumi project that creates a 22 cm cuddly friend with sweet facial shaping and a tiny flower accessory. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, photo tutorials for finishing, and clear assembly guidance to help you sew everything together with confidence. Whether you make her for a child or as a thoughtful gift, she brings charm and handmade warmth to any home. 🧶🐵

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 22 cm (8 2/3") when crocheted with the recommended sport weight cotton-acrylic blend and a 2.50 mm crochet hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and look. Use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn and expect the finished monkey to be larger or smaller depending on yarn thickness.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and uses techniques like working in spiral, invisible decreases, color changes, and attaching joints, so basic crochet skills and some experience with amigurumi are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, customization, and assembly details.

What kind of joints or attachments are recommended for the limbs?

Plastic doll joints (two 20 mm and two 15 mm) are recommended for posable limbs, but you can also use safety eyes, cotter pin joints, buttons and thread, or simply sew the limbs in place for a non-posable finish.

How do I attach the eyes and embroider the nostrils?

Attach safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8 leaving 12 stitches between them; then secure washers. Embroider nostrils using dark brown embroidery floss between rounds 3 and 4, leaving 3-4 stitches between them.