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Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern

Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern

This pattern produces a long floral table runner formed by five lacy cream doily circles joined in a line, embellished with large layered lavender daisies, smaller purple blossoms, and sculpted green leaves. The design combines traditional doily lace with bold 3D petals and coiled yellow centers for a modern-cottage look. The yarn is worked with tight, clean stitches to keep the runner flat and durable for use under a teapot or decorative trays. Each component is made separately and sewn or crocheted together, so you can rearrange flower placement to suit your table.

Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques used include working in the round, shell and picot edging, petal construction using elongated stitches, and joining motifs with slip stitch joins. This pattern is written step-by-step with clear Info notes, making assembly and finishing easy.

Why You'll Love This Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern

I love this runner because it combines old-fashioned lace doilies with playful 3D flowers—it's both elegant and whimsical. The lavender petals add a pop of color while the creamy circles keep the whole piece airy and light. The layered flowers and leaves give the runner a handcrafted, sculptural charm that looks stunning on wooden tables.

Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved making this runner because it lets me mix delicate lace with sculptural flowers for a look that's both vintage and modern. The modular construction makes it easy to experiment with placement and colors.

I recommend trying different colorways: swap the lavender for dusty pink or mint for a seasonal update or use neutral petals with bright centers for a contemporary twist. You can also change the number of doilies to create a shorter mantel runner or a longer table centerpiece—I often make a three-doily version for smaller tables.

For added customization, try substituting linen or bamboo yarn for a softer drape, or add tiny beads to centers for a subtle sparkle. I always enjoy tweaking the leaf size and angle to give each runner a unique, organic arrangement.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven joining; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Using stretchy or overly soft yarn without blocking may cause the doily circles to warp; block flat before assembly for a professional finish ✗ Crocheting petals too loosely will make them flop; use slightly smaller hook or tighten tension for structural petals ✗ Not counting chains and spaces on lace rounds leads to irregular edges; recount after each repeat to ensure consistent stitch geometry ✗ Joining motifs without pinning first can create twisted alignment; always pin doilies and flowers into position before sewing ✗ Failing to weave in long tails thoroughly may cause seams to loosen over time; weave through multiple stitches and knot discreetly ✗ Stuffing leaves or petals (if using) unevenly will make shapes bulge; if stuffing, use tiny amounts and shape evenly ✗ Adding embellishments or heavy items without reinforcement will pull the lace; reinforce with extra surface stitches where needed

Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern

Create a charming vintage-inspired table runner made of stacked crochet doilies, layered lavender daisies, and sculpted green leaves. This pattern uses cotton yarn for crisp stitch definition and features creamy doily circles framed with purple scallops and bright yellow flower centers. Perfect for decorating dining tables, sideboards, or as a centerpiece runner for tea time.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Lavender Daisy Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Mercerized cotton sport/worsted blend (approx worsted/light worsted, #3-4), 180-220g in cream (main doily color)
  • 02
    100-150g in lavender/purple (large and small petals)
  • 03
    30-40g in bright yellow (flower centers)
  • 04
    60-80g in leaf green (leaves and small details)
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-20g) in contrasting shades for optional embroidery or additional accent colors

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (suggested for crisp texture)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter petals and centers (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round beginnings and joining points
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking board, pins and spray bottle (or light steam iron) for flattening doilies
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: small stitch-holding pins for precise placement while sewing
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for extra-secure tiny centers (use sparingly)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Doily Circle (Make 5) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Work these early increase rounds tightly; this creates a firm center which improves the stability of later lacework. Use a stitch marker on the first stitch of each round.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 8 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 10 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

We will begin forming the lacy spokes now. Keep your tension even so the circular shape remains flat. If the doily begins to ruffle, check that you are not over-increasing in lace rounds.

Round 12 :

*ch2, sk 1, dc in next st* around (creates initial spacing) (48 spaces/chains)

Round 13 :

Into each ch2-sp: (dc, ch1, dc) to create small shells around (48 shells)

Round 14 :

*sk next shell, sc in space between shells, ch4, sc in next space* around (48 ch4 loops)

Info :

These ch4 loops will form the base for the round lace motif. Keep loops airy but not too large; adjust by working ch3 if your loops look oversized compared to the sample.

Round 15 :

In each ch4 loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) forming a fuller petal motif (48 petals)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st and in each petal top to even out the last round (approx 48 sc)

Round 17 :

*ch5, sl st in next 3 sc, ch2, sl st in next sc* around to create decorative arc chain (48 arcs)

Round 18 :

Working through arc chains: *(sc, ch3, sc) in each arc* around (48 small picot arches)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st around, working through both loops evenly to maintain flat circle (48 sc)

Round 20 :

(sc, ch2, sc) in every 3rd stitch to give an open scalloped ring (48 small scallops)

Round 21 :

*(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp; sl st to next sc* around to lock scallops (48)

Info :

At this point each doily should measure approximately 14-16 cm (5.5-6.25 inches) across depending on yarn and tension. Block each doily flat to correct any slight cupping or ruffling before moving on. Pin on blocking board to exact size and lightly steam or wet-block, then let dry.

Round 22 :

Join to final edging color (purple) with sl st; do not fasten off - prepare for scallop edging in purple

Round 23 :

With purple: *ch3, (3 dc) in same st, sl st in next sc* repeat around to create a delicate scallop border. Count scallops and make sure scallops line up at consistent intervals. Expected scallops: 16-18 depending on earlier lace geometry.

Info :

Make 5 of these doilies following the same tension and blocking process. Keep the purple border consistent so joining will align easily. Label each doily as A-E for easiest placement during assembly.

— Large Daisy Center (Make 5 centers for large flowers) :

Round 1 :

With yellow yarn: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

The center is coiled. If you want a tighter spiral, use a smaller hook by one size for rounds 1-4. Leave a 10-12 cm tail for sewing to petals.

Round 5 :

Working in BLO for ridged spiral: 1 sc in each st BLO (18)

Round 6 :

Sl st around to compress coil tightly; fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (do not stuff)

Info :

You may wrap a tiny bit of chain and glue inside to maintain coil if your yarn is soft; otherwise the coil sewn tightly to petals holds shape well.

— Large Daisy Petals (Make 5 flowers, 10 petals each) :

Info :

Each large flower has 10 sculpted petals. Petals are worked onto a small petal ring attached to center so you can arrange them evenly. Petal stitch structure uses elongated front-post trebles and slip-stitch shaping for a raised petal look.

Petal Base (Round 1) :

With lavender: ch10, sl st into small ring (or into center sc), repeat ch10 eight more times around to form 10 loops. Join with sl st. This establishes 10 petal starting loops.

Petal Work (Petal 1 - Repeat 10 times) :

Into each ch10 loop: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, tr, 3 dc, hdc, sc) fasten off at end of petal. Count: each petal uses 11 stitches plus turning chains shaped into petal. Repeat for petals 1-10.

Info :

Work each petal with consistent tension. Gently stretch and block each petal by pinning into a slightly convex shape on blocking mat and lightly spraying to set curvature. Blocking greatly enhances the sculpted effect.

Petal Ribbing (Optional finishing round) :

Using BLO around petal base: 1 sc in each st BLO across each petal base to define edges and help petals stand up (approx 10-12 sc per petal)

Assembly :

Center the yellow coiled center onto the petal ring and sew through center rounds using long yellow tail. Sew securely with small neat stitches around the center so coil is slightly raised above petals.

Info :

Make five large daisy flowers. Position them on doilies so larger flowers fall alternatingly along the runner; you can cluster two flowers on one doily or space them evenly by eye.

— Small Flower (Make 8-10) :

Round 1 :

With yellow: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

Switch to lavender: *ch3, 5 dc in same st, sl st in next sc* repeat around to create 6 small ruffled petals (6 petals)

Round 4 :

Sl st around base to tidy; fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

These small flowers are decorative fillers between large daisies. Make 8-10 of them, and place them in clusters of 2-4 near the large flowers for contrast.

— Leaves (Make 12-16) :

Leaf 1 - Foundation :

With green: ch11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last; turn to work on opposite side of chain and repeat symmetrical stitches back to base; sl st to join (approx 18 sts total)

Round 2 :

Working around leaf edge: *ch2, sc in edge, ch2, sl st* around to form small picot-edge for realistic leaf serration (approx 8-10 picots)

Round 3 :

Switch to BLO down center of leaf: with tapestry needle and contrasting thread (or working with green), surface-slip post stitches to create center vein. Use backstitch or surface slip st following center to give raised midrib.

Info :

Make leaves in two sizes by varying chain foundation (ch9 for small leaves, ch13 for larger accent leaves). Block slightly with steam to flatten and hold shape before attaching.

Leaf Count :

Make 12-16 leaves of mixed sizes to tuck under flowers and along the runner edge.

— Joining Doilies into Runner :

Info :

Lay out the 5 blocked doilies in desired order on a flat surface. Place large flowers and small flowers atop doilies to finalize placement before any joining. Pin pieces to hold position.

Joining Method A :

Using purple: position edge scallops of adjacent doilies so scallops align. With right sides facing up, join by slip stitching through outer loop of scallop on Doily A and corresponding stitch on Doily B. Make a slip-stitch every 6-8 stitches to create a secure but decorative join. Expected joins: 4 joins between 5 doilies.

Joining Method B (Sewn Option) :

With tapestry needle and matching purple yarn, whip stitch through scallop edges from top, making small invisible stitches. This is stronger and preferred if runner will receive heavier use.

Info :

When joining, leave about 1-2 cm gaps in join if you plan to tuck leaves or smaller flowers between motifs; otherwise sew close together for a seamless look.

— Decorative Bridge Chains and Accent Loops :

Round 1 :

With purple: join at the inner part of scallop between adjacent doilies with ch12 loops that arc across the seam. Sl st to anchor every 3 chs to create a braided look. Work across all seams for consistent decoration.

Round 2 :

Into each chain arc: *sc, ch3, sc* to create small arches that echo the doily lace. Fasten off and weave ends.

Info :

These decorative bridges serve both an aesthetic and functional purpose by helping to stabilize the runner. Use the same purple as the scallop border to keep a consistent color language.

— Final Scallop Edging Across Runner :

Round 1 :

Work a unified edge around the entire outer perimeter of the combined doilies: With purple, join at any outer scallop and *(ch3, 3 dc in next scallop base, sl st in next) repeat around all exposed outer scallops. Expected repeats: 60-80 depending on pattern size.

Round 2 :

*(sl st, ch4, sl st) around the top of each 3-dc scallop to create airy loops; fasten off*

Info :

If the runner edge still feels floppy, add a round of sc around the very edge in cream to visually tie the runner into the doily centers. This gives a two-tone finish that's very attractive.

— Attaching Flowers and Leaves :

Info :

Arrange large daisies on doilies where you want them. Typically, larger flowers are placed on Doilies 1, 3 and 5 and smaller daisies clustered around Doilies 2 and 4 for balance, but feel free to arrange to suit your table.

Step 1 :

Using long tails from flower centers, sew the yellow center through center rounds into the doily surface with even small stitches. Stitch around the coiled center twice for security.

Step 2 :

Sew petal bases to the doily fabric using ladder stitch or small whip stitches through the base stitches of each petal. Secure every petal at 2-3 points for firm attachment. Hide knot and tail on the back side of the runner.

Step 3 :

Arrange leaves under petal clusters, tucking leaf tips slightly under petals and sewing only at the leaf base into the runner. For a realistic look, angle leaves outward from flower centers.

Info :

To create a raised layered look, you can sew a small felt circle under the flower before attaching to the doily; this lifts the petals slightly and gives a shadowed look that photographs beautifully.

— Optional Surface Embroidery and Final Touches :

Step 1 :

Using green yarn and darning needle, add a few small surface stitches to suggest vines between flowers. Keep lines light and sparse.

Step 2 :

If desired, add tiny seed beads to flower centers using clear thread and needle for a subtle sparkle. Sew beads securely and knot multiple times.

Info :

Weave in all yarn tails and trim. Lightly press or steam once all attachments are completed. Re-block any petals that need reshaping with steam and pins. Your runner is ready for display.

— Alternative Techniques & Notes :

Info :

If you prefer the petals to be stiffer, you can lightly starch them after blocking. For machine-washable finish, use a washable fabric stiffener following manufacturer's instructions. If making a narrow runner for a small table reduce number of doilies to 3 and adjust flower counts accordingly.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin doilies A-E on a flat surface in desired order. Mark where the centers of the large flowers will sit (typically Doilies 1, 3, 5).
  • Join adjacent doilies at scalloped edges using slip-stitch joins in purple; pin and align scallops carefully before working to avoid twisting.
  • Sew large flower petals to doilies: secure base of each petal with small whip stitches into the doily fabric, 2-3 stitches per petal; then sew the yellow coil center on top.
  • Attach small flowers and leaves by tacking only at bases so edges remain free and dimensional; hide knots on undersides and weave in yarn tails neatly.
  • Add decorative bridge chains between doilies with purple chain arcs and small sc arches; these stabilize seams and add a lacy overload.
  • Weave in all loose ends and trim. Lightly steam or spray-block the entire runner on a blocking board to ensure a flat, even finish.
  • Optional: for extra durability sew a thin cotton or linen backing to the underside by hand to protect delicate doily stitches.
  • Final inspection: check all attachments and re-secure any petals or leaves that feel loose; press gently once more if needed.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Block each doily flat before assembly; this ensures accurate alignment and a professional finish
  • 💡Stuffing is not required for this project; instead rely on blocking and stitch tension to create shape for petals and leaves
  • 💡When sewing petals, use small, neat stitches at the base and avoid visible knots on the right side; hide tails under the petals
  • 💡Work petals with slightly smaller hook or tighter tension than doilies to keep petals sculpted and raised
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry along the runner
  • 💡When joining motifs with slip stitch, test tension on scrap first to ensure joins are not too tight and the runner still lies flat
  • 💡Keep a row counter for any long even rounds to avoid losing track of repeats in lace sections

This delicate floral runner brings cottage charm to any table with layered daisies and lacy cream doilies. The sculpted lavender petals and bright yellow centers pop against a soft wooden table, creating a centerpiece that feels both handcrafted and timeless. I love how the runner mixes vintage lace with bold dimensional flowers—it's perfect for tea with friends or to brighten everyday meals. 🧶🌸 Add your personal color palette to make it uniquely yours. Happy stitching! ✨

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

With five doilies joined as written, the finished runner will measure approximately 90-110 cm (35-43 inches) long and 18-20 cm (7-8 inches) wide depending on yarn/tension and how you space flowers and edges.

Can I make this with different yarn?

Yes. Use any 100% cotton or cotton-blend yarn for crisp lace. If you switch to a bulkier yarn, your runner will be larger and you may need to adjust hook size and number of stitches to maintain similar proportions.

Is blocking necessary?

Blocking is highly recommended for the doily circles and petals — it makes the lace open up, straightens edges, and ensures the runner lies flat for neat joining.

Can I machine wash this runner?

If you use washable cotton and avoid delicate embellishments, you may hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle inside a mesh bag. Re-block while damp. For delicate assembly or beads, hand washing is safest.

How many flowers and leaves should I make?

The pattern suggests 5 large daisies, 8-10 small flowers, and 12-16 leaves. You can reduce or increase quantities based on desired fullness and runner length.

Do I need to sew or can I crochet the motifs together?

Both methods work. Slip-stitch joining with matching yarn produces a neat decorative join; sewing with a tapestry needle yields a very secure, nearly invisible seam.

Can I change the color scheme?

Absolutely. Try peach petals with teal centers, or classic white and navy for a nautical version. The structure is forgiving for color swaps.

What tools help keep motifs aligned while joining?

Blocking boards, T-pins, and fabric pins are invaluable. Pin pieces in place and photograph your layout before joining to ensure consistent placement.