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Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern

Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern
4.1β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

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About This Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a sitting black dragon wearing a floppy purple witch hat. Key visible features include large purple-rimmed safety eyes, deep purple wing membranes edged in black, a row of purple dorsal spikes, and a broom-like braided tail tassel in brown with a purple knot. The dragon sits upright with rounded feet, short arms, and a slightly extended muzzle for an expressive face. The hat is tall and floppy with a wide brim and a contrasting hat-band.

Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is built modularly β€” head, separate muzzle, body, arms, legs, wings, spikes, tail braid and tassel, and the crochet hat β€” so you can customize sizes and colors easily. Detailed Info sections guide placement of eyes, stuffing, and assembly for a neat finish.

Why You'll Love This Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with whimsical seasonal details β€” the witch hat and broom tassel give the dragon character. I enjoy the contrast between the dense black body and bright purple accents; those big rimmed eyes and scalloped spikes make it unbelievably expressive. The modular construction makes assembly predictable and satisfying, and I know you'll have fun personalizing the colors and hat trim.

Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The modular construction makes it easy to swap details β€” try using a deep green instead of purple for a more classic dragon or use metallic yarn for the hat band for a sparkling accent.

I recommend adjusting the hat height and brim diameter to change personality: a taller hat makes a whimsical look, while a wider brim gives a more dramatic silhouette. For the tail, you can replace the braided broom tassel with a tuft of yarn pom-pom for a playful variation.

Finally, consider adding tiny removable accessories like a crocheted broomstick, scarf or cloak. These simple swaps let you create themed variations (Halloween, winter, or birthday) while following the same basic assembly and shaping steps.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round βœ— Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project βœ— Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results βœ— Forgetting to secure safety eyes before stuffing can shift their placement; insert and lock eyes at the recommended round before heavy stuffing βœ— Incorrect decrease placement near shaping can distort facial features; count carefully and keep decreases evenly spaced βœ— Failing to pin pieces before sewing can result in asymmetrical assembly; always pin and eyeball placement from multiple angles before stitching

Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming witch-themed dragon amigurumi with a floppy purple witch hat, contrasting purple wing membranes and dorsal spikes, and a broomstick-style braided tail tassel. This pattern uses worsted-weight yarn and produces a plush, poseable sitting dragon perfect for seasonal decor or a cuddly companion. Detailed round-by-round instructions, assembly tips, and finishing notes included for a polished, professional result.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Witch Dragon with Purple Hat and Broomstick Tail Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-240g in main color (Black for body and details)
  • 02
    80-100g in accent color A (Deep Purple for hat, wing membrane, dorsal spikes, tail braid accents)
  • 03
    40-50g in accent color B (Dark Plum or maroon for hat-band accent seen on brim)
  • 04
    25-35g in brown for broom tassel (medium brown)
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-15g) of bright purple for eye rims and small details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (recommended for worsted yarn, adjust based on your gauge)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter details and hat brim edge
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook for small spikes or claws (optional)
  • 04
    Safety eyes 18mm with purple washers (or two 16-18mm depending on preference)
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (approx. 50-80g total)
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round starts and feature positions
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Optional: Pipe cleaners or floral wire for lightly poseable wings or tail
  • 11
    Optional: Fabric glue for extra secure hats or small trims

Progress Tracker

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β€” Gauge & Tips :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for amigurumi but tight stitches help prevent stuffing from showing. With worsted yarn and 3.5mm hook, 10 sc x 10 rows measures roughly 4" x 4". Use a smaller hook for tighter fabric if needed. Keep a consistent stitch marker at the start of each round.

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 13-14, approximately 10-12 sts apart measured across the round (this gives the wide, expressive look). Mark where the eyes will go before continuing. If using 18mm eyes, position holes so the rims sit flush with stitches.

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 17 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

These rounds widen the upper muzzle and brow β€” this makes room for the separate muzzle piece to sit naturally when attached. If you prefer an integrated muzzle, reduce these increases and follow the muzzle shaping section directly onto the head body.

Round 19 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 20-22 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

Begin gentle stuffing at round 22-23 to fill the top of the head lightly. Stuff later more firmly as you shape the jaw. Use small amounts of fiberfill to avoid lumps.

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 24 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 25 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 26 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 27 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Increase stuffing density here so the head keeps a round shape. Check eye spacing again and make sure the eyes are level. If you need deeper cheek definition, add a few stitches of extra stuffing behind the eyes.

Round 28 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 29 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 30 :

6 dec (6) - leave long tail and fasten off; finish stuffing and close with needle

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. We finished the top of the head; next attach the separate muzzle for the distinctive snout shape visible in the photos.

β€” Muzzle / Snout (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-6 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 9 :

6 dec (6) - leave long tail for sewing; lightly stuff the muzzle so it keeps a soft rounded front

Info :

Sew muzzle onto lower front of head: align its center under the eyes, pin in place and baste with long tail. Use mattress stitch or whip stitch to join seamlessly. Add a tiny amount of stuffing behind the outer nose to maintain shape before final closure.

β€” Neck & Upper Body Join :

Info :

We will attach the head to the body after the body is worked up to the neck opening. Position the head so that the front feet will sit under the chin and the neck lines up with the top 8-10 rounds of the body. Do not permanently sew until both pieces are stuffed and pinned in position.

β€” Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-11 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

If adding the hat as sewn-on accessory later, keep the top rounds even to create a stable neck opening. Mark the front center of the body with a pin to align head and legs.

Round 12 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 13-17 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Start stuffing the lower body around round 15; add even amounts of stuffing as you proceed. The body sits upright so the belly should be firm but not rock-hard.

Round 18 :

(4 sc, dec) x 8 (40)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, dec) x 8 (32)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, dec) x 8 (24)

Round 21 :

(1 sc, dec) x 8 (16)

Round 22 :

8 dec (8)

Info :

Leave a long tail for joining to the lower torso if you prefer to close and then create a base disc for stability. Alternatively, stop decreases earlier and sew legs onto a wider base for a sturdy sitting posture. We will create separate legs and attach to the belly for a natural seated look.

β€” Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 8 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Stuff foot section firmly through round 9-10 to create a plump rounded foot. Add a small disc of felt if you want extra stability in the sole (optional).

Round 13 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14-18 :

1 sc in each st (12) - continue stuffing lightly for lower leg

Round 19 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (8)

Round 20 :

4 dec (4) - leave a long tail for sewing to body; do not close completely if you want to insert a small dowel or pipe cleaner for extra stability

Info :

Sew legs to bottom of body at the base rounds where you left the belly slightly wider (body rounds 12-14 are a good match). Place legs evenly spaced from the center front; test the seated posture before final sewing.

β€” Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-5 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 6 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3 (9)

Round 7-11 :

1 sc in each st (9) - lightly stuff hand area

Info :

Arm length is short for the sitting posture; stuff palms firmly and arms lightly. If you want poseable arms, insert a thin pipe cleaner before closing and secure the ends by bending them back into a small loop covered with yarn.

Round 12 :

(1 sc, dec) x 3 (6)

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (6) - leave long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew arms to sides of body around body rounds 14-17 so the hands rest slightly on the belly. Use a ladder stitch to create a smooth seam and secure strongly with several passes through the body and arm bases.

β€” Ears / Small Horns (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 2 (6)

Round 3-4 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 5 :

(1 sc, dec) x 2 (4)

Round 6 :

4 sc (4) - fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew these ear shapes to the top sides of the head between rounds 10-12, slightly angled back. The image shows small curled horns; if preferred, twist the piece slightly while sewing for that curled look.

β€” Dorsal Spikes (Make 11) :

Round 1 :

5 sc in magic ring (5)

Round 2 :

5 inc (10)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (10)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc (8)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (8) - fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew spikes down the center of the back from head base to near the tail base. The photo shows bright purple scalloped spikes; use accent color for these. Space them evenly (about every 4-6 stitches along the vertebrae depending on spacing).

β€” Tail Core :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-8 :

1 sc in each st (18) - work even to create tail length

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4 (14)

Round 10-12 :

1 sc in each st (14)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 (10)

Round 14-18 :

1 sc in each st (10) - leave a long tail at the base for sewing to the body; do not stuff fully if you will braid or wrap thicker yarn around the end

Info :

The visible tail has a braided/broom style tassel at the tip. Work the tail core to the desired length (approx 12-16 rounds before taper depending on your scale) and ensure the end is long enough to loop through the braid for secure assembly.

β€” Tail Braid & Broom Tassel :

Info :

Make a 60-80 chain using accent purple yarn doubled or tripled depending on thickness. Braid three strands together including or wrapping around the tail core. Secure with several embroidery stitches and wrap a contrasting brown yarn around the tip to create a broom tassel base. Finish with long brown strands knotted under the wrap to create a thick tassel.

Round 1 (Broom Knot) :

Chain 40 with triple strands then fold and braid to desired length; finish by wrapping brown yarn tightly 6-8 times and tie off (no numeric stitch count)

Info :

Trim tassel ends evenly and glue or sew the wrapped section onto the tail core. Add a small purple cap at the end of the braid where it meets the wrapped brown yarn to replicate the photo's purple knot.

β€” Wing Membrane (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (11)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (11)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc, 1 sc in next 5, inc, sc in last 2 (13)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, sc across (13)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc in next 3, inc, sc in next 5, inc, sc in next 3 (15)

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st (15)

Round 9 :

Ch 1, across turning chain sc to create a slightly rounded outer edge - single crochet in each st and work 3 sc in last st to round the tip; continue along opposite edge (15 + 3 extra in tip)

Info :

These flat membranes will be edged with black for the webbing and then attached to a supporting armature (a strip crocheted or pipe-cleaner bones) to create the bat-like wing shape. Use purple for membrane and black for edges to match the photos.

Round 10 :

Switch to black yarn. Work 1 sc in each st around the entire membrane, placing 2 sc in each corner/tip to keep the shape flat. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing.

Info :

Sew a slim long tube (3-4 sc in magic ring, then 1 sc around for length) in black to form the leading edge / wing bone and stitch it along the membrane outer edge to give the wing structure and the raised black border seen in the image.

β€” Wing Bone / Armature (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2-24 :

Slip stitch or sc around to create a thin tube of approx 18-22 cm depending on wing size; can be done in continuous rounds (4) and stuffed with a tiny amount of fiberfill or wire for stability

Info :

Sew the limb tube to the inner edge of the membrane; shape the wing with a few hand-tacks so it flares like the photo. Position wing assembly to body at the upper back slightly behind the arms so the wings rest naturally.

β€” Hat Cone :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with purple yarn (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-12 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

These rounds create the main cone body. After round 12, stop increasing to make straight sides. The hat in the photo has a tall, slightly tapered cone with intentional flop to the tip β€” allow the top to remain more flexible by stuffing minimally or even leaving hollow if you prefer a floppy look.

Round 13-20 :

1 sc in each st (36) - work in spiral to avoid visible seams; stuff lightly or not depending on desired flop

Round 21 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

6 dec (6) - do not close completely if you want to stuff the tip slightly; fasten off and leave long tail

Info :

For a floppy tip similar to the photo, reduce stuffing and optionally stitch tip to the hat base at an angle. Add a hat-band by crocheting a flat chain band with a contrast color and sewing it around the cone near the brim.

β€” Hat Brim :

Round 1 :

With larger hook (3.5mm or 4.0mm), ch 48 and join to form circle (48)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in each ch around (48)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, inc) x 12 (60)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 12 (72)

Round 6-7 :

1 sc in each st (72)

Round 8 :

Switch to dark plum yarn. Work 1 sc BLO around to create a firm brim edge and subtle ridge (72)

Info :

Sew the brim to the base of the cone by matching the inner circumference and stitching firmly. Use a contrasting band (made with hdc rounds) to decorate the hat as in the photo. If you want the brim to be floppy, block lightly; to make it stiff, slip a piece of thin felt inside the brim before sewing shut.

β€” Wing Finishing & Attachment :

Round 1 :

Info :

Info :

Sew the wing tube (armature) along the inner curve of the membrane. Reinforce the seam with small stitches and shape the outer edge to have the black raised border. Attach wings to body between body rounds 10-14 slightly behind the arms. Ensure both wings match in height and angle.

β€” Eye Rims & Face Details :

Round 1 :

With bright purple yarn, ch 8 and join to form a small rim; sc around for 2 rounds to create a rim that fits around the safety eye (approx 8-10 sts)

Info :

Sew rim to head around the eyes after inserting safety eyes; this creates the dramatic purple eye borders in the pictures. Embroider small nostrils with black or deep purple and embroider a small smiling mouth with a few backstitches for the friendly expression.

β€” Final Assembly :

Info :

Pin and sew the head to the body opening. Match front center points and use mattress stitch to create a smooth seam. Attach arms and legs symmetrically and sew dorsal spikes along the back, spacing them evenly. Attach tail to center back bottom using secure stitches. Place hat on head and either stitch in a few hidden points or leave removable.

Round 1 :

Info :

Info :

Weave in all ends securely. Add optional blush with fabric paint or powdered eyeshadow on cheeks for a softer look. Check all joins for safety and secure loose bits of yarn or tassel wrap well for durability.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the body opening. Pin in place first aligning chin with front center. Sew securely using mattress stitch all around, ensuring even attachment and no gaps.
  • Position and sew legs to the bottom front of the body so the dragon can sit upright. Place feet evenly about 8-10 stitches from center front and sew through leg base and body rounds 12-14 with strong back-and-forth passes.
  • Attach arms on each side of the body at rounds 14-17, slightly angled forward so hands rest on the belly. Use ladder stitch for an invisible seam and secure with extra stitches if the toy will be handled frequently.
  • Sew dorsal spikes onto the centerline of the back from head base to tail base. Start just behind the head (head rounds 8-10 area) and space spikes evenly about every 4-6 stitches, using the tail base as the final anchor point.
  • Attach wings to the upper back, aligning the wing bone with body rounds 10-14 and curving the membrane outward. Sew the wing bone in multiple points for strength, and tack the outer membrane edge lightly to set the wing shape.
  • Sew the braided tail and wrapped broom tassel to the tail core securely with numerous passes. Fix the purple knot at the braid base firmly, and sew the wrapped brown section onto the tail so the tassel hangs naturally.
  • Add eye rims after inserting safety eyes and before heavy facial stuffing. Sew rims into place with small stitches and weave ends into the head. Embroider nostrils and mouth with matching yarn and secure ends inside the head.
  • Place and sew the hat onto the head if desired. For a removable hat, tack only a couple of stitches or attach with small Velcro dots. For a permanent hat, sew around the brim inside to secure it to the head.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • πŸ’‘Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • πŸ’‘For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • πŸ’‘Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • πŸ’‘Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • πŸ’‘For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches and use a slightly smaller hook if needed
  • πŸ’‘Secure the broom tassel by wrapping and stitching the base several times to prevent fraying or unraveling

This witch dragon is such a rewarding make β€” the contrast of deep black and bright purple gives it personality, and the floppy hat with broom tassel is just delightful. Each step comes together into a companion full of character and charm that works beautifully as seasonal decor or a cuddly gift. Enjoy blocking the brim, stitching the spikes, and adding personal touches to make it uniquely yours. πŸ§Άβœ¨πŸ•―οΈ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and a 3.5mm hook with worsted weight yarn, the finished dragon measures approximately 12-15 inches tall when sitting (including the upright hat). Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Changing the yarn weight will change the final size and amount of yarn needed.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work well. Safety eyes give a glossy, professional look and are very secure, while embroidered eyes are a safer choice for toys intended for young children and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff head and feet more firmly and body and limbs moderately for a balanced shape.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely. Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire inside limbs before stuffing. Make sure wire ends are folded or capped and padded with fiberfill, and stitch the limb opening securely to hide and anchor the wire.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you detect a counting error, it is usually easiest to unravel back to the last known correct round and rework from there. Using a stitch marker at the start of each round helps prevent such mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension and a slightly smaller hook. Add stuffing in small amounts and use a blunt stuffing tool (like the end of a crochet hook) to push fiberfill into narrow parts without overfilling.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Swap yarn colors, change the hat trim, create different spike colors, or make a striped membrane. Personalize the broom tassel or add embroidered eyebrows for a different expression.