🧢 Beautiful ✨ Detailed πŸ’ Adorable

Snowman Amigurumi Pattern

Snowman Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Snowman Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through crocheting a small snowman amigurumi complete with hat, pompom, scarf, arms, nose and buttons. It uses DK or similar yarn and a 3.0 mm hook to create a compact, sturdy figure with clear shaping notes. You will learn how to crochet parts in rounds, attach pieces seamlessly and add embroidered details for personality.

Snowman Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes explicit stitch-by-stitch rounds, tips for seamless joins and photo-assisted finishing steps. Perfect for making gift-sized snowmen for holidays or decorations.

Why You'll Love This Snowman Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns basic crochet skills into a charming, finished toy that feels special and handmade. I enjoy how each small technique β€” from invisible decreases to seamless connections β€” makes the final snowman look polished and durable. The pattern is flexible so I can change hat and scarf colors to suit seasons or recipients. Seeing the little face come together with the nose and embroidered mouth always makes me smile and I hope you feel the same joy while making it.

Snowman Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Snowman Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Snowman Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Snowman Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this snowman by changing color choices; try pastel shades for a soft nursery theme or bold holiday colors for festive decor.

You can make the snowman larger or smaller by swapping yarn weight and hook size; a bulky yarn with a larger hook gives a chunky, huggable version while fingering yarn makes a tiny keychain-sized version.

I often swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a softer, baby-safe toy; use embroidery thread to stitch small oval eyes if you prefer no plastic parts.

Try adding tiny accessories like a miniature broom, a crochet mitten or a felt scarf for seasonal variation; sewn-on felt shapes are quick to add and look charming.

For a posable figure, insert thin wire into the arms before stuffing so you can bend them into welcoming poses; be sure to wrap the wire in yarn to avoid sharp ends.

Change the hat style by lengthening the hat rounds or adding a folded brim for a beanie look; you can also add stripes by alternating colors every few rounds.

Embroider different mouth expressions to give each snowman a unique personality; a small upward curve makes it friendly while a bigger smile feels playful.

Make a family set by producing three sizes: a mini (keychain), medium (desk-sized) and large (decor piece) using the same pattern scaled by yarn and hook.

I sometimes use a sparkly or boucle yarn for the hat and scarf to add texture and visual interest; just watch gauge when swapping yarn types.

Finally, make matching sets by crocheting multiple snowmen with coordinated hat and scarf colors β€” they make lovely gifts and holiday displays.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when the pattern asks to mark specific stitches; place and keep markers in place so features (eyes, mouth, scarf) align correctly. βœ— Not stuffing gradually while shaping the body or head; stuff a little at a time and shape as you go to avoid lumps and ensure a smooth silhouette. βœ— Pulling yarn too tight when making decreases which causes visible dents; use consistent, moderate tension and invisible decrease techniques where recommended. βœ— Forgetting to secure and weave in yarn-ends after seamless connections which can cause unraveling; create the seamless connection then secure yarn-ends with knots and weave into the inside. βœ— Trying to insert safety eyes before widening stitches where instructed; widen the stitches with your hook first to make eye insertion easier and avoid splitting yarn.

Snowman Amigurumi Pattern

Make a delightful handmade snowman amigurumi with this complete crochet pattern. You will create a cute, gift-ready snowman with a removable hat, pompom and cozy scarf while learning simple shaping and seaming techniques. This pattern includes step-by-step rounds, helpful tips, and stitch placement notes so you can craft a professional-looking toy you will be proud to gift or display.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Snowman Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (example: Puppets Lyric 8/8, Catania Grande) or two strands of sport weight yarn - main white color approx. 56g
  • 02
    Color for nose: orange - approx. 2g (example color code 5037)
  • 03
    Inner body/hat brim/pompom color - approx. 35g
  • 04
    Hat and scarf color - approx. 15g (example color codes 1334 blue, 385 light blue)
  • 05
    Black yarn for crocheted buttons and mouth - approx. 1g for buttons and some for mouth
  • 06
    Suggested color codes (Puppets Lyric): 5000 (white), 5037 (orange), 5001 (black), 1334 (blue), 385 (light blue)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0 mm (or one or two sizes smaller than recommended for your yarn)
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (e.g. pieces of scrap yarn)
  • 04
    12 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing
  • 07
    Optional: some colored pins
  • 08
    Optional: small buttons (15 mm) to sew or glue on instead of crocheted buttons
  • 09
    Yarn for embroidery (black) for mouth details

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” SNOWMAN - The Pattern :

Info :

Make the small parts first (nose, arms, buttons). You'll need them while making the head and body. Instead of crocheted buttons you can use some to sew or glue on. I'll mention only the crocheted ones here though.

β€” ARM (make 2, use yarn in WHITE) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 18

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 18

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Info :

stuff the arm

Round 8 :

flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs - 4

Info :

Crochet the opening closed with 4 single crochets. Fasten off & weave in the yarn-end

β€” OPTIONAL: BUTTON (make 2, use yarn in BUTTON-COLOR) :

Info :

I usually make them in black. Instead of crocheting them you can use small buttons, mini pompoms etc (15 mm in diameter).

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Info :

fasten off & leave long yarn-ends hang for later sewing; pull ring closed and create a seamless connection between round's end and beginning; to create a seamless connection guide the yarn-end through the first stitch - from back to front, and from there through the last stitch - between back loop and front loop; β†’ see page 19 for details

β€” NOSE (make 1, use yarn in ORANGE) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*sc in next st* around - 6

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* x3 - 9

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3 - 12

Round 5 :

get a second stitch-marker and mark stitch #2 within this round; you need this position later for crocheting the nose to the head; *sc in next st* around (slip stitch in last st) - 12

Info :

fasten off & weave in the yarn-end on the inside. Leave the additional stitch-marker in place

β€” BODY (make 1, begin with yarn in CONTRAST-COLOR) :

Info :

You start here with the body's inner part. If you'd like it to be in another color begin with contrast-color. I usually use the same color I use for the hat's brim & pompom. Otherwise begin in white. Info 2: The number of in- or decreases per round changes frequently, sometimes from round to round. I'm not mentioning this every time. So please pay attention. :)

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Info :

change of sequence from here on there are 6 increases per round instead of 8

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 30

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 36

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* around - 42

Round 7 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 48

Round 8 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 7 st* around - 54

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 17 st* x3 - 57

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 57

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 57

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 57

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 17 st* x3 - 54

Round 14 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 7 st* x6 - 48

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x8 - 40

Round 16 :

in back loops (β†’ see page 21): *sc in next st* around - 40

Round 17 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 19 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 20 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 22 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 9 st* x4 - 44. Change to WHITE with last st. Secure the yarn-ends of both colors with several knots on the body's inside; cut off the excess yarn;

Round 23 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 44

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 44

Round 25 :

in this round the arms are crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 22 for details on that) sc in next 9 st, now place one of the arms in front of the body; guide your hook through the arm's first stitch and from there through the next stitch of the body; that's the first stitch-pair; push both stitches close together; crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 18 st, crochet second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 9 st - 44

Round 26 :

*sc in next st* around - 44

Round 27 :

*sc in next st* around - 44

Round 28 :

*sc in next st* around - 44

Info :

Add the edge between the white part and the part in contrast-color (β†’ see page 23); this later forms the edge around the body's opening; place the body in front of you with the opening facing towards you; connect yarn in CONTRAST-COLOR to one of the front loops between the white part and the part in contrast-color on the body's back side; crochet with slip stitches around the body until all the front loops are used: *slip stitch in next front loop* around - 44; fasten off and create a seamless connection between round's end & beginning; for the seamless connection guide the yarn-end through the round's first stitch - from back to front; from there guide it through the round's last stitch - between front loop and back loop; pull yarn through to create the seamless connection;

Round 29 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 20 st* x2 - 42

Round 30 :

*sc in next st* around - 42

Round 31 :

in front loops (β†’ see page 21): *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 48

Round 32 :

sc in next 4 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 7 st* x5, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st - 54

Round 33 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 8 st* around - 60

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 60

Round 35 :

*sc in next st* around - 60

Round 36 :

*sc in next st* around - 60

Round 37 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 8 st* around - 54

Round 38 :

sc in next 4 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 7 st* x5, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st - 48

Info :

attach the buttons (β†’ see page 24). I'm using crocheted buttons here; use the two yarn-ends to sew each button to the body with a few stitches; secure the yarn-ends on the body's inside and cut off the excess yarn; the buttons have a distance of about 3 rounds between them; use the 'bend' between upper and lower body as reference; the upper button sits 1 round above that bend, the lower button sits 2 rounds below it;

Round 39 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* around - 42

Round 40 :

sc in next 3 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x5, inv_dec, sc in next 2 st - 36

Round 41 :

in back loops: *dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 30

Round 42 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 24

Round 43 :

*inv_dec, sc in next st* x8 - 16

Round 44 :

*inv_dec* around - 8

Info :

fasten off, close the remaining opening & hide yarn-end. To close the opening weave the yarn-end through the front loops of each of the remaining stitches; pull tight to close the opening; straighten out the inner part

β€” HEAD (make 1, begin with yarn in WHITE) :

Info :

Here too you begin with the head's inner part and end with the pompom on top of the hat.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Note :

change of sequence: the next two rounds have 8 increases per round instead of 6

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 40

Round 13 :

in back loops: *2sc in next st, sc in next 9 st* x4 - 44

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 44

Round 15 :

have 3 additional stitch-markers ready; three stitches need to be marked within this round; crochet the round first, then mark them; in back loops: *2sc in next st, sc in next 10 st* x4 - 48. Mark stitches #26 & #28; these are the positions you later need for the mouth; also mark front loop #17 of the previous round with an additional marker; this position is later needed for the scarf; tie a knot to make the marker more secure if you like;

Round 16 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 7 st* around - 54

Round 17 :

get 2 more stitch-markers ready; two more stitches needed for the mouth need to be marked here; again, mark them once the round is done; sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 8 st* x5, 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st - 60. Mark stitches #30 & #38

Round 18 :

get the nose ready; it gets partially crocheted to the head in this round (β†’ see page 25 for details); sc in next 32 st, now place the nose in front of the head with its opening facing up and the nose's marked stitch pointing towards the head; only use the nose's back loops for crocheting (the inner loops closest to the nose's inside); guide your hook through the back loop of the nose's marked stitch (from the nose's inside towards the outside) and from there through the head's next stitch; push both stitches close together; you now have the first stitch-pair on your hook; partially crochet the nose on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs (only the inner loops of the nose); continue on head with: sc in next 25 st - 60

Round 19 :

*sc in next st* around - 60

Round 20 :

*sc in next st* around - 60

Round 21 :

get 2 more markers ready; the upper part of the nose is crocheted to the head with 3 stitches here (β†’ see page 25 for details); on each side of the nose 3 unused stitches will remain; sc in next 32 st, stuff the nose; now skip 3 stitches on the nose and begin crocheting in the next; only use the nose's back loops here as well; crochet the nose's upper part on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on the head with: sc in next 25 st - 60. Mark stitches #30 & #39 within this round; these positions are for the eyes;

Info :

optional but recommended if you're making this figure for a child: secure the nose's sides to the head (β†’ see page 25). Use a piece of yarn in ORANGE or WHITE, let it come from the head's inside and sew the nose's sides to the head; only use the back loops for sewing here as well; once done secure the yarn-ends on the head's inside with several knots and cut off the excess yarn;

Info :

embroider the mouth (β†’ see page 27) use the 4 marked stitches below the nose; begin with the upper two that sit wider apart; get a strand of yarn in BLACK; let it come from the head's inside; guide it out of one of the upper two marked stitches and then back towards the head's inside through the other one; pull yarn through to create a straight mouth-line; let the yarn come out of one of the two marked stitches below the mouth-line; guide the needle under the mouth-line (make sure to not splice it) and then back again through the same stitch; slowly pull tight to pull the mouth-line down; repeat with the second marked stitch to create the smile; secure the yarn-ends on the head's inside with knots; create the corners of the mouth: take two strands of yarn and make a knot in each of them; take the first strand and guide both ends through the first corner of the mouth; pull through until only the knot is left, sitting at the corner of the mouth; secure the yarn-ends on the head's inside; repeat with the second corner of the mouth and the other knotted strand of yarn;

Round 22 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 8 st* around - 54

Round 23 :

sc in next 3 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 7 st* x5, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st - 48

Round 24 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* around - 42. Change to HAT-COLOR with last st. Secure the yarn-ends of both colors with several knots on the head's inside; cut off the excess yarn;

Round 25 :

in back loops: *2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 48

Round 26 :

*sc in next st* around - 48. Insert the eyes using the two marked stitches to the right and left above the nose. Use your crochet hook to widen the stitches to make insertion easier; put the eyes in and secure them with their closures. Push the head's bottom part to the inside so that the first round of visible front loops forms the edge between inside and outside of the head; the second round of front loops is the one with the marker in one of its front loops; this round runs around the head's lower part;

Round 27 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* around - 42

Round 28 :

sc in next 3 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x5, inv_dec, sc in next 2 st - 36

Round 29 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 30

Round 30 :

sc in next 2 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x5, inv_dec, sc in next st - 24

Round 31 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* around - 18

Round 32 :

*inv_dec, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 33 :

*inv_dec* around - 6. Change to POMPOM-COLOR with last st. Secure the yarn-ends of both colors with several knots on the head's inside; cut off the excess yarn;

Round 34 :

in front loops: *2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 35 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 36 :

*sc in next st* around - 18

Round 37 :

*sc in next st* around - 18

Info :

begin stuffing the pompom stuff more as you go

Round 38 :

*inv_dec, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 39 :

*inv_dec* around - 6

Info :

fasten off, close the remaining opening & hide the yarn-end. Leave the stitch-marker that you placed in round 15 where it is for now. Crochet the scarf (it's crocheted to the head, along the round of front loops around the head's lower part). β†’ continue from here with the scarf pattern

β€” SCARF (use yarn in SCARF-COLOR) :

Info :

I usually use the color I used for the hat. The head should be completed before you begin with this pattern, since the scarf is directly crocheted to the head. See page 30 for details on crocheting the scarf.

Round 1 :

chain 64, ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook, sc in next 10 st, β†’ continue next page

Round 2 :

within this row a loop/a hole is created on the scarf's first end; later you can pull the second end through it; ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook, sc in next 6 st, chain 4, skip 4 stitches, *2sc in next st, sc in next 10 st* x4, sc in next 10 st - 68

Round 3 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook, *sc in next st* across - 68

Round 4 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook, in back loops: *slip stitch in next st* across - 68; chain 1, fasten off & weave in the yarn-ends on the scarf's back side; now tuck one end through the other's hole

Info :

Now get the snowman's head and place it in front of you upside down; guide your hook through the scarf's next stitch and from there through the marked front loop on the head; this is the first stitch-pair; crochet the scarf to the head with: sc in next 44 stitch-pairs, the rest is worked into the remaining stitches along the chain, like in the beginning: sc in next 10 st - 64

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by placing the head upside down on the body opening, guide your hook through the scarf's next stitch and the marked front loop on the head, then crochet sc in next 44 stitch-pairs to secure the scarf and join head to body.
  • Sew the arms to the body in round 25 by aligning the arm's first stitch with the body stitch and crocheting the arm on with sc in next 4 stitch-pairs; repeat for the second arm and continue crocheting the body rounds.
  • Insert safety eyes into the head using the two marked stitches to the right and left above the nose; widen the stitches first with a crochet hook if necessary and secure with safety closures.
  • Sew the nose to the head using the marked stitch on the nose and the head; use the nose's back loops when crocheting the nose partial join and secure side stitches with a strand of yarn tied inside the head if desired.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to mark the positions for eyes, mouth and scarf attachment; these markers guide accurate placement of facial features and accessories.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but evenly as you go, especially the head and pompom; overstuffing can distort shaping while under-stuffing leaves gaps.
  • πŸ’‘Create seamless connections for buttons, brim and edges by guiding yarn-ends through the round's first and last stitch to hide joins and secure yarn before trimming.

This delightful Snowman Amigurumi pattern walks you through every stitch needed to create a charming little friend for gifts or holiday decor. Change hat and scarf colors to match any theme and make each snowman unique. Have fun crocheting and bringing this cheerful character to life! πŸ§Άβ˜ƒοΈπŸ˜Š

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended DK yarn and 3.0 mm hook the finished snowman measures approximately 9 x 16 cm (without arms).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but it will change the final size; lighter yarn makes a smaller figure and heavier yarn makes it taller β€” adjust your hook accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic experience with amigurumi techniques (magic ring, increases, decreases, working in BLO/FLO and simple sewing) is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours depending on experience and how much time you spend on finishing and embroidery.