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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
4.4β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a detailed Mimosa Baby amigurumi with embroidered facial features and assembled limbs. You will shape the head, embroider realistic eyes, and crochet the body, arms, feet and legs following complete round-by-round instructions. The design includes tips for filling, shaping and finishing for a polished handmade doll.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed eye processing steps and clear illustrations help you create expressive eyes and lashes. The pattern includes full materials and tool lists so you can gather everything before you start.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with beautiful embroidered eyes that bring the doll to life. I enjoy the careful step-by-step eye processing β€” it creates a realistic and expressive face that always delights. The shaping instructions are thoughtful and allow you to control stuffing and form, which I find gives the best results. I love how the finished Mimosa Baby feels balanced and poseable once the internal wire and assembly are added.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how flexible this pattern is for customization; you can change colors to create different outfits or themes for your Mimosa Baby.

I often make a mini version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook to create keychains or tiny decorations.

I also experiment with hair styles β€” try using different yarn textures or adding bangs and braids for varied looks.

I sometimes swap the embroidered eye colors (dark blue to brown or green) to change the doll's personality.

I add felt accessories or tiny crocheted props like purses and hats for personality and play value.

I recommend trying different stuffing amounts to alter the firmness and poseability of the limbs.

I like adding wire into the neck and arms for posability; use insulated wire and wrap it carefully before inserting.

For a softer look, use pastel yarns and lighter embroidery contrast; for a bold look, use saturated colors and thicker perle thread for eyes.

I sometimes add a tiny blush with dry crayon to the cheeks and shading around the eyes to add realism.

If you want to change the size, adjust hook and yarn weight and test gauge on the head to keep eye embroidery proportionate.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during round increases can cause misaligned shaping; place a marker at the start of each round to keep track of row heads and increases. βœ— Not filling pieces regularly leads to uneven legs and body shapes; fill the pieces every 5-6 rows and shape progressively for a smooth finish. βœ— Pulling embroidery thread too tight when processing the eyes will distort the crochet surface; use moderate tension and test each pass to maintain a rounded shape. βœ— Forgetting to separate yarn layers for nose embroidery will create a bulky nose; separate the yarn into thin layers and make 4-5 shallow sinks as instructed for a natural look.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Create an adorable Mimosa Baby amigurumi with step-by-step crochet and embroidery instructions. This pattern guides you through head shaping, detailed eye embroidery, limbs, and finishing touches so you can craft a charming, poseable doll. Perfect for crafters who love a mix of crochet and decorative hand embroidery. Follow the full recipe to make a 35cm height baby with professional-looking details.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    2 pieces of Peria Baby Soft Cotton, skin color 17
  • 02
    1 piece of Peria Baby Soft Cotton, white 13
  • 03
    1 Schachenmayr Catania green 419
  • 04
    1 Schachenmayr Catania purple 240
  • 05
    1 Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422
  • 06
    1 Trade Diva 55
  • 07
    Paper rope, dark straw (for accessories)
  • 08
    2 x Viburnum Etamine 840 for hair
  • 09
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 light blue K0028
  • 10
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 dark blue K00147
  • 11
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 brown K0035
  • 12
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 white
  • 13
    Domino Cotton Perle 8 black
  • 14
    Orenbayan Cotton Perle pink 465
  • 15
    3 8mm white buttons for the back of the t-shirt
  • 16
    1 8mm purple button for the back of the dress
  • 17
    7 6mm white buttons for the front of the dress
  • 18
    Pacifier chain rope / parachute rope half meter for shoelaces
  • 19
    70 cm 2.5mm electrical wire to put on neck and arms
  • 20
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.20 mm
  • 03
    2.5 size skewer
  • 04
    Bead fiber (stuffing)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 07
    Etamine needle for sewing
  • 08
    Quilt needle for eye embroidery
  • 09
    Pins for positioning
  • 10
    Stitch markers
  • 11
    Electrical wire 2.5mm (70 cm) for posable neck and arms

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Row 2 :

6v (12)

Row 3 :

(x,v)*6 (18)

Row 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Row 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Row 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Row 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Row 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Row 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Row 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Row 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Row 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Rows 13-27 :

(15 rows):72x

Info :

Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Eye Processing :

Info :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Info :

There are 11 sc between the points we marked to process the pupils. Eye distance can be zoomed in and out optionally.

Info :

The concept of tour will be used when processing the eye. The tour consists of two stages. In the first stage, basting is done by sinking into the folds of the frequent needles. In the second stage, the round is completed by going through all the basting stitches.

Info :

Eye processing Youtube link: https://youtu.be/UUQV31Uj2nk

1 :

Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

2 :

Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Info :

If you could not provide an oval image to the pupil as in the image, try to get the correct shape by sinking around it a few times. Process the other pupil in the same way.

3 :

Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

4 :

Process one more round into the iris.

5 :

Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

6 :

With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

7 :

To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top. Take care to draw in the same way, taking into account the drawings in the image.

8 :

Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

9 :

Do one more round in the same way.

10 :

Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

11 :

A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. Process the other eye in the same way.

Info :

Lash bottom line: Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches.

Info :

Do one more round, starting from the top row of the lower lash line and up to the corner of the eye.

Info :

Eyelash: Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash.

Info :

Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Info :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Rows 28-30 :

(3 rows):72x

Row 31 :

2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Row 32 :

5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Row 33 :

(8x,a)*6 (54)

Row 34 :

2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Row 35 :

5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Row 38 :

2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Row 39 :

(4x,a)*6 (30)

Row 40 :

(3x,a)*6 (24)

Row 41 :

(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

Head done, cut the rope.

β€” Nose :

Info :

It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

β€” Eyebrow :

Info :

Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

β€” Lips :

Info :

Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. Lip processing Youtube link: https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

1st round :

Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6 -7 times.

2nd round :

In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

Info :

Lip line: Make the lip line by following the images. Submerge by skipping one single needle on the sides.

β€” ARM :

Info :

Start with skin color.

Row 1 :

6x into the magic ring

Row 2 :

2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Row 3 :

2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Row 4 :

3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Row 5 :

4x, v, 9x (15)

Rows 6-8 :

(3 rows):15x (15)

Row 9 :

4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Row 10 :

11x (12)

Rows 11-36 :

(26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread.

Info :

The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” FOOT RECIPE :

Info :

Start with tan yarn. The two feet will be knitted with the same recipe and the right and left legs will be continued with separate recipes.

Row 1 :

9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Row 2 :

v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Rows 3-10 :

(8 rows):20x

Row 11 :

3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Row 12 :

3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Info :

It will continue with the heel part.

Row 13 :

(x,a)*6 (12)

Row 14 :

6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope.

Info :

Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” LEG RECIPE :

Info :

MUST READ! Right and left leg nomenclature: represents the right and left legs of the baby. If this is not taken care of, the legs may fall out. The recipe is the same until the knee cap on the right and left legs; The fact that the calf of the right leg protrudes to the right and the calf of the left leg to the left is completely related to the filling. While filling, try to obtain the form in the visuals by checking the image by putting the leg a little farther.

β€” Left leg recipe :

Info :

While filling, the left foot and leg should always be filled to the left of the leg, creating a protruding image on the calf and carefully filling. If the filling in the feet and legs is not done carefully and regularly, the distorted and protruding appearance of the heels, calves and knees may not be available.

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Info :

This will be the top of the line.

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Info :

Fill without disturbing the form of the foot. Fill the wrist. (Pay attention to the pre-written tips in leg filling.)

Rows 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Rows 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Info :

The side indicated by the arrow should be filled more oval and the other side should be left more vertical. More filling should be done on the arrow side.

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 5x, 4v, 3x (22)

Info :

The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe.

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

11x, 4a, 3x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

6x, v, x, v, 12x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Row 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Row 41 :

26x

Row 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Row 43 :

27x

Row 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Row 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Row 46 :

28x

Row 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

β€” Right leg recipe :

Info :

When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Row 1 :

We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Row 2 :

4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Rows 3-6 :

(4 rows):16x

Info :

Fill the wrist. When we turn the toe to ourselves, the left part of the right leg will be the calf (blue arrow side) and this side will be protruded. Always add more filling to the protruding part. Keep the leg away and check the image frequently. Proceed by making a filling in 4-5 rows.

Row 7 :

v, 15x (17)

Row 8 :

17x

Row 9 :

x, v, 15x (18)

Row 10 :

18x

Row 11 :

2x, v, 15x (19)

Row 12 :

3x, v, 15x (20)

Row 13 :

20x

Row 14 :

4x, v, 15x (21)

Row 15 :

21x

Row 16 :

5x, v, 15x (22)

Row 17 :

22x

Row 18 :

6x, v, 15x (23)

Rows 19-23 :

(5 rows):23x

Row 24 :

5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Row 25 :

21x

Row 26 :

4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Row 27 :

5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Row 28 :

22x

Row 29 :

13x, 4a, x (18)

Row 30 :

4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Row 31 :

20x

Row 32 :

6x, v, 13x (21)

Row 33 :

21x

Row 34 :

7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Row 35 :

23x

Row 36 :

8x, v, 14x (24)

Row 37 :

24x

Row 38 :

9x, v, 14x (25)

Row 39 :

25x

Row 40 :

10x, v, 14x (26)

Row 41 :

26x

Row 42 :

11x, v, 14x (27)

Row 43 :

27x

Row 44 :

12x, v, 14x (28)

Row 45 :

4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28)

Row 46 :

28x

Row 47 :

4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Right leg done.

Assembly Instructions

  • Place markers between the 21st and 22nd head rows to align and embroider eyes before continuing with head shaping; after eye embroidery is finished, continue knitting rows 28-30 and onward.
  • Attach head to body after body is completed by sewing the head opening to the neck opening, using the long tail left when finishing the head and stitch evenly around the seam.
  • Position arms on either side of the body aligning to the arm join rounds (use photo references), sew securely with a yarn needle and weave in ends; arms are not stuffed.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them evenly and ensuring the right and left legs are oriented correctly (fill left leg to the left and right leg to the right to create natural calf shaping).
  • Attach hair, clothing details, buttons and accessories (paper rope strap, buttons on dress and t-shirt) after all sewing and finishing to avoid interference during assembly.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘After the row that ends with sl st, when rising by pulling 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and making x or DC, dip first into the loop at the bottom of the chain as noted.
  • πŸ’‘When leg and arm are finished, sl st is done to close them; when knitting on the finished piece, treat these sl sts as frequent needles and continue knitting on them.
  • πŸ’‘Fill the pieces you have knitted in 5-6 rows and pay attention to homogeneous filling to keep shapes consistent.

This Mimosa Baby Amigurumi pattern guides you from the very first magic ring to the final embroidered lashes and outfit details. The step-by-step eye processing creates expressive, realistic eyes that make this doll truly special. Enjoy the assembly tips and finishing notes to create a polished handmade companion. 🧢🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi is approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns, hook sizes, and filling techniques as described in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and facial embroidery scale; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and adjust filling accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate due to precise shaping and detailed eye embroidery; basic crochet and some sewing/embroidery experience are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete this project over several sessions; estimated time is 12-15 hours depending on experience and how detailed you make the embroidery and finishing.