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Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern

Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern
4.4★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern

This table runner features repeat reindeer medallions appliqued on a scalloped red background strip. Each motif includes a brown round reindeer face with cream muzzle, a bright red nose, black bead eyes, cream antlers, layered green holly leaves, and small red and gold berries. The runner is built motif-by-motif and edged with cream scallops to create a finished, vintage-inspired holiday centerpiece.

Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses standard crochet stitches, textured surface stitches, and appliqué assembly so you can tailor colors and number of motifs to fit your own table. The motifs are modular and easy to adjust in number for different runner lengths.

Why You'll Love This Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because the reindeer medallions are so satisfying to build — each component (face, antlers, ears, holly) comes together like a small crochet scene. The contrast of the deep red background with cream scallops and green holly feels festive and classic. I also enjoy how the modular design makes it easy to customize length and colors to match seasonal decor.

Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how this runner design invites customization — you can change the reindeer face colors, swap the gold berries for wooden buttons, or even make snowman or Santa medallions instead of reindeer for variety. Using a lighter yarn and smaller hook makes daintier medallions perfect for narrow tables, while bulky yarn gives a cozy, more textured centerpiece.

I often alternate berry colors between red and gold for added visual rhythm, or add tiny embroidered names to the medallion edges for personalized holiday place decor. If you want a simpler project, create a single medallion as a trivet or placemat instead of a multi-motif runner.

Don't be afraid to experiment with joins — join-as-you-go yields a seamless look, while visible whip stitching can become a decorative accent if done in contrasting color. This pattern is a great playground for color experiments and small finishing details that make it uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs during joining; mark your first stitch of each round to maintain alignment ✗ Using a hook too large for the yarn results in loose stitches and visible stuffing or gaps in appliques; use the recommended hook or slightly smaller for tighter fabric ✗ Changing colors without finishing the last loop of the previous stitch causes a visible knot; always complete the final yarn over with the new color to hide joins ✗ Not blocking motifs before assembly leaves edges uneven and causes join seams to be bumpy; lightly block flat appliques for clean joins ✗ Overstuffing small applique elements like berries or nose results in lumpy or misshapen pieces; use small pinches of yarn to sculpt these details ✗ Sewing pieces on without pinning leads to uneven placement; pin each component and compare symmetry before permanent stitching

Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern

Create a charming holiday table runner featuring repeated reindeer medallions, scalloped edging, and holly accents. This long runner combines textured applique motifs — round reindeer faces, branched antlers, layered holly leaves and berries — on a rich red background for a classic Christmas look. Designed to be worked motif-by-motif and joined into a continuous runner, it makes a beautiful center for your holiday table.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Festive Reindeer Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) in main red — approximately 200g for runner base and background (deep candy red shown)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) in brown — approximately 120g for reindeer faces (warm medium brown)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) in cream/ivory — 100g for antlers, muzzle, and edging
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) in green — 80g for holly leaves
  • 05
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) in bright red — 30g for noses and berries
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-20g) in gold or mustard — for small decorative berries and accents

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter appliques and small details (optional)
  • 03
    8mm black beads or safety eyes for eyes (or 6mm if you prefer smaller)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill for tiny stuffing of noses and berries (small amount)
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4-6) to mark round starts and spacing
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and positioning motifs
  • 09
    Blocking mat and pins (optional but recommended)
  • 10
    Optional: small amount of fabric glue for securing beads if desired

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern is modular. Each repeated unit = 1 reindeer medallion worked as appliques and layered onto a scalloped red background medallion square. Make 6 repeat motifs for a long runner similar to the photo, or adjust count to fit your table length. Work all pieces flat, then sew appliques to the background medallion and join medallions into a continuous runner before adding final scalloped edging.

— Reindeer Face (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

For a slightly flatter, applique-friendly circle keep tension relaxed but even so the face lays flat. If you prefer a thicker face, use the next rounds to add texture with surface or post stitches.

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place eyes at this stage (between rounds 11-12) before adding the muzzle: place eyes spaced 10-12 stitches apart centered on the face. If using beads rather than safety eyes, stitch them on after attaching muzzle to avoid puncturing the face fabric.

Round 13 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 14 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Round 13-14 reduce gently to create a subtle flat dome so the muzzle will sit slightly in relief. Do not stuff; this is flat appliqué - maintain low profile.

Round 15 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (24) - Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Weave remaining tail under the face or use it to sew the face onto the background medallion. Block gently flat if needed.

— Muzzle (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (18) - fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew muzzle centered over the lower third of the face using the long tail; use slip stitch or whip stitch around the edge for a flat, neat join. Position nose in center and stitch on red nose afterwards.

— Nose/Berry Small Round (Make 6 noses + additional berries) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (9) - fasten off leaving tail. Flatten slightly and sew onto muzzle center firmly; add a small dab of fiberfill if you want a tiny puff.

Info :

Make extras in red for holly berries. For gold berries use a metallic or mustard yarn and stitch later under holly leaves.

— Eyes (Make 6 pairs) :

Info :

Use 8mm black beads or safety eyes. If using safety eyes insert at rounds 11-12 of face prior to adding muzzle. If using beads, sew them on after applique to avoid stress on face fabric.

— Ears (Make 12: 2 per motif) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 2 sc (14)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (14) - fold ear slightly in half and join base with sl st across 3-4 sts, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing to head

Info :

Sew ears to upper sides of the face between rounds 7-9, angled slightly outward for a natural look. Stuff base lightly if you want ears to hold shape.

— Antler Branch (Make 12 halves, 6 left + 6 right - assemble into 6 pairs) :

Round 1 :

ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5) - turn (5)

Round 2 :

ch1, 1 sc in each st (5)

Round 3 :

ch1, (1 sc, ch3, skip next st, 1 sc) across to create small branch loops - 3 small loops along stem

Round 4 :

Rotate and sc along the opposite side (5) then sl st to join base. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to face.

Info :

Antlers here are worked as flat branched appliques. For a more sculpted antler use puff or cable stitches on the stem. Sew antler halves together (mirror image) and attach to top of head above each ear. Use a second antler pattern for thicker shape: repeat and stack then sew together.

— Alternative Sculpted Antler (Make as needed) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (9)

Round 4 :

Chain 8 from one stitch, sc back along chain to create a long branch, sl st back to head base. Repeat chains for multiple branches around periphery, fasten off and sew in place (9 + branch elements).

Info :

Use this method if you prefer antlers that lift off the applique for more shadow and dimension. Pin branches and test placement before final sewing.

— Holly Leaf (Make 12 leaves per motif set — 2 sets of 2 leaves per motif) :

Round 1 :

ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in last ch, turn and continue along opposite side: dc, dc, hdc, sc (total 9 sts along leaf perimeter)

Round 2 :

Working around leaf edge; sc in each st evenly to create a slightly thicker leaf edge (9) - fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Use BLO once on Round 2 on the base of the leaf to create a slight curl. Make leaves in green and block lightly to shape the serrated edge downward.

— Holly Leaf Variation with Vein Detail :

Round 1 :

ch 7, 1 sc in 2nd ch, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 tr at tip, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc along returning chain (10)

Round 2 :

Attach new yarn at base and work slip stitches or surface hdc to form central vein; fasten off and weave in

Info :

Sew leaves around the base of the reindeer face under the muzzle area. Layer leaves slightly overlapping for a natural wreath look.

— Gold Berry (Make 12 small gold berries per motif) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc in each st (6) - pull tightly, fasten off leaving tail to sew under the leaves

Info :

Use metallic or mustard yarn for a small shimmering berry. Sew 1-2 around each holly cluster per motif for decorative highlights.

— Red Berry (Make 18 per motif set including nose extras) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9) - flatten and sew as berry; use for nose (larger) and holly clusters (smaller) by using or omitting Round 2

Info :

Sew nose centrally to muzzle; sew 2-3 small berries on holly clusters across the medallion for a festive accent.

— Background Medallion / Square Base (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6) - use main red color

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

Work 4 rounds of 1 sc in each st to build a flat disc (30) x4 rounds

Info :

We will convert the circle to a scalloped square border. Keep these rounds flat and even — use stitch marker to mark the center top for later alignment when placing the face.

Round 11 :

To make first corner: *sc in next 7 sts, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in next st (corner made)* repeat 4 times total around to form 4 corners (adjust spacing by moving some sc counts by ±1 as needed to keep shape even) - aim to have 4 corners and roughly 4 side panels of sc between corner shells

Round 12 :

1 sc in each sc across sides, and in the ch2-spaces work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to smooth corners - fasten off leaving long tail for joining

Info :

If you prefer a more precise square, mark your four corner points after Round 10 and count exact sc between corners (e.g., 7 sc). Blocking at this stage helps square up medallion edges.

— Attaching Face to Medallion :

Round 1 :

Position reindeer face centered on medallion, aligning bottom of face with one of the short side edges of square so antlers point toward the opposite edge. Pin in place

Round 2 :

Using long tail from face, whip stitch around outer rounds of face attaching firmly to medallion. Keep stitches small and even so the join is invisible on the front

Info :

Sew muzzle, eyes and nose now onto face before adding holly leaves and antlers. Add small reinforcing stitches through medallion to secure heavier details (like beads) in place.

— Positioning and Attaching Antlers, Ears, Leaves, & Berries :

Info :

Pin antlers symmetrically above ears; sew antlers in place with the long tails. Attach ears at slight outward angle on either side of antlers. Position holly leaves overlapping lower edge of muzzle; sew leaves securely from their base. Sew gold berries near leaf bases and red berries grouped to form a wreath-like cluster under muzzle.

— Joining Medallions into Runner Strip :

Info :

Make the number of medallions required (6 for the photographed length). Lay medallions in a straight line with edges touching. Use mattress stitch or whip stitch to join adjacent square sides: align corner points and use long tail from the medallion to stitch through both layers, joining corresponding sts about every other stitch to keep seams flat.

Round 1 :

To join two medallions place right sides together and sl st through corresponding corner ch2 spaces, then continue sl st or whip stitch through edge scs, spacing approximately every 2-3 scs to create a stable seam. Repeat for each seam between medallions.

Info :

Alternatively, use join-as-you-go: when making Round 12 of a medallion, at the final corner slip stitch into the corresponding ch2 on the previously made medallion to connect them seamlessly. JAYGO saves sewing later.

— Scalloped Border and Finishing Edge (Work along full runner) :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn and runner laid flat, attach with sl st anywhere at a visible scallop point. *Ch3, sk 1 st, sl st in next st* repeat around runner to create a light picot texture — this is a preparatory pass (count around and adjust spacing to keep even)

Round 2 :

For classic scallop: *in corner shell or side shell work (5 dc) in same st to create scallop, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st* repeat around; at medallion joins increase to 7 dc in join area to keep curve even

Round 3 :

Work one more round of scallops: (sl st in top of previous scallop, ch2, 6 dc in next scallop) to create layered scallops. Fasten off and weave ends

Info :

Use BLO or FLO on the first scallop round to create an inner ridge if you prefer a framed look. Blocking finished runner will open and even scallops making a clean tabletop appearance.

— Optional Decorative Raised Stitch Round (for raised texture between medallions) :

Round 1 :

Attach contrasting cream yarn at seam line and work 1 round of fpdc (front post double crochet) across the runner seam areas to create a raised ridge; this is worked in the horizontal plane across joins

Info :

This raised ridge imitates the cream accent seen framing each medallion in the image. Work fpdc evenly across continuous seams only — do not disturb the medallion faces.

— Final Details and Weaving In :

Info :

Sew in any loose tails, tidy edges with matching cream whip stitches, and add extra stitches to secure heavier beads. Lightly steam-block runner or pin to shape and spritz lightly with water for final blocking. Trim any remaining tails behind the runner.

— Size & Adjustments :

Info :

Each medallion measures approximately 6.5" (16.5 cm) across after scalloped edging. Six medallions joined with edging create a runner about 45-48" long. Adjust motif count to lengthen or shorten the runner. Use DK yarn and smaller hook to reduce size proportionally or bulky yarn to enlarge motifs.

— Color and Design Notes :

Info :

The pattern features a deep red background, medium brown faces, cream antlers and edging, green holly, red and gold berries. Feel free to swap the gold accents for white pearls or wooden beads for a different look. Work contrasting stitches like fpdc for texture around face and border to match the raised look in the photo.

— Troubleshooting & Tips :

Info :

If your medallions are not lying flat, check tension, block pieces, or add/subtract a sc in the side panels when forming square corners. When joining, keep seam stitches small and consistent to avoid puckering. For a more vintage look, age the cream yarn slightly by switching to oatmeal or light tan.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach reindeer face to background medallion by centering face and whip stitching around the face perimeter using the face's long tail; align lower edge of face with one of the short sides of the square so antlers point to the opposite side
  • Sew ears to the head between rounds 7-9, slightly forward of the antler base, using small whip stitches for an invisible seam
  • Pin antlers in mirror positions above ears; sew through both antler base and medallion edge to anchor securely. Reinforce with 2-3 passes of thread in heavier yarn where necessary
  • Layer holly leaves under the muzzle edge and sew at their bases. Add gold berries first, then red berries clustered in groups of two or three to form a wreath under the muzzle
  • Join medallions edge-to-edge using whip stitch or join-as-you-go method: align corner shells, then stitch through corresponding scs every 2-3 stitches to keep seam flat
  • Work a continuous scalloped cream border around the entire joined runner: attach yarn, work scallops and layer 2 rounds for depth, ending with a tidy weave-in of all tails

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff tiny applique pieces like noses and berries minimally—use small pinches of fiberfill, not large clumps
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before attaching the muzzle if using these on the reindeer face; if using beads, sew on after assembly
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout; a slightly tighter hook gives a cleaner applique with less visible gaps
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡Block and shape appliques before permanent attachment for best flatness and alignment
  • 💡Use matching-color yarn for attachment stitches when possible to keep joins invisible on the right-side
  • 💡If you plan to launder the runner, use washable yarn and secure beads with extra thread or glue

Finishing this reindeer table runner brings such a warm holiday feel to your home — each medallion is like a tiny festive portrait! The layered appliques and scalloped edging create a photogenic centerpiece that guests will notice right away. I hope you enjoy assembling each cheerful reindeer as much as I do — it's a lovely project to savor. 🧶✨🎄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Based on the specified yarn (worsted) and hooks, each medallion finishes at about 6.5" (16.5 cm) across. Six medallions plus edging create an overall length of approximately 45-48". Adjust motif count to change length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use a smaller hook for thicker yarn to keep stitches dense, or a smaller yarn with a proportionally smaller hook to reduce the size. Keep in mind yarn weight and hook changes will alter the finished size and number of medallions required.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work well. Safety eyes provide a shiny, consistent look; embroidered or sewn-on bead eyes are safer for households with small children and allow more expression.

How much yarn will I need overall?

Estimate about 200g red, 120g brown, 100g cream, 80g green, 30g red accents and 10-20g gold. Exact amounts depend on runner length and stitch tension.

Can I make the runner shorter or longer?

Absolutely. The runner is modular—add or subtract medallions to reach your desired length. You can also change medallion size by switching yarn weight and hook size.

How do I prevent puckering when joining medallions?

Use small, even stitches when joining and avoid pulling yarn too tightly. If puckering persists, consider join-as-you-go to keep edges aligned and flat.

Can I machine wash this runner?

If you use machine-washable yarn and secure beads strongly, you can gently machine wash on a delicate cycle in a mesh bag. Otherwise hand-wash and lay flat to dry to preserve shape.

How do I make the antlers more sturdy or 3D?

Add a second antler layer sewn together, or use embroidery floss and a small wire inside the chain branches to shape and stiffen antlers. Be sure to hide wire ends and secure with yarn.