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Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern

Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured elegant blue-and-white snowflake table runner built from repeated lace square motifs. Each square features a raised, layered snowflake applique in white set against a graduated blue square background, with delicate picot and shell lace forming the outer rounds. The squares are joined using a join-as-you-go technique and finished with a scalloped lace border. Optional decorative clusters of faux pine sprigs, little white berries, and satin bows complete the look.

Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design is modular—make as many or as few squares as you like to fit your table. The stitchwork uses basic lace stitches (dc, tr, picot, shell) and a small hook for a crisp, dense lace fabric that handles well for blocking and table use.

Why You'll Love This Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends classic lace crochet with a modern two-tone palette for a fresh winter look. The layered snowflake applique gives real dimensional pop, and the join-as-you-go assembly means you can see the runner take shape quickly as you add each square. I also enjoy how the scalloped edging and tiny picot beads add a handmade, shawl-like elegance perfect for holiday tabletops.

Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how flexible this runner design is — you can change the mood simply by swapping color combinations. Using pale gray instead of blue gives a farmhouse winter look, while icy silver thread adds sparkle for festive tables.

I also enjoy customizing the embellishments: try tiny wooden beads in place of crochet berries, or use small glass seed beads sewn into the snowflake centers for glint. For a simpler, less ornate piece, omit the corner blossoms and stars and finish with a single scalloped edge round.

Finally, consider making fewer squares for a coffee table runner or multiple columns for a longer dining table. The join-as-you-go method lets you add or remove squares easily as you work.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motif corners and uneven square shape; always mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Tension inconsistency between rounds creates warped squares and difficulty matching edges for joining; keep a steady, slightly firm tension when working lace thread. ✗ Not blocking motifs before joining results in mismatched corners and uneven seams; block all squares and appliques flat to the same dimensions. ✗ Carrying color without securing loose ends between rounds can cause long floats and visible threads; fasten off neatly on color changes or weave ends into the back. ✗ Overstuffing decorative berry beads or using heavy embellishments can pull the lace out of shape; choose lightweight accents and attach them sparingly. ✗ Joining motifs before matching sizes leads to puckered joins; measure each square and adjust your outer rounds until all squares are consistent before joining. ✗ Using a hook that's too large for thread leaves gaps and shows stuffing or backing; use the recommended small hook for crisp lace. ✗ Rushing picot and picot clusters will create uneven points; slow down on picot rounds and keep all picots consistent in length.

Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern

Create a delicate, winter-inspired table runner made from stacked lace squares with layered snowflake appliques and elegant scalloped edging. This pattern uses fine cotton thread in icy blue and crisp white to build detailed squares, corner blossoms, and tiny star accents. The finished runner is lightweight, delicate, and beautiful for holiday or winter decor. Includes instructions for motifs, join-as-you-go assembly, edging, and decorative bow/berry clusters.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Blue & White Snowflake Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Size 10 crochet cotton thread (lace/fingering), color A (white) - approximately 120g
  • 02
    Size 10 crochet cotton thread, color B (icy blue) - approximately 80-100g (variegate or two shades if desired)
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-20g) of darker blue for accent petals or tiny star motifs
  • 04
    Optional: fine metallic thread, tiny amount (5g) for glint and accents

— Tools Required

  • 01
    1.75 mm steel crochet hook (or recommended hook for size 10 thread) for main lacework
  • 02
    1.5 mm or 1.6 mm hook for tighter appliques (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Blocking board and rustproof pins for shaping motifs
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Lightweight polyester fiberfill (very small amount if making crochet berries)
  • 08
    Small straight pins for positioning embellishments
  • 09
    Fabric glue (optional, for securing bows) and hot glue for faux greenery (optional)
  • 10
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 11
    Optional: sewing thread and needle for attaching heavy embellishments

Progress Tracker

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— Main Square Motif (make multiple) :

Round 1 :

With color B (icy blue) make a loop and ch4, sl st to form ring. Ch3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc) into ring to form first corner. Repeat (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) into ring three more times. Join with sl st to top of ch3. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 2 :

Sl st into next two dc and into corner ch-2 sp. Ch3, (2 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in same ch-2 sp, *ch1, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp* repeat from * 2 times, ch1, join with sl st to top ch3. (12 dc groups plus ch1 sps)

Round 3 :

Sl st into next two dc and into corner. Ch3, 2 dc in same corner, ch1, *(3 dc, ch1) in each ch1 sp on side* across (3 dc groups separated by ch1), in each corner work (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc). Join. (48 dc total; 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc in same stitch, *ch3, skip next ch1 sp, sc in next dc across side creating 3 ch loops across each side (12 ch-3 loops across). In corner sc, (ch3, sc) in corner ch2 space. Repeat around and join. (sc placement across 48 dc positions maintained)

Round 5 :

Info :

This round creates a lacy grid for the snowflake to sit on. Keep stitch tension slightly loose to allow applique placement.

Round 5 :

Change to color A (white) if you want a white inner square border now. Ch3, dc in each sc and in each ch3 loop around, working (dc, ch2, dc) in corner spaces. Join. (Approximately 56-64 dc depending on loops)

Round 6 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around working 3 sc in each corner (total sc approx 64). Join. (64)

Round 7 :

Info :

If you prefer a stronger contrast, switch back to color B for the next two rounds to create the blue field behind the snowflake applique. We recommend carrying the blue neatly or fastening off and joining again.

Round 7 :

Change to color B. Ch3, dc in each sc around, in corners work (dc, ch2, dc). Join. (64 dc spots)

Round 8 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around; work 3 sc in each corner ch-2. Join. (64)

Round 9 :

Ch3, *dc in next 7 sc, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in corner* repeat across; join. (4 corner clusters and sides with 7 dc each; total dc ~72)

Round 10 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around. Join. (72)

Round 11 :

Info :

At this point check gauge against other squares. All completed squares should measure approximately the same (target ~6-7 inches square unblocked depending on thread). Block if needed before continuing.

Round 11 :

With color A, ch3, dc in each sc and dc around forming a crisp white inner border. In corners (dc, ch2, dc). Join. (72)

Round 12 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around; in corner work (sc, ch3, sc). Join. (72)

Round 13 :

Ch3, dc in next 3 sc, *(dc3 cluster separated by ch1 along sides to create mesh), in corner work (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc)*. This creates a denser field for sewing the applique. Join. (approx 80 dc spots)

Round 14 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around. Join. (80)

Round 15 :

Info :

Start working ornamental corner petals in this round if you want scalloped corners later. Otherwise continue straight for an even edge. Keep consistent counts so join points match.

Round 15 :

With color A, work a decorative round: *in side: (sc, ch3, sc) in every 6th stitch to create small loops; in corners work (sc, ch5, sc)*. Join. (loops approx 12 per side)

Round 16 :

Ch1, sc in each sc and in each ch loop around. Join. (maintain stitch count ~80)

Round 17 :

With color B, work a shell round for texture: *(skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc) across sides; in corners work (sc, ch3, 5 dc, ch3, sc)*. Join. (shells across sides; count varies ~80-92 dc units)

Round 18 :

Ch1, sc over shells to anchor, making 3 sc in each corner shell for stability. Join. (approx 92)

Round 19 :

Info :

Measure square again. If you intend to add a layered border later, add one more even round in white to equalize all squares to same finished size before blocking and joining.

Round 19 :

Change to color A. Ch3, dc in each sc around, work (dc, ch2, dc) in corners. Join. (approx 92)

Round 20 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around. Join. (92)

Round 21 :

Work final even round to prepare for join-as-you-go: *sc in each st for one round in color A (white) to give a clean strip for joining*. Join and fasten off. (92)

Info :

Sew in ends or leave long tails for the join-as-you-go process. Block the square flat to exact desired dimensions. Repeat to make required number of squares (the sample runner uses 8 squares in a single column, but you can adjust number for table length).

— Snowflake Applique (make 1 per square) :

Round 1 :

With color A (white) start with mr, ch2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring. Join with sl st to first hdc. (12)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, skip next st, sc in next* repeat around to make 6 ch4 loops. Join. (6 ch-4 loops)

Round 3 :

Into each ch4 loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to form a petal. Join. (6 petals)

Round 4 :

Info :

This round builds the snowflake arms; keep petals symmetrical. Block lightly if needed to maintain petal shape before continuing to the next layered arms.

Round 4 :

Ch3, work a short picot arm out from tip of each petal: sl st to the middle dc of petal, ch5, sl st in 3rd ch to form a picot extension, sl st back to petal center. Repeat for each petal to form 6 small arms. (6 arms)

Round 5 :

Ch1, sc around base to anchor all arms; into spaces between petals ch6, sl st to form additional loops (12 ch-6 loops). Join. (sc count approx 36)

Round 6 :

Into each ch-6 loop: (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) forming secondary larger arms. Join. (12 larger arms)

Round 7 :

Ch3, picot in each larger arm tip: (ch4, sl st in 3rd ch) and anchor back into arm center. This creates defined snowflake spikes. (12 pico t tips)

Round 8 :

Info :

For the raised look seen in the photo, work the next layer in puff stitches and finish with small picot beads. Use a slightly smaller hook for the applique to keep edges crisp.

Round 8 :

Ch1, sc around base of arms. Then in alternating spaces create small puff clusters for texture: *(ch2, puff stitch made of 3 loops pulled and closed, ch2, sc) in next space* repeat around. (approx 24 puff clusters)

Round 9 :

Ch3, work a decorative looped round: *into each puff cluster ch5 loop, sl st and sc around to anchor* repeat to make a second-tier sparkle. Join. (details vary)

Round 10 :

With color A, create final rim: *working into the base of each large arm, make (sc, ch3, picot, ch3, sc)* to give small pointed decorative tips. Join and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. (final petal count 12 tips)

Info :

Block each snowflake applique very flat so the arms are evenly spread and the center sits flat. Sew centered onto the prepared square using the long tail and small whip stitches through the inner base of the applique and into the dc mesh beneath.

— Corner Blossom Motif (make 4 per square corner) :

Round 1 :

With color B, ch6, sl st to form ring. Ch3 (counts as dc), 11 dc into ring, join. (12 dc)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, sc in next dc* repeat around to make 6 ch4 loops. Join. (6)

Round 3 :

Into each ch4 loop work (sc, 3 dc, sc) to create small petals. Join. (6 petals)

Round 4 :

Info :

Blossoms are small accents used between squares; they add a layered texture to joins and border. Make them slightly raised with small puff centers if desired.

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc around petals, then in each petal center make a small puff (3 loops) to form a textured center. Join and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. (6 petals with puff centers)

— Little Star Accent (make many) :

Round 1 :

With color A, mr, ch3, 9 dc into ring. Join. (10 including ch3)

Round 2 :

Ch2, *tr, picot, sl st in next dc* repeat around to create small star points. Join and fasten off. (10 tiny points)

Info :

Make a handful of these tiny stars to scatter across joins and along the outer border. They can be sewn flat or slightly lifted with a few stitches at center for 3D effect.

— Join-As-You-Go Rows (assemble squares in column) :

Round 1 :

Place two blocked squares wrong side facing you and align edges. With color A, attach yarn at the corner sc of the first square's joining strip. Sc through both layers into first st, sc next st through both layers, continue sc across the side joining each sc to sc, making sure to work into equivalent stitches for an even seam. (sc count equals edge sc count, approx 92 per side)

Round 2 :

Info :

When joining squares use an even number of joining stitches; for mesh edge counts vary slightly—adjust by adding or skipping a sc evenly across the join to avoid puckers.

Round 2 :

Continue joining additional squares exactly as above, working in a single row (column) for a runner. When joining each square, add one corner blossom motif at each exposed outer corner by working a sc through both layers and sewing blossom center with remaining tail.

Round 3 :

Once all squares are joined in a column, check that joins lie flat. If needed, add an additional sc round across both seams in color A to smooth transitions. Fasten off and weave ends.

Info :

If making a wider runner, produce parallel columns and join columns using the same method—consider alternating square orientations for visual interest.

— Outer Border & Scalloped Edging :

Round 1 :

With assembled column laid flat, join color A at any corner. Ch3 (counts as dc), dc evenly along the long side into each sc, working 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in each corner for continuity. Join at end. (dc count varies by total length; work evenly, approximately 8 dc per square side)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each dc around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2. Join. (even sc round)

Round 3 :

Info :

Begin scalloped shaping on this round. Use shells and picots to form the decorative outer edge pictured. Keep counts consistent along straight edges by spacing shells evenly.

Round 3 :

Change to color B. Working along long sides: *(skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc)* repeat for scallops. In corners work (sc, ch5, sc) to create deep scallop. Join. (scaffolded shell counts)

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc over shells to anchor: sc in top of each 5-dc shell and into corner loops work (sc, ch3, sc). Join. (approx same stitch count maintained)

Round 5 :

With color A, add picot beadwork between scallops: *(ch3, picot, sc) in the center sc between shells* repeat. Join and fasten off. This creates the tiny white points between shells seen in the photo.

Round 6 :

Info :

For an extra ornate finish add a final round of small star motifs sewn along the edge every two scallops. This reproduces the clustered floral look in the picture.

Round 7 :

If adding stars, sew tiny star accents (from Little Star Accent) at even intervals along the scalloped edge using matching blue or white thread. Space them evenly—typically every 2 scallops for a balanced look.

— Decorative Clusters & Berries (optional embellishments) :

Round 1 :

Make small crochet berries to resemble the tiny white berries: With white thread, ch2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, work 2 more rounds of sc in spiral to create a little 3-row bead (final approximate diameter 6-8 mm). Stuff with tiny tuft of polyester if desired. Make 6-12 berries per cluster. (approx 18 sc total per berry)

Round 2 :

Make small crochet leaves in green thread if adding faux greenery: ch8, sc in second ch from hook and next 6 sc, turn; in next row work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) along chain to create a tapered leaf. Make 6-9 leaves per cluster.

Round 3 :

Info :

Attach berries and leaves in tasteful clusters along the runner at intervals (sample has clusters spaced over several squares). Use a lightweight hand-sewing thread or a dab of fabric glue behind the piece to secure faux pine sprigs or ribbon bows.

Round 4 :

Bow placement: make satin bows and sew at cluster base using small stitches through knot; cover bare stitches with small star motifs or blossoms if needed to conceal join threads. Keep clusters light so lace does not sag.

Round 5 :

Fasten all embellishments securely. Weave all tails into surrounding stitches and trim close. Block final assembled runner flat and allow to dry thoroughly before displaying.

Info :

Use rust-proof pins and a professional blocking board. Spray lightly with water and shape to even edges; measure corner-to-corner diagonal to ensure straightness while drying.

— Finishing Touches & Alternative Options :

Round 1 :

To create a narrower runner, omit alternate squares when joining; for a table centerpiece, assemble 3-5 squares in the column. To make a table cloth centerpiece, arrange a 2 x 4 grid and join with the same join-as-you-go method.

Round 2 :

If you want added shimmer, carry a very fine metallic thread through the last border round only, crocheting it together with the white outer round to give just a thread of sparkle without changing the main body color.

Info :

Store the runner flat or lightly folded in tissue to avoid creases. For washing: hand wash gently in cool water with mild detergent and lay flat to dry to preserve shape and color; do not tumble dry.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin and block all individual squares and appliques to the same measurements before joining to ensure even, flat joins.
  • Join squares with join-as-you-go method: align two squares wrong sides together and sc through both layers along one side. Use color A for the join for continuity (matches the pictured thin white join line).
  • Sew each snowflake applique to the center of its square using the long tail from the applique; sew through the inner base of the snowflake and through the dc mesh beneath, using small whip or mattress stitches to keep it flat and secure.
  • Attach corner blossom motifs at each corner where two squares meet: place blossom centered on the join and sew through a few stitches at the blossom base and both square layers to anchor.
  • Sew tiny star accents and crochet berries to the outer scalloped edge at spaced intervals; use matching thread and discreet stitches to avoid visible tails.
  • Attach faux pine sprigs and satin bows at chosen cluster points using a few whip stitches through the runner fabric; secure heavy embellishments with a dab of fabric glue at the back if needed.
  • Weave all ends into the surrounding stitches using a tapestry needle; for safety, knot yarn ends where heavy handling is expected near embellishments.
  • Final block the whole assembled runner pinned to exact dimensions and leave to dry fully; press gently with a cool iron over a cloth if needed to flatten any stubborn points.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping during motif rounds.
  • 💡Block every motif and applique to the same size before assembly; blocking is essential for lace motifs to match corners and scallops cleanly.
  • 💡Stuff tiny crochet berries lightly, only if making them; most small berries can be left unstuffed as solid round sc balls to keep weight down.
  • 💡When switching colors, fasten off or carry yarn neatly behind motifs; long floats should be anchored or woven to avoid snags on a table.
  • 💡Work with a slightly smaller hook than recommended for the thread if you want tighter lace and fewer visible gaps for a neater tabletop look.
  • 💡Pin embellishments before sewing to find the best visual placement and to avoid crowding the lace work—less is often more with such a delicate runner.
  • 💡Weave ends into the runner structure; do not just knot at the surface as knots can show through the lace and create lumps.
  • 💡If gifting for households with children, avoid glued-on embellishments and opt for sewn satin bows and embroidered berries for a safer finish.

This lovely snowflake table runner transforms a simple wooden table into a winter wonderland with delicate crochet lace and layered snowflakes. The modular design means you can craft any length to fit your space; each square adds more charm and texture to your table. Whether you display it for the holidays or as a seasonal staple, the handmade detail is sure to delight. 🧶❄️💙

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using size 10 cotton thread and the hook listed, each square measures roughly 6-7 inches blocked; the sample uses 8 squares in a single column for a finished runner around 6-7 inches wide by 48-56 inches long. Adjust number of squares to fit your table.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. You can use finer or thicker thread, but adjust your hook accordingly (smaller for denser fabric). Changing thread weight will change finished dimensions significantly; make a sample square to establish gauge before making many squares.

Do I need to block every piece?

Yes—blocking is essential for lace motifs to ensure they lie flat and match up during joining. Use rustproof pins and a blocking board and shape each square and applique to the same dimensions.

Can I machine wash the finished runner?

Hand washing in cool water with a gentle detergent and flat drying is recommended to preserve shape and detail. Machine washing or tumble drying may distort the lace and damage embellishments.

Is join-as-you-go the only joining method?

No. You can join squares by whip stitch or slip stitch seam after blocking, but join-as-you-go creates a clean continuous edge and is recommended for this lacy design.

How much thread will I need?

Estimate approximately 120g of white and 80-100g of blue size 10 cotton thread for a runner similar to the photo (8 squares). Exact amounts vary by yarn brand and blocking; buy extra to avoid dye lot differences.

Can I make the runner shorter or wider?

Absolutely. Make fewer squares for a shorter runner, or construct parallel columns joined together to make a wider centerpiece or table covering. Pattern is modular and easy to scale.

What if my stitch counts do not match when joining?

If two squares differ slightly in stitch count, add or skip a few sc evenly along the seam to make them fit. It's best to adjust outer rounds of the larger square to match the smaller before joining to avoid tension issues.