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Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern

Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern
4.1β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern

This Reindeer Holiday Table Runner features a warm cream lattice base with three centered reindeer applique9s spaced evenly along the length. Each reindeer has a textured tan head, red puff nose, embroidered brown antlers, small black bead eyes, plus holly leaves and berries placed between the faces. The scalloped border alternates red poinsettia clusters with green edging for classic holiday contrast.

Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Construction combines small circular applique9 pieces attached to a long rectangular base made from repeated shell clusters. The border is worked last in contrasting colors to frame the runner and make the motifs pop.

Why You'll Love This Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends simple stitches into a warm, nostalgic holiday centerpiece with delightful details. The little reindeer faces add personality and charm, while the scalloped poinsettia border gives professional polish. I find the modular construction satisfying β€” work a few rounds of the base, then make a reindeer, and watch the runner come to life stitch by stitch.

Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this runner invites so many personalization options while staying approachable; you can change the reindeer expression, swap colors for different holidays, or create a monotone elegant runner by using one accent color. I often switch the red for deep burgundy or bright coral for different table settings.

I also enjoy improvising the border: try a scallop-only finish for a subtler edge or make larger poinsettia shells for a bolder look. For a child-safe version, embroider eyes and omit beads entirely. Use thicker yarn and a larger hook to make a chunky runner that feels extra cozy under centerpieces.

When gifting, I like adding a small matching coaster or napkin ring using leftover yarn. You can also replace the reindeer heads with snowmen, elves or simple heart applique9s to adapt the pattern for other seasons. Have fun and make it yours!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at the beginning of each round or row can shift the pattern and misplace reindeer motifs; always mark the start. βœ— Using yarn that is too loosely spun or a hook that is too large will create holes and floppy motifs; keep tension even and slightly tight for amigurumi-style applique9s. βœ— Attaching applique9 pieces before blocking the base can produce puckering; block the runner pieces flat before sewing for smooth joins. βœ— Not counting stitches on the base panel causes scallops and motifs to drift; recount after each set of repeats to maintain consistent spacing. βœ— Neglecting to weave in ends securely under several stitches leads to loose details later; weave through 4-6 cm/1.5-2 in of fabric and knot discreetly if needed. βœ— Overstuffing small applique9 pieces like the nose puff makes them bulky and hard to sew flat; use minimal stuffing or make the nose as a tightly worked circle.

Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern

Create a festive vintage-style table runner featuring three adorable reindeer motifs, scalloped poinsettia edges, and a warm cream background. This pattern uses simple cluster and shell stitches to build an elegant rectangular runner, with detailed applique9 reindeer faces, antlers, holly leaves and berries. Perfect for holiday decor on dining or side tables, the runner combines texture and color contrast for a charming handmade centerpiece.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Reindeer Holiday Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 300-350g in cream (main background color)
  • 02
    70-80g in tan/light brown for reindeer heads and ears
  • 03
    30-40g in dark brown for antlers and accents
  • 04
    40-50g in festive red for noses and border poinsettias
  • 05
    40-50g in forest green for leaves and scallop edging
  • 06
    Small amounts (10g each) of black for eyes or embroidery thread for details, and white pearls or beads for center highlights

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5mm (7) crochet hook for main fabric (adjust if your tension differs)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for tighter applique9 pieces (nose, ears) (optional)
  • 03
    6mm black safety eyes or 6-8mm black beads for eyes (optional)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount) for nose puffs
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark row/round starts and motif placement
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Blocking pins and mat for flattening motifs before assembly
  • 09
    Optional: small amount of fabric glue to secure beads (use sparingly)

Progress Tracker

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β€” Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for size but affects finished density. With 4.5mm hook and worsted yarn, 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) swatch of cluster/shell stitch should be approximately 12 clusters across and 10 rows. Adjust hook to reach a firm fabric that hides stuffing in applique9 pieces.

β€” Overview :

Info :

This runner is constructed by first making a central rectangular panel with repeated shell/cluster stitch rows to form the cream background. Three reindeer heads, holly motifs and red nose puffs are crocheted separately as applique9s then sewn onto the surface. Finally, a three-color scalloped border is worked around the entire edge to frame the runner.

β€” Central Base Panel (Make 1 long panel) :

Round 1 :

Ch 86. (this is foundation chain for a long runner β€” adjust chain multiple of 6 plus 2 for turning)

Round 2 :

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as dc+ch2), *ch2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across until 3 ch remain, dc in last ch. Turn. (approx 28 dc clusters across - stitch counts vary by spacing)

Info :

These first two rows set up the shell/cluster lattice. Keep the turning chains consistent; treat the beginning chs as the first dc when counting. This establishes the mesh used throughout the central panel.

Round 3 :

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), *in ch-2 sp work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) (shell), skip next dc (from previous row), dc in next dc; rep from * across to last dc, dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (Repeatable lattice strip)

Round 4 :

Row 3: Ch 3, *in next ch-2 sp shell (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc), dc in next dc; rep across; dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Round 5-8 :

Repeat Row 3. (Establish 6 rows of shell lattice; the runner will be built by repeating this shell row many times β€” each set creates a visible scalloped diamond cluster)

Info :

Place stitch markers at the midpoints of the panel after Round 8 to mark the positions where the three reindeer will be attached later. Measure and mark evenly spaced centers (approximately at 1/6, 1/2 and 5/6 along the length). Use pins or removable markers for accuracy.

Round 9 :

Row 7: Change to cream if not already. Work in established pattern but begin counting repeats to reach desired panel length. Ch 3, *shell in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; rep across. Turn.

Round 10-24 :

Repeat Row 9. (Continue for 15 rows total after initial set, or until panel reaches approximate length of 85-90cm/33-35in depending on your chain length and desired spacing. These rows form the main body; maintain consistent stitch placement.)

Info :

At this stage, stop and lay the panel flat. Count rows between the markers established earlier. You should have three clearly separated zones for applique9. If needed, add or subtract a few shell rows to center the motifs exactly where you want them.

Round 25 :

Row 25: Work as Row 9 but place a small loop (ch3) in the exact center shell where each reindeer will be attached β€” this serves as a guiding point for centering the applique9 head later. Continue across full row. Turn.

Round 26-40 :

Repeat Row 9 for 15 more rows to complete panel body. Fasten off at end of final row and weave in ends. Block the panel flat to set the stitch pattern and even out tension. This completes the central base panel.

Info :

Blocking the panel after finishing the base helps flatten the lattice and makes applique9 placement easier. Use steam blocking or wet blocking depending on your yarn's fiber content. Allow to dry fully.

β€” Reindeer Head Applique9 (Make 3) :

Round 1 :

With tan/light brown, MR, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

At this size the round forms the base of the head. We'll add a slightly darker tan muzzle overlay later using a smaller circle. Keep tension even so the circle lays flat when placed on the panel.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st around (36) β€” maintain round marker to keep count accurate

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (36)

Round 9 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) β€” begin gentle shaping at top back of head so applique9 doesn't look perfectly flat when sewn

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Info :

Lightly stuff the center of the head with a small amount of fiberfill to create slight dimension. Because this is an applique9 sewn flat to the runner, use minimal stuffing β€” just enough to lift the nose slightly from the surface.

Round 12 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave the final tail through remaining stitches and pull closed slightly if needed to shape the lower curve where it will meet the muzzle overlay.

Info :

If you prefer a flatter head appearance, omit stuffing and keep rounds 12-13 minimal; the applique will lie flat. If you want more dimension, add one extra round of sc before dec rounds and add slightly more stuffing.

β€” Reindeer Muzzle (Make 3) :

Round 1 :

With a slightly darker tan (or same tan for subtle look), MR, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving 15-20cm tail for sewing. Flatten lightly and position centered on the lower half of the head circle so that top of muzzle sits about two thirds up from the lower edge; sew around with mattress or whip stitch.

Info :

Positioning: Place muzzle so lower edge aligns with lower center of head; when sewn, the muzzle creates the face plane and a base for the nose puff. Use pins to secure while sewing for symmetry.

β€” Nose Puff (Make 3) :

Round 1 :

With red, MR, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st around (24)

Round 6 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Lightly stuff with a tiny amount of fiberfill to create a round puff. Sew to center of muzzle, anchoring securely with several passes of the yarn needle through the base and head to prevent flopping.

Info :

If you prefer a less dimensional nose, make only 2 rounds (6 then 12) and sew flat. The puff shown in the photos is slightly raised to catch light and add playful character.

β€” Eyes & Highlights (Make 3 pairs) :

Round 1 :

Use 6mm safety eyes or small beads. If using safety eyes, position both eyes approximately 3-4 stitches above the muzzle's top edge and about 6 stitches apart (center-to-center) for the look in photos; secure with washers.

Round 2 :

For embroidered eyes: with black yarn, use satin stitch or french knot to create a small rounded eye. Add a small white French knot at the top-right of each eye for highlight using white yarn or a small bead sewn on after assembly.

Info :

Place eyes before sewing muzzle and nose if using safety eyes, so you can lock the washers while the face is flat. For sewn beads ensure they are firmly anchored and knot secured on the wrong side with a dab of fabric glue if desired.

β€” Ears (Make 6; 2 per head) :

Round 1 :

With tan, MR, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Working FLO for a slightly cupped ear, 1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 5 :

Dec shaping at base: (2 sc, dec) x 4 + 2 sc (14) β€” this gives a slightly pointed ear shape

Round 6 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Fold ear slightly along center and sew to head at approximately rounds 4-5 on either side to create a lively expression.

Info :

Pin each ear into position before sewing. Angle slightly forward so they read clearly from above when attached to the runner surface.

β€” Antlers (Make 6; 2 per head) :

Round 1 :

With dark brown, ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7 (7) β€” this is main antler stem

Round 2 :

Turn, ch1, sc across 7 (7)

Round 3 :

Fold and sc through both layers across first 2 sts to form small branch point, ch1, sc next 2, ch1, sc last 3. Shape branches by adding small picots: at selected places ch3, sl st into base to create a rounded bud

Round 4 :

Fasten off leaving tail. Pin antler to head aligning base at top center back of head, arrange two branches symmetrically. Sew along base securely with mattress stitch; add extra stitches through the panel for stability.

Info :

The antler construction here is intentionally simple: a flat stem with tiny picot branches. If you prefer three-dimensional antlers, crochet a thicker stem using two-strand crochet or work in rounds (MR, sc6, inc rounds) and then shape branches with short chains and sl sts.

β€” Holly Leaves & Berries (Make 3 small holly clusters) :

Round 1 :

With green, ch 6. In 2nd ch from hook: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) across to form a single leaf. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Make two leaves per cluster.

Round 2 :

With red, MR, 6 sc in MR (6) for berry; fasten off leaving tail to sew between two leaves. Alternatively, make 2-3 small puff or popcorn stitches for berry cluster in the panel body.

Info :

Holly clusters are purely decorative and are sewn into the lattice spaces between reindeer faces as shown in the picture. Place one cluster beneath each reindeer, centered on the vertical axis of the head for cohesive composition.

β€” Border: Poinsettia Scallops (Work all around edge) :

Round 1 :

With cream, pick up at any corner and join with sl st. Work 1 round of sc evenly around edge to create a base for scallops. Place 3 sc in each outer shell valley to maintain a consistent edge. Join and do not fasten off.

Round 2 :

Switch to red: *ch3, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in next sp to form poinsettia petal shell, sl st into next sp to anchor; rep from * around for each scallop position that aligns with base shells. On corners work an extra shell for smooth turning. Join with sl st.

Info :

The red shells create the poinsettia look. Space them so each shell aligns with a cream shell peak on the panel for repeating scallops. Adjust number of shells per side to make scallops sit evenly; you may need to add or remove sc foundation stitches from Round 1 earlier if spacing looks off.

Round 3 :

With green, join in back loops of the base near each red shell, ch1, sc around the outer edge of each red shell to create a green halo. For a raised edge, work 2-3 sc in each dc of the red shell's outer round, then join and continue around. This creates the dark green border outline in the photos.

Round 4 :

With cream, work a final picot or sc edging: *sc into next st, ch3, sl st into the 3rd ch to make a picot; rep around to create the tiny white loops visible between green scallops in the images. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Info :

Work border slowly and pin the runner to a blocking board as you go to ensure scallops are even and flat. The green halo will sit behind the red petals to make the flowers pop; use slightly smaller tension in the green round for a neat finish.

β€” Alternative Border Option (Denser Scallop) :

Round 1 :

After the sc base, join red and work V-stitch clusters (dc, ch1, dc) clustered with 3 chain spaces between clusters to create a fuller petal base.

Round 2 :

Work green sc or hdc in the troughs and around each shell to form a thick ridge. Finish with cream picot as above.

Info :

This alternative yields a slightly more raised edge ideal for thicker, rustic yarn. Choose this if your runner looks too flat or if you want more sculpted petals.

β€” Finishing Touches & Embellishments :

Round 1 :

Sew the reindeer heads onto the base panel using the long tails left from their rounds. Center each head on the markers placed earlier. Use ladder stitch or whip stitch, taking small, even stitches through the base and applique9 edge to create an invisible seam.

Round 2 :

Sew the muzzle in place first, then sew the nose puff centered onto the muzzle. Add eyes (beads or safety eyes) before or during sewing as appropriate. Attach ears at rounds indicated earlier; sew antlers along the top of each head and anchor to the panel through several secure stitches so they remain flat and stable.

Round 3 :

Sew holly clusters between heads in the lattice spaces: two green leaves with a single red berry or small 3-bead cluster according to preference. Use small, hidden stitches to secure leaf tips and berry center. Add white seed beads or small pearls to the center of each red petal if desired for extra shine.

Info :

When sewing applique9 pieces, weave the tail through 6-8 stitches on the wrong side and knot securely. Hide the knot by pulling it into the body of the work through a closed needle pass. Add a dot of fabric glue to safety eye backs for extra security if gifting to children (but note safety concerns with small parts).

β€” Blocking & Final Assembly :

Round 1 :

Once all pieces sewn, re-block the entire runner flat, pinning scallops evenly and steam-blocking lightly to set the border. Ensure applique9 pieces are evenly smoothed. Allow to dry fully before removing pins.

Round 2 :

Weave in all remaining tails on the wrong side, trim close. Gently hand-wash if needed in mild soap; reshape and block again to finish.

Info :

Final blocking and even pinning are what create the professional look. Take your time to lay the scallops symmetrically and ensure the reindeer faces are aligned on the same axis.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach each reindeer head to the base panel at the marked centers. Pin the head flat and sew around with small whip stitch passes making sure the seam is invisible on the right side.
  • Sew the muzzle in the center lower half of the head first, then sew the nose puff on top of the muzzle. Ensure nose is centered and secured with several passes through base fabric.
  • Position the eyes about 3-4 stitches above the top of the muzzle and approximately 6 stitches apart. Insert safety eyes before final sewing of muzzle or embroider eyes with secure knots if preferred.
  • Sew ears to the upper sides of each head (around rounds 4-6 of the head circle). Angle slightly forward for a natural look and tack the base of the ear to the panel for stability.
  • Attach antlers behind the ear placements, anchoring through several stitches into the runner to prevent loose edges. Add small picot branches before sewing for visual interest.
  • Sew holly leaves and berries between reindeer faces, centering them in the lattice spaces. Secure all embellishments tightly and weave in tails on the wrong side.
  • Work the border finish after all applique9s are sewn, pinning scallops and joining with consistent tension. Block the entire runner once more after border to set shape.
  • Weave in and trim all ends, and if using beads for eyes or centers, secure with a small dot of fabric glue on the wrong side for added security.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each row to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff applique9 nose puffs lightly; too much stuffing will make them bulky and difficult to sew flat.
  • πŸ’‘Block the base panel before attaching applique9 pieces to avoid puckering and to ensure even placement.
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use a yarn slightly thinner than the working yarn for neater, less visible seams.
  • πŸ’‘Place safety eyes before stuffing and sealing applique9 pieces so washers can be attached securely.
  • πŸ’‘Pin everything in place and visually check symmetry before final sewing β€” small adjustments at this stage are much easier.
  • πŸ’‘Work border with runner pinned to blocking board to maintain even scallops and prevent asymmetrical edges.
  • πŸ’‘Keep tension slightly tighter than usual for lattice stitches to prevent holes and to give good stitch definition for applique9 placement.

This festive table runner stitches together warmth and nostalgia into a beautifully detailed holiday centerpiece. Each reindeer face and scalloped poinsettia edge adds personality and cheer to your table setting, making it perfect for family gatherings and cozy winter breakfasts. Enjoy the meditative rhythm of the shell clusters and the tiny, satisfying details as you assemble the applique9 pieces. πŸ§ΆπŸŽ„βœ¨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Based on the specified foundation chain and stitch counts, the finished runner measures approximately 85-95cm (33-37 inches) long and 20-24cm (8-9.5 inches) wide. Adjust foundation chain length to resize.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use a hook 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight fabric if using heavier yarn, and adjust the foundation chain length to keep proportions. Gauge changes will alter final dimensions.

Do I need safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work. Safety eyes give a glossy professional look, while embroidered eyes are safer for children and allow more expression. Secure beads or eyes firmly if the runner will be handled frequently.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 300-350g of worsted weight cream for the base, plus smaller amounts for tan, dark brown, red and green accents as listed in materials. Exact amounts vary by size adjustments and yarn brand.

How do I avoid scallops being uneven?

Pin the runner to a blocking board and work border rounds slowly, counting shells and spacing them evenly. If scallops look uneven, adjust by adding or dropping a few foundation sc in the base round before the border.

Can I machine wash this runner?

Hand wash gently and lay flat to dry. Machine washing may distort the shape and damage small applique9 parts and beads. Use colorfast yarns to avoid bleeding between red/green and cream.

How do I make the antlers more three-dimensional?

Crochet an antler stem in the round (MR, sc6 then 2-3 rounds inc to shape thicker stem), then create branches with short chain segments sewn to the stem. Insert a thin wire for poseability, wrapping wire ends and covering with yarn for safety.

Can I adapt this pattern to make a placemat or longer table runner?

Yes β€” reduce the foundation chain for a placemat or increase it for a longer runner. Keep multiples of 6 plus 2 for consistent shell repeats and adjust number of motif zones accordingly.