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Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

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About This Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

This pattern recreates a tall spiral witch hat in pastel lilac and mint with a pronounced brim and a whimsical curled tip. The hat is worked in rounds from a flat brim into a tall cone, using alternating color bands for a spiral effect. Decorative braided cords, ribbon loops, and three flat spiral roses are created separately and sewn to the hatband for a polished finish. The stitches are worked tightly for structure; I recommend cotton or cotton-blend yarn to hold the cone shape.

Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed round-by-round instructions guide you through the brim, cone, scalloped edging, hatband, spiral roses, and assembly. The pattern includes tips for even color changes, stabilization, and finishing to ensure the hat keeps its shape while remaining lightweight.

Why You'll Love This Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

I love how the tall spiral cone and wide rippling brim create a dramatic yet delicate silhouette — the pastel lilac and mint stripes give the hat a playful, storybook look. The little ribbon roses add a feminine, handcrafted touch that makes this piece feel special. I enjoy that this design is structured enough to look neat but flexible enough to customize colors and trims to suit any season.

Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love that this pattern is so adaptable — you can keep the spiral stripes but change the color palette to create spooky Halloween hues, spring pastels, or even jewel tones for a more formal prop. Try deep plum and forest green for a classic witch look, or soft peach and cream for a whimsical daytime accessory.

I often switch up the brim width and cone height to suit the wearer or the display space. For a sturdier display piece I use cotton thread and slip a thin interfacing disc into the brim; for a wearable hat I use DK yarn and leave the cone unlined for comfort. You can also add beading or metallic thread for a touch of sparkle.

If you want a child-sized version, reduce brim increase rounds by two and shorten cone even rounds. For a dreamy miniature, use thinner hook and thread and reduce all counts proportionally — the rose construction works at any scale by adjusting the starting chain length.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of rounds makes round counting difficult and can cause the spiral stripes to shift; always mark round starts. ✗ Changing colors without fastening off or carrying neatly will leave bulky joins; use invisible color change technique or weave tails neatly. ✗ Not blocking or shaping the brim after finishing can leave the edge floppy; steam or lightly block with pins to achieve a flat brim. ✗ Stuffing or cramming the cone with too much material to force a curl will create an uneven, lumpy shape; instead, use a light wire or soft interfacing for a neat curl. ✗ Sewing the band or roses on before finishing the scalloped edge may hide joining stitches; assemble trims after final edging so joins are invisible. ✗ Too loose tension leads to floppy cone and visible gaps; work tightly enough that stuffing or interfacing will not show through stitches. ✗ Failing to weave in ends securely at color changes can cause unraveling; weave tails into several rounds of stitches and knot if necessary.

Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

A charming spiral witch hat worked in alternating lilac and mint stripes, featuring a wide rippling brim, a tall curled cone, and three woven ribbon roses with braided tendrils. This decorative accessory uses tight stitches for structure and neat scalloped edging for a finished, professional look. Perfect as a seasonal decoration, photo prop, or whimsical costume accent.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Lilac and Mint Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Light/DK weight yarn (#3) cotton or cotton-blend, approximately 140-170g total in two main colors
  • 02
    Lilac (approx. 80-95g)
  • 03
    Mint (approx. 60-75g)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g each) of contrasting colors if you choose to add extra decoration (e.g., darker purple for accent)
  • 05
    Optional: thin ribbon (3-4mm wide) in lilac for bow loops — about 0.5m

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for main work (or hook appropriate to your yarn tension)
  • 02
    2.5mm (C) hook for tighter details and roses (optional)
  • 03
    Flexible millinery wire or lightweight craft wire (optional) for shaping the cone tip
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill or soft interfacing for light support (very small amount if using interfacing)
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4 to mark rounds and join points)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for blocking and assembly
  • 09
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 10
    Optional: hot glue or fabric glue for securing ribbon ends if preferred

Progress Tracker

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— Notes Before You Start :

Info :

Gauge: Not critical for decorative hat but aim for dense fabric. Tight single crochet yields best structure. Measure brim width as you go; this pattern will produce a brim approx. 12-15cm and overall hat height approx. 25-28cm when following rounds below using DK/light yarn and 3.0mm hook.

Info :

Colorwork: This hat alternates lilac and mint bands. Change colors every 4 rounds for a strong stripe width similar to the photo. Use invisible color change at the last stitch of the previous round or carry yarn inside if you plan to keep the hat interior tidy.

— Brim (Worked Flat in Rounds) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin establishing your stripe: change to mint (if starting in lilac) after finishing Round 5 so the first visible stripe band sits on the brim center. Carry yarn neatly or fasten off and join next color.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Info :

Keep consistent tension; if brim begins to ruffle or cup, adjust increase frequency. To flatten further, perform one round with fewer increases (e.g., skip an increase pattern) to level out fabric.

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

Info :

Change color if you are following the pictured banding — alternate back to lilac now. For a spiral appearance later on the cone, keep color stripes consistent in the brim but the cone will be worked with offset bands.

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, inc) x 6 (90)

Round 16 :

(14 sc, inc) x 6 (96)

Round 17 :

(15 sc, inc) x 6 (102)

Info :

If you prefer a slightly narrower brim, stop increasing earlier; if wider, continue the same increase logic another 1-2 rounds. For the pictured size stop after Round 18-20 depending on your tension.

Round 18 :

(16 sc, inc) x 6 (108)

Round 19 :

(17 sc, inc) x 6 (114)

Round 20 :

(18 sc, inc) x 6 (120)

Round 21 :

(19 sc, inc) x 6 (126)

Info :

To create the ridge and band line that will receive the crown base, work one round in BLO (back loops only) next. This gives a little lip for the crown to sit on and helps the hat keep its shape.

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st BLO (126)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (126)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (126)

Round 25 :

1 sc in each st (126)

Info :

At this point, mark the center point of the brim where the crown will be attached. We will create a slightly smaller circular crown piece that will be sewn or crocheted onto the brim center to begin the cone.

— Crown Base (Inner Circle That Joins Brim to Cone) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

This small circle will fit into the center of the brim opening. If your brim center hole is larger, add one more increase round to match circumference. Place this circle onto the brim center and either sew using whip stitch or join by single crochet through both layers for a clean join.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Join crown base to brim: align the crown base center on the brim center, pin or clip it in place, then either slip-stitch around through both layers or whip stitch with matching yarn. If you want a seamless join, use a join-as-you-go method: pick up loops from brim and crown alternately as you single crochet around.

— Cone (Tall Spiral Cone Worked in Continuous Rounds) :

Round 1 :

With crown base joined, pick up 30 sts from the last round and continue: 1 sc in each st (30)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Begin spiral shaping: we will alternate sets of even rounds with occasional increases to gradually expand and allow the cone to beginto curve. Change color after Round 4 to create the next horizontal band. Change color every 4 rounds for the pictured wide stripe effect.

Round 5 :

(5 sc, inc) x 5 (35)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (35)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (35)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (35)

Info :

Change color for the next stripe now. To encourage a spiral slant similar to the photo, stagger the location of increases by shifting the first increase of each increase round one stitch forward relative to the previous increase round. This stagger causes the bands to travel diagonally as you build height.

Round 9 :

(6 sc, inc) x 5 (40)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Info :

Continue to change color every 4 rounds to create alternating bands. If color joins show, weave tails along the inside rounds or use small invisible knots before weaving.

Round 13 :

(7 sc, inc) x 5 (45)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (45)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (45)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st (45)

Info :

At Rounds 13-16 the cone will begin to bulge gently; this creates the graceful shape before the tip tapers. If you prefer a straighter cone, reduce increases by performing an inc round every 6 rounds instead.

Round 17 :

(8 sc, inc) x 5 (50)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (50)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st (50)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (50)

Info :

Carefully maintain the stagger when placing increases. Mark the first increase stitch of each increase round to maintain the diagonal spiral direction across color changes.

Round 21 :

(9 sc, inc) x 5 (55)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (55)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (55)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (55)

Info :

Switch color every 4 rounds again. At this stage, the cone is expanding steadily. If the spiral slant is too steep, reduce the number of increases per increase round by one (i.e., perform (10 sc, inc) x 5 instead of (9 sc, inc) x 5) — but be consistent every increase round.

Round 25 :

(10 sc, inc) x 5 (60)

Round 26 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 27 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 28 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

Now that the cone is wide enough, we will work several rounds of even height to build cone length and facilitate the spiral diagonal. Continue alternating colors every 4 rounds for the signature banding.

Round 29-32 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 33 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 34 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Round 35 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Round 36 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Begin tapering: we will decrease gradually across a number of rounds to pull the cone into a long point ready for curling. Stuffing is minimal — the hat cone is mostly structural fabric. If you want a stable curl at the tip, plan to insert a short length of millinery wire or pipe cleaner before closing.

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 38 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 39 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 40 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

To prepare for curling the tip, leave a long yarn tail at the last opening so you can sew the tip into a tight spiral or slip a wire inside. If inserting wire, push it in now through the center axis and wrap with a small bit of yarn or tape to prevent sharp ends from poking out.

Round 41 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 42 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 43 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 44 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 45 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

At approx. Rounds 41-45 your cone should be noticeably tapered. Decide how long you want the curled tip; for the photo, a long taper ending in a small spiral was used. Continue tapering gradually for a smooth curve.

Round 46 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 47 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 48 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 49 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 50 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 51 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 52 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 53 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 54 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Start curving: with a few rounds left, draw the tip into a spiral by sewing through the last rounds or by crocheting a final tighter spiral. If using wire, bend the wire gently into the desired curl and wrap with leftover yarn to encase it. Do not overstuff the cone; a little flexibility allows a neat curl.

Round 55 :

6 dec (6)

Round 56 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Use tail to sew hole closed securely and shape tip into a small spiral or curl. Weave tail inside cone securely and trim close.

— Cone Spiral Styling Tips :

Info :

To emphasize the spiral diagonal effect of the bands, ensure the first increase stitch in every increase round is shifted 1-2 stitches from the previous increase round. This controlled offset produces a consistent diagonal and matches the pictured spiral wrapping.

Info :

If your color stripes appear stacked vertical rather than diagonal, adjust the stagger of increases by moving markers and reworking the last increase round with a one-stitch offset.

— Scalloped Brim Edge & Decorative Round :

Round 1 :

Join lilac at edge. *Sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st* around to create shells. Depending on your final brim stitch count (126), adjust repeats to place shells evenly: (shell and sl st) x 42 approx.

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around over shells and gaps to tidy edge (126)

Info :

For a neat finished look, block the brim on a flat surface using pins and a gentle steam or damp cloth — reshape scallops and allow to dry fully before attaching trims.

— Hat Band (worked as a long strip and attached) :

Round 1 :

Ch 6. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (5). Turn.

Round 2-60 :

1 sc in each st (5) — work until band length equals brim inner circumference. Measure band against the brim center (approx 30cm). For pictured hat aim for approx 55-60 rounds of a narrow band to create a rope-like thickness; alternatively double the band to create a thicker sash.

Info :

Make two bands if you want a braided look: create three strips and braid loosely before sewing to hat as pictured. Use matching colors and then tack in a few stitches to fix braid shape.

Round 61 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew band around base of cone where crown base joins the brim, overlapping ends and securing with small whip stitches.

— Spiral Roses (Make 3 — small, medium, large) :

Rose Small (Rose A) Round 1 :

Ch 30 (or 20 for smaller). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (29 sc)

Rose Small Round 2 :

Turn, ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rep across to add slight flare. Fasten off leaving long tail.

Rose Small Round 3 :

Lay strip flat, starting at one end, roll strip tightly into a spiral. Use the long tail to stitch the base of the spiral securely through all layers with whipstitches to form a rose. Tighten as desired to match photo proportions.

Info :

Make two other roses: Rose B ch 36 then sc across for medium, Rose C ch 24 then sc across for smallest. Alternatively adjust chain length to alter diameters. Use contrasting colors: one mint, two lilac, or vice versa to mimic the photo.

Rose Medium Round 1 :

Ch 36, sc across (35 sc). Fasten off leaving long tail.

Rose Medium Round 2 :

Optional: on second pass add gentle increases to give fullness: *2 sc in next st, sc next* across. Roll and sew as above.

Rose Large Round 1 :

Ch 48, sc across (47 sc). Fasten off, roll and sew to form rose. Use firmer stitches (smaller hook) for tighter coil that looks like pictured spirals.

Info :

To make spiraled rope decorations (thin tendrils), chain to desired length (15-25 ch), then sc back along chain tightly to create a slender cord. Affix around band as pictured, leaving several for trailing loops.

— Assembling Roses and Bands :

Info :

Pin band across hat where crown meets brim. Arrange three roses in a cluster shifted slightly to one side (as in photo). Glue or sew each rose in place through the base using small stitches. Add braided or twisted cords and ribbon loops behind roses for that flowing effect.

Info :

Ribbon: cut 3 x 15cm lengths of lilac ribbon. Fold in half to create loops. Secure ribbon under rose cluster by sewing through the band and rose base. Tuck ends under and glue with tiny dot of fabric glue if necessary to hold shape.

— Final Finishing & Stabilizing :

Info :

Weave all tails into interior rounds and trim. If cone requires extra stiffness, sew a thin strip of interfacing or felt inside the cone body before final closure. For a more permanent curl at the tip, thread flexible wire through and curve gently then encase with a short crochet tube of yarn to keep wire from showing.

Info :

Blocking: Gently dampen hat with spritz of water and shape on a flat surface for the brim, pin scallops evenly. Allow to dry completely. Steam blocking from a safe distance can also help set curves in the cone.

Info :

Optional Embellishments: Add beads, sequins, or a light dusting of glitter glue to the rose centers for extra sparkle. Secure any small elements with glue in addition to stitches for durability.

— Variations & Size Adjustments :

Info :

To scale up for adult costume size, increase brim rounds by 2-4 more increase rounds (maintaining increase pattern) and add height to the cone by repeating even rounds before tapering. Conversely, stop increases earlier for a child-sized or mini hat.

Info :

To make a floppy hat, use a bulkier yarn and larger hook; for a sturdier decorative hat use cotton thread or sport weight yarn and slightly smaller hook and consider interior interfacing for stiffness.

Info :

Care: Hand wash gently and reshape while damp. Avoid machine washing if hat contains wired structure or glued embellishments.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach crown base to brim by aligning the crown circle to the brim center and sewing through both layers with small whip stitches; ensure even tension to avoid puckering and match the brim hole circumference to the crown circle (refer to Brim Round 23 and Crown Base Round 6 for matching stitch counts).
  • Sew the narrow hat band around the base of the cone at the junction between crown and brim (around Cone Round 1-4 area) using the long tail to secure ends; overlap ends behind the rose cluster and secure with hidden whip stitches.
  • Position the three spiral roses on the band to the side (approx. centered between Brim Round 20 marker and front brim edge). Pin in place, then sew through the base of each rose into the band and brim foundation to ensure stability.
  • Tuck and sew in the braided cords or tendrils beneath the roses using small secure stitches along Band Round 55 area; allow cords to trail over the brim as pictured and secure at several points to prevent catching.
  • If using ribbon loops, insert ribbon ends under the rose bases and either sew or glue lightly. If gluing, press and allow to dry completely before trimming excess.
  • Insert optional wire into cone tip prior to final closure (through Cone Rounds 50-56 area). Bend and wrap wire ends, encase if necessary with a short crocheted tube and sew hole closed securely with long tail.
  • Weave and hide all yarn tails into the interior rounds of the hat (through Brim Rounds 22-26 area and Cone Rounds 40-50) and trim close. Block scalloped edge and allow to dry fully before final inspection.
  • Check for loose embellishments and reinforce with small stitches. If desired, tack the band at 2-3 small stitches around the brim to keep it from shifting during wear or display.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain the spiral offset for the cone increases.
  • 💡Stuff cone minimally or use interfacing/wire for shaping; overstuffing makes the cone heavy and can distort the spiral.
  • 💡For color changes, use the invisible join at the end of a round or carry the unused yarn neatly along the inside to avoid bulky joins.
  • 💡When sewing roses and trims, use small, tight stitches through the base layers to ensure they remain securely attached to the band.
  • 💡Block the brim gently after finishing to flatten and define the scalloped edge; pin scallops evenly and steam from a safe distance.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension; too tight creates a stiff hat that is hard to shape, too loose causes gaps and poor structure.
  • 💡If adding wire to the cone tip, wrap ends and encase them to avoid poking through; secure wire inside with several stitches.
  • 💡Measure frequently: hat circumference and band length should match to ensure a neat fit and tidy join between crown and brim.

This lilac and mint spiral witch hat makes a delightful handmade accessory — dramatic, whimsical, and wonderfully photo-ready! Each stripe, scallop, and rose comes together to create a storybook piece you can proudly display or wear. The full pattern walks you through every round and finishing step so your hat turns out neat and sturdy. Have fun stitching and styling your magical creation! 🧶🌸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished hat measures approximately 25-28cm tall (including the curled tip) with a brim diameter of about 24-28cm. Your gauge and yarn choice will change the final measurements proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Lighter yarns create a delicate structured hat while heavier yarns produce a bulkier hat. Adjust your hook size smaller than yarn recommendation for a dense fabric suitable for structure. Add or subtract brim increase rounds to keep proportions.

Do I need to add wire to make the curl?

No — you can shape the tip by crocheting a tighter spiral and stitching it into place. For a permanent and neat curl, lightweight millinery wire or pipe cleaners are useful; wrap wires and encase them in yarn to avoid poking.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 140-170g total of DK/light weight yarn with roughly 80-95g for lilac and 60-75g for mint, depending on size and any added trims. Extra small amounts may be needed for roses and decorative cords.

Are the roses sewn or glued on?

The roses are sewn on with small, secure stitches through their base. You may add a drop of fabric glue for extra hold on ribbon loops, but rely on stitches for durability.

What if my brim cups or ruffles?

Adjust increase frequency: if cupping, add an increase round (evenly spaced) to flatten; if ruffling, reduce the number of increases in the final increase rounds. Blocking the brim flat will also help even out small irregularities.

Can I wash the hat?

Hand wash gently and reshape while damp. Avoid submerging if wire or glued elements are used. Spot clean decorative ribbons or consider removing them prior to washing.

Can I scale this to make a mini or child hat?

Yes — stop brim increases earlier and shorten the cone by working fewer even rounds before tapering. Use the same ratio of increases for a proportional miniature.