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Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern

Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.8K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

Stylish Touch ✨

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern

This pattern recreates the dramatic tall witch hat pictured: a deep curled cone with a spiral ridge, paired with a wide undulating brim for theatrical flair. Worked in bold fuchsia (bright pink) worsted/ DK-weight cotton-blend yarn, the surface is dense and clean to hold the hat's shape. The hat is finished with a crocheted vine of leaves and layered floral appliques, accented with beads and a brass moon charm for a whimsical, elegant touch.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

This pattern focuses on shaping and texture — careful increases and decreases create the tall tapered cone, while a separate worked brim produces that flowing wavy edge. The decorative appliques are modular so you can vary placement and embellishment easily.

Why You'll Love This Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern

I love how bold and theatrical this hat is — it instantly transforms any outfit and makes a striking prop or display piece. I appreciate the mix of structured shaping (the cone) with playful details (spiral ridge and wavy brim) and the tiny flower-and-vine embellishments that add a delicate contrast. The pattern is satisfying to stitch because each section builds toward the final silhouette and there are lots of places to personalize.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how customizable this hat is — you can change yarn weight and color to create a range of looks from soft pastel to dramatic jewel tones. Swap the brass moon charm for a star, bead cluster, or tiny tassel to match your style.

I usually experiment with the spiral ridge: sometimes I crochet a plump cord for a strong raised rope, other times I use front post stitches for a slimmer ridge. You could add sparkly metallic thread for holiday sparkle or a gradient yarn for an ombre cone effect.

If you want a sturdier brim, I would add a light interfacing or a reinforced cord around the outer edge. For a child-safe version I’d skip beads and metal and instead embroider tiny flowers or sew on felt shapes.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned rows and an uneven cone; always mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Using a hook that is too large results in a floppy hat that will not hold the cone’s shape; choose a slightly smaller hook for dense fabric. ✗ Not checking stitch math when increasing to cone circumference leads to a brim that is too small; keep correct counts each increase round. ✗ Overstuffing or inserting heavy filling into the cone will change the intended drape; the cone should be lightly supported or left hollow if using internal wire. ✗ Failing to block the brim after finishing makes it hard to achieve the smooth, wavy edge; wet-block the brim and pin the points for best results. ✗ Attaching appliques before trimming long yarn tails and weaving them hides tiny shaping mistakes; finish ends cleanly first.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern

Make a statement with this tall, whimsical big pink witch hat — bold fuchsia yarn, a dramatic curled cone, and a wide wavy brim. The hat features a spiral cord wrapping the cone and a cluster of floral and leaf appliques with bead accents and a moon charm for a magical finish. This pattern includes detailed shaping, decorative elements, and assembly tips so you can recreate the exact dramatic silhouette shown.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Pinky Witch Hat Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted/DK cotton-blend yarn (approx. sport to worsted weight works) — approx. 200-250g in fuchsia/bright pink for main hat body
  • 02
    30-40g in slightly lighter pink for layered flower petals (accent flower color)
  • 03
    10-20g olive/green for leaves and vine details
  • 04
    Small amounts (5-10g) in darker pink for flower centers and small buds
  • 05
    Optional: small bead assortment and one brass moon charm (see decorations)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (adjust to match gauge)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter detail work and appliques (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking pins and a blocking surface (for brim shaping)
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Small beads and a brass moon charm or similar embellishment
  • 09
    Optional: thin florist wire or pipe cleaner for internal cone support and for shaping spiral (if you want poseable curl)
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing beads (if desired)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Crown (Tall Cone) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round. This crown is worked in continuous rounds (spiral) for a smooth look; do NOT join unless you prefer visible seam lines.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

From rounds 1-8 you are building the base of the cone. Work with even tension so the fabric lies flat and seamless as it widens. If your increases create ripples, switch to a slightly smaller hook by 0.25-0.5 mm.

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

At round 12 you should have a nice, even circle between 70-75 stitches; this sets the hat's mid-crown width. Try the cone against your head or a measuring tape to ensure you like the circumference before continuing increases.

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, inc) x 6 (90)

Round 16 :

(14 sc, inc) x 6 (96)

Info :

Rounds 13-16 bring your crown to approximately 96 stitches which is a common base for a medium-large hat brim. If you prefer a narrower hat, stop increases earlier (for example at round 14 or 15).

Round 17-24 :

1 sc in each st around (96) — work 8 rounds even (96)

Info :

These even rounds create the tall straight section of the cone before tapering. Continue to work tightly so the cone holds its tall shape. If you want a taller hat, add more even rounds here in 2-4 round increments.

Round 25 :

(15 sc, dec) x 6 (90)

Round 26 :

(14 sc, dec) x 6 (84)

Round 27 :

(13 sc, dec) x 6 (78)

Info :

Begin tapering the cone with gentle decreases. Work decs evenly; use invisible decrease for a smooth finish. Start stuffing lightly if you plan to add internal support — cone should be only lightly supported or left hollow for a floppy curl.

Round 28 :

(12 sc, dec) x 6 (72)

Round 29 :

(11 sc, dec) x 6 (66)

Round 30 :

(10 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

Info :

If you want the cone to be more dramatic and spiral tightly, stop decreasing sooner and begin shaping the curl (see curl shaping later). For a smooth taper, follow rounds 28-34 as written.

Round 31 :

(9 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 32 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 33 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 34 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Start preparing the curl by working rounds that will allow you to bend the top. If you plan to insert thin wire or pipe cleaner for a poseable curl, cut it to length and have it nearby; you'll insert it between rounds 40-46 where the cone gets narrow.

Round 35 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 36 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 37 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

At 18 stitches the cone is beginning to form a taper that can be rolled into a curl. If you want a long, thin point, continue decreases more gradually; if you want a tight spiral tip, decrease faster to a small round of 6-8 sts then build the curled tip with short rounds or slip stitch shaping.

Round 38 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 39 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (6)

Round 40 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail if you plan to sew the tip closed or attach to a spiral cord. If you prefer the tip to form into a curled spiral, proceed to the curl shaping section below instead of fastening off now.

— Curl Tip Shaping (Optional Poseable Tip) :

Info :

To make the iconic curled witch hat tip, you will make a narrow spiral tube and optionally insert a wire for shaping. This allows the hat to curl tightly as shown in the photo.

Round 41 :

Join yarn to any st at tip, ch1, 6 sc in same round (6)

Round 42 :

6 sc in BLO around (6) — if you want a spiral ridge, work in FLO for one or two rounds instead

Round 43 :

6 sc (6)

Round 44 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Make a tube of 3-6 rounds depending on desired curl length. Insert a thin piece of florist wire or pipe cleaner cut to the exact desired curl length, leaving ends tucked safely into the base. Bend to shape the curl and secure inside the tube by sewing the tube closed at base.

Round 45 :

6 sc (6) — fasten off leaving long tail for sewing and shaping

Info :

When inserting wire, slide it into the tube before finishing the final rounds. If you prefer no wire, you can lightly stuff the tube with thread or leave it hollow and twist it into the curl and tack in place with slip stitches.

— Spiral Ridge (Decorative Wrap) :

Info :

This spiral ridge that wraps the cone is a simple long chain worked with slip stitches or a crocheted cord. It is then sewn spirally up the cone. The spiral shown appears to be 1 continuous cord that was worked separately and stitched in place in a spiral banding pattern.

Step 1 :

With main color, ch 120 (or long enough to wrap cone from base to tip in a spiral with slight gap between wraps). Make a loose long chain; length will vary depending on your hat height — measure by laying chain alongside cone as you go.

Step 2 :

Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across to end. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Alternatively, work an I-cord style cord: ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, then sl st to join into a tube and continue working around the tube to make a firm rope.

Info :

For a plump raised ridge, work 2-3 rows of sc across the chain before fastening off. You can also use hdc for a taller ridge. Ensure the cord is firm enough to maintain its shape when sewn onto cone.

Step 3 :

Pin the cord at the base of the cone and spiral up, spacing wraps roughly 8-12 rows apart depending on the look you want. Sew cord in place using matching yarn with whipstitches through the cord and cone base. Use small, neat stitches for invisibility.

Info :

Offset the spiral slightly so it sits prominently on the cone; the sample hat shows wraps close together in the upper cone (tighter spiral) and wider spacing lower down. You can stitch more tightly for a compact look.

— Brim (Wide Wavy Edge) :

Round 1 :

Join yarn to any stitch at base of cone where you want brim to begin. Ch1, sc evenly around the base edge for 1 round. Count total stitches; if you used the crown counts above, you will have 96 sc around (96)

Info :

Joining the brim to the cone can be done by working directly around the base stitches (working sc into the cone base) or by sewing a separately made brim to the base. The sample was worked directly for a seamless look.

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 32 (128) — increase evenly to expand brim base

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (128)

Info :

Brim shaping uses controlled increases to create a wide flat disc which will later be given waves. Maintain consistent tension and lay the brim flat as you work to avoid ruffling or buckling prematurely.

Round 4 :

(3 sc, inc) x 32 (160)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st around (160)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 32 (192)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st around (192)

Info :

At this point the brim is a large disc. To create a wavy edge similar to the sample, we will add a shaped edge using alternating increases and decreases in sections which produce the flowing scallops.

Round 8 :

(5 sc, inc) x 32 (224)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st around (224)

Info :

If your brim is too large for your liking, stop increasing earlier (for example at round 6 or 7) and begin wave shaping at a smaller diameter.

Wave Round 10 :

(3 sc, dec, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, dec) repeat around — this creates alternating shallow dips and raised scallops. Count should remain 224 if paired increases/decreases are even.

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st around (224)

Info :

Work the wave round slowly; map the repeats so the increases and decreases are symmetrically placed. If you prefer deeper waves, increase the number of consecutive increases in the scallop sections.

Round 12 :

FLO: 1 sc in each st FLO around (224) — this creates a subtle ridge that defines the brim edge

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st around (224)

Round 14 :

(2 sc, dec) x 56 (168) — begin narrowing slightly to help edge curl attractively

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st around (168)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, inc) x 42 (210) — optional puff to emphasize scallops; adjust to taste

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st around (210)

Info :

Fasten off and block the brim to set the waves. Wet block and pin the outer scallop points gently, letting the brim dry flat. This step is essential to make the brim look polished and to create the soft flowing edge in the sample image.

— Brim Edging (Optional Rope Trim) :

Step 1 :

Make a small cord: ch 40, sc back across the chain, sl st to join into a neat rope. Work 2 rows of sc for thickness. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Step 2 :

Sew cord along outer brim edge to emphasize the ripple and add weight to hang gracefully. Use tiny whipstitches in matching yarn.

Info :

The sample shows a subtle rolled edge finished with a tidy row that gives a polished look; if using cotton yarn, this edge will naturally sit crisply once blocked.

— Flower Applique (Large Flower) :

Make 1 large flower :

Round 1: With lighter pink, mr, ch1, 6 sc in mr (6). Pull ring tight and join with sl st to first sc.

Round 2 :

Ch1, (1 sc, ch3, 1 sc) in each st around, join (6 petals base)

Round 3 :

In each ch3 space: work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to form petals. Repeat in each space (6 petals)

Round 4 :

Ch1, sl st into base of each petal and picot tip: (sc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch) to create a decorative picot edge on each petal. Fasten off and weave tail to back.

Info :

Sew a small bead or French knot center in contrasting color into the flower center. The pictured large flower has layered petals and a decorative metal bead center — sew a small decorative bead or button into the center for finished look.

— Small Flowers & Buds (Make 4-6) :

Small Flower Round 1 :

mr, ch1, 5 sc in mr (5), join with sl st (5)

Round 2 :

Ch2, (dc, ch2, sl st in next st) repeat to create 5 tiny petals. Fasten off, weave in tails. Add bead centers as desired.

Bud :

Ch3, work 3 sc into second ch from hook, fasten off leaving tail; stitch a cluster of 3-4 buds into vine.

Info :

Make small flowers in the same yarn as main hat for color cohesion, or mix slightly lighter/darker pinks for depth. Sew beads into centers for sparkle as in the photo.

— Leaves and Vine (Make 6-10 leaves + vine) :

Leaf Round 1 :

With green yarn, ch8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc next, 3 dc in next ch (center point), hdc next, sc next. Sl st in next to finish leaf. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing.

Small Leaf :

Ch5, sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc in next, sc in last. Fasten off (smaller accent leaf).

Vine :

Ch60 (or long enough to wrap once around the hat base), sl st in each chain back along chain to form a flat chain, or make a 3-4 row cord for more body. Fasten off, leave long tails for sewing.

Info :

Arrange leaves and buds along the vine to match photo placement: a central large flower flanked by leaves and small flowers, with bead clusters and small hanging beads/charms. Use small glass beads on thread to mimic clear beads in image.

— Decorative Beads & Charm :

Info :

Attach beads and charms last. The sample has a brass moon charm dangling under the large flower; use a jump ring to attach charm to vine or sew through charm loop with strong thread. Add clear or pink glass beads stitched or wired to vine in small clusters.

Step :

Sew the large flower centrally onto hat base where the spiral ridge meets the brim. Arrange the vine so it wraps slightly around the cone and sew leaves and small flowers in place. Attach the moon charm to the main flower's base with a small jump ring or bar tack stitch.

Info :

If you plan to wash the hat often, avoid gluing charms and instead sew them with strong thread, or remove charms before washing.

— Extra Texture: Raised Spiral Rows (Optional) :

Round :

To add raised texture instead of a separate cord, work a row of front post single crochet (fpsc) spiraling up cone at desired positions: skip 6-8 rows, then fpsc each st around for one round. Continue with even rounds in between to build the ridge.

Info :

Front post or back post work defines ridges beautifully. In the sample the spiral ridge is more rope-like; choose the method that suits your skill and desired aesthetic.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all ends on the wrong side using a yarn needle, and trim excess. If you made separate brim and cone, sew them together with matching yarn and a neat mattress stitch. Block the entire hat gently to achieve smooth curves and set the brim waves.

Optional stiffening :

For a more structured brim, apply a diluted fabric starch or sew in a lightweight interfacing between brim rounds before finishing the outer edge. Test on scrap yarn first to avoid discoloration.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the crown to the brim by aligning the base rounds (the final round of the crown to the first round of the brim). If you worked the brim separately, pin the brim evenly around the base (96 base stitches -> match corresponding brim foundation stitches) and sew with whipstitch through both layers to create a neat seam.
  • Pin the spiral cord into position starting at the lower left side of the cone and wrapping up toward the tip with even spacing. Sew the cord with small slipstitches or whipstitches into the cone surface; hide ends under applique or inside the cone.
  • Position the large flower just above the brim, centered on the front of the hat where the spiral cord begins. Sew through both the flower and the hat with secure stitches and reinforce with a few extra passes for strength.
  • Lay the vine around the base of the cone and pin leaves and small flowers in a balanced composition. Sew leaves and small flowers firmly through both layers and knot inside; hide tails with a yarn needle.
  • Attach beads and charm last. Use small jump rings or strong thread to hang the brass moon charm from the central flower. Sew bead clusters along vine using clear or pink thread for a secure finish.
  • Block the brim by wetting lightly and pinning the scallops to a blocking board or towel. Allow to dry fully to set the wavy edge, then remove pins and do a final light steam if needed.
  • If using internal wire for the curl, ensure both ends are securely tucked and wrapped in yarn or tape before closing tip. Sew the base of the curled tube closed neatly and hide the wire end safely within the hat.
  • Weave in all loose ends on the wrong side and trim. For gifts, consider adding a small fabric label sewn into the seam under the brim.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuff cone tip lightly only if you want a soft internal form; too much stuffing will change the hat’s drape.
  • 💡Block the brim after finishing to set the waves; wet-blocking and pinning is the most effective method.
  • 💡If you plan to wash the hat, remove charms and beads or secure them with strong thread rather than glue.
  • 💡When sewing appliques, use small, neat stitches and weave yarn tails into seams rather than trimming too short.
  • 💡Adjust hook size if the fabric becomes too rigid (switch up) or too loose (switch down) to maintain hat silhouette.
  • 💡Test-fit frequently by placing the crown on the head or mannequin the hat is intended for to ensure comfortable circumference.
  • 💡Front/post or back/post stitches create texture but change gauge slightly; account for this when planning ridges or bands.

This big pink witch hat is a joyful blend of bold shape and delicate ornament — a statement accessory you'll love stitching and styling. Add beads, charms, or color changes to make each hat your own. Enjoy blocking the wide brim and shaping the curl to give your piece personality and motion. 🧶🌙 Make one for a special costume or display and savor every stitch! 🎀

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Based on the specified yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished hat measures approximately 11-13 inches (28-33 cm) from brim edge to tip and has a brim diameter of roughly 14-16 inches (36-41 cm). Variation in gauge or stopping increases earlier/later will change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Thicker yarn will produce a larger, stiffer hat; thinner yarn will make a smaller, drapier piece. Adjust your hook size down about 1-2 sizes from the yarn label recommendation for tight amigurumi-style fabric and up for softer drape.

Do I need internal wire for the curl tip?

No — the tip can be shaped and tacked into a curl with stitching alone. Wire or pipe cleaner provides a poseable curl and holds shape longer; be sure to wrap wire ends safely to prevent poking through fabric.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 200-250 g of main color yarn for the hat body and brim; add 30-40 g for large flower accents and 10-20 g for green leaves and vine. Small beads and charms require negligible yarn weight but add visual impact.

How do I make the brim wavy like the photo?

Waves are created by carefully alternating increases and decreases in the outer brim rounds, then wet-blocking the brim and pinning scallop points. Adjust increase frequency to make deeper or shallower waves.

Can children wear this hat?

Yes, but omit beads and metal charms for small children to avoid choking hazards. Alternatively, embroider decoration or make felt appliques for safety.

How do I clean the finished hat?

Spot clean where possible. If washing is necessary, hand wash gently and reshape on a towel; remove metal charms first and reattach after drying. Block the brim again if needed.

What hook size should I use?

The pattern uses a 3.5mm hook as a guideline to create dense fabric with worsted/DK weight yarn. If your tension is loose, use a smaller hook (3.25mm or 3.0mm) to prevent holes.