A delicate floral scroll table runner worked in soft pastel cottons, featuring spirals, open lace circles, layered flowers, leaves and tiny berry balls. The design combines solid crochet motifs with airy mesh connectors to create a long organic runner perfect for a dining table or sideboard. Finished in blush pink, soft cream and sage green, this runner uses modular motifs joined into a flowing S-shape with lots of texture and visual interest. Detailed stitch-by-stitch instructions guide you through each motif and the final assembly.
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— Materials & Gauge :
Info :
Gauge is not critical for the runner overall but important for motif size and lace alignment. With DK cotton and 3.25mm hook: one spiral motif (Rounds 1-18 as below) measures approx. 10-11cm across. Adjust hook up or down to match desired size. Work tightly enough that mesh openings are neat but not puckered.
— Spiral Disc Motif (Make 5–6, cream) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Info :
Work in continuous rounds or join and ch1 as you prefer; I recommend continuous rounds with a stitch marker to create a smooth spiral face
Round 7 :
(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Round 10 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Info :
Switch to a slightly smaller hook for the next lace edging if you want a tighter spiral edge. Leave long tail for sewing if desired
Round 11 :
(3 sc, ch 3, sk 2) x 12 around to create scalloped mesh openings; adjust sk count to maintain 12 evenly spaced loops (48)
Round 12 :
In each ch-3 sp: sl st, ch1, 3 sc, ch1, sl st (12 shell loops; main body unchanged)
Round 13 :
Work 1 sc between each shell and 2 sc across shell peaks to reinforce (48)
Round 14 :
(6 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
Round 15 :
1 sc in each st (54)
Round 16 :
(7 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Info :
To form the visible spiral center, do not join rounds tightly; use continuous spiraling and maintain even tension so the motif lays flat. Block flat after finishing.
Round 17 :
1 sc in each st (60)
Round 18 :
Option A - Continue spiral outward: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (66). Option B - Finish here and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (60)
Info :
Make 5–6 spiral discs in cream to form the long runner. Vary whether you finish with open lace by omitting the final solid round for a lighter look.
— Lace Circle Motif (Make 4–6, cream) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Info :
Work these central rounds slightly tighter to give a stable foundation for the openwork rim
Round 7 :
*Ch 4, sk 2, sc in next* repeat around to create 10 ch-4 loops; adjust repeats so loops are evenly spaced (30)
Round 8 :
In each ch-4 sp: (sc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sc) to form petal-like arches (10 arches)
Round 9 :
1 sc in each st around to secure arches (30)
Round 10 :
Working into spaces between arches: *(ch 6, sl st into next space)* repeat to form large mesh ring (10 loops)
Round 11 :
In each ch-6 sp: *(sc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sc)* to expand mesh and create an airy doily edge (10 shells)
Round 12 :
Work 1 sc between shells and 2 sc across peaks to create firm edging (30)
Round 13 :
(3 sc, ch 1) x 10 around the outer edge then sl st to join to finish a neat rim (30)
Info :
Make 4–6 lace circles. These motifs provide the larger airy spaces between solid spirals and the S-band. Block thoroughly to open the mesh.
— Large Flower Motif (Make 2–3, blush pink with cream center) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring with cream center (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
Change to blush pink. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Info :
Change to blush pink at the start of Round 4 with a neat join; carry cream inward if you want less ends to weave.
Round 5 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Round 6 :
(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 7 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Round 8 :
Begin petal formation: *ch 6, sl st into next st* repeat 6 times to form 6 loops evenly around (30)
Round 9 :
Into each ch-6 loop: *(sl st, ch1, 3 dc, ch1, sl st) into loop, then 5 sc across base between loops* to form raised petal base
Round 10 :
Return to each petal top and work 9 dc into the top of each petal forming a plump petal (6 petals, count flexible)
Round 11 :
Finish petal edges with 1 sc in each st around outer petal edges to neaten (approx 54-60 sc depending on dc clusters)
Info :
Optional: Add a layer of padding to each petal by making a second thinner petal and sewing it onto the back for depth. Light stuffing can be used for slightly domed petals.
Round 12 :
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Weave ends to back and block petals flat if desired
— Petal (Individual, if making layered petals) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2 :
(1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
Round 3 :
(2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
Round 4 :
Work petal shaping: ch 8, sl st back into ring to form one petal loop; repeat to create 5-6 loops then finish with sc around base (12)
Info :
Make a set of smaller petals for the underside of the large flower if you want a fuller layered look. Sew smaller petals offset under large petals for a 3D effect.
— Leaf Motif (Make 10–14, sage green and some cream) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
Change to sage green if not already. Row-style shaping (work in rows): ch1, turn, 1 sc in first 9 sts, 1 hdc in next 6 sts, 3 dc in center tip, then mirror decrease back along first side to create a pointed leaf (shape governed by stitch count; ends approx 36 sts)
Info :
Leaves are worked flat in rows to create a clean visible vein. Block leaves with a light spray to hold shape. Alternate colors by making some leaves in cream for contrast.
Round 5 :
Edge leaf with sc around the perimeter to firm shape and create a seam allowance for sewing (approx 36 sc)
Round 6 :
Optional: Add central vein by working a line of sl st down center back in contrasting cream (fasten off)
— Berry Ball (Make 8–12, blush pink) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Round 5 :
(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Info :
Stuff lightly before final decreases. Berry balls should be soft; do not overfill. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Make several sizes by stopping at Round 4 and finishing for slightly larger berries.
— S-shaped Band (Main Connecting Band, make 1 long strip in sage green) :
Info :
This long S-band provides the main flowing spine of the runner. It is worked in rows using dc and treble rows to make a slightly raised band. Length shown approx 70–85cm; make two halves and seam if necessary.
Round 1 (Row 1) :
Ch 61, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (60 sc)
Round 2 (Row 2) :
Ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn, hdc in each st across (60 hdc)
Round 3 :
Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, dc in next 5 sts, *sk 1, dc in next 10* repeat across to create subtle ridged columns (adjust final counts so edges sit even)
Round 4 :
Ch 2, turn, hdc across in back loops only to create neat ridge (60 hdc BLO)
Round 5 :
Ch 3, turn, dc across referencing a subtle curve by adding incs at designated points: *(dc in next 8, inc) x 6 across* finish even (66)
Info :
To form the S-curve, you will selectively add or omit increases in sections so the band bulges or narrows. Mark positions where each spiral or circle will join and shape accordingly by adding two or three increases over 3–5 stitches to create a gentle arc.
Round 6 :
Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st BLO to reinforce edges (66)
Round 7-18 :
Repeat Rows 3–6 alternating 4 rounds of texture then 2 rounds of BLO edgings until the band reaches desired width (work approx 12 rows total for a band ~2.5–3.5 cm wide)
Round 19 :
Finish by working sc around entire band edge with a neat picot or shell every 12 sts to provide anchor points for joining motifs (approx sc count depends on width)
Info :
Make the band in two halves if easier and seam with invisible whip stitch. Block the band so it holds the S-shape before sewing motifs to it.
— Mesh Connector Panels (Make multiple linking panels in cream) :
Round 1 :
Ch 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (24 sc)
Round 2 :
Ch 6, sk 2, sc in next, *ch 6, sk 2, sc in next* across to form 4-5 mesh loops depending on length (24 base)
Round 3 :
In each ch-6 loop: (sc, ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sc) to form diamond-shaped net (repeats variable)
Round 4 :
Work 1 sc between each mesh to stabilize (24)
Round 5-8 :
Repeat mesh expansion by chaining larger loops (ch 8, ch10) if you want a more open lattice, or keep ch6 for a tighter net. Block thoroughly to open meshes
Info :
These panels are the lacey fields you see between spirals and circles. Make enough to fill gaps between motifs — you will join them into longer panels when assembling the runner.
— Small Round Medallion (Make 2–3, blush pink) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Round 5 :
Ch 3, *sk 1, sl st* repeat around to form small scalloped rim, adjust count to create neat edge (18)
Info :
Use these medallions as flower centers, to fill small gaps or make tiny rosettes that add dimensional detail between larger motifs.
— Assembly & Join-as-you-go Technique :
Info :
Layout all motifs on a large blocking surface in the S-shaped composition shown in photos. Play with placement until you are happy; the design is modular—move spirals and lace circles to balance the composition. Use pins to anchor motifs to blocking mat.
Step 1 :
Begin by sewing the S-band onto the runner base: align one long edge of the band along the planned center axis. Using matching sage yarn and a tapestry needle, sew with small whip stitches through the band edge and into the backs of spirals where they overlap, taking care to hide stitches inside sc rims.
Step 2 :
Join lace circles to each other and to spirals using an invisible mattress stitch or sl st join. Position ch-spaces and openwork loops to align; using long tails left from finishing rounds, weave through adjacent motif edges and pull taut to a flat seam.
Info :
For a seamless look, always sew from the back and work through the same height of fabric on each motif (usually the sc rim). Use extra small backstitches where motifs meet frequently to prevent gaps.
Step 3 :
Sew flowers on top of overlapping motifs for a layered effect: place large flower over one spiral/lace joint and tack in place through the center only so petals lift slightly. Sew through petal bases, not through top rounds, to preserve 3D shape.
Step 4 :
Sew leaves around flower bases and along the S-band, arranging them so veins alternate direction. Attach berry balls in small clusters of 2–3 by sewing through their centers onto the mesh panels or at flower bases.
Info :
Use a small felt pad or additional backing if you plan to use heavy dishes on the runner; the runner is decorative and not intended for rough, wet use. A protective clear seal or occasional starching helps longevity.
Step 5 :
Weave in all tails by threading ends into a tapestry needle and running them back through 4–6 stitches inside motifs; trim close. Lightly steam or spray-block the entire runner to relax seams and set shape.
— Finishing Touches & Blocking :
Info :
Block on a flat surface using pins and a damp cloth or spray. Pin each motif perimeter to achieve intended layout. Allow to dry completely; apply a light starch spray if you want the runner to lie very flat and keep a crisp lace look.
Step :
Optional: Add a slip-stitched border around outer edge in cream for a tidy finish. Work 1 sc in each outer st, add picot every 8–12 sts for delicate scallop.
Info :
Check seams from both sides and make small reinforcing stitches where motifs meet in high-stress points (center joints). This ensures the runner holds together well when moved.
— Notes on Scaling & Variation :
Info :
To scale runner longer, add additional spiral discs and lace circles and extend the S-band length. To make a shorter runner, eliminate one or two spiral/lace pairs and reduce band length. Change color placement to emphasize different focal points.
Info :
If you prefer a stiffer doily, use heavier cotton thread (size 5 or 10) and smaller hook; rework motif rounds to maintain balance and check gauge before making the full number of motifs.
This floral table runner pattern blends airy lace and sculptural flowers into a charming, vintage-inspired centerpiece. Each motif is modular so you can rearrange or expand the design to fit any table — the spirals, lace circles, and layered flowers play together to create a lovely flowing composition. Blocking and gentle starch will add a crisp finish, while small berries and leaves bring delightful dimensional detail. 🧶🌸 Enjoy making this piece for your home or as a treasured handmade gift — it’s a joyful project to stitch and style. Happy crocheting! ✨