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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
3.9β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern shows you how to make the Mimosa Baby amigurumi, a charming crochet doll with detailed embroidered eyes and shaped limbs. It includes full round-by-round instructions for the head, arms, legs, feet and facial embroidery. The design uses simple amigurumi shaping with extra guidance for eye and lip embroidery techniques.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will find materials, abbreviations and stepwise photos explained for accurate placement and finishing. The result is a roughly 35cm tall doll when using the recommended yarn and tension.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with detailed facial embroidery that brings the doll to life. I enjoy the eye-processing steps the most β€” they create a striking, expressive gaze that feels professional. The pattern taught me how small stitch changes and consistent filling transform the body shape, which is so satisfying. I am passionate about sharing methods that help you achieve clean finishes and unique character through simple embroidery touches.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with colors on this pattern: try pastel palettes for a softer nursery look or bold colors for a playful, modern doll.

I often change yarn weight and hook size to create a smaller keychain version or a larger cuddle-sized doll; just be consistent with your tension and stuffing.

I sometimes swap the embroidered eyes for safety eyes if making the doll for older children; make sure to adjust placement and back them securely.

I enjoy adding tiny crocheted accessories like hats, purses or scarves to give the doll more personality and styling options.

For hair variations, try using boucle yarn for textured hair or embroidery for shorter hair looks; you can also make braids or buns easily from the provided hair recipe.

I recommend trying different eyebrow and lip shapes to alter the expression; small shifts in placement can make your doll look surprised, sleepy or joyful.

If you want a posable doll, insert wire into the arms and neck as suggested and wrap ends carefully before closing to avoid poking through the stitches.

I sometimes add felt or fabric clothing rather than crocheting outfits to speed up finishing and provide swap-able wardrobes for play.

To stylize sneakers or shoes, change the shoe color and add small embroidered laces or buttons to match the outfit details.

When you make multiples, try slight changes in eye color, hair style or blush intensity to create a family of unique but related dolls.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping the slip stitch closing on limbs; always finish limbs with sl st to close the opening and secure your final rounds to prevent unraveling. βœ— Not marking the start of the head rounds; place a marker at the beginning of each round to keep eye placement and shaping accurate as you progress. βœ— Overstuffing or uneven stuffing which distorts the doll shape; stuff gradually every 4-6 rows and shape evenly to maintain proportions. βœ— Rushing the eye embroidery can lead to uneven pupils; follow the multi-stage basting and filling process step by step and mirror the placement on both eyes before finalizing. βœ— Forgetting to separate yarn layers for small embroidered features; separate threads into layers for nose and lips to create subtle, realistic shapes and better control.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own Mimosa Baby amigurumi with this detailed crochet recipe. You will create a sweet, poseable doll with embroidered eyes, shaped legs and arms, and a removable dress and hat. Clear step-by-step rounds, eye embroidery guidance and finishing notes help you achieve a polished, professional look. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a handmade keepsake.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces (main body)
  • 02
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton white 13 - 1 piece (socks and shirt)
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - 1 ball (shoe accents)
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - 1 ball (dress)
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422 - 1 ball (dress details)
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - 1 ball (hair or accent)
  • 07
    Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair - 2 skeins (hair)
  • 08
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 light blue K0028 - small amount (eye details)
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 dark blue K00147 - small amount (eye iris)
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 brown K0035 - small amount (details)
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 white - small amount (eye whites)
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 black - small amount (pupil outline)
  • 13
    Γ–renbayan Cotton Perle pink 465 - small amount (lip embroidery)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook 2.20 mm
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer (for shaping and stuffing)
  • 04
    Bead fiber or polyester stuffing
  • 05
    3 x 8mm white buttons (for back of the t-shirt)
  • 06
    1 x 8mm purple button (for back of the dress)
  • 07
    7 x 6mm white buttons (for front of the dress)
  • 08
    Etamine sewing needle, tapestry/quilting needle for eye embroidery
  • 09
    Pacifier chain rope / parachute rope half meter (shoelaces)
  • 10
    70 cm 2.5mm electrical wire (to place inside neck and arms for stability/pose)
  • 11
    Paper rope dark straw (bag/prop)
  • 12
    Dry crayon (for makeup and aging)
  • 13
    Pins for marking eye and lip positions

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

Start with skin color. 6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

6v (12)

Round 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Round 13-27 :

72x (15 rows)

Info :

Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Eye Processing :

Info :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

There are 11 sc between the points we marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be zoomed in and out optionally.

Info :

The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches.

Info :

Eye processing youtube link: https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

Info :

1- Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

Info :

2- Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Info :

If you could not provide an oval image to the pupil as in the image, try to get the correct shape by sinking around it a few times. Process the other pupil in the same way.

Info :

3- Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

Info :

4- Process one more round into the iris.

Info :

5- Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Info :

6- With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

Info :

7- To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top.

Info :

8- Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

Info :

9- Do one more round in the same way.

Info :

10- Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

Info :

11- A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. Process the other eye in the same way.

Info :

Lash bottom line: one- Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches. Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye.

Info :

Eyelash: one- Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash. 2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Info :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Head Continued :

Round 28-30 :

(3 rows):72x

Round 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Round 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Round 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Round 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Round 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

You fill the head.

Round 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Round 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Round 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Round 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

Head done, cut the rope.

β€” Nose :

Info :

It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

β€” Eyebrow :

Info :

Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

β€” Lips :

Info :

Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. LIP PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

Round 1 :

1st round: Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6 -7 times.

Round 2 :

2nd round: In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

Info :

Lip line: Make the lip line by following the images. Submerge by skipping one single needle on the sides.

β€” Arm :

Round 1 :

Start with skin color. 6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Round 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Round 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Round 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Round 6-8 :

(3 rows):15x (15)

Round 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Round 10 :

11x (12)

Round 11-36 :

(26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread.

Info :

The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” Foot Recipe :

Round 1 :

Start with tan yarn. Row1:9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Round 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Round 3-10 :

(8 rows):20x

Round 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Round 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Round 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Round 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope.

Info :

Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” Leg Recipe (Left leg) :

Info :

MUST READ! Right and left leg nomenclature: represents the right and left legs of the baby. If this is not taken care of, the legs may fall out. The recipe is the same until the knee cap on the right and left legs; The fact that the calf of the right leg protrudes to the right and the calf of the left leg to the left is completely related to the filling. While filling, try to obtain the form in the visuals by checking the image by putting the leg a little farther.

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Round 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

26x

Round 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

27x

Round 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Round 46 :

28x

Round 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

β€” Right leg recipe :

Info :

When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Round 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Round 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

17x

Round 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

18x

Round 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

20x

Round 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

21x

Round 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

22x

Round 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Round 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

21x

Round 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Round 28 :

22x

Round 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

20x

Round 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

21x

Round 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

23x

Round 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

24x

Round 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

25x

Round 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

26x

Round 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

27x

Round 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Round 46 :

28x

Round 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Right leg done.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place the head eye-center between rounds 21 and 22 and mark midpoints before embroidery; align pupils by counting the 6 sc to the right and 5 sc to the left for symmetrical eyes.
  • Insert 70cm 2.5mm electrical wire into neck and arms before closing the top rounds, then secure and shape the neck by sewing the head to the torso opening for added stability and poseability.
  • Attach arms to the body by positioning them on either side at the recommended torso rows (match arm top opening to body's armhole rows), sew securely using a whipstitch and hide the yarn tail inside the body.
  • Sew the legs to the lower body base matching the right and left leg orientation; ensure that the protruding calves align with filling directions (left leg filled left, right leg filled right) for the correct posture.
  • Pin facial features (nose, lips, eyebrows) in place before final sewing; embroider the nose and lip triangle following the steps, then secure and hide all ends inside the head.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘After the row that ends with sl st, when you rise by pulling 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and make x or DC, dip into the loop at the bottom of the chain to maintain even edges.
  • πŸ’‘When the leg and arm are finished, sl st is done to close them; when working on a finished piece, treat these sl sts as frequent needles and work frequent needles on them for attachment.
  • πŸ’‘Carry the threads broken at the end of the row and attach them to remove the loop while knitting the row to achieve a neat appearance.
  • πŸ’‘Fill the pieces you have knitted every 5-6 rows for even shaping and pay attention to homogeneous filling; overfilling or underfilling affects final shape and dress length.

This Mimosa Baby pattern is made to become a treasured handmade companion with expressive embroidered eyes and thoughtful shaping. The step-by-step eye processing and clear rounds will guide you to a beautiful finish. Stitch, embroider, and style a sweet pocket of handmade joy to give or keep. 🧡🧸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures around 30-35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes and matching the pattern tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but your finished size will change. Adjust hook size accordingly and check gauge; heavier yarn increases size and lighter yarn decreases it.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; you should be comfortable with amigurumi basics, increases, decreases, and reading rounds. The eye embroidery requires attention and some embroidery experience helps.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters will complete this Multi-Day Project in around 12-15 hours total, though the timeframe varies with experience and the detail you add to embroidery and finishing.