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Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern

Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern
4.8★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

✨

Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern

This pattern recreates the lavender spiral witch hat shown in the photos: a tall, sculpted cone with a curled tip, a wide ruffled brim, and hand-rolled purple roses clustered at the base. The hat uses tight single crochet and half double crochet to hold shape and crisp ruffles. Decorative elements include a twisted yarn cord wound around the crown and multiple layered roses with matching leaves for a botanical, whimsical feel. The finished piece is structured but lightweight, ideal as an accessory or display prop.

Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern provides separate sections for crown shaping, a sculpted brim, a curled tip tube (with optional wire for posing), three sizes of roses, small rosebuds, leaves, and a wrap cord. Plenty of Info sections and tips are included for stuffing, shaping, and assembly to help you get professional results.

Why You'll Love This Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern

I love how this design balances structure and softness — the tightly worked stitches create a crisp, sculptural cone while the ruffled brim and hand-rolled roses add a romantic, whimsical touch. The purple-on-lavender palette feels dreamy and elegant, and I especially enjoy the way the twisted cord wraps and small buds dot the crown for visual interest. Working this pattern feels like building a tiny costume with beautiful floral finishing touches.

Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this hat pattern lends itself to small custom touches — you can easily alter the roses, swap in autumnal colors, or make a tiny cluster of metallic beads in the center of each bloom for sparkle. Try making the cord in a contrasting color for a bold accent, or use a lighter yarn for a more delicate brim.

I also find that varying the size and fullness of the rolled roses gives the hat lots of personality. If you want a more vintage look, swap the bright olive leaves for a sage or muted green and add a dusting of pale yarn for an antiqued effect. For a playful version, use variegated yarn for the brim ruffle so it reads as soft stripes when blocked.

When I make this again I plan to experiment with a slightly taller crown and a tighter rolled rose center for a more Victorian silhouette — the construction is forgiving and perfect for creative iteration. Have fun making it your own!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round can cause uneven spiral shaping and misaligned increases; always mark the first stitch and move it each round. ✗ Working too loosely for amigurumi-style accessories yields floppy edges and visible stuffing; use a slightly smaller hook than yarn label suggests for crisp fabric. ✗ Waiting to stuff the conical crown until the end makes it hard to get even fill near the tip; stuff gradually as you build height. ✗ Not pinning and measuring placements of roses and leaves before sewing can lead to a lopsided final look; pin decorations first, adjust spacing, then sew. ✗ Forgetting to weave in short tails deeply will let appliques loosen with time; weave ends through multiple layers and secure with a dot of fabric glue if needed. ✗ Failing to add internal wire (or a pipe cleaner) to the curled tip when you want a poseable curl can result in a limp or drooping curl; plan ahead if you want a dramatic spiral. ✗ Using a yarn with too much halo or fuzz will obscure the rose spirals; choose a smooth cotton or cotton-blend for tight detail and crisp petals

Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern

A whimsical lavender witch hat featuring a tall, twisted spiral crown, wide ruffled brim, and richly textured purple roses with olive-green leaves. This decorative accessory uses compact stitches and cotton-style yarn for a crisp, sculpted finish. The pattern includes step-by-step shaping, textured ridges, and separate tutorials for three rose sizes and multiple leaves to embellish the brim. Perfect for a display piece, costume accent, or charming shelf decor.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Lavender Dreams Spiral Witch Hat with Purple Roses Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 150-200g in light lavender (main hat color)
  • 02
    50-70g in deep purple (accents and large rose)
  • 03
    30-40g in medium purple (medium rose and buds)
  • 04
    20-30g in pale purple or lilac (small rosebud and highlights)
  • 05
    30g in olive/leaf green (leaves and small stems)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-15g) in darker lavender for cord and trim

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for body work (recommended for tight fabric with worsted cotton)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter details and rose coils (optional)
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook for tiny buds and leaves (optional)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Thin floral wire or pipe cleaner (optional, for poseable curled tip)
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing appliques and weaving ends
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for positioning appliques during assembly
  • 10
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 11
    Optional: fabric glue for extra secure applique attachment
  • 12
    Optional: blocking mat and pins to shape brim after finishing

Progress Tracker

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— Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for fit (this is a decorative hat), but for shape consistency: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches in single crochet using 3.5mm hook and worsted cotton yarn. Work tightly to keep stuffing hidden.

— Crown (worked bottom-up from tip to base) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

At this point you have formed the base circumference for the crown (60 sts). If your yarn and hook produce a larger or smaller circumference, adjust the number of increase rounds to reach a comfortable base of approximately 55-65 sts for a medium-sized display hat.

Round 11-15 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Info :

Begin stuffing very lightly through the top end now: use small amounts of fiberfill so tip stays narrow. You will add more stuffing later as the cone widens.

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st BLO (60)

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st FLO (60)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

These alternating BLO/FLO rounds create subtle horizontal ridges that help the cone hold shape and provide an attractive textured look in the body of the crown.

Round 19 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (66)

Info :

If you prefer a slightly wider base for a dramatic brim, perform one or two increase rounds here. The pattern uses 66 sts at this stage for the ruffled brim to sit with fullness.

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st BLO (66)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st FLO (66)

Round 23-28 :

1 sc in each st (66)

Info :

Continue stuffing gradually through rounds 23-28. Stuff more firmly toward the base of the cone but keep the top lighter so the hat looks natural when curls or top are added. Concentrate stuffing along the spiral area if you plan to sew the curled tip afterward.

Round 29 :

1 sc in each st BLO (66)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st (66)

Info :

By round 30 the crown should measure approximately 12-14 cm (4.5-5.5 in) from tip to base depending on yarn and tension. If you'd like a taller crown, add additional even rounds before starting the brim. Keep track of round counts to match position for applique placement later.

— Brim (worked in the round to create wide ruffle) :

Info :

Attach main lavender yarn to any stitch of the base round (after round 30). The brim will be worked in continuous rounds; do not join between rounds for a smooth spiral ruffle. The following rounds create a ruffled effect by strategic increases and shell stitches.

Round 1 :

Sc evenly around into each st (66) — join with sl st if you prefer joined rounds, or continue in spiral

Round 2 :

(2 sc, inc) x 22 (88)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (88)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, inc) x 22 (110)

Info :

Increasing every few rounds causes the brim to flare. The numbers above yield a generous ruffle. If you prefer a subtler brim, perform fewer increase rounds or reduce repeats (e.g., (2 sc, inc) x 26 from 88 sts).

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (110)

Round 6 :

Working shell ruffle: *skip 1 st, (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 sts* repeat around — adjust last repeat to finish evenly (approx 110 sts/ shells)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (work into top of shells and sc spaces) — this evens out the shells and prepares the outer ruffle

Round 8 :

Outer ruffle round: (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in every shell space to create a pronounced wavy edge; if space is small, do (3 dc) in each shell peak. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Info :

Block the brim with water or steam and pin into gentle waves if you want the ruffles more pronounced and stable. Allow to dry fully before attaching decorations.

— Curled Tip Tube (optional internal wire) :

Info :

The visible curled tip in the photos is a narrow tube stitched in a spiral and then shaped around a thin length of floral wire or a pipe cleaner. Crocheting this tube separately allows you to pose the curl. Make one tube and sew it to the crown tip, or work it directly from the top if preferred.

Round 1 :

Ch 4, join into ring with sl st (or work 6 sc in mr) — if making tube from mr: 6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8-14 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

When the tube is long enough to create the visible curl (approx 10-14 cm depending on how tight you want the spiral), insert wired pipe cleaner or floral wire. Fold wire back on itself and wrap with a short length of yarn to prevent ends from poking. Stuff tube very lightly so it holds its cylindrical shape without looking overfilled.

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st BLO to create a defined ridge (12)

Round 16 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Bend the wired tube into a spiral and sew the base of the tube to the tip of the crown (see Assembly section).

— Decorative Cord & Small Pom-Buds :

Info :

The twisted cord that wraps the crown in the photos is a tightly crocheted rope (i-cord style) made by working a long chain and then sc around it in the round, or by crocheting an extended chain and slip-stitching around while keeping tension. Two small pom-buds are made by crocheting tiny tight spheres. Make a long cord approx 60-80 cm to wrap decoratively.

Cord Round 1 :

Ch 70 (or desired length), join to form a long chain rope. Work 1 sc in each chain across for 2 rows to compress the chain into a thick rope, or use a 3-chain I-cord method: using 3 loops, sc around, then sl st to close and repeat to length.

Info :

Alternatively, braid three strands of yarn tightly and secure ends. For a cleaner crocheted rope, use sc around a chain and tighten each round to form a compact cord.

Bud (make 3 small buds) Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Bud Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Bud Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Bud Round 4-5 :

1 sc in each st (18) — stuff lightly

Bud Round 6 :

6 dec (6)

Bud Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail and sew bud closed. Attach buds along cord and crown with whip stitch so they sit snugly in small clusters.

— Large Rolled Rose (make 1) :

Info :

Large rolled roses are made as a long strip worked in rows and then rolled to form a spiral rose. Use deep purple for the largest bloom. The length of the strip determines the fullness of the rose.

Row 1 :

Ch 40, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across (39)

Row 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (39)

Row 3 :

Ch1, turn, (sc, hdc, dc) across to create a fluted edge; work pattern so the outer edge will form petals. (Work approximately 39 sts: count will vary by yarn and tension)

Row 4 :

Ch1, turn, repeat row 3 to accentuate the scalloped edge. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Info :

Lay the strip flat with the more ruffled side facing up. Starting at one end, roll tightly to form the center, then continue to wrap the strip, securing with whip stitch through the base of the roll every 4-6 turns. Adjust tightness to create a natural rose look. Sew base securely to a small round felt disk or directly onto the crown for stability.

Alternative Spiral Rose (if you prefer rounds) Row 1 :

Ch 35, sl st to first ch to form long loop, ch1, sc in each around forming a coil base.

Row 2-6 :

Work multiple rows of sc and (hdc, dc) clusters along the outer edge, then roll into a spiral as above.

Info :

For an extremely full rose, extend the initial chain length or add extra scalloped rows. Secure the rolled rose with sturdy thread plus a few hidden stitches through the center to prevent unrolling.

— Medium Rose (make 1) :

Row 1 :

Ch 28, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (27)

Row 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc across (27)

Row 3 :

Ch1, turn, *(sc, hdc, dc) in next 3 sts* repeat to end to create petals

Row 4 :

Repeat row 3 and fasten off leaving long tail. Roll and sew as described for large rose (tighter, fewer wraps)

Info :

Position the medium rose slightly overlapping the large bloom and the brims edge. Pin before sewing to test placement and balance.

— Small Rosebuds (make 2-3) :

Row 1 :

Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch and across (15)

Row 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc across (15)

Row 3 :

Ch1, turn, (sc, hdc, dc) across to create small petal edge

Row 4 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Roll tightly and sew closed to form buds. Make 2-3 buds to scatter around the main cluster.

Info :

Use contrasting lighter purple for one bud to create depth and variation among blooms.

— Leaves (make 6-8) :

Leaf Round 1 :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last ch to form a pointed tip. Turn to work on opposite side: sc in next st, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in last, sl st to join at base. Fasten off. (About 18-20 sts total)

Leaf Round 2 :

If a larger leaf is desired, after forming the initial leaf, work a round of sc around the entire leaf (including tip) to thicken and provide structure.

Info :

Stiffen leaves by tacking a small amount of craft glue to the underside if needed, or block by pinning flat until dry. Use olive green yarn for natural contrast against lavender.

— Assembly Prep :

Info :

Before sewing any appliques, pin the large rose cluster where you want it on the base of the crown (about 2-3 cm above the brim edge on the front-left quadrant as shown in photos). Arrange the medium rose, small rose(s), and leaves to achieve a balanced cluster. Wrap the cord around the crown once or twice and arrange buds along the cord. Photograph your pinned arrangement for reference if you plan to make multiple hats.

Info :

Use a blunt yarn needle and matching thread or yarn to sew appliques. Sew through the base center of each rolled rose into the hat body using small backstitches; weave ends through several stitches and knot on the inside to secure.

— Sewing & Final Steps :

Info :

Sew the wired curled tip to the topmost round of the crown: position the tube so that its base overlaps about 1.5 cm with the top stitches of the crown. Fold a small section of stitches under and sew into place firmly. Sew additional stitches through the crown and tube base in a circular fashion for added security.

Info :

After sewing roses and leaves, stitch the cord in place at one or two anchor points to stop slippage. For a cleaner finish, tuck and sew cord tails into the inside of the crown and weave the ends into the fabric.

Info :

Trim any visible loose ends. Optional: a tiny dab of fabric glue on the inside of sewn appliques will help hold them permanently in place. If the brim needs further shaping, block gently with steam and pin to desired waves, then let cool and dry.

Info :

Final check: ensure no raw wire ends are exposed; wrap any internal wires with masking tape or extra yarn before inserting. Store the hat on a headform or stuffed inside to maintain shape.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position large rose cluster approximately 2-3 cm above brim on the front-left quadrant; pin in place and test visual balance before sewing
  • Sew each rolled rose through its base into the crown using small whip stitches; pass needle through multiple layers of the hat body and the rose base for security
  • Attach leaves by sewing along their base directly under and between roses so leaf tips radiate outward; sew through both leaf base and hat fabric for a flat attachment
  • Wrap the decorative cord once or twice around the crown, secure each cord end with hidden stitches into the inside of the crown, and add small stitches at 2-3 points to prevent slippage
  • Sew small buds along the cord and near the larger roses using the long tail left from the bud; add a dab of fabric glue inside if the bud feels loose
  • Sew the curled tip tube into the crown apex with the long tail; reinforce by sewing through the tube base and crown apex in several spots to anchor the curl
  • Weave all loose ends into the hat interior at least 3-4 cm, stitch them back into the fabric and trim close; add a small knot if needed
  • If using wire, ensure ends are folded and wrapped, then push them into the crown and stitch over the insertion point to keep wire from shifting

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round to keep track of your rounds and maintain even shaping
  • 💡Stuff cone gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end; this prevents lumps and helps reach narrow tips easily
  • 💡Work tightly for the crown and tube to avoid stuffing showing through — a hook one size smaller than the yarn recommendation is often best
  • 💡Pin and photograph your applique placement before sewing to ensure symmetry and balanced composition
  • 💡If you plan a poseable tip, insert wire before final stuffing of the tube and secure wire ends so they will not poke through the fabric
  • 💡For crisp edges and defined ruffles, block the brim after finishing while maintaining the ruffle shape with pins
  • 💡Weave in tails through several layers of fabric and consider a small dot of fabric glue at stress points for extra durability
  • 💡Always test the cord length and placement before trimming and finishing to avoid short ends

This pretty lavender spiral witch hat is a joyful blend of structure and floral charm — a project that rewards careful shaping with whimsical results. Each rolled rose and leaf adds a layer of personality, and the poseable curled tip invites playful display. Working this hat is a delightful mix of precision and creativity; enjoy the rhythm of tight stitches building into soft ruffles and layered blooms. 🧶🌸 Display proudly or gift to a friend who loves magical, handmade accents!

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Using worsted cotton yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished hat measures approximately 14-16 cm (5.5-6 in) tall (not including curled tip extension) with a brim diameter of about 20-24 cm (8-9.5 in). Exact size varies with yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use a lighter yarn with a smaller hook for a more delicate, shimmery hat and a heavier yarn with a larger hook for a sturdier, chunkier look. Note that stitch counts will remain the same but the finished dimensions will scale proportionally.

Do I need to use wire in the curled tip?

No, wire is optional. Without wire the tip will hold a gentle curve if stuffed and stitched carefully. With wire you can pose and hold dramatic spirals. If using wire, ensure ends are wrapped and secured to prevent poking.

How much stuffing will I need?

Approximately 50-100 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient depending on how firmly you stuff the crown and curled tip. Use small amounts incrementally for even shaping.

Can I wash this hat?

Hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent and reshape the brim while wet. If using wire, remove first or spot clean instead. Cotton yarns can handle careful machine washing but blocking and reshaping may be necessary afterwards.

How do I prevent the brim from flopping?

Use tighter stitches at the base of the brim and include multiple increase rounds to create a ruffle. Blocking the brim with pins and using a small amount of craft stiffener or diluted fabric glue can help maintain waves.

Can I change the rose arrangement?

Absolutely — pin variations of roses and leaves to test compositions before sewing. You can add more or fewer blooms, vary sizes, or add beads for centers to customize the look.

What if my stitch count is off mid-crown?

If counts go off, unravel back to the last known correct round and rework from there. Using stitch markers at round starts and counting increases carefully prevents common mistakes.