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Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern

Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the adorable skull planter pictured: a rounded white skull-shaped pot with bold black eye appliques, two small embroidered nostrils, and a stitched smile across the lower face. A ring of dark yarn defines the rim and base edge, and a cluster of five sculptural green succulent leaves sits inside. The finished piece is small and portable — perfect for a desk or shelf.

Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern focuses on amigurumi techniques worked in continuous rounds, appliques, and surface embroidery for the face. The succulent leaves are crocheted cones that are lightly stuffed and sewn into a small internal soil disc for stability.

Why You'll Love This Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern

I love how playful and sculptural this little planter is — it blends amigurumi character with a practical home accent. The bold black facial features give it instant personality, and those sculpted green leaves add a pop of life that contrasts beautifully with the white skull. I also enjoy how forgiving the construction is: the pot is sturdy, and the removable succulent allows for creative color swaps.

Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this skull succulent planter because it is such a playful intersection of amigurumi and home decor — the bold black-eye appliques and stitched smile give the planter instant personality while the sculptural leaves keep it alive (in yarn form!).

You can easily customize this pattern: try pastel greens for a delicate succulent, or autumn hues for a seasonal twist. For a dramatic effect, switch the skull color to cream or light gray and use variegated greens for the leaves. If you want a larger piece, use bulky yarn with a larger hook; for a tiny desk-sized version, use sport weight yarn and a smaller hook.

I often change the mouth embroidery to playful expressions or add tiny flowers tucked among the leaves for a more whimsical result. The construction is forgiving — adjust the number of leaf rounds to make the leaves longer or shorter, and play with spacing of the appliques to change the character's expression. Most of all, have fun making the design your own!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results ✗ Placing appliques before checking symmetry leads to lopsided features; always pin and count stitches before sewing down eyes ✗ Pulling embroidery yarn too tight when stitching the mouth can pull fabric in; keep surface stitches snug but not constricting ✗ Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi yarn will produce holes where stuffing shows; choose a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends

Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern

A charming skull-shaped crochet planter that doubles as a cute amigurumi pot for a small handmade succulent. This pattern recreates the white skull pot with black eye patches and stitched mouth, and a lush cluster of green crocheted succulent leaves that fit snugly inside. Worked in continuous rounds with clear shaping, this project makes a great desk accent or unique gift.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Skull Succulent Planter Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 120g in main color White
  • 02
    50-60g in accent color Black for eye appliques, mouth embroidery, and base rim
  • 03
    80-100g in Leaf Green for succulent leaves
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g) in Dark Charcoal (or Black) for the bottom rim and soil disk

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (adjust if needed for your tension)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 06
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 07
    Optional: small amount of florist wire or pipe cleaner for poseable succulent leaves
  • 08
    Optional: pins for assembly
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing tail ends

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Skull Pot (Body) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using Dark Charcoal (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

These first 3 rounds form the base rim in Dark Charcoal. This gives the planter a solid base and clean dark edge visible around the bottom. Keep these rounds tight and do not stuff yet.

Info :

Change to White yarn on last stitch of Round 3 by pulling White through and working Round 4 with White to create the main skull color. Carry the Dark Charcoal inside the pot or fasten off securely.

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

You should have 60 sts after Round 10; this circumference forms the widest part of the pot. Use a stitch marker to mark the start of rounds; we will now build up height in even rounds.

Round 11-18 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

Work 8 rounds even to create the skull's mid-curve. Check for even tension so the face embroidery will sit smooth. At the end of Round 14 measure height — the skull face area will occupy about 6-8 even rounds.

Round 19 :

(8 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (54)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Begin placing features: the two black eye appliques will be positioned symmetrically at the front. Mark the center front stitch (use a removable marker) and test-fit appliques before sewing.

Round 21 :

(7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 23 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

Round 23-24 bring the pot into a slightly narrower lower face curve. This is a good time to tack the bottom of your appliques in place temporarily (pins or small basting stitches) to check spacing for the nose and mouth.

Round 25 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 26 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 27 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 28 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

These rounds form the lower jaw area and will sit behind the embroidered stitched smile. Leave the body fairly open — we will create an internal small soil disk later and close the pot slightly so the succulent sits snugly.

Round 29 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

At Round 30 you have a smaller opening. We'll add 1-2 rounds of Dark Charcoal atop the white to define the top rim. Change to Dark Charcoal in the last stitch of Round 30.

Round 31 :

1 sc in each st using Dark Charcoal (24)

Round 32 :

1 sc in each st using Dark Charcoal (24)

Info :

These two rounds create the inner rim/soil edge. You can optionally work the last round in BLO to create a small ridge so the succulent sits more snugly. Fasten off leaving a 20-30 cm tail for weaving in.

Round 33 :

Change back to White on next stitch and work 1 sc in each st around (24)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew bottom shut or weave into the pot bottom if you prefer the pot fully closed. Most planters are open; if you want to close slightly to hold the soil disk, weave the tail through the top loop and cinch slightly, but allow enough opening for the succulent base piece.

— Bottom Finishing (optional) :

Info :

If you would like a sturdier base you can make a small circular disk, sew it across the bottom, or leave the opening and insert a felt or plastic coaster inside for stability. To close: use the long tail and stitch through remaining 24 sts in rounds of paired decreases until closed.

— Eye Appliques (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using Black (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-7 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

These rounds produce a flat disc that will be shaped slightly into an oval by sewing down edges and stretching the top slightly. To make a teardrop/oval, after Round 7 use a short decrease shaping on the top edge to create the narrower top: Round 8: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 8 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (24) — Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Block lightly if you want a flatter applique. Position one applique on either side of the center front; count stitches so the ovals are about 8-10 stitches apart across the vertical center line depending on desired spacing. Use the long tail to mattress stitch down the appliques, anchoring at several points around the perimeter for a smooth finish.

— Nose Teardrops (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring using Black (4)

Round 2 :

4 sc (4)

Round 3 :

2 sc, inc, 1 sc (5) — shape into a tiny teardrop, fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew the two small teardrops just beneath and between the eyes with their rounded sides facing up to mimic the stylized nostrils seen on the skull. You can embroider a thin satin stitch with the tail if you prefer to use embroidery instead of appliques.

— Mouth Embroidery :

Info :

We will create the stitched smile using Black yarn and a yarn needle. The mouth is a horizontal line across the lower face with vertical short stitches for teeth. Mark a horizontal stitch line across the lower front corresponding roughly to Rounds 25-28 to match photos.

Step 1 :

Thread a length of Black yarn (about 50-70cm) onto your yarn needle. Starting at the left side of the mouth line, run a running stitch (small back-and-forth) through the pot fabric to create the baseline of the smile. Keep stitches small and even.

Step 2 :

For teeth, insert the needle from the underside of the baseline then out on the baseline. Make vertical stitches approx 3-5 mm long extending above the baseline into the white area and back down through the baseline to the inside. Space teeth at regular intervals; in the sample there are about 7-9 teeth visible across the front. Secure ends inside and weave in.

Info :

Do not pull embroidery too tight; test tension on a scrap to get even lines. If you prefer a raised look, use a second pass of embroidery knots for each tooth.

— Soil Disk (Inner Support) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using Dark Charcoal or Black (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-6 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

This disk will be lightly stuffed and sewn or placed inside the pot opening to provide a secure anchor for the succulent leaf bases. Stuff lightly so it sits flush under the rim and does not bulge the pot sides.

Round 7 :

Start decreasing if you want a slight domed disk: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (18) — Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing into the pot

Info :

Sew disk into the interior of the pot around the top rim (Dark Charcoal rounds) so the succulent stems can be sewn to the disk and remain stable.

— Succulent Leaves (Make 5; Center leaf is slightly larger) :

Info :

Each leaf is crocheted as an elongated cone, worked in continuous rounds, lightly stuffed, and sewn into the soil disk. Use Leaf Green. Make 4 identical side leaves and 1 taller center leaf (center leaf uses 4 extra even rounds before decreasing).

Leaf (Side) - Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using Leaf Green (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-16 :

1 sc in each st (48) — work 8 even rounds to build length

Info :

Lightly stuff the leaf as you go once you have about 6-8 even rounds completed so the leaf keeps its shape but is still flexible. If you want a stiffer leaf, insert a short piece of florist wire to the center before stuffing: leave ends folded into the base.

Round 17 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 19 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 21 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 23 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 25 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 26 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 27 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 28 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 29 :

6 dec (6) — fasten off leaving long tail for sewing; finish stuffing tip firmly

Info :

Sew the leaf base flat and tight to the soil disk; shape the leaf by slightly flattening the base and curving the tip. Make 4 of these side leaves.

Center Leaf - Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using Leaf Green (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-20 :

1 sc in each st (48) — work 12 even rounds for a taller center leaf

Info :

The center leaf is taller; stuff as you go. If you like a more tapered look, begin decreases one round earlier. Insert wire if you want the leaf to stand perfectly upright, wrapping the wire end and covering it with stuffing before closing the tip.

Round 21 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 23 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 25 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 26 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 27 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 28 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 29 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 31 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 32 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 33 :

6 dec (6) — fasten off leaving long tail to sew; finish stuffing tip firmly

Info :

Make 1 center leaf and 4 side leaves. The leaves should be lightly stuffed and shaped so they curve outward slightly. If you used wire, be sure the wire ends are folded into the base and not poking out before sewing into the soil disk.

— Assembly & Joining :

Info :

Before final sewing, layout the leaves around the soil disk to determine the optimal arrangement. The center leaf sits in back-center or middle; the four side leaves are placed evenly around it to create the crown shape visible in the photos.

Step 1 :

Sew the soil disk into the pot under the Dark Charcoal rim. Use the long tail from the disk and secure with small whipstitches to the inside of the pot around the rim so it sits level and stable.

Step 2 :

Using the long tails from each leaf, sew each leaf base to the soil disk at the placement points you chose. Use dense stitches around the base to ensure they do not wobble; reinforce with extra stitches where needed.

Step 3 :

Sew the eye appliques to the front of the pot centered around the vertical midline. Measuring: with 60-48-... counts earlier, place appliques so the widest points align roughly between Rounds 13-18 of the pot. Leave enough space so the nose teardrops sit just beneath the inner edges.

Step 4 :

Sew the small nose teardrops just under the eyes, then complete the mouth embroidery as described. Hide ends inside the pot and weave them securely.

Info :

After assembly, adjust leaf angles and add a few invisible stitches at critical points to lock the shape. If any seams are visible outside, run a thread of matching yarn through nearby stitches and cinch gently for a cleaner finish.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach soil disk inside the pot under the Dark Charcoal rim. Pin it in place and sew through the pot's top rounds using the disk's long tail. Sew evenly around the disk so it sits flush and stable.
  • Position the 4 side leaves around the disk, spacing them evenly (approximately every 90 degrees). Sew each leaf base thoroughly to the disk using several passes to secure; use additional stitches through the pot inner wall if needed.
  • Place the center taller leaf at the center-back of the disk and sew in place, reinforcing where its base meets the disk for vertical stability.
  • Pin the two black eye appliques to the front of the pot so they are symmetrical around the vertical center line — aim for the full eye height to sit between Rounds 13-18 from the base. Sew down with mattress stitch for a smooth edge.
  • Sew the two small nose teardrops into place between the eyes and slightly above the stitched mouth baseline. Use the applique tails or embroidery to finish.
  • Embroider the stitched smile across the lower face (Rounds 25-28 region), creating a horizontal baseline and vertical short stitch teeth. Secure all yarn ends inside the pot and weave in at least 5cm before trimming.
  • Weave in and secure any remaining tail ends inside the pot, and adjust leaf positions for the desired look. If you want a removable succulent, leave minimal stitching so the leaf cluster can be removed carefully.
  • Optional: Add a small bit of glue on inner seams for long-term durability if the planter will be handled frequently.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like the leaf cones
  • 💡For appliques and safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use a yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
  • 💡Keep a row counter or notepad to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections

This adorable skull succulent planter brings personality and charm to any desk or shelf. Each stitch builds a tiny world — the bold face details and sculptural leaves make it a delightful handmade accent. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as the finished piece — it's a small project that packs a big personality! 🧶🌿 Share your version and get creative with colors. Happy crocheting! 🎨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on worsted weight yarn and the recommended hooks, the finished planter measures approximately 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) tall including succulent leaves and about 8-9 cm (3-3.5 inches) wide at the widest point. Using thicker yarn will proportionally enlarge the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn label recommends to keep the amigurumi fabric tight). Different yarn weights will change final size and may require adjusting stitch counts.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work well. The pattern uses appliques and embroidery to achieve the skull look. Safety eyes are not necessary; embroidered or crocheted appliques are ideal and safer for gifts intended for children.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this small planter and five leaves, approximately 30-50 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff leaves lightly for flexibility and the soil disk moderately so it supports the leaf cluster.

Can I make the leaves poseable?

Yes. Insert florist wire or pipe cleaners inside each leaf before stuffing, ensuring the wire ends are wrapped and folded into the base. This allows shaping while keeping the stitches intact.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice an error, unravel back to the last round where counts matched. It's easier to fix mistakes early than to compensate later, which could distort the shape. Use stitch markers to help maintain accurate counts.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with slightly tighter tension and use a smaller hook than recommended for the yarn when making amigurumi. Stuff in small amounts for even distribution and use the right amount of stuffing to prevent the filling from showing through stitches.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely. Try different yarn colors for the skull, rim, and leaves. You can also change the number, shape, and height of leaves to make seasonal or themed versions. Adding beads or tiny decorations to the leaves creates unique looks.