A delicate three-medallion crochet table runner in sunny yellow and crisp white. Each round medallion features a layered sunburst center, lacy star points and tiny floral connectors that join the medallions into a long elegant runner. The fine cotton thread creates a crisp, drapey lace perfect for tabletops or as a centerpiece accent. Includes full round-by-round instructions, join-as-you-go notes, and finishing tips to recreate the exact look.
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— Materials & Gauge :
Info :
Use size 10 crochet cotton and a 1.75 mm steel hook. Gauge for each completed medallion measured across the center to outer points should be approximately 22-24 cm (8.5-9.5 in) blocked. Blocking is essential to reach final dimensions and to open lace details.
— Abbreviations & Special Stitches :
Info :
Abbreviations are US terms. Picot here is ch3, sl st into first ch unless otherwise noted. Puff stitch shown as (yo, insert, yo, pull loop) x3, yo and draw through all loops. When an instruction says 'work into ch-sp' you are working into the chain space, not the top of a stitch. Join rounds with sl st to the beginning stitch unless specified. Work tightly enough to prevent gaps but not so tight you cannot insert your hook in fine thread.
— Main Round Medallion (Make 3) :
Info :
Each medallion is worked from the center outward in two colors: the center sunburst is worked in Yellow and the main star points in White, with Yellow used again for the outer edging tips. The rounds below are enumerated for one medallion — repeat to make three identical medallions. Add stitch markers at the start of each round. Count carefully when transitioning from solid rounds to lacy chain rounds.
Round 1 :
Using Yellow, make a magic ring. Work 12 dc into the ring. Join with sl st to top of first dc. (12)
Round 2 :
Ch2 (counts as 1 dc), (1 dc, inc) x6 across (work pattern across pairs) — work: 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat around and join. (24)
Round 3 :
Ch2, (2 dc, inc) x6 — work 2 dc in next two sts, 2 dc in next st (increase), repeat around; join. (36)
Round 4 :
Ch2, (3 dc, inc) x6 — work 3 dc, then 2 dc in next st; repeat around; join. (48)
Round 5 :
Ch2, 1 dc in each st around. Join. (48)
Info :
Check your circle: the center should lie flat. If buckling occurs, you may have increased too quickly. If cupping occurs, add one additional increase round before proceeding. This pattern assumes a comfortable 48-stitch round to create a base for the lacy star points.
Round 6 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), *dc in next 2 sts, ch2, sk 2 sts*; repeat from * to * around, ending with dc in last stitch; join with sl st to top of ch3. (This forms 16 ch-2 loops and a series of intervening dcs; total dc count remains 48.)
Round 7 :
Switch to White on the last pull-through of round 6 (Info: change color here). Ch4 (counts as tr), into each ch-2 space work: (2 tr, ch2, 3 tr) to create fan shells; between each fan work 1 sc in the dc that sits between ch-2 loops from previous round. Repeat around and join. (16 fans)
Round 8 :
Ch1, sc in same st, *ch6, sc in center tr of next fan (this anchors the arch), ch6, sc in next dc between fans*; repeat around to create tall arches. Join. (16 main arches)
Info :
These tall arches become the base for the star points. Use stitch markers to mark every 4th arch if helpful to maintain even spacing. Carry Yellow unused strand inside if you prefer not to cut it yet, or fasten off and reattach Yellow later for the outer tips.
Round 9 :
Ch3, 12 dc evenly distributed into each ch-6 arch: work (dc, ch2, dc, tr, dc, ch2, dc, dc) inside each arch to shape a petal stub; sl st to join at end of round. After completing this round you have created 16 petal stubs around the medallion. (Stitch count varies but maintain symmetry: 16 petal clusters.)
Round 10 :
Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, (sk next petal cluster base), sc into tip of next petal cluster*; repeat to create small looped points between clusters. Join. (16 looped spaces)
Round 11 :
Ch3, *work 1 dtr, 1 tr, ch3, 1 tr, 1 dtr into each ch-4 loop from previous round to create raised elongated points*; join. (16 elongated points)
Info :
At this stage verify the medallion diameter visually. Blocking will open the lace dramatically but the structure should already be balanced. If a point looks too narrow, use a longer chain in the next repeat to even it out.
Round 12 :
Ch1, sc in same st, *ch8, sc in base between two elongated points*; repeat around creating long connecting loops between each point. Join. (16 long chain loops)
Round 13 :
Into each ch-8 loop: sl st, ch3, (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc), sl st — creating a double fan (a larger star point). Anchor each fan by making a sc in the small base space between fans. After working around, join. (16 large fans/points)
Round 14 :
Ch1, sc into center top of each fan, *ch5, sc in tip of the next fan*; repeat making delicate arches that will be the white star points. Join. (16 arches)
Info :
Switch back to Yellow at the end of Round 14 if you plan to highlight the outer tips in Yellow. This pattern shows Yellow tips: change color on the last sl st of round 14 so the next round begins in Yellow.
Round 15 :
With Yellow, ch1, sc in same st, *(ch3, picot, ch3, 3 dc) into arch, sl st to base between fans*; repeat around creating small embellished points. This begins the delicate yellow edging. Join. (16 decorative points)
Round 16 :
Ch2, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) into each arch space to build a 5-cluster ornamental petal; sl st to join. After this round you have 16 ornate petals standing slightly away from the center. (Stitch clusters: 16)
Round 17 :
Ch1, sc into center of each ornate petal, *ch6, sc into very tip of petal (this makes a small loop at the tip) *; repeat around. Join. (16 tip loops)
Round 18 :
Ch1, *into each tip loop: (sc, ch3, picot, ch3, sc)* to create a tiny flower-like point at each tip; sc in base; repeat around. Join. (16 flower-tip loops)
Info :
If you want a fuller scallop, add an extra round of (dc, ch2, dc) in the tip loops. The pattern here keeps the outer edge delicate with small yellow picots for a vintage feel.
Round 19 :
Fasten off Yellow leaving a 30 cm tail for later secure weaving and for joining outer edges. Re-attach White with a sl st in the base between two petals for the next decorative round. Ch5, sk to next base, sl st to create small chain connectors around the rim. Continue around producing 16 small chain loops; join and fasten off. (16 connector loops)
Info :
Weave the long Yellow tail through the back of the petals to tidy the start and prepare for joining. Do not trim until after blocking to ensure tail placement remains flat.
Round 20 :
Blocking prep: lightly mist medallion and pin to round shape stretching each outer point to equal length. Use pins at each of the 16 points and at 16 mid-arches if needed. Allow to dry fully before assembly. (Info: essential step.)
Info :
Repeat Rounds 1-19 to make three identical medallions. Work them in sequence or make all centers first, then outer rounds. Label each motif if you make them in different sessions to keep color joins consistent.
— Small 5-Petal Flower Connector Motifs (Make 9-12 as needed) :
Info :
These small flower motifs join medallions with short chain links. The runner in the photograph uses 4 flowers between medallions (3 gaps total) plus additional edge flowers that tuck into the outer points. Make approximately 9–12 small flowers to assemble this runner as shown (adjust for personal length).
Round 1 :
With Yellow, make a magic ring. Ch1, 5 sc into ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (5)
Round 2 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), into each sc work (dc, ch2, dc) to make five tiny petals separated by small chain spaces. Join. (5 petals)
Round 3 :
Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, sc in tip of next petal*; repeat to create 5 ch-4 loops around. Join. (5 loops)
Round 4 :
Switch to White. Into each ch-4 loop work: (sl st, ch3, 3 dc, ch3, sl st) producing 5 larger petals in white. Join and fasten off leaving a 20 cm tail for joining. (5 large petals)
Info :
Make several of these small flower connectors - you will use them as join pieces between medallions and to fill the spaces at the medallion edges. Keep tails long for secure slip-stitch joining and do not weave ends until after assembly and final blocking.
— Short Chain Link Connector (Make many) :
Info :
These connectors are simply delicate chain bridges worked in White between small flowers or medallion points. They can be worked as ch-6 or ch-8 lengths and slip-stitched into place during join-as-you-go. Use flexible sizing to keep spacing natural.
Round 1 :
With White, ch8, sl st into the loop on the component you are connecting (see assembly notes). Fasten off leaving 10-15 cm tail. (Flexible length)
— Outer Petal Pinpoint Edging (Optional decorative rounds) :
Info :
Use this edging to add crisp yellow tips to any outer point that you want to emphasize after joining. This is worked directly into the outer picot loops of medallions while joining and will require about 12 small edging tips per medallion.
Round 1 :
With Yellow re-attached at outer picot, ch1, sc into picot base, *ch3, picot, ch3, sc into next picot base*; repeat along the rim where desired. Join and weave in ends. (Applied selectively to 12–16 picots)
— Join-As-You-Go Assembly Notes :
Info :
We recommend blocking each motif before joining to ensure even tension. The runner photographed uses three medallions joined by short chain links and 5-petal flowers spaced evenly between medallions. Work join steps with a tapestry needle and small sl-st joins to keep joins invisible on the top surface. When slip-stitching, join through the back loops only of the petal base (BLO) to preserve the raised petal texture on the top side.
Step 1 :
Lay medallions flat on blocking surface with edges facing upward. Position the first and second medallion approximately 22-24 cm apart center-to-center (adjust for desired spacing). Pin to hold.
Step 2 :
Take a small flower connector and, using its long Yellow tail, slip-stitch through the BLO of the yellow tip picot on medallion A and then through the BLO of the corresponding picot on medallion B. Pull gently to align and maintain flatness. Repeat for the other three connector positions so that you have four flower bridges between the medallions forming a square chain link pattern. Weave tails back into the connector center on the reverse side.
Info :
If you prefer a completely invisible join, use a ladder stitch going through the back of each tip rather than a visible slip stitch; however, ladder stitch is slower and slightly bulkier on the backside. The slip-stitch method keeps the top side visually seamless.
Step 3 :
Use short chain link connectors (ch6 or ch8) to fill gaps where medallion points do not meet directly—sl st into connector loop on the flower, and then sl st to the next medallion point's picot loop, tighten to lay flat. Repeat until your first gap is bridged cleanly. Continue pinning as you go to maintain alignment.
Step 4 :
Join second gap(s) similarly. After joining medallion 1 to medallion 2, repeat the same process to connect medallion 2 to medallion 3. Use identical spacing to keep pattern symmetrical. If you want shorter or longer spacing simply alter the chain link length: ch6 for tighter spacing, ch10 for larger gaps.
Info :
Make sure all joins are made through BLO at the base of the petal or token stitch specified; this keeps the top surface unbroken and the decorative points intact. Weave all tails through the back of the motifs and trim close to the fabric; heat-blocking will hide ends inside the lace.
— Optional Inner Embellishment Rows (Add for extra depth) :
Round 1 :
With White re-attached inside the central sunburst (5-7 rounds from center), ch1, sc evenly between stitches to produce a subtle raised ridge. Repeat around 2–3 rounds in the same manner to create additional texture. This step is optional; do it before blocking for best effect.
Info :
These inner rounds accentuate the sunburst ribs seen in the photograph and give the medallion more structure. If you choose this path, do it consistently on all three medallions so the runner appears balanced.
— Final Blocking & Finishing :
Info :
Once all joins are complete, wet-block the entire runner. Pin each medallion evenly, stretch chain connectors to gentle tension and pin flowers flush with medallion edges. Place pins at every petal tip and midway along arches to open lace. Allow to dry fully (12–24 hours) then remove pins.
Round 1 :
Use a light starch or fabric sizing if you desire extra stiffness for display. Apply gently with a spray bottle or steam block; avoid soaking after final weave-in. Steam block adds sheen but can slightly shrink thread if overdone — test a scrap first.
Info :
Weave in all ends on the reverse side with a fine tapestry needle. Trim tails close to the fabric. Inspect both sides and reinforce any joins that feel loose with an invisible whipstitch or small sl st on the reverse to stabilize connectors.
— Complete Project Notes & Variations :
Info :
To lengthen the runner, make additional medallions and add more connectors; maintain the same spacing between centers. For a placemat version, use a single medallion and add a wider edging. Experiment with different color placements — e.g., white center with yellow points for a reversed look. For holiday styling, substitute gold or red for the yellow sections.
Info :
While the rounds above are specific, lace crochet often allows small personalization: add more ch-sp rounds to widen the diameter, or more fan rows for deeper points. Keep symmetry consistent by counting repeats and using stitch markers at key repeats (every 4th or 8th fan).
Info :
Congratulations — when all medallions are joined and the runner is blocked, the finished piece should lie flat, with each medallion measuring roughly 22–24 cm across and the full runner as shown measuring approximately 70–75 cm long from end tip to end tip (three medallions plus connectors). Adjust yarn weight and hook if you want a larger or smaller finished dimension.
This Sunrise Lace Table Runner is a lovely statement piece blending vintage lace techniques with modern color contrast. The layered sunburst centers and star points open beautifully when blocked, and the small floral connectors add an elegant handmade detail that feels special and heirloom-worthy. Whether you place it beneath a vase or down the center of a dining table, this runner gives a fresh handcrafted accent to your home. 🌼🧶
