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Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern
4.8★ Rating
10-12 Hours Time Needed
3.1K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10+ hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

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About This Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

This pattern recreates a tall, sculpted witch hat with a dramatic curled tip and an embroidered garden of roses cascading down the cone. The main body is worked in a dense single crochet for structure, creating a firm surface to attach appliqued flowers and leaves. Roses are worked in layered spirals and petals to give a three-dimensional garden look. Vines are made as twisted cords and sewn in flowing lines; leaves are sculpted with BLO and shaping for crisp veins.

Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques used include top-down and base-up shaping, lace-like petal construction, and firm brim shaping. The finished piece is decorative and wearable with optional internal wire in the tip to help form the curl.

Why You'll Love This Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

I love this design because it blends structure and florals in a magical way — the tall spiral tip feels like something from a fairy tale while the layered roses give it a romantic garden vibe. Working the dense green cone creates a beautiful backdrop that makes the crimson and blush roses pop. I especially enjoy the tactile process of building each rose and arranging the vines by eye; it turns the hat into a unique handcrafted statement.

Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a clear, repeatable structure. Swap the rose colors for seasonal palettes, add metallic thread for a subtle shimmer, or work the vines in a brighter green for more contrast.

I often change the tip length and curl tightness: for a whimsical look I make a long, dramatic spiral with heavier wire; for a subtle style I keep a gentle twist with no wire. You can also scale the hat by using thicker yarn and a larger hook for a more theatrical piece, or a finer yarn for a delicate miniature version.

Finally, experiment with placement: cluster most roses on one side for an asymmetrical vintage vibe, or distribute them evenly for a balanced garden look. The construction method is forgiving, so feel free to alter proportions, petal sizes, and vine shapes to make this hat uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when joining rounds will make spiral shaping uneven and the brim wobble; mark the start of each round clearly ✗ Not checking stitch counts after increases can cause your brim or cone base circumference to mismatch when joining pieces ✗ Using yarn that is too soft or loose will make the brim floppy; choose a crisp worsted cotton or add interfacing/wire for structure ✗ Stuffing the curled tip too firmly can prevent a graceful curl; stuff lightly and add wire if you want a stable poseable curl ✗ Sewing roses in without pinning first can give a lopsided result; pin and step back to view placement before securing ✗ Carrying yarn colorwork through many rounds without weaving tails can create bulk and lumps; weave securely and trim close to interior stitches ✗ Working petals too tightly or too loosely alters size and drape; maintain consistent tension for even petals ✗ Not blocking leaves and roses (if using cotton) may reduce crisp petal definition; gentle blocking helps floral shapes hold their form

Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

A whimsical spiral witch hat richly decorated with layered roses, winding vines, and sculpted leaves. Worked in worsted cotton for crisp shaping, this hat features a tall curled tip, wide structured brim, and a delicate scalloped edge. The deep forest green base is accented with variegated olive vines and multi-tonal roses in crimson and blush. Perfect as a statement accessory or costume piece, this pattern breaks the project into clear components for cone, brim, tip, flowers, leaves and vines.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 200-240g in deep forest green (main hat color)
  • 02
    60-80g variegated olive/leaf green for vines and leaves
  • 03
    80-100g deep crimson for large and medium roses
  • 04
    40-60g blush/pale pink for accent roses and buds
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-20g each) of darker green and brown for leaf veins and rose centers

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (or hook recommended to achieve dense fabric)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for fine details and roses (optional)
  • 03
    1.75-2.5mm hook for tiny rosebuds (optional)
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill for lightly stuffing the curled tip and rose centers
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8) to mark round starts and placement
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and positioning appliques
  • 09
    Thin floral or craft wire (18-22 gauge) optional for poseable curled tip
  • 10
    Optional: Hat stiffener or fabric interfacing to strengthen brim
  • 11
    Optional: Small beads or buttons for rose centers if desired

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge and fabric density are important for hat structure. Aim for approximately 14 sc x 16 rows = 10cm using 3.5mm hook in worsted cotton, worked tightly so stuffing and appliques do not show through. Use a hook 0.5-1mm smaller than the yarn label if needed for dense amigurumi-like fabric.

— Brim (worked flat, base for cone attachment) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

These first 12 rounds create a firm foundation. If you want a slightly larger brim, continue increasing another 2-4 rounds following the same pattern. For the pictured hat I worked to Round 14 (84 sts) and used that inner row as my cone-attachment line.

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)

Info :

Mark this round with a removable stitch marker if you plan to sew the cone to the brim at this point. Round 14 (84 sts) is used in this pattern as the inner join row between brim and cone; you may alter to suit head size.

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (84)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st BLO (84)

Round 17-20 :

1 sc in each st (84)

Info :

Working a BLO round creates a small ridge where the cone will join and helps the brim keep its shape. If you prefer a softer brim, skip the BLO and work plain sc rounds.

Round 21 :

(8 sc, inc) x 9 (93)

Round 22 :

(9 sc, inc) x 9 (102)

Round 23 :

(10 sc, inc) x 9 (111)

Round 24 :

(11 sc, inc) x 9 (120)

Info :

Rounds 21-24 increase the outer brim for a wider decorative edge; adjust or stop earlier for a smaller brim. Keep counts accurate: each round adds 9 increases because the starting rounds after 84 sts are worked in groups of nine when expanding a large circle (you can map increases evenly).

Round 25 :

1 sc in each st (120)

Round 26 :

1 sc in next st, *ch2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next* - repeat around to create subtle eyelet texture (approx 40 ch2-spaces)

Info :

If you prefer a denser brim like the photo (no eyelets), work R26 as 1 sc in each st. The pictured hat uses a close fabric with a decorative scallop edge; eyelets are optional for lace effect.

Round 27 :

Scallop edge: *skip next st, 5 dc in next, skip next st, sl st in next* repeat around to give a ruffled scalloped trim (approx 40 scallops)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends neatly. Block the brim lightly to smooth out shape; apply light starch or hat stiffener if you desire a rigid brim. Keep the inner join (Round 14) accessible for attaching the cone.

— Cone (base-up shaping to tall point) :

Info :

Work cone separately from brim and sew it to Round 14 (84 sts) on the brim, or build the cone directly from that round by working up from the brim inner round. This cone is constructed base-up: join yarn at your prepared brim attachment point, or start from a magic ring and work increases to 84 sts if making separately.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)

Info :

If you worked the brim and left Round 14 free, align cone Round 14 (84 sts) with brim Round 14 (84 sts) and test fit by pinning with sewing pins. The cone should comfortably fit the inner brim circle without puckering.

Round 15-40 :

1 sc in each st (84)

Info :

These even rounds form the tall straight wall of the cone. Work as many rounds as needed to achieve desired height; pictured hat used 40 even rounds for a long, dramatic cone. Place a marker every 10 rounds to keep count.

Round 41 :

(11 sc, dec) x 6 (78)

Round 42 :

(10 sc, dec) x 6 (72)

Round 43 :

(9 sc, dec) x 6 (66)

Round 44 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (60)

Info :

Begin tapering the cone to produce the signature point. These evenly spaced decreases reduce circumference by 6 stitches each round. Keep tension consistent and check for lumps.

Round 45 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 46 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 47 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 48 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

As the cone narrows, stitch counts drop predictably. Ensure your decreases are worked as sc2tog for a neat invisible decrease and to avoid bulky seams inside the hat.

Round 49 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 50 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 51 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 52 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing if you will hand-sew the cone to the brim. At this point the cone is a closed pointed top. For the curled tip used in the photo, we will create a spiral tip separately and attach it to the top center, or alternatively, leave a longer opening at the top before final closure to insert the tip wire and tube.

— Curled Tip Tube (poseable internal core) :

Info :

The curled tip in the photos is a tubular spiral that is firm yet bendable. Work a narrow tube and insert thin floral wire, or crochet a spiral 'hose' and stuff lightly. The tube is then seamed into the cone top and curled to shape.

Round 1 :

Make a chain of 40 (or desired length) then join with sl st to form a ring, careful not to twist (40 ch joined)

Round 2 :

Ch1, 1 sc in each ch around (40)

Round 3-12 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Info :

Make the tube as long as you want the curled tip to be. For the pictured long spiral with a tight curl at the end, a 12-round tube of 40 sts gave a good length. If you prefer a longer curl, add more length in multiples of 4-6 chains.

Round 13 :

Stuff tube lightly with fiberfill (do not overstuff) and insert 18-22 gauge wire down the center. Fold and bend wire to desired curl, leaving a small tail inside the cone to sew into the top securely

Round 14 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. If you want a spiral with a textured outer surface, work alternating BLO and FLO rounds for subtle ridges before stuffing.

Info :

To attach: sew tube opening to the top center of the cone (the small MR closure) with secure whipstitches, then shape the curl by bending wire carefully. Cover joint with a small flower or leaf for a neat finish.

— Large Rose (make 3-4) :

Info :

Roses are made by creating a long spiral strip of petals and then rolling and sewing. Work the spiral flat, using repeated petal rows, then roll from center outwards to form layered petals. Use deep crimson for the main large roses as in photo.

Round 1 :

With 3.0mm hook and crimson yarn, ch 60 (or 60-80 for larger roses) - leave long tail for sewing center

Round 2 :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (59) - turn work and do not join; you will work along one long edge to create petals

Round 3 :

*ch3, skip next st, sl st in next* across the length to create loops for petals (approx 20 loops)

Round 4 :

Working into each loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each loop to form a petal. Repeat across the entire strip

Round 5 :

On the opposite long edge, repeat loops: *ch3, skip next st, sl st* across, then work petal clusters into those loops: (sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc)

Info :

Alternate petal heights as you move along to create a full layered look. You can add an extra row of larger petals at the outer edge for a more dramatic bloom.

Round 6 :

Repeat a final outer petal row: make loops and work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) into each loop for a ruffled outer edge

Round 7 :

Fasten off, leaving long tail. Roll the strip tightly from one end to create the rose center, then stitch through the base at regular intervals to secure. Adjust petals, tugging them outward for a natural appearance.

Info :

If you prefer layered petals in concentric spirals, create a spiral base by making 2-3 long strips of decreasing length and stack them when rolling; this adds volume without making a single very long strip.

— Medium Rose (make 4-6) :

Round 1 :

Ch 40, sc in 2nd ch and across (39)

Round 2 :

*ch3, skip next, sl st* across to form loops (approx 12 loops)

Round 3 :

Work into each loop: (sc, 2 dc, sc) for tighter, smaller petals. Repeat along whole strip

Round 4 :

Repeat outer petal row with slightly taller clusters: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc)

Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving long tail and roll into rose, securing with small hidden stitches at base

Info :

Use slightly lighter blush pink for some medium roses to create contrast and depth. Vary strip lengths to create variety in bloom sizes.

— Small Rosebud (make 8-12) :

Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch and across (11)

Round 2 :

*ch2, skip next, sl st* across to create 4-5 loops

Round 3 :

Into each loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) - leave strip unrolled and roll lightly so the bud is compact; secure at base

Info :

Rosebuds are tacked to the hat with a few invisible stitches and positioned at ends of vines or tucked near larger roses for realism.

— Leaves (make 16-24) :

Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch and next 4 (5 sc) then 3 hdc in next, 3 dc in next, 3 hdc in next, sc in remaining chs across. Turn and sc across back edge to form both sides of leaf (approx 10-12 sts total)

Round 2 :

Repeat leaf shape or work a textured leaf: ch 10, *sl st in next, hdc in next 2, 2 dc in next, hdc in next 2, sl st* - fasten off

Info :

Work leaves in variegated olive shades or two-toned yarn for natural vein variation. Block leaves flat and add a few surface stitches down the middle for a raised vein if desired.

Round 3 :

For vein detail: Using contrasting darker green, embroider a line of sl st down the center and small V veins to each side. Secure ends and weave in.

— Vines (twisted cords) :

Round 1 :

Make a chain of 120 (or desired length for one vine), then work 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook and across to create a firm cord (approx 119 sc)

Round 2 :

Alternatively work crochet i-cord: ch 30, fold, work sc through both loops along chain edge to make a thick cord; continue until desired length

Round 3 :

Twist cords slightly and block; use a few stitches to tack into position on hat when arranging vines

Info :

Make multiple cords of varying lengths, braid small sections or create loops to wrap around the cone. The pictured hat uses three main vine lines cascading down the cone and several short tendrils around roses.

— Assembly & Placement :

Info :

Arrange large roses first to anchor the look: position one large rose front-right, another back-left, and a third slightly lower; place medium roses and buds in clusters and weave vines between them. Pin pieces to the cone and brim before sewing to ensure pleasing composition.

Round 1 :

Sew cone to brim: align cone base (Round 14 = 84 sts) with brim Round 14 (84 sts). Using yarn tail from cone, whipstitch evenly through both edges matching every stitch. Use an even tension to avoid puckers

Info :

After cone is attached, reinforce seam with a second pass if needed. Use small hidden stitches to attach vines and leaves, then overlay roses on top of seams and vine junctions to hide joins.

Round 2 :

Secure vines by stitching along their length at intervals (every 6-10 stitches) so they lay flat against the cone and follow the desired curve

Round 3 :

Sew leaves at vine junctions and under petals with a few secure whipstitches. Tuck small buds by the base of larger roses and secure tightly.

Info :

Use disappearing thread or matching yarn for nearly invisible attachment. If a wire is used in the tip, also tack the wire tail to the cone interior to secure the curl permanently.

— Extra Decorative Detailing :

Round 1 :

For vine ivy texture, use sl st or reverse sc to create raised twisted stitches along vine cords before sewing them on

Round 2 :

For leaf edging, work a tiny picot edge around the leaf: *dc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch* around outer edge for delicate serration

Round 3 :

Add bead centers: sew a small seed bead or French knot (embroidery floss) into the center of a few roses for sparkle

Info :

Small accents like bead centers, few embroidered tendrils, or a slightly variegated yarn for leaves elevate realism. Use pins to preview each accent before permanent attachment.

— Finishing Touches :

Round 1 :

Weave all loose ends into the interior of the hat and trim closely. Use a yarn needle to bury ends in the cone fabric to prevent unraveling

Round 2 :

Steam-block the hat gently on a rounded form (platter or head-block) to shape the cone and set the brim. Avoid direct heat on wool blends; use a damp cloth and steam sparingly on cotton

Info :

For wearable stability, consider sewing a small ribbon or narrow elastic inside the brim that fits comfortable to the wearer's head size. This helps the hat stay in place while worn.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach cone to brim by aligning cone base Round 14 (84 sts) with brim Round 14 (84 sts). Pin evenly around the circumference, then sew using whipstitch through both layers, taking one stitch per brim stitch and one per cone stitch for even attachment
  • Position large roses first: pin one large rose at cone rounds approx 18-22 on right front, another at rounds 24-28 back-left, and a third at rounds 10-14 lower front. Sew through each rose base using long tail and secure with multiple small stitches
  • Place medium roses and buds in complementing clusters around the large roses at cone rounds 12-30 and along vines. Sew leaves under petals at vine junctions using ladder stitch for invisible seams
  • Attach vines starting near the top cone area and trailing down; tack vines at regular intervals (every 6-10 stitches) to hold shape. Cross vines over and under roses to integrate pieces naturally
  • Sew the curled tip tube to the top center of the cone at the magic ring closure; anchor the wire tail inside the cone with secure stitches and cover the seam with a small rose or leaf
  • Weave in all tails into the cone interior and tie off securely. If using beads for centers, sew them on last and secure with a double knot and hidden tail weaving
  • Optional: attach thin wire to the brim edge internally for additional structure; slip wire into a narrow channel created by folding the outermost row and making a hidden seam to sandwich the wire
  • Block hat on a rounded form (bowl/head-block) and steam lightly to set shape; arrange petals and leaves after blocking for final presentation

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff the curled tip lightly and insert wire for poseable structure rather than overstuffing, which prevents natural curl
  • 💡Sew decorations with small, tight stitches to prevent petals and vines from shifting during wear
  • 💡For a stable brim, use cotton or mercerized yarn and consider a lightweight interfacing or internal wire channel in the final row of the brim
  • 💡Keep tension even across increases and decreases; inconsistent tension causes puckers or uneven surfaces where flowers attach
  • 💡Always pin and preview placement of roses and vines before sewing to achieve a balanced composition
  • 💡If your stitch count is off by a small amount when attaching cone to brim, adjust by spacing tucks or adding small invisible increases to ease fabric
  • 💡Use matching yarn for attachment stitches for an invisible finish and weave ends into the cone interior for durability

You did it — a magical Big Rose Garden Spiral Witch Hat that combines structural crochet with romantic floral appliques, perfect for costuming or display. Each rose and leaf adds personality and charm, turning the hat into a wearable piece of art. Celebrate every stitch — this handcrafted accessory makes a stunning statement and a wonderful gift. 🌹🧶✨

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Using worsted cotton and the specified hook sizes, the finished hat measures approximately 15-18 inches (38-46 cm) from brim edge to the top of the curled tip when measured along the cone; brim diameter is approximately 14-16 inches (35-40 cm). Exact size depends on yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use different yarn weights, but you must adjust hook sizes accordingly. A thicker yarn will yield a larger, stiffer hat; a thinner yarn will be smaller and may require more rounds for the brim to keep proportion. For structure, choose a yarn with low halo (cotton, mercerized cotton, linen blends).

Do I need to use wire in the curled tip?

Wire is optional but recommended if you want the curl to hold a specific pose. Insert 18-22 gauge floral wire into the crocheted tube before stuffing lightly; secure the wire tail inside the cone to anchor it. If you prefer a soft curl, omit wire and shape with stuffing and stitches.

How much stuffing will I need for the curled tip?

A small amount of polyester fiberfill (about 10-20 grams) is sufficient for the curled tip tube. Stuff lightly to retain pliability for shaping; overstuffing makes the tip stiff and harder to curve naturally.

Can I wash this hat?

If using cotton yarn, hand wash gently in cool water and reshape while damp. Avoid machine washing if the hat contains wire or glued stiffeners. Air dry on a rounded form to keep the cone and brim shape intact.

What if my cone and brim stitch counts don't match when attaching?

If counts differ slightly, ease the cone into the brim opening by creating small gathering stitches (tiny tucks) or add spaced increases/decreases along the join to compensate. Pin and adjust until the seam lies flat before sewing.

Can I make the roses and vines permanently removable?

Yes — sew on small snaps or use safety pins under flower bases for removable decoration. This is useful for cleaning the hat separately or changing the floral layout seasonally.

How do I prevent holes when sewing appliques?

Use small, tight stitches close to the edge of appliques and pass the yarn needle through multiple interior stitches. If attaching to a very open fabric, consider backing the attachment area with a small circular fabric patch or applying a dense foundation round to the cone before sewing.