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Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern

Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern

This table runner features layered lily pad motifs in olive green, interspersed with cream circular filler motifs and cream-and-yellow daisy flowers. Each lily pad has purposeful openwork veins for a natural look, while the daisies are worked in rounds with puffed or layered petals for dimension. The motifs are joined with an airy join-as-you-go technique, then edged in a soft scalloped cream border for a cohesive finish.

Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is written with step-by-step rounds for every motif and an assembly section with join-as-you-go and sewn options. It uses common stitches (sc, hdc, dc, clusters, puff stitches) and is friendly to crocheters wanting to practice texture and motif joining.

Why You'll Love This Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern

I love how this runner combines sculptural lily pads with sweet daisies — it feels fresh and timeless. The texture created by the lily-pad veins and layered petals makes each section pop, and working the motifs separately lets you play with layout before you join. I also appreciate that this pattern is forgiving: you can easily add or remove motifs to fit your table length.

Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this runner. I often change the number of lily pads to fit different table sizes, or substitute a lighter sport-weight cotton with a smaller hook for a more delicate effect. Try using deeper forest greens for an autumnal look or pastels for spring.

I also enjoy swapping the cream for a soft grey or blush to alter the mood, and replacing sunflower yellow centers with terracotta for a richer contrast. You can add metallic thread through petal edges for a subtle sheen or work the border with a heavier weight yarn for a sturdier finish.

Don't be afraid to add appliques, bead accents in the daisy centers, or stitch small French knot seeds across the filler circles for extra texture — those little changes make each runner feel unique and personal.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round. ✗ Working with inconsistent tension creates motifs that don't sit flat; practice maintaining steady tension across motifs. ✗ Joining motifs without pinning first will result in a crooked layout; always arrange and pin motifs before permanent joining. ✗ Changing colors without securing tails neatly will make the back messy; carry or weave in ends as you go for a clean finish. ✗ Overstuffing or tugging motifs when blocking can distort their shape; gently steam or wet block for best results. ✗ Not counting stitches on increase rounds leads to mis-shaped motifs; recount after every increase round and correct immediately. ✗ Using an incorrect hook size will change finished size and drape; check gauge by making one full motif before committing.

Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern

A charming table runner composed of crocheted lily pads, daisies and small circular motifs in olive green, cream and sunflower yellow. The design features large textured lily-pad motifs, layered daisies with raised petals, and delicate cream-filled circles that lace the composition together. Finished with a soft scalloped cream border, this runner brings a botanical, cottage-core touch to any table.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Olive Green Cream Lily Pad Daisy Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4) or cotton blend, approx 350-450g in Olive Green (main lily pad color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approx 400-500g in Cream/Ivory (background circles and border)
  • 03
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), 40-80g in Sunflower/Golden Yellow (daisy centers)
  • 04
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), 20-40g in Moss or darker green (small leaf accents and color variation)
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-20g each) of contrasting greens or neutrals for extra filler circles or accents

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (adjust for your tension)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) hook for denser motif rounds (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle/tapestry needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Blocking mats and pins for flattening motifs
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8) to mark round starts
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Optional: small amount of fabric stiffener or starch for rigid motifs
  • 08
    Optional: washable fabric glue for securing particularly slippery yarn tails during assembly
  • 09
    Tape measure or ruler to check motif size and runner length

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

Make one large lily pad motif and block to check gauge. Gauge is not strict for this decorative runner, but a large lily pad should measure approximately 17-18 cm (6.5-7") across when worked in worsted cotton with a 3.5mm hook. Adjust hook size to match your desired size and drape. Work tightly enough so that motifs hold shape but not so tight that texture is lost.

Info :

Throughout this pattern each motif begins with a magic ring unless otherwise noted. Use stitch markers at the start of each round. The runner in the photo is made with repeating sets of large lily pads, medium pads, small filler rounds and daisies; the pattern below gives full instructions for each motif type plus joining and border rounds.

— Large Lily Pad (Make 4-5 depending on length) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

At this point the motif is a flat circle. Switch to FLO (front loops only) for one round if you want a slight ridge to help the veins read later. Keep tension even to preserve a flat surface.

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 12 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 13-14 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

We will now form the signature wedge and veins of the lily pad by creating 6 wedge spaces around the edge and working special cluster/elongated stitch groupings to form lobes. Mark the center top of the motif (this will be used to orient the wedge when assembling the runner).

Round 15 :

*5 sc, ch6, skip next 6 sts* repeat from * to * 6 times. (30 sc + 6 ch-6 spaces)

Info :

The ch-6 spaces create 6 evenly spaced wedge openings. Count base scs; stitch count shown excludes ch spaces. If your ch spaces are tight, use ch8 for more dramatic wedge gaps.

Round 16 :

Join with sl st into first sc. Work into each sc between ch-spaces as follows: (sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) in each sc group (30 groups worked across the 30 sc positions) to create a slightly raised outer ring. (30 clusters/150 total stitches worked in cluster pattern)

Round 17 :

Into each previously made ch-6 sp work: sl st, ch3 (counts as dc), 3 dc, ch3, sl st into same ch-6 sp to form a small arch bridging the gap—do this into each of the 6 ch-6 spaces creating 6 arches. Continue with 1 sc in each sc between arches to maintain shape. (30 sc + 6 small arches)

Round 18 :

Working toward creating veins: *work 1 sc in next 4 sts, fpdc around next dc (front post double crochet) three times to create a raised post cluster, 1 sc in following 6 sts* repeat from * to * 6 times. (60 sc base count plus 18 fpdc posts counted within these stitches)

Info :

Front post stitches create subtle ridges that read as veins on the lily pad. Keep the posts evenly spaced; if you find the posts pulling, block the motif gently after finishing to coax the shape flat.

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 20 :

Work an eyelet/vein round: *ch3, skip 2, sc in next 3 sts, ch3, skip 2* repeat 6 times creating evenly spaced eyelets forming vein slits. (60 sc worked overall with 12 ch-3 eyelets)

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st working carefully around eyelets; where needed 2 sc in a st to maintain evenness (60)

Round 22 :

Edge shaping round: (2 sc, dec) x 20 to slightly scallop and stabilize the edge (40)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Round 24 :

Optional decorative round — BLO: 1 sc in each st BLO (40)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Block the lily pad flat, stretching the wedge slightly if you want a curved lily shape. Make 4-5 large lily pads for a runner of standard length; adjust count for longer or shorter tables.

— Medium Lily Pad (Make 4-6) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 9 :

Form 6 small ch-4 wedge spaces around the edge: *4 sc, ch4, skip 3* repeat. (24 sc + 6 ch-4 spaces)

Round 10 :

Into each ch-4 space work (sl st, ch3, 2 dc, ch3, sl st) to form arches. In remaining sc spaces work 1 sc. (24 sc + 6 arches)

Round 11 :

1 sc each st around to stabilize (30)

Round 12 :

Edge round: (2 sc, dec) x 10 (20)

Info :

Make 4-6 medium pads to nestle between large pads. Slight size variation gives a natural clustered look.

— Small Round Filler Motif (Make many) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 4 :

*sc in next st, ch3, sc in next* repeat around to create 6 ch-3 picots (12 sc + 6 ch-3 spaces)

Round 5 :

Work into ch-3 spaces: (sl st, ch3, 3 dc, ch3, sl st) to make petite rosettes; sc in sc spaces between. Result reads as a small lacy disk. (12 sc + 6 rosettes)

Info :

These small circles are economical and quick — make 12-18 of these to lace between pads. Use cream for most, and a few in sage or olive for variety.

— Daisy Flower (Make 6-8 full daisies) :

Center Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with Sunflower Yellow (6)

Center Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Center Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

Fasten yellow center off and weave tail to the back, or carry into petal rounds if you prefer no join. The yellow centers in the photo are slightly raised; you can add an extra puffy round by working a round of pb puff stitches into the center before adding petals.

Petals Round 1 :

Join Cream to any st on the center, *ch2, (2 dc, ch2, sl st) into same st to make a petal base, skip next st, sl st into next* repeat around to form 6 petals. (12 petal bases made around 12 center sts)

Petals Round 2 :

Into each petal base work: (sl st, ch1, 5 dc, ch1, sl st) to puff up the petal and give a rounded appearance. Repeat around to make 6 raised petals. (6 petals)

Info :

If you prefer a layered look, after petals are made add a second petal round offset between petals with smaller 3-dc petals. Fasten off and weave ends to the back. Make 6-8 daisies and 3-4 small daisies (use a smaller center and 5 petals) for added interest.

— Small Daisy Accent (Make 3-4) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring Sunflower Yellow (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

Join Cream: *(ch2, 3 dc, ch2, sl st) in same st, sl st in next* repeat to make 6 small petals. (6 petals)

Info :

These tiny daisies are great tucked midway between lily pads or used as centers in cream circles for diversity.

— Decorative Leaf Accent (Make pairs) :

Round 1 :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc next, sc next, sl st to base to form one side of leaf; repeat on other side back along chain to tip; sl st to join. (shaped leaf approx 10 sts)

Info :

Work 10-12 small leaves in moss green; sew or tack these into clusters near daisies for a natural composition.

— Join-As-You-Go Layout & Joining Rounds :

Info :

Before permanently joining, arrange motifs on a flat surface in the order you want. The runner pictured alternates large lily pad, cluster of small circles and daisies, medium pads and then repeats. Pin motifs with T-pins or sewing pins. Decide whether you prefer sewn joins for durability or join-as-you-go (JAYG) slip stitch joins for a cleaner crocheted seam.

Joining Round 1 :

With Cream yarn and right side of motifs facing you, align a small circle to the edge of a lily pad so 3-4 stitches overlap. Join with sl st through both motif edges: *sl st in motif A edge, sl st in motif B edge* across the overlapping area to attach. Repeat for each adjoining spot. (stitch count varies by join area)

Joining Round 2 :

To strengthen joins, work a round of sc across the seam: working through both loops of both motifs where joined, sc through each joining stitch around the seam line. This tidies edges and gives a subtle raised ridge. (count depends on seam length)

Info :

Where 3 motifs meet (T-junction), use a small slip stitch triangle to reinforce: join in the central gap and work 6 sc in a small circle then fasten off — this fills the gap and stabilizes the layout.

Joining Round 3 :

For an all-crochet continuous seam around motif clusters: once the bulk of joins are made, work a single crochet join across the outer edges of the assembled row, sc in each outer stitch catching the edges of two motifs at once to unify the runner. (outer stitch count equals perimeter stitches of runner)

Info :

If you prefer a sewn join, use tapestry needle and matching thread to whip stitch motifs together following the same overlapping points. Sew through the back loops of both motifs for a flatter seam, or through both loops for a thicker join.

— Outer Scalloped Border (Work after all motifs joined) :

Round 1 :

With Cream yarn, join anywhere on the outer edge and work 1 sc in each outer edge stitch around, working evenly to maintain shape. (perimeter stitch count varies; aim for even coverage)

Round 2 :

*(3 sc, ch3, 3 sc) in next st for a large scallop, skip 4 sts, sc in next 3 sts* repeat around to create scallops. Adjust skip count to smooth corners. (scallop pattern repeated evenly around)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each stitch around to tidy scallops and even the edge. (perimeter count)

Round 4 :

Optional picot edging: *sc, ch3, sl st in top of sc (picot), skip 1* repeat around for delicate points. Fasten off and weave in ends. (perimeter count)

Info :

Blocking: Once border is complete, wet-block entire runner or lightly steam-block. Pin scallops out and allow to fully dry; this evens shape and allows lily pad veins to relax flat. If you want a stiffer runner, apply a light fabric stiffener following product instructions after blocking.

— Alternative Joining: Sewn Invisible Join Method :

Info :

To sew an invisible join, place motifs RS together and use a blunt tapestry needle with matching yarn. Whip stitch just under the outer loops (through the back loops) of each motif, pulling snug but not tight. This method produces nearly invisible joins and is excellent for heirloom cotton yarns.

— Finishing & Assembly Tips :

Info :

Weave all tails neatly into the back of motifs. Where decorative small daisies are layered on top of lily pads, attach them with a few catch stitches through the center only; this secures them but lets the petals arch up for dimension. Add a few tiny leaves around daisies for a natural cluster. Use blocking to flatten seams and shape wedges.

Info :

Adjust runner length by adding or subtracting large lily pad motifs and corresponding filler motifs. A standard table runner in the image is approximately 30-36 inches long; add or remove groupings to reach your desired length.

Info :

Care: hand wash or machine wash on gentle with mild detergent and lay flat to dry to keep cotton yarn looking its best.

Assembly Instructions

  • Arrange motifs flat in your chosen layout first. For the pictured runner alternate large lily pads with clusters of medium pads, small filler rounds and daisies. Pin motifs before joining to check balance and spacing.
  • Join adjacent motifs using join-as-you-go slip stitch method: align edges, then sl st through both motif edges where they overlap. Reinforce seams with a round of sc worked through both motif layers for a tidy finish.
  • At three-way junctions (where three motifs meet), add a small filling circle of 6 sc in a magic ring to fill gaps and provide stability. Sew this small filler to each adjoining motif.
  • Sew daisies to lily pads by placing daisy centers over chosen lily pad spot. Use a few securing stitches through the daisy center only, tacking through the lily pad beneath. This lets petals remain dimensional.
  • Once all motifs are joined, work the outer scalloped border in cream. Pin the outer edge into scallops and work around evenly — adjust stitch counts in scallop repeats to keep the scallops even.
  • Block the entire runner: gently wet or steam block and pin each scallop and wedge into place. Allow to dry fully. Optionally apply a light fabric stiffener for a more table-mat-like structure.
  • Weave in all tails on the wrong side; for extra security whip stitch any loose-seeming seams from the back.
  • If desired, add small embroidered stitches or French knots in sunflower yellow to the daisy centers for extra texture and security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuffing is not required for this flat runner; however, block motifs flat after finishing to set shape and veins.
  • 💡When joining motifs, always pin and visually inspect layout prior to permanent joining to avoid asymmetry.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension across motifs; switching hook sizes or tension between motifs will make joins puckery or loose.
  • 💡For durable joins, work a second round of single crochet through the seams of joined motifs to stabilize the runner.
  • 💡If a seam looks bulky, sew through the back loops only of each motif to create flatter joins.
  • 💡Keep a small bowl or envelope for all tiny motifs (daisies & small circles) and join them as you go to prevent loss.
  • 💡Test one complete motif as a sample before committing to full runner to verify size and yarn consumption.

This lily-pad-and-daisy table runner brings garden charm inside with soft layers and timeless textures. Each motif is a little piece of botanical art waiting to be arranged and joined. Enjoy the meditative rhythm of making circles, petals, veins and scallops come together. 🧶🌼 Display it on a dining or console table — it makes a beautiful handmade gift or centerpiece. Happy crocheting and enjoy the floral vibes! 🌿✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted cotton and a 3.5mm hook the runner pictured measures approximately 30-36 inches long and about 9-11 inches wide. You can lengthen or shorten by adding or removing motifs.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Switching yarn weights will change the finished size and drape. If using lighter yarn, reduce hook size slightly and make more motifs; for bulkier yarn increase hook and expect larger motifs.

Should I block motifs before joining?

I recommend lightly blocking larger motifs to flatten and set the lily-pad veins, though small filler rounds can be joined unblocked and blocked as a whole after assembly.

Do I need to sew or can I use join-as-you-go?

Both methods work. Join-as-you-go slip stitching gives a crocheted look with fewer ends; sewing (invisible whip stitch) provides nearly invisible, durable joins.

How many motifs do I need for a standard runner?

For the pictured runner plan for about 4 large lily pads, 4-6 medium pads, 12-18 small filler rounds and 6-8 daisies, but you can add or subtract to fit your table.

How should I care for the finished runner?

Hand wash or machine wash on gentle with mild detergent and reshape flat to dry. Avoid high heat when ironing; re-block if necessary to restore scallops.

Can this be made using acrylic yarn?

Yes — acrylic will work and be more durable for table use but may not block as neatly as cotton. Consider using a cotton blend for best drape and blocking results.

How do I secure the daisies so they don't shift?

Sew daisies through their centers using matching yarn with a few secure stitches to the lily pad base. Optionally add a tiny dab of fabric glue on the underside for extra hold.